Can we clone your dad and place him in every major metropolitan area in the US? It would force every other contractor to raise their game considerably. Guy is amazing.
I've seen contractors take a jigsaw to the back of the sink base cabinet and randomly cut out a huge hole because they didn't want to spend 5 minutes drilling holes for the pipes. They definitely couldn't get away with that bs if they had better standards to compare to.
Lot of good contractors in any area. I think the issue is their advertising. Not to mention if they are good they are gonna be busy all the time. I think the hacks in the contractor world are people who get too much work too fast and start cutting corners to get more done. Its a shame. I’ve ripped out a lot of bad work in my days. Best you can do is research or ask people in your neighborhood who they use and if they are good. Good contractors are definitely a dying breed. I think my generation is gonna change that though. (Millennials) cause it seems like the past generations that always do the whole “it’ll be fine” method.
To be fair, good contractors absolutely exist, in every city. The problem often comes from cost vs expectations. The customers who routinely complain about shotty service are often the same customers who will hire as cheap as they can, and try to save a penny wherever possible. While there is nothing wrong with being on a budget, you need to budget your expectations in those instances as well.
@@kevinr3263 Spot on. Customers who can’t trust you do do the job that they hired you for are usually just control freaks, who have to have input on everything.
Because you guys are my favorite home improvement guys ever, I’m gonna throw in a tip to you guys for finding centers. It’s a math trick. So I’ll go through some examples so you can see the visual on what is happening. Since half of a fraction is the same as doubling the Denominator, half of 1/2 is 1/4. Half of 3/4 is 3/8. Half of 7/8 is 7/16. Etc. If you are working with an EVEN NUMBER. It’s still pretty easy. Half of 64 1/4 is 32 1/8. Half of 132 3/4 is 66 3/8. Half of 44 5/16 is 22 5/32. So far so good, and you can do these in your head if you have some confidence with things. What happens when things go ODD. Well, there is a trick. Instead of using the odd numbered dimension, you convert the dimension to an EVEN numbered dimension PLUS it’s improper fraction. Example. 33 1/4 inches is the exact same as 32 5/4 inches. then using the fraction trick. Half of that is 16 5/8 inches. (16 is half of 32, 5/8 is half of 5/4). Example. 67 3/4 is the same as 66 7/4 inches. Half is 33 7/8. Example. 129 1/2 is the same as 128 3/2 inches. Half is 64 3/4. One more thing. On your tape measure always look backwards at the previous even inch marking. If the measurement lands on a quarter, eighth, or half, count those increments forward from that even number. Example. 128 plus 2/2 plus 1/2 to get to tour measurements. All you are doing is adding a 2 to the top number of the faction. 128 and 3/2. Like my last example. Figuring the half is just half of the whole number plus half the fraction. Practice a little bit and you will become a master in no time. Thanks for a great channel.
Amazing Mark! Thanks for sharing that and that’s knowledge that everyone can benefit from! Reminds me (Jordan) when I learned that ‘percent’ means “for each hundred” and all of a sudden 16 percent of 400 became easy! 16 for each 100, 4 hundreds. 16x4=64!
@@johnjones4825 You will always end up at fractions of a milimeter. One milimeter is roughly 1/32". So, as long as you have to divide in half, you can't win by moving to metric.
When I cut all the holes in the back of the cabinets I do all my measurements on a piece of cardboard first, cut that out make sure its right with the wall then I just use that as a template and draw all the holes on the cabinet.
I usually do this, especially when the wall behind the cabinet is in rough shape. But when the wall is as nicely finished as it is in this job I would consider cutting a square or rectangular opening in the back of the cabinet to allow the access to the utilities and land the covers and escutcheons right on the drywall as God intended.
I'm doing a kitchen reno and tripped upon a great product you may wish to try. It is called EZ-Level. They are metal feet system designed for base cabinets. They work great. All corners adjustable from the front and no need for wood shims that can shrink and move over time. Well worth the little extra money. They are designed to support the added weight of a stone countertop which crush soft wood shims.
