This is a fairly detailed walkthrough of how I do most slide toppers. Those under 150” that is. I highly recommend you find a helper and a second ladder if possible, regardless of the size of the topper.
Hi Nick, nice job with the install. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos. I appreciate you leaving your mistakes in so we can all learn from them. You're a natural instructor.
I also found the video very helpful. In fact, my travel trailer was set up with "Solera Ready" mounts and track rail. The first problem was that Forest River ALSO used the wrong screws when installing the access plate, so, when I tried to slip on the Access Bracket, the heads of the screws interfered with the bracket and had to be switched out with recessed screws. I doubt that I would have recognized that problem and fix if I had not watched the video. Also, I found the awning rail that was factory mounted to be about 5 inches shorter than the one that came with the awning kit. I am now trying to decide if I need to switch that out too.
My last bounder had a bunch of water get in from the slide being out of adjustment but the slide topper was long enough to cover the slide box except for a tiny bit on each side and when it rained extra hard that’s when the water would get in, on my latest Bounder I was happy to see the slide toppers going a little farther out so they cover the whole slide and then some… I would definitely do that if I ever installed different ones…
How can I know what measurements to use when I have slides that are very close together or near an awning like in your video… 3 of my 4 slides will have to be ordered smaller than normal
Are you fastening the rail 3-1/2" above slide roof or the the 3-1/2" above the t-molding flange? Confused, as Lippert refers to 3-6" above the t-molding flange, but I "think" you measured up from the roof? Appreciate any clarification. GREAT VIDEO
Can you make a video on cable slides. I have a 2024 salem fsk 178bhsk . The slide motor isnt above the slide like most cable systems. I havent actually located the motor.
A couple questions if you don't mind. My travel trailer gutter has an awning rail down the entire length. Could I use that rail instead of installing a new rail in order to avoid putting more screws holes in my walls as you mentioned. Are there issues with that you could think of our pointers if I go that route? TIA. :Nic
Do you have any vids concerning rack and pinion slide outs? My slide out does not close completely on one side. Is there a way to adjust so it closes properly? It is as though it has skipped a few teeth.
Great Video, I noticed you installed the awning rail with the screws under the awning (not showing), but the instructions show installing it with the screws on top of the awning (showing). I was wondering if you did it that way for a reason. It definitely looks nicer that way but was wondering if it might put a little more strain on the screws or create more of an area for water to lay on top of the channel when it is flipped the way you installed it?
I noticed that same difference. I too think having the screws below would be better, unless, as you say, the strain on the bracket is a concern. I will be installing mine tomorrow, so I will make that decision after I sleep on it.
@@CapTen54 I ended up doing mine as the instructions indicated with the screws up. I didn't like how the water would lay behind the channel if it is up. When finished it doesn't look bad at all.
Without hitting metal how can that little bit of thin wood hold that bracket when the wind picks up? Unless it’s thicker wood there than what they put on the roofs? Also is there a way to tighten the tension on them? My bedroom one is good but my big slide topper seems to have a little less tension.
If it's evenly sagging and not at one end....... Unravel the tube until the gimp slot is pointing at the sky, stick a heft cotter key in the end spring there is a hole that goes all the way through at the end of the spring cap. You'll know when ya got it because it will quit fighting you, best done with a helper if you don't do it often. Slide your fabric off, then pull that pin back out and rotate your tube one more turn. Slide pin back in hole, slide fabric back on and pull pin and slowly let it ravel back up. When you start unraveling that sucker when you get to the end it's gonna be slimy and wet and slippery, wear some leather gloves or something to help with it slipping in your hand. Michigan as well.