Thanks for making the effort Bro, I researched, purchased and installed the hideaway based on this video.Far as I'm concerned Kicker should be given you a kickback. My local installers at Best Buy were saying they thought it sounds better with the high level speaker inputs rather than the low level rca inputs anyway. Sounds great, appreciate it.
The kicker KISL works fine with it. At first mine didn't work with it. So I got my multimeter set it to check continuity. Cause the male part of the Rca on the kisl is the positive part of the Rca and the side part is the negative. So I took my multimeter put the red to the tip of the Rca then put the black wire of multimeter to each wire until it made a beep and I knew that was the positive wire for the rca. Then did the samething but the lower part of the rca and to the remains 3 wires until I got continuity again then wired the + and - to the correct wires. Then I did the same thing with the other rca tip and checked the other 2 remaining wires so I knew which wires were + and -. Wired everything together and boom it worked now. Hope this helps if you want to use rca for better sound and control with your deck instead of having to use high level inputs. If you have any questions let me know. Thsnks
Lil late but with your headunit did you make sure if there was a "Subwoofer On/Off" setting that was on and maybe that was way you weren't getting signal? I have a pioneer that has it set off by default as does my cheap dual unit in my truck with the same off by default setting
Hey I connected the wire that you sent to the battery to the red wire in the radio, which is designated for a +12V accessory and my stuff works just fine and I didn’t have to drill through the firewalll
Normally, if there is RCA out on the radio, you just run the RCA straight to the amp. If there isn’t, then you need a high-low converter (so you’re not amplifying high signal). If your amp has a built-low pass filter (which it looks like it does since it didn’t have a RCA input), then you have to tap directly to the speaker wire from your radio. What you tried to do was send a low signal from your radio (RCA output) into a low pass filter (in the amp). That is why you couldn’t get any sound. It seems like you sort of winged it, without understanding, and then made a DIY instructional video.
Minh Tran A couple of things wrong with your comment, this amp can run on low (rca) signal or high (speaker) signal. It has a switch the lets you choose your configuration. The other thing is low pass filter has nothing to do with input. I know you meant low level input (rca). Just saying.
Minh Tran kicker specifies in their directions for this that you can run the kicker rca to an aftermarket radio. He might have wired the wires in the harness wrong to the rca but he did everything else right
Did you find out why the RCA adapter didn’t work? I’m about to install mine. From the booklet that came with mine (HS8) the adapter is called ZISL but when I looked it up, only thing that came up is part# KISL.
I’m considering getting the 10 inch hideaway, but I’m not sure. Can’t decide if I want a 5 channel amp to power my Kicker CSCs more along with a component amp, or just leave the speakers as is with a powered sub. How you liking the Hideaway?
The 8 inch has been great for me even now it’s still pumping but I think the 10 would be a nice upgrade, if it used the same plugs I am thinking about wiring a 10 where my 8 is leaving the speakers and amp stock worked fine for me also
I think ur still supposed to keep it high level because it’s still speaker wire attached to rca cables. The sub works because of power. This happened to me installing an alpine power pack. I was stuck until I accidentally figure that solution.
Everyone always recommends a large gauge wire for these, but my stock amp isn’t very large and neither it’s it’s 12 volt constant wire. So my question is can I use my stock amp power source?
I just got one of these Kicker Hideaway's for my Toyota Tundra. It fits great and I like the look. My issue however is that it makes a loud click\popping sound when I hit really low\punchy notes. I'm not sure how loud these are supposed to get, I personally don't think I'm going that loud. It's as if the cone is hitting the casing or something. It sounds almost metal, I might make a video and post it on here. I try not to do it to much as I don't want to ruin it. If I avoid that particular issue it's just loud enough to add some warmth but doesn't provide a good punch, which it may not be designed to do so, which I guess I can accept but want to make sure something isn't wrong with it.
I dont have the hideaway, but my first thought is did you set the gain properly? Lower notes typically draw more power, so it could be clipping if the gain isnt properly set. It could be something loose in the casing that rattles when the low notes hit, or possibly another part of your truck that is making the noise when those punchy notes hit.
I turned it down. I think I was just pushing it too hard and the speaker cone is hitting the metal casing - I hear it's aluminum and flat so that makes sense. I just don't crank it anymore.
what if you have a home powered sub that plugs into an outlet can this be but in your truck with a power inverter and if so will it turn on by itself it uses RCA jacks from home receiver.
ricky, i can confirm that it works. i have a 12 inch powered home subwoofer. bought a power inverter and powered it on. on full power/volume, it works great. i connected my sub with an rca cable to the back of my aftermarket radio. once again it works perfectly
Beto, did you have to switch the input switch to high, since you didn't use the RCA low jacks? Also, does anyone have /had any trouble not useing the remote wire (blue) and switching it to auto turn on dc? Thanks for the tips
whats up with youre camera why does it keep going into like lines on it and then back to normal footage how does it sound man good for a dodge ram 1500 2 under the back seats what do you thank the db it puts out
Does anyone know if you need the RCA adapters to tie into a 2010 Nissan Titan OEM Rockford Fosgate stock head unit? New to this stuff and I want to replace that shatty RF 8insub/Amp that comes with the RF audio option without having to do brain surgery. A swap and replace as easy as possibly. Trying to get a little not bump, but also to power my Apline Type E speakers I got to replace the RF OEM speakers.