I personally hang my uppers before my lowers. And, I do that for two reasons. First, that way I'm not physically leaning over my lowers to hang the uppers. That is a killer on the back and arms. Second, I don't want the uppers falling on my lowers if I slip while holding them awkwardly over the lowers. But, that is just my personal preference. Otherwise, looks great fellas!
Same. I understand it’s a preference thing, but I’m also short and female. I use a cargo bar that ratchets to help me install uppers when doing it alone.
8:20 - Just a tip on 240V range receptacles: I always orient them sideways rather than vertical so that the cord won't be pressed against the floor, but rather emerge from the plug to the side. It makes it a lot easier to plug in and slide under the range. All you need to do is remove the mud ring, turn it 90 degrees, then re-attach to the box.
If you just take the handles off the shut-offs, the trim rings will cover the hole you just drilled without a problem. Standard ones, not oversized either. It's also much easier to install uppers uppers first.
EZ- Levelers will blow your mind in how easy it is to install cabinets, I attest it is worth the money spent up front. I also use a ratcheting truck load bar to install my uppers, it is that extra hand you always need and it never asks for a smoke break.
@David Alderson. I was going to add this tip, but I see you already did it. I'm a woman and a DIYer. I've installed 4 kitchens and each time my stone countertop installers comment on the fact that they never have to add any shims under the countertops because the cabinets are perfectly level. They really are worth every cent. Plus, I like the fact that my cabinets are resting on a metal foot and not a wood shim.
As a full time cabinet installer, many times the cabinets get delivered right into the home or office as close to the installation location as possible, so there isn't the luxury of having enough space to get the lowers out of the way for setting upper first. Occasionally you can have them placed in an adjacent room, but then you have to move them twice. More efficient to just carry them from the truck to the spot they go, and then work off of that. I'll get the lowers roughly placed where they go, then using my fastcap 3rd hand cabinet jacks to set the uppers. Then come back and set the lowers. With minimal help, you should be able to set a kitchen in 1-3 days, including handles, crown, shoe moulding Agree with all your methods, besides using wood shims. Composite snap off shims are more expensive but will never rot or compact over time.
Whenever I'm doing kitchens I always put a panel next to the fridge. I usually order a 30" deep panel. I pull the 24 " cabinet over the fridge. Out to the edge of the panel. This way the fridge has a built in look. I'm not a fan in seeing the fridge side. Thought of passing something along. I use those Jorgensen clamps and still use them. I do have the other face frame clamps. Fortunate I didn't buy them. A customer bought them for me when I did there kitchen. Great job fitting the face frames together. So many jobs I go to. The cabinets look like a blind man put them in. Thanks for your video's. You guys are my favorites.
Nice video…..I’m a contractor and do a lot of cabinets. I typically fix a piece of 1x2 to the top of uppers to fasten crown to. I’m interested to know how you guys do it? Been doing this for 20 years and still pick up great tips from pros like you guys. Thank you.
When you’re cutting in with a brush you should back roll with a 4” weinnie roller to make sure the texture matches the rest of the wall. If you don’t your cut in area will be smooth and noticeable.
Also Make sure you paint the main part of the wall before the edge paint dries. If you edge the whole room then start the walls the couple of inches that you overlap the edge paint will have a different sheen. It can be really noticeable.
@@northernlightsrenovations1710 I prefer a 6 in with the hard plastic end. Keep a wet rag to keep excess paint off of it and that will allow you to paint right up to the wall with your trim.
If that is the technical term for those things, I am happy. I will definitely be calling them that from now on though. My biggest problem with them is the tip though..... I mean uh. Yeah, but rolling close that rounded edge always hits the wall and makes smears. What is your trick for that?
to my personal preference that white color was 1 000000000% greater then the 2nd color. for me that color is to weird, its not yellow, its not white...
Cabinet measuring tips are great! I don’t think you realize how intelligent you really are, but you do a great job of communicating/teaching what you know.
