How To Install Spring Bronze Weatherstripping 

The is the gold standard of weather stripping

thank you for the demo! Am glad theres something better than felt and thATA sticky rubber stuff that ruins the paint on my door!

I have a door that lets in a draft. I’ve tried the usual weather stripping, but that either falls off after a few days, or, if I tack it on with those tiny nails, the weather stripping itself shreds. This also looks a lot nicer than weather stripping-it’ll look a lot nicer in the summer when doors and windows are open!

Thank you very much for the excellent video. The front of my house faces west and often is buffeted by strong winds. I have installed 3M V-seal around the door frame. It has worked well in keeping out air leaks but the adhesive doesn't hold up with all the friction from opening and closing the door, in part because the framing is a bit rough. Eventually I have had to replace it. This looks easy and more permanent.

Beautiful detail, but I think for performance, a bead of silicone down the length behind the nailing line is necessary. Otherwise wind is funneled into that wedge shaped void and finds any gaps and starts working it open.

It's nice to put the nailing strip behind casement window hinges for visual continuity.

If you have older with no parting strips (pre-civil war) should the spring bronze run the full length. Top window is fixed. Bottom is only one with movement. No counter weights involved, as well. Thanks!

My local hardware store has wooden handled, spring loaded, nail sets for doing this, specifically. $15.00. Just load the brass nail into the front end and push. I hammered away for years, even buying materials from the owner during that time, and one day he said, "Do you use these? Nobody buys them. They're on sale." I bought every unit he had (they are a bit low quality). I love them. You ever used these nail sets?

I didn't know they still made spring metal weather stripping. I remember seeing it on really old houses.

Hello, anyway you could post a picture of how the lockstrips are installed? I've been doing my doors and I can't seem to figure them out around the strikeplate and hinge. Thanks for all you do! Off to glaze some more now. @The Craftsman Blog

Thanks for the video, hate to criticize but I still saw sunlight on that lower left hand side of the casement window. Also another poster correctly pointed out that the hinge side was installed wrong. Even so, you had (2) 1/8" gaps where you cut out for the hinge. A lot of air can get through a 1/4" hole. I use a folding carpenters rule for accurate inside measurements, much better than a tape rule.

Thanks!

Should spring bronze go within the meeting rail? Also, should the spring bronze be placed on the Bottom of the bottom window or on the window sill? Thanks a ton

I use that on my doors because it works better than sticky strip weather stripping.

Great video. I do wish people would explain terminology though. For example what is a “parting bead”?

Great video! How do you seal the gap along the meeting rails? I tried the spring bronze but it doesn't work well for this purpose. I tried putting it on the lower sash, but I had to install it with the nails along the top of the meeting rail because otherwise they'd be too close to the glass. Installed this way, however, the bronze catches on the upper sash. I'll have to remove it and try something else.

I am unsure how wide a piece of weatherstripping to order for my double hung windows. The windows run 1-3/8"(+/-) to 1-1/2" thick. The space in the window is 1-1/2" to 1-5/8" wide. I can get 1-1/4" or 1-1/8" spring bronze. I know I need to leave space on the spring side for it to move down. But 1-1/4" would be very close nailing to the edge. Should there be a space of wood on the nail edge side as well, or not needed?

Question - I have a double casement and the two sashes don't meet perfectly in the middle, so this is where I see most sunlight. Can I install bronze on one of the sashes so when they meet there is no gap or what is the best way to resolve this when there is no mullion in-between the two at the middle.

Great video. My 1935 construction CA house has a metal tape measure style mechanism instead of ropes and pulleys in the window sashes. Would you recommend this same set up? That tape measure mechanism has rubbed small grooves into the sash over the years.

What would be the labor cost per foot? Approximately?

Thanks, great video, except you dissapointed me with the Phillips screws that I didn’t notice until the last shot.

Hey question! Yesterday I had to fix some doors that swelled after being pressure washed prior to painting. The paint was sticking to the metal weather stripping, which I took to be very old (at least 70 years based on the house age). This stripping was in bad shape anyway so I removed it. Does this stuff have any real advantage or should I just forget replacing it and opt for a better, more modern solution? The house owner is not interested in historical accuracy of the trim, just that the doors work smoothly :) Note, the doors are REALLY tight in their jambs (sort of impressed to tell the truth). Thanks!

You are putting the hinge side on backwards - nails go towards the other side on the hinge side

Hi Scott, another question. For the double hung window, you nailed the spring bronze to the top and bottom of the sashes. Is there any benefit of having it on the sashes, rather than on the sill and top of the casing?

Any Ideas for steel casement windows? Can’t hammer any nails

Where can I buy this???

Wrong wrong wrong. This is not the proper to install spring bronze. Is close but no cigar. You did not stretch it. This is what you do. Jamb and header both installed the same. Before nailing, start with one nail about 1 1/2" from the top and same at the bottom. Drive about half way each. Then bend top nail towards the header and the bottom towards the sill. This stretches the Spring bronze. If this is done correctly the spring bronze will set tight and flat against jamb or header. Now nail as usual. As you nail you can see the bronze start to spring. Then replace the bent nails with new. If further adjustment is needed. (DO NOT DO WHAT THIS GUY DID. NO NO NO). All he did was damage the material. To make this adjustment. Next to where the nails are placed. See the flange or pivot where the spring bronze starts the pull away from the jamb. Take a handle of a pliers and carefully slide on that flange. With some pressure. This will cause more spring in the bronze. Your done. It you look at the video carefully. You will slight ripples in the installation. This can cause whistling. Can be very loud as if Godzilla is in that room . One more tid bit: if a lock or hinge has to be jumped I use a piece of lockstrip to fill the space.

Why can't you just use gorilla glue or some other adhesive instead of all the nails??

Please, with the music intro, it’s too loud

What type of nails are you using

I still see sunlight

Great to see it. I did it too. The plans from Woodglut helped me a lot :)