How has the sub been performing since installation? Have you also noticed any interference from running the power cable on the same side as the speaker cables? Pretty insightful video man 🤙
Sorry for the delayed comment, yeah the sub is still going strong! It broke in very nicely and now I am thinking about upgrading to the 10 inch version or getting another 8 inch for the other side to have a little more unts unts unts unts
Do you still like this sub? I purchased it today but thinking of returning it tomorrow and just wait and save for a custom build, i have a 2020 GMC 2500 with the Bose system but it did not come with a subwoofer
@@jikajikasafaris9682 hey man I know this video is old but I’m looking at getting one, did it come with the little 8 pin connector that plugs into the unit ? It has the remote, speaker and power wire all combined right ?
Either to a line in your car that sends off 12volts when ignition is on, or if you have a aftermarket headunit, it should have a blue wire that does the exact same thing.
one cannot gauge the output of a sound system without assessing it in the real world. The distortion you hear is the clipping on the microphone he is using to record this video
I almost bought this unit...best reviews and it appears to be the best...but it doesn't have RCA inputs. I know you can cobble it together with the adapter but wth Kicker? I want to have the input run in shielded RCA cable from my headunit (Past who knows what kind of electromagnetic interference) to my sub. And be able to control the sub from the headunit. Lame.
You should really learn about high level and low level inputs. Looks like this amp was made for high level in put that's why it didn't work when you connected it to your sub output.
You're obviously low to bass, camera microphones cannot pick up the low frequency produced by the subwoofer. This is normal on all cameras, no camera yet that I know of can handle these frequency levels.
i ended up buying one of these to add a little low end in my work truck. i can attest to one thing, the video really does not show what this little aluminum cone sub can do! i have it mounted to the floor with bolts and i found that the only way i can live with the unit daily is to have the gain set to about 1/8th. if i turn the gain to full, the entire cab vibrates! this little thing definitely moves much more than i had ever expected!
I bought this thing a few days ago and I can tell you that the videos sounds bad due to the cameras mic distorting. It's fucking awesome. It won't make your hair wobble, but it adds BIG bass to a decent sound system. I installed this in my Ute and it sounds brilliant, it is made by Kicker, don't forget that fact.
I know this video was posted quite awhile ago but I just have to say something ! This guy should not be posting tutorial videos on the proper way to do any kind of electronics and wiring installation ! One example of a totally wrong way to do something is twisting two wires together and then using shrink tubing without soldering the connection first ! Shrink tubing is an insulator that is used to prevent shorts, not a way to permanently make a connection !
Interesting mentality there I agree that if the connection is going to be under some pressure or weathering yeah go ahead and solder it but it being 3 years since the installation and everything is still running perfect it goes to show you that if you are good enough at quick splicing the wires it is sufficient.
Does not matter the conditions, that is not a proper splice. Shrink tubing is not a mechanical means of holding two twisted wires together. If you were to use a military splice or butt connector or solder it, it would be a means of insulating the connection not holding it together. I guess if it was temporary until you could do it properly it would be okay.
@@krasht1 soldering actually adds resistance and isn't needed if wire twist connection is done properly. I've got 40 year old connections still going strong. Zero issues.
B_12 they are right. It comes with 8awg wire.. with16awg your STARVING the amp/sub under peak load; which causes excessive wear, heat, and less sound output.
I think the reason your RCA connections didn't work, is because you spliced the remote turn-on with 16 gauge wire. In the instructions, it says to splice with 18 gauge.
I lost all hope for this video with the mess at the beginning and a freaking mess all thru the video. No wonder it doesn't work. Rigging shit now you got a sub playing what your doors should be playing
"thanks kicker" no, thank you for tgis cring video where you didnt use tge right power wire and had no clue what you were even talking about. thank you for showing us the stupid way to hook uo the hideaway.
Great video. I have a 2008 F-150 and plan to do this same install in a few months. It's connecting to a Pioneer AVH-X3800BHS. On that one, I think you have to set up the system as network in order for the RCA connections in the back to work for the subwoofer. Maybe the Kenwood is the same way.
You could of got 12 volt under the dash why run all the way to the engine bay for 150watts 😂 and you could tap into the rear speaker wires where you ran the wire lol
@@jikajikasafaris9682you bet nothing is worse than ripping an entire dash apart and then find out oh I didn't have too. The rcas is why you did it I know but setting the input to hi and running it off of the rear speaker signal which are in the wire bundle you ran next to under the trim plates you pulled off. You still have to run the bass level module to the front but everything else you could of tapped in right under that trim plate