Maaaaan, I'm up to my eyeballs in doing most of the things I've watched in your videos. Making new door casings, Cabinets, etc. I just discovered your channel about a week ago but I wish I would've found you sooner. I'm finishing the kitchen cabinets but I suuuure could've used these tips sooner. 2 thumbs up to the Stud Pack.
Back when I was a flooring installer I'd often be working in a house when the cabinet installers were there. About 1/2 of them would install the uppers first. Their reasoning was if they had the layout figured out correctly it was easier to install the uppers without the base cabinets in the way. They didn't have to reach & lift over the bases, easier on the back, and less chance of damaging anything.
Well, I guess since your husband‘s been doing it for 30 years, that’s the right way. I’ve been doing it for 30+ years and I’ve almost always install bases first. I’ve been screwed a couple times by starting with uppers and get to a pantry cabinet or a refrigerator panel and not have the tops lineup. As far as reaching over the base cabinet, you can always put a support that rest on the top of the base cabinet to support the upper cabinets, not difficult.
14:50 - On the upper receptacle (presumably for the dishwasher), I would have used a 2-gang box where the lower one is and installed a separate GFCI outlet for the dishwasher and disposal. For wiring, I would run 14/3 from the panel to the double box, then 14/2 from the box to a switch for the disposal. Configure it as an MWBC with shared neutral, and use one hot (red or black) for the disposal and other for the dishwasher. MWBC's still work with GFCI's as long as only the line terminals are involved.
I love the Wooster snap lock 14" frame for large areas, 9" for everything else. Ready Patch tinted pink with red chalk line chalk for all my nail holes in trim and wood work. Yes you will have to sand the nail filler but no shrinking or birds eyes, and tinted pink so you NEVER forget where you patched.
I fabricate stone countertops and your attention to straight cabinets makes a massive difference in the end result! Stone doesn’t bend, we have tried!! Excellent work as always.
I love the planning! Putting the blocking behind the drywall a month ago because you knew you'd need it for the cabinets. That requires a lot of forethought, planning, and experience. Brilliant. If you did that during a reno at my house, I'd probably hug you.
@@stephentucker5406 maybe so but how many contractors doing this job would have planned out the cabinet install in enough detail to know where to put the blocking? Not saying they shouldn’t, just that I doubt most would have.
Those spacer blocks for the appliances are a great idea. I can't believe I never thought of doing something like that all these years. Probably the best tip in this video.
@@johnnytocino9313 they measure and if the opening is incorrect or uneven, they’ll get the call and they have to miss a day of work to come up with a half ass solution
You only really need the spacer stick on top. By the time you level the cabinets, the bottom of the space should be right on. You typically need a stick across the top of the dishwasher for installation so it stays in if you install it flat. At the stove opening, I install behind the face frame at cabinet side at top so it doesn't damage the frame. Knock it out after installation. Only other tip is to screw all of the bases together at the face frames and level the cabinets as a single cabinet instead of a cabinet at a time. Level side to side at face frame, straight edge front of cabinets then level front to back all of the cabinet sides. If you have the drawers installed, you can shim the cabinet box side to side at the rear and not have to adjust the drawers later as well. 25+ years as cabinet installer and I do this in my dreams as well.
Great job! I do cabinets with all of the same principles in mind. I find my jig saw to be a bit friendlier on those electrical cutouts and for finishing corners. The straight edge on the faces was what I was waiting for and you delivered.
Good plan on the cabinets 35 and shim off the floor ...saves from future water damage and money for those who think finish floor should go under cabinets! I couldn't have done it better and I've set cabinets for 35 years...way to go Paul.
I bought couple kitchen cabinet clamps for one DIY job, very helpful pull everything in alignment. Remodel kitchen alone slowly but cheaper than paying a contractor $300/hr here in San Francisco. Have long aluminum rectangular bar to locate floor high point. Everything so expensive, labor and material after the pandemic.
