What issues did you find while installing a new garbage disposal switch? Let us know in the comments below and if you have any questions, ask them below and we'll answer them for you.
So, im wanting to add a GFCI near my sink. This is an older home. The pannel has two switches and one outlet. There are 3 seperate romex cables coming into box. The outlet has its own breaker switch, and the switches were connected to a different breaker switch. The left switch controled the garbage disposal, and the right switch controled lights. There is romex that is connected to the light switch using a red wire and a black wire. There is also a jumper wire that is connected to the same screw that the red wire is in, and is connected to the garbage disposol switch giving that switch power. Now, all the neutral wires were connected to the outlet. They were not pig tailed, the outlet romex neutral was wrapped around the screw, and the other two neutrals were back wired on the outlet. My question is; is where would the light and garbage disposal neutrals go when i utilize a GFCI outlet instead of a regular outlet. Thanks Man!
Do the dishwasher and disposal need to be on GFCI now? And GFCI outlets can't be split. Would you need to install 2 GFCI receptacles side by side now or is there another trick?
Shown before, but again at 18:00, the usual tile jerks left a lousy opening to the box, covering the lower screws entirely. Our kitchen was done this way, and every counter outlet box was crooked (lazy electricians) before the tiling, doubling the finagling needed to align and properly set the receptacles. Of course the electricians used a lot of non-code drywall screws to get around the sloppy fit and installs as well. They also tied the over-stovetop microwave outlet in the cupboard (fine) to the bathroom outlet circuit (not allowed). I fudged and used an AFI/GFI receptacle in the bath, protecting the microwave outlet as well; not code but safe.
The easiest way to do this is inside the electric panel, change the 2 breakers to be GFCI, then if the gfci ever blows you don't have to get way down on your knees and clean out the sink storage before you can reach the gfci outlet
@@jeffostroff Thanks This condo unit has a double pole breaker. The red is connected to the bottom outlet for the dishwasher and the black is on top for the disposal and the run to a switch above the cabinet. The tenant is purchasing a new dishwasher but the installer won't install it without the GFCI. I couldn't figure out how to get everything working other than running new lines but the owner didn't wanna. Your suggestion is the best way around this issue.
I have a garbage disposal that is not on its own circuit. The dishwasher is on its own circuit. Would I need to run a whole new circuit to the garbage disposal to be on its own circuit or could I just run it to the dishwasher circuit? Or would I have to fish a new circuit from my breaker box to the kitchen? Just trying to do this as safe and as easy as possible. Thanks
Really depends on your city inspectors if you do a permit. If you can wire it to a new breaker in the control panel, I would do it. IF it's not feasible, then many homes are wired with the garbage disposal and dishwasher on the same outlet box, both white wires tied together, snip the tab between the 2 outlets on the line voltage side, so that each is powered by its own outlet.
Jeff I think I have the same issue. My outlet to my dish washer and garbage disposal is powered by a red wire from the same Romex that goes to my gfci outlet next to my disposal switch....my gfci trips if I try using my disposal
One way to tell is to open up the outlet and see what's going on inside the outlet Box. Usually inside the Breaker BoxYou will see the garbage disposal and the dishwasher tied together together through a tandem pair of pair of breakers
I’ve an older home, 22 years, not all that old but still. Builder has the disposer and DW on the same circuit. 20a. Must have been code then and it will remain that way. We removed the DW 22 years ago and just reinstalled a new one this week.
@@jeffostroff I can't speak for code at the time but my house built/inspected 1968 has the DW and disposal on 1 circut, dedicated Double Pole Breaker ea 15 amp and your reply scared me. He may have missed the Double Pole aspect or not thought relative if in fact exists. As far as I can find (research) thats fine, serves the purpose only shuts both appliances down if only one misbehaves. Maybe not what I'd do if new build but haven't found anything saying it's bad, or had any problems all this time.
I have similar setup but it is ungrounded, an old house. Can I use the same method even if there are no ground wires present? The GFCI I had installed upline (closer to the panel) was tripping when turning on the disposal and I think what you are showing is the fix because of the existing shared neutrals on the two circuits. Just want to make sure this is the same fix for ungrounded split switch / outlet.
