A few little blobs in the bottom will work fine to save some silicone. Also keeps it from seaping out of the weep holes on bottom. My dad taught me this trick 20 yrs ago. Works well
I commented earlier and my neighbor who is a building said to never do this. I commented a year ago and haven't gone after the issue yet. I guess I'll give it a try tomorrow since it's Labor Day and I'm tired of it coming loose and fixing it. Even where a contractor came in to do a garage is actually falling off. It's frustrating and I don't know if I screw up, will I be able to get that siding again.
Appreciate the tip. Never messed with siding before as our house is mostly brick, but a storm came though and knocked my top piece of siding down (it’s dangling). I just might have to try this.
I’m installing Vinyl cedar shake. CertainTeed recommends using the cornice molding at the top row which is wide enough to hide the nailing strip. The local ABC Supply says it’s discontinued and no longer available in my color, so I should just use the matching J-channel. The J-channel is no where near wide enough to cover the nailing strip. Doing it their way is forcing me rip the top row nailing strip off and face nail the shake into the sheathing. I’m concerned that with no room to expand and contract that top row will bow. I’m fairly creative, but this has me stumped. The shake pieces are three rows high by 48” wide. They lock together with 4 or 5 locking strips on the back and the face of the row below it. They lock when pressing them upwards, not pressing them in a downward direction so you’re fighting gravity as well. Not sure what to do but silicone might be the answer.
Just wondering how expansion and contraction play into this method? I would never caulk a hook strip on vinyl, but if I were going to use this method, I would at least stich caulk it (2" caulking every 24", for example). I feel like the second the temperature changes the top of this wall is going to look like a sun chip.
100% silicone will expand with the piece, but I’d still stitch it where I live, in NC. We get up to 50 degree swings in temperature in one day at the changing of seasons. I cut the hook at an angle every 18” or so, and fold it under itself to thicken the lip that goes into to lock, and sometimes use silicone, or run a ring shank trim nail every 4-6 feet straight up through the lip and lock, but not into the sheeting as a last resort. I hang triple 6 with styrofoam insulation with this method and don’t get call backs, and they’re as heavy as it gets. (18” tall by 12-16 feet long)
I'm very glad I found this video !! My problem is the last panel fit half way into the j-channel so I have about an inch run and this trick will work for that. And the piece will float with the last panel if I don't use under sill. Thanks
----------‐------------- agree , better than notched....I use another method besides silly-cone ...every 2f or so cut product to create a 'tab' 2.5in wide x 5/8" - 3/4" tall . heat product w/hand brake bend forward back onto self leaving 1/8" gap this acts as tension spring 'lock' inside of the finish strip....tried tested trued...thx..
not bad idea but I just use scrap top lock tab and about 3 inches of siding from cut scrap siding (top of siding) slide into j channel nail flat to wall then measure height needed to lock tab stuff into lock tab and bam it will not let go.... as long as you measure height right. if you really want to use silicone then put into scrap lock tab.
The notching has been an issue for me over twenty years. I used the under sill strip and it just doesn't hold. I'm hoping your work fixes my issue. I've got left over siding from the job and will try your method this summer My only question to this is expansion. Won't it be a problem with expansion and contraction in the heat and cold?
You can find the lowest point on the house, and make all your corners that size. Then install the siding parallel to the house, and you won't get this problem. The top row will not have angle, this gives your install a more polished look. The under sill piece should work better in this case!
Except you want the corners to all match up and the windows/doors to look level. Which from what little I can see the siding looks level to the window. This was a case of either the builder couldn't read a tape measure or level or a corner of the house settled. That being said this is still improper. Never use silicone on vinyl siding except to go around the window and door channel. Proper way would've been to just use j channel at the top the finish (fascia nails) ever few feet where the nailing flange had to be cut off.
I either do that or put fascia nails in it under the bar. If it's really high, I put colored pole barn screws in it. It will NOT come off and is replaceable.
My neighbor is a retired builder and he told me to do the same thing. I asked about room to move and he said it's not an issue. The directions to my siding when I sided the house twenty some years ago was not to caulk or nail the top strip. I'm put up the dutch lap siding from Alcoa.
I used Dynaflex 230. I know it's not silicone, but I'm too lazy to go to Home Depot right now. I'll let you know how it holds in an update at a later time. I'm in Michigan, don't like the weather? Wait 15 minutes 😂 we get a lot of temperature swings.
thanks for the great video. I'm going to be siding a steel shipping container. how can I attach the siding since I can't nail it? ty for any assistance you can give.
In order to do vinyl siding you will have to screw in some 1x3 lumber or something every 16 inches to nail your siding and trim. that is the best way I can think of
This might be OCD, but I usually get color match exterior paint in a small quart. Then just pilot bit small hole every 3 feet or so just under the J channel. Use small fascia trim nails and drive with a nail set. and then dab it with a q tip with the paint. Will never come off. The silicon is a great back up though. No one can notice the small nail heads. If they do, they are more OCD than me and my technique!
Nope. This is the exact wrong way to install vinyl siding. Correct way is undersill and a snap lock punch and trim nails every few feet not nailing tightly though.
Great idea 👍. Someone will inevitably complain... But that will honestly just be because they are jealous they aren't doing what you're doing. Keep it up! Be safe brother 💪
@@jasonantonation8787no doubt. At that angle should've just used j-channel and secured with finish nails where the nail flange had to be cut off. Never ever use silicone on vinyl siding except around the window channel. Bad thing is he stated this is the way he finishes all top rows regardless.
I do that to on low pitch angles but like you said, it oozes out where the holes are. I always dab it like a I was pounding a nail but not were the holes are one less thing to clean up. I’m not hating at all just saying what I do, like you do, keep hustling
This is a stupid question, but how do you cut the last piece of siding? I have almost 100' of perimeter, and the skill saw shatters the vinyl and yellow metal snips are excruciating for that amount of lineal footage.
@@Lifes_Apprentice I commented to you about a year ago on this. I haven't done the caulking yet because I'm concerned about the directions saying not to do it this way. Yet I'm tired of the siding coming down. Tomorrow it Labor Day and my neighbor is going to the home improvement store. I guess I'll do it then.
@@Lifes_Apprentice I adjusted the under sill to see if that works. I may have to drop it another 1/4 inch to make it hold. I'm thinking the house settle a bit and I have to drop the under sill a bit to keep the top siding up. IF this doesn't work out comes the caulk.
What about expansion and contraction. Your way is the fast way out. Have you ever just nailed the hell out of the top piece , the. Paint the nail heads. You will not be on my development .
100% silicone allows for expansion and contraction. If you are looking for subs for your "developement" project and watching "how to" videos on youtube you are not doing your job bud
Yep. In this particular case since the house or window was built by someone who obviously couldn't read a tape measure or level the correct way would just be j channel then use trim nails every few feet where the nailing flange had to be cut off. If the roof line had been straight then undersill, snap lock punch then trim nails every few feet but not nailed tightly so the vinyl can breathe (expand).
Dead wrong. These are the ones that blow off. Undersill and the sl5 punch are the absolute best way. Been doing this 30 years. This is pure lazy with a waste of money