For the leaking dual cartridge, you more than likely had the wrong size for your face. If you do decide to get the full face mask make sure you buy the tear-away replacements, keeps you from scratching the plastic face. Make sure you store them when not in use in an airtight container and clean them every time. Edit: they are fine with oil and solvent based paints.
Great job explaining all the steps and most importantly the "why"!! Your approach and processes are so well thought out and planned, trying to take into account all of the application and use details. Thank you so much for being a professional role model to your son and this community. God Bless!
I'm in the habit of recessing/insetting the wall behind fridges, so they don't stick out so far into the room (and you don't have to pay a premium for a counter-depth fridge). That one backs into an exterior wall, making it a bit harder to recess.
1:56 okay about your question about the 18" roller, okay when you're cutting in the edges, we normally use a 2' angle cut brush and make two runs. But if you have a good cut man he maybe able do one run with a 4" brush. As long as you feather it out, it will blend right in.
I use a full face mask when spraying foam insulation and I had the same concern about a $60 mask that would be destroyed on the first use. I remeembered the dirt bike racers using a "tear-off" to recover site after mud splatter so I placed saran wrap over the clear plastic visor. It sticks well and only costs a penny or so, peel it off when done.
Im a general contractor and I always hire another company to come out and install and measure everything, Cabinets are difficult, but this video definitely made it easier for people to understand
Great idea, I have done this many times, but I always double check their plans/sketches before I agree to anything and before they start building them!
@@tomroume3178 Very true, I have noticed a couple times that they have little flaws that need to be fixed in their plans, the last thing you want is a homeowner that doesn't like the work after its all done, we all know how that goes lol.
In my experience with the full face respirator, the paint is dried like a dust when it lands on the face mask, so yes, you're wiping it (not that often) but it doesn't smear. Oil or alkyd may not dry as fast, though. For the corners; get a whizz roller... I know they're small... but way faster than a brush and cover more area. You can get 6" ones and they paint all the in into the corner and even a bit down the wall. They should screw onto any pole, too. Otherwise, I think they do sell 9" rollers with nap on the ends on Amazon. Kind of a specialty item, though.
I always make my cabinets without the footings. That way you set up the footings first and make it level. Then put the cabinets on top. Makes everything more convenient. Especially if you are working alone. Maybe something you guys could look into and see if you like it.
Very rarely done in the US. Most cabinets are pre-built or RTA and with footing as part of the wall. And custom cabinet makers always have an extra pair of hands so they would rather move fast than having to double-install cabinets
Love your videos. Full of quality information, tips, and tricks. I'm a DIY homeowner doing a remodel in my basement. Im down to doors, trim, cabinets, tile, and counter tops. I've been procrastinating big time on the cabinets, and your video illustrates beautifully how to get this done. Now, there are a lot of similar videos posted on the topic, but for me, yours is the best I've seen yet. I know a little something about photography and video production as I've worked in the field over the last 30-plus years. It's a time consumning endeavor and a skill to produce well-done, easy to watch, entertaining, and informative content in a short presentation. I appreciate the visuals and the positive vibe present within your content. I have watched several of your videos now and look forward to watching future productions. You are a natural in front of the camera. Maybe a budding career is in your future within the building trades, education and infor-tainment. Keep up the good work. Great job! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours, and all your viewers. Cheers! : )
GRK makes screws specifically for connecting cabinet faces together. The have a very small head and a reversed thread near the head. They work great and are nearly invisible when you install them.
You really should level all of the bases to each other. If the floors are bad, you might be able to see the counter tops are at different heights from one side of the kitchen to the other. ( We had builders who would check this as well as any island should all be level to each other) A person could be sitting in another room and see this or if the two side are close enough or has a window bottom near the height of the counters it might be visually noticeable. The bottom of the toes can be trimmed to help get the bases lower to the ground if needed if floors are bad instead of lifting too high. When jacking up the cabinets, I find it easier to lift up the pry bar instead of pushing down on it. When you push down you will tend to pry the bottom of the cabinet away from the wall. Lifting up will push the bottoms back to the wall. You can also use a chisel instead which would fit in your workbag easier than a prybar. Takes a while to learn to set bases without having them move on you when you shim a corner but you covered all the important stuff. Great instructions to teach the DIY person though and what to look for.