The electric code allows us to put a GFCI outlet on a two wire system but you have to put a sticker on it that says ungrounded, so you're not getting a grounded outlet. I'm not sure if it makes sense to put one on a garbage disposal or no, although modern code requires it. What you need to do is get a ground line to your outlet box somehow if you can get the fuse panel get inside of it and run a ground wire to that outlet. That's not too much trouble hopefully. Some older houses however already have the metal conduits that go between the outlets and fuse panel as ground so you could use a meter to check the continuity between the metal box and the fuse panel and if you have continuity there then you already have ground going to it so all you need is a ground wire to screw onto the back of the outlet box and there you go you have an instant ground inside your outlet box.
My dual switch has 4 black wire on 4 brass screws. 1 is for garbage disposal other is for 3 outlets. I want to replace dual switch but new one has 2 black 2 brass screws. Is the wiring the same?
Actually, electricians prefer to tie the necessary wires together in the box and run one black wire to the outlet, run one white wire tot he outlet, and one ground wire to the outlet. You would also run the the black dishwasher power wire to the non-switched receptacle on the dual receptacle.
I understand that split recepticals aren"t allowed anymore in the kitchen. I'm talking in my case I have hardwired dishwasher and garbage disposal which I want to convert to plug in. Do you have a video that shows how to switch gfci outlets (for the garbage disposal) or just explain how to wire it? Do they have to be arc fault gfci's? They both have 14-2 wiring. Thank you!
You don't have to use a metal box, but if your older wiring is in a metal conduit, then I would use the metal box for better connections. I have not made videos on the GFCI yet
I am replacing a regular outlet with a GFCI one in the kitchen. The old outlet had one black wire and two white with one of the wires going to the garbage disposal. Just like in your video. I decided to use the good white cable and split that cable so that it goes to the outlet and garbage disposal which I think was how it worked before. Now everything works. My question is this OK
We do electricians always say back stabbing isn’t reliable? Every receptacle I have removed with backstabbing has been almost impossible to remove. Aren’t those waygo(sp?) nuts the same concept?
You got lucky. About 50% of the receptacles I pull out, at least one wire is broken, or breaks when I pull it out. Backstabbing has smaller area of contact tot he wire from the clip inside the back where you stab it. Much more coverage wrapping a wire around the screw. Also, they remove too much insulation, now some of the wire is exposed outside the bak of the receptacle.
The reason why backstab wiring is difficult to remove is because the spring loaded contact is digging into the wire when pulling. Wago's and push ins are similar in concept, but provide more surface area contact. They have also been engineered and tested to be at least as good as properly used wire nuts and the standard ones will accept 12 gauge wire.
Also note, clockwise does not mean the wire will bend in the same direction in either side of the receptacle. I just replaced a bunch of old outlets and the previous owner had all the wiring turned down 😖 I didn’t bother changing it back because they didn’t leave much wire so I just squeezed the wires together like he did in the video.
I’ve a question, if you don’t turn on the disposal, how would the sink water drain? You know there’s only dirty water sometimes and you don’t hope the noise
I have this problem with a dishwasher/garbage disposal that is hardwired into JBox and then GD is on dual GFI receptacle box. Dishwasher trips GFI, Electrician was too lazy to put a new plug on DW
Thanks for sharing We just did a kitchen remodel last week and we have the dishwasher and garbage disposal each on their own circuit and their own outlet, and each outlet is ground faulted. It might be an inconvenience to you if the whole outlet shuts down with the garbage disposal when the dishwasher trips it, but it is not that bad. If you look in the fuse box, typically your dishwasher breaker and garbage disposal breaker will be connected together.