I recently just come across your videos and started watching them. I love the attention to detail and time you take to explain everything. I wanted to comment today on the painting video because I've been in the painting business 35 years. As far as the full face respirators they are definitely a good thing to go ahead and invest in. 3M is the biggest manufacturer of them and the cost around $200. If you are using quality paint and quality roller naps then you will usually not get that much paint splatter on the mask. They also sell plastic peel offs for the full-face respirators. They are pretty nice because they protect your eyes. They are a lot more bulky so for some jobs if you have good ventilation then I will usually opt for the 3M n95 pre-filter dust mask. As far as rolling up close to the wall when rolling the ceilings most people will never see that one or two inches the roller stops from the wall. Especially where you are in Louisiana it seems like most of the drywall is finished with knockdown or orange peel. Where I live in Georgia we have mostly smooth drywall finishing and there is a greater chance of seeing the difference where you have to stop short with the roller next to the wall so what I like to do is go ahead and RAM the 9-inch roller into the wall and I have a brush taped to a roller extension pole and that allows me to come behind it with one last stroke and smooth it out from the ground so I don't have to keep climbing the ladder .So maybe you can try that on your next painting drywall Adventure but honestly probably the only person who will ever see that is the person putting the paint on. I hope that might help and I enjoy all of your videos. Y'all have a very calm Pleasant and respectful attitude and just seem like nice folks. Keep up the good work!
I think your doing a great job learning how to back roll. I am a journeyman painter from Canada and your learning. Next bankroll job try bending the roller cage into a angle, the roller part. You will find rolling ceilings way easier. You no longer have to stand right under the roller looking at the paint drops falling on your face, roller will be in front of you,you neck will not get sore or as sore, as for a mask if I am using latex I prefer I good dust mask with air valve. I use a Filter cartridges. when using oil only. I have tryed the wider rollers but find them clumsy to work with harder to wash up.
The kitchen we built last year was a pain. We disassembled the old kitchen but used the old cabinets in the new area. With the way the fridge opened, we really had to customize by adding fillers and even shaving down edges of cabinets to make it work with the wall. The fridge closed was 36 inches but open it was 4inches wider, and it being up against the wall is was made it tricky.
Big tip, always try to put a cabinet against the wall (Broom cabinet or big filler minimum) to get a side by side refer away from the wall for the door swing. Refer shelves get in the way if you cant swing the door open.
10:02 ~ cabinet hanger's do this all the time and then when I come back to tell the home owner that their *New Dishwasher* that they replaced because people do that from time to time, now probably doesn't fit because they had their floors redone and the floor guy also didn't account for the half inch when they elected to not disconnect the dishwasher and stove and bring them out because they weren't paid or licensed to
Thank you for such an excellent video. If I end up re-doing my kitchen myself you will have helped me save a ton of money. I can’t thank you enough for that
Did the fixture shut off valves get replaced? Those old full turn valves always freeze up and usually require a wrench to turn them loose. All my remodels I always replace the waterline fixture shut offs with 1/4 turns.
I use a full face respirator. Since I only spray water bases products I keep a wet sponge around to clean off the occasional overspray. DON'T use any solvents! It will turn it into a melty plastic mess😂. I love this thing so much I use it for cutting grass!
I always like finished floor under the cabinets. No issues with stove not fitting then. I always paint drywall behind cabinets. Seals it. Potentially keeps growth down.
We use full face respirators and we've developed a trick to keep them clean. We wrap a protective layer of plastic wrap (cling wrap) over the lense to use as a tear away at the end of the job. We use clear plastic cling wrap like you'd use in the kitchen. It's cheap, easy to use and protects the respirator.
Painter of over 25 years here. Ask 10 painters a question, and you’ll get 10 different answers. As far as ceilings go, I like to use a high build primer/finish in flat on ceilings, sprayed and back rolled with a 1/2 inch lambs wool roller cover. If the customer wants something other than flat on ceilings, I use a high quality woven roller cover in a 1/2 or 3/8 inch. Since the walls have a sprayed on texture, a 1/2 lambs wool cover will mean less dips in the 5 and more paint on the wall. It may have just been the lighting, but it looked like you had some tanning bleeding through your primer on the beam. If that’s the case, you can always use SW ProBlock primer or Zinnser Cover Stain in aerosol spray cans. Both are good bonding primers also. Anyone can pick apart someone else’s work, but to me, everything looks fine. Quality work has been going downhill for decades now, and to me, it looks like y’all are doing great considering it’s not your everyday job. P.S. A light coat of Vaseline on your face will help seal your face mask and help with clean up, and you have to strap on your mask tight. 3M makes quality face masks in different sizes.
We have use the Vaseline for years also keep several pairs of goggles / glasses handy for your eyes you don’t realize how bad your eyes burn till it’s end of the day
As a GC Project Manager, Zinsser has become a favorite priming product of my crews. “Fish I Must” thanks for sharing. True about the 10 different answers, :) but I still appreciate hearing from the wisdom of 25 years of experience.
You are so right about 1/2 quality roller sleeves. I know it's tempting for people because the crap one's are cheap and often 3 to a pack but the cheaper the sleeve the more they roller sprays. Don't know how but it's totally true.
You need a stand to put your laser level on and it gives you a plane to level to side to side and front to back. Buy a pack of rechargeable batteries for the level that way you can run the level through the entire cabinet install. You can also start on one end of the run from the fridge opening and work across instead of having to draw all those lines. Also, hanging the upper cabinets first and using a jack stand will keep you from having to screw a board on the wall, as you move across you can still clamp your face frames and using a laser level with horizontal and vertical lines simultaneously will allow you to align the uppers and lowers. Using the actual laser line is substantially more accurate than popping or drawing lines.
Hey guys. I'm up here in Toronto Canada and since I always do ceiling and trim before walls I use one of those weenie rollers for the perimeter then go to the full sized one for the field.... But that's just me.
Goes to show the success planning brings. You’re a wise man Paul. Jordan is lucky to have such a patient and knowledgeable dad to work with. Also impressed you used actual cabinet screws to mount to the wall. I’ve seen so many nice cabinets installed with cheap construction screws and they look so ugly
Last week was my 1st time hanging kitchen cabinets , mine are flush on the top and bottom no extra material to hide the screws , my 1st cabinet i didnt like how i could see the screws inside so for the next ones i marked the center of shelfs and put my screws in behind my selfs so the screws arent visible as much as i could thought it looked nicer , for the middle area took some extra time , Obviously, if you ever change the height of the shelf, you'll be able to see them again but for now i like how it turned out
Have you ever installed base cabinets on a separate toekick base? It makes it a lot easier to level the base and attach it to the floor and wall, the set and slide the cabinets in place. And where there is a sink I leave it open, so the plumber doesnt have to lay on the front floor of the cabinet. If the plumbing comes thru the wall, then just slide the separate floor section in and your done. If it comes up thru the floor, the floor section is made short so it slides in without hitting the plumbing. You loose a little storage, but install and maintenance is a lot easier.
Hey Antonio. You must be relatively new to the Pack! We’ve gone over it a few times, I believe we did it in a video in this series! We’ll definitely talk about it again 😎👊🏼
Beautiful work. If you’re a DIY dad and don’t have a long straight edge, tie a builders line (string) to two timber off cuts and clamp them at the extremities 1/4 or 1/2” proud off the face frames.
Paul. Did you install short preventers into the electric boxes that where flush to the drywall? ( there plastic inserts that slid inside the box and on the face of the cabinet or wall plane) Per code the is to be no greater then 1/4” below the face and in the case of the cabinets that about 1/2 past the drywall face
WIire nuts are different colors so you know what size and how many wires for each nut. Romex has different colors to tell what size it is just by looking at it . Nut info is on bag or box.