I have one 14-2 or 10-2, I'm not sure, cable in from the panel. One 14-2 cable to the outlet under the sink. One red conductor from the panel to the wall switch. One red conductor to outlet under the sink. The original, non GFCI outlet on the counter top worked fine as did the garbage disposal switch. When I upgraded to GFCI outlet on counter top, the switch trips the GFCI. I don't have three white wires in the 2 gang box. I have 2 black, 2 neutral and one red as well as the ground. At the panel, there are two breakers. Both 15 amp single pole. They are independent. I have to kill both in order to safely work. I think the red conductor is on its own circuit. I pigtailed the ground from the line 14-2, to the new switch and the GFCI outlet. No other pigtails exist. I wired everything and closed up. Now, when I plug my outlet tester to the always hot outlet under the sink, it tests correct. Same for the switched outlet. The wall switch will turn the tester on and off. However, if I put a load on the switched outlet, such as the disposal or a lamp, the GFCI trips. Why?
So the power for the outlet you're doing right now is coming from an adjacent outlet right? Then you run Romex wire if you don't have it from the panel so you can wire the switch and garbage disposal is that right? All I have is one black wire and one white wire no romex wire at all so I need that before I can do what you're doing on the video correct? Also the two outlets in my kitchen are completely separate should I wire them like yours or keep them separate on their own breakers?
I'm a little confused by this. You mentioned shared neutral as if this is a MWBC but there's no red and black wire from double pole breaker. If it's a switched receptacle on the same circuit you'd need a 12/3 or 14/3 or at least a white wire used as a hot wire and I don't see that either. What gives?
If you don't have a dishwasher outlet to connect garbage disposal neutral too. Then what? My gfci trips cause the neutral for disposal is pigtailed to it.
Not sure why you would disconnect the white wire as it is needed. One way or another you'll have to find the white common wire that serves the disposal circuit and run it to the disposal.
10:40 I'm no expert but I don't think 2 circuits can share 1 neutral because "the neutrals all connect to the same bar". To share 1 neutral the 2 circuits must be different phases which is missing info in the video. Kind of important imo since when on the same phase that single neutral could carry twice its allowed load and over heat without a breaker tripping. Very confused how this video has 50+k views and I don't see this pointed out. Hoping there aren't a bunch of houses currently wired this way.
Are you sure about this? Residential electric service is not 2 phase it's split single phase, and each leg shares the same neutral. All 120V circuits would be running through that single neutral. Can you explain further?
Mr G - It's a split single phase in which the 240 volts from the transformer are split in the middle by the neutral (grounded conductor) 120 volts to L1 and 120 volts to L2 on the main panel. When L1 is at peak + voltage, L2 is at peak - voltage and the current is flowing in opposite directions. With 2 circuits, the one with the lower current demand is subtracted from the other and the remainder is returned on the shared neutral wire. For example, if one circuit is using 10 amps and the other is using 4 amps, then you'll have 6 amps on the neutral. If they are consuming the same, you'll have 0 amps on the neutral. The current will flow back and forth on the hot wires because they are on opposite poles (phases on sine wave). If both circuits are wired on L1 or on L2, the return current will be added and could result in an over current situation on the neutral wire and will not trip the circuit breaker. Dangerous situation. I have the same concern as Water Bug.
@@mr.g937 Each leg shares the same neutral only in a multiwire branch circuit. A technique used to save time and wire and has no functional advantage. Normally each circuit carries its own neutral wire.
The GFCI counter outlet must be on a dedicated ckt, by itself or with one other outlet... The garbage disposal must also be on a dedicated 15 amp circuit by itself, or on a 20 amp dedicated circuit shared with the dishwasher... The dishwasher must be GFCI protected, but for the garbage disposal it's only an option... The drawing you have is scary...putting two different circuits in one box or on one device is a recipe for disaster...involving the potential for 220 volts in a box... The breakers for these circuits must share the same phase to ensure 110 volts in the box...
this was the original design of the electric panel, where they used combined neutrals. The GFCI counter can have more than one outlet in the line. The NEC rule is that they want 2 counter circuits
Didn't you have enough room in the box to utilize pigtails instead of putting two wires under one screw.....? That hole in the wall looked big enough to put a safe inside of it. I'm sure that two more wires and two more wago lever- nuts wouldn't have caused inspector gadget to fail you....