3M PAPR respirator for the win. Once you use one you will never go back. Expensive, but buy-once, cry-once. The face mask is chemical and impact resistant, and you can get clear, peel off film to protect them from paint and scratches. Love you guys. And yes, you are pros, and better than most.
I've been painting professionally on and off since 1985 and 5 yrs ago got my first full face from Sherwin Williams and it was worth every penny. Peel off mylar sheilds are the way to go for protecting the face shield. Put them on in multiple layers so you can clean them a few times with a damp rag or slightly damp with mineral spirits. Once it looses clarity peel off a layer of mylar to reveal the fresh one. Another person mentioned using dust masks for latex which I agree with but the mylar shields have glue spots on the edge that can stick to a spray sock (head covering) with a little duct tape and work great for keeping it off your face.
It's one thing to have knowledge and be good at something, but you also have the ability to teach. Communicating your thoughts and ideas in a way that people can understand exactly what you are doing is not easy and you do it very well!
I have been watching your Awesome Stud Pack videos for several months now and appreciate and enjoy your commentary and very thorough explanations of your excellent and exceptional top quality work done correctly! - Great father and son teamwork! - What I realized today is Josh's smooth Camera technique is perfect! - I cannot watch videos with too many quick transitions or movement, otherwise I can get a little light headed and have to stop watching. So I appreciate your camera work as well! And yes I smack the like button before I watch each video! Keep up the great videos and excellent work! Thanks!
When installing cabinets, we would try and install the upper cabinets prior to the bottoms. This allowed us better access to the uppers and when installing by yourself, you can use a support that we referred to as a “kicker”, a “T” shaped support to hold the front of the cabinet up while you shimmed and screwed the cabinet into the wall. It’s difficult to lean over the bottom cabinets constantly and get good leverage and wears out your back and if your standing on a ladder and push a little to hard while leaning over, it can kick out on you.
Most will install uppers first. When I was installing kitchens, I always did the bottoms first. Then used the bottoms to support uppers, while I installed them. I did this, because I use to install kitchens on my own! (No, I didn't have that cabinet support, that supports the cabinet while you installed it!)
When I saw you guys take off the water valves before fitting the cabinet, it showed your dedication for quality and lack of cutting corners. You don't know how much people who pay attention to detail care about this kind of stuff. Let me guess, you would never leave the door hardware on a door and just mask around it when refinishing. I can't stand cutting corners like that. Removing those valves took 5 minutes, removing door hardware takes 2 minutes. You get a better result at the end.
I have to open my refrigerator door more than 45deg. to get the vegetable and meat bins out to clean them or to use the slide out shelves. Otherwise they don't clear the door shelves. Looks like in your layout that wouldn't be possible because the fridge is right up next to the window and the window sill.
Because of Stud Pack I invested in a level (Christmas gift). I used it for a cabinet install, not sure how I have done without it all these years! I also used it to line up studs for where to put screws; I didnt miss one stud!
If you have a lot of upper cabinets you can go with the French clip method. You take 3” rips of plywood and cut a 45 bevel on one edge, you screw the rip to the wall about 5” down from where the top of the cabinets will be. You put the tall side of the 45 up and out from the wall to create a hook. then you take the another rip cut it to the width of the cabinet and screw it to the back of the cabinet 45 pointing down. You must do some math but once you do it it starts to go pretty fast and can get into production mode. I cut jig pieces to act as depth gauges to make mounting the clip on the back of the cabinet quick and precise. I believe ikea uses a metal system that works the same. I bet you can buy the a metal system that works great. This will hold the cabinets away from the wall as thick as the plywood is that you use. Make sure you have an end panel or scribe molding that will cover this gap. Top notch cabinet makers will leave an extended side of the end panel that you can scribe to cover the gap and hide imperfections in the wall. Once you try this method and get the hang of it; it is pretty hard to wanna go back to traditional methods. If the back of the cabinet is a true 1/2 or more you can screw from the back and this will hide the screws as you do not have to screw the face of the back panel. Just make sure the screw lengths are correct. Once you set the wall clip and the cabinet clips you can set all your cabinets on the wall in minutes. If you are a smidge off with the height from on cab to the next you can put pieces of paper and place in between the interlocking 45 degree clips to shim to perfection. Probably not for the average home owner but this is how the pros do it in the sf Bay Area especially on the high end jobs. I do this method anytime I have more than 8 uppers or so in a kitchen and can hide the end gap. Another tip if doing this is to use a thicker piece of plywood for the wall clip then the cabinet clips. This will stop binding and let the clips fully seat and interlock incase of probable wall deflection and and humps. If the walls have large proud humps that are not gradual this method can be a little troublesome. Easy way if you don’t have a second guy to hold the cabinets in place before you screw or cabinet jacks. A must if you have really large and heavy cabinets like in Victorian style houses with 12 foot ceilings. Stud pack I don’t know where you live but if you moved to the Bay Area you could be killing it with your care and eye if you are not already. Nice job guys.
I just had to deal with a job where they changed to a farm sink. All I was called in to do was to move a shower valve and cap some lines. I came back to do the set out and they had double bowl farm sink already set. I haven’t done much residential plumbing since all these things became popular but I do lower my drain on new stuff to account for deeper sinks but not necessarily farm sinks. However I didn’t do anything to this job so I guess that’s moot. When I looked at the drain I thought of your channel. On top of the deeper sink, the drain pipe was 6” left of the left drain hole. He wanted the disposal there so I had to hard pipe it over to the right side which costs me even more height my because I need a little fall. It doesn’t have be 1/4”/1’ but it needs to have a little. I just knew I was going to have to cut open the cabinet and lower the drain. Luckily it hit exactly. Had it been a 1/4” higher it wouldn’t have worked. Between your videos and this job I’ll know now to speak up on remodels even if it’s not something I’m asked to do.
Saran Premium Plastic wrap. This is my go to for my full mask. I clean the mask before putting it on, it sticks great to the face shield, you can drip paint on it all day and when you are finished it peels right off.
Awesome cabinet install video for the intermediate installer. I've done a few kitchens is all. This was full of tips and confirms a lot of what I've learned along the way and wondered if others do it similar. Good job!
When you said the fridge was going in the corner, I was so sure the door would hit wall or molding. Of course I didnt give you credit for using a tape measure and it looks to work just fine. Thanks for sharing your techniques. Charles
Smashed the 'Like' button again! I'm doing our kitchen cabinets this fall... Saved this video to my DIY folder for future reference! I love all that you guys do! Keep it up!
As far as I am aware a full face respiratory is worn in areas such as a confined spaces where toxic gas and materials are found or processed or in an somewhat open area covered up with tarps to seal of the work area from the outside environment if you are working in a place that has toxic materials like Asbestos. It serves to seal of your eyes and face from the environment that can be potentially hazardous short-term and long-term...so if the area you working in does not have proper ventilation and you are working with aerosol based material that can potentially get in your skin then a full face mask is advised with a Tyveks coverall...also for your respirator make sure to get test fitted by a certified safety training and testing organization.
Spray a bit of mould remover (use wd40 if none available) on the shims at the sink frames/assembly. A few hours later use some sealant on the shim areas to avoid mould and rot ingress.
If space permits, a tall 1/2 inch vertical panel between top and bottom cabinets looks nice. Hides the fridge and keeps crumbs from falling down the side.
My top cabinet sits right on the top of the frig, because it's a old house so I had to trim it just to get the frig in! But the payback is there's no dirt or grease under the cabinets on the top of the frig. So in future work I'll be putting a panel there, you can't use that space for much anyway.
I Find using a smaller roller like 4 inches or so is better for the corners because when you use a brush it leaves streaks. But when you use a little roller with fabric on the very edge you can get paint all the way into the corner and onto the side wall and then just go over it with a big roller for a streak- less professional finish
