I wouldn't criticize this because 2 years is a long time in terms of composite decking lawsuits, changes to their installation guidelines, and product due to insane product failure rates. Things are common place and standard install procedure that only a handful of pros were even thinking about or doing for a more conscientious client base a few years ago. I'll leave it at that. Great tip on the marking of outside deck board around posts. Putting things out into the world for all to criticize is more than most people do.
Still loving my trex decking . Had it installed 18 years ago by an individual very skilled in trex . This decking does expand and contract with weather conditions , and will sag if not properly supported especially in hot sun . The decking does get warm if it’s in the hot sun , mine is around my pool so I do spray it down periodically if we’re using the pool , but the advantage to that being if it’s 65 degrees outside i can be out on my deck because the trex has absorbed a little warmth . Also trex decking does require care , it is not a carefree material , I do power wash my decking every two years as mold can sometimes collect with moisture , and the decking should be cleaned of any debris that collects on it to help prevent mold and mildew , overall I have gotten my money out of this deck , 18 years ago it cost me ten thousand dollars to build my deck and it is fairly large and has brought a lot of enjoyment to my family ..
Been installing these for years now, figured I might learn a few new tricks but all I see is inconsistency. 1st, joists should be at 12" not 16, the amount of trex decks I've redone for people because their joists were on 16 and sagged is insane. 2nd, why take the time to install "outriggers"? Lay your board on top of the last deck board on the deck itself, make your post marks and measure the distance from the last installed board to the end of the deck and your done, that'd save more time. 3rd, you finished your deck in 2 different ways which would look odd when completed, that blocking around the deck is only necessary when you are picture framing the deck with a 1/2" over hang to butt the skirt board up to, if you are raising the the skirt board to cover the cut ends and flush it to the top of the deck the blocking was a waste of labor and material.
Good vid mate. But you DO NOT butt the ends togeather. You must leave a 4mm or 0.015 " between them otherwise they will bow up when they hea t and expand. Also when possible leave them in the area for a week to aclimatise.
Sometimes you have to face screw it if your running a Dexerdry system to keep underneath dry for a sitting area. The hidden fastener groove gets taken up by the seal for the Dexerdry. Otherwise yes, why face screw it?
Please build a time machine so you can tell that to the guy who made me face screw his entire 17'x27' composite deck. And while you're in the past, also tell him that butt joints are not attractive??
I did 3 decks with Trex in 2002. Used the specified screws that claimed to not mushroom, same screws you used. They did mushroom. Ended up pre-drilling and counter sinking everything. I used a round over router bit on the cut ends, looked great.
Done ~2600ft2 of Trex including Trex Elevations (steel framing members) on 5 decks. This said: 1) yes, the ends might not be square (arrg) 2) 2x as long is reasonable 3) unlike this video, spec is for gap spacing on butt joints (spans > 20'), and there is quite noticeable gap movement over the seasons (may even want to use double joists here) 4) even at 16" there -can- will be noticeable movement when walking (i.e. unhappy client) 5) since not wood, requires great precision--can't just sand flush a little off miter e.g. 6) plastic flexible, bad when trying to get it square, good when you need some movement to install 7) hidden fasteners take time but give a good result 8) starting hidden fasteners give a telegraphed rise so pretty much have to rabbet to keep flat 9) with Elevations, they actually require you to counter-bore over each fastener, a laborious task (and never happened to me but spade bit tip can easily poke through) 10) you really need to use deck clamps to insure tightly abutted boards/even gap spacing (had to remove a whole lot a worker didn't do quite right to please client)
Well said. Also, cut perimeter after installation and a couple days of movement has occurred on hidden fastener systems so as to let the deck find its happy medium. I'm not keen on having wide flat surfaces under the end to perimeter board support like they showed early on. It's just a wider collection for water. Instead I like to space extra joists and space blocks to encourage drainage.
@@every_thing_wood1251 They are happy so the answer would seem to be yes. A few years in and durability (including harsh sun exposure) has been fine and looks to continue for some time. I would not hesitate to undertake the higher cost and use Trex again. One note is that Trex Elevations (steel framing members) seem to no longer be made. Don't know why. So I guess I'd have to use old school PT beams.
@BB-xq6rj it does help, but whenever possible, respect for nature always works better in the end. The smaller the surface area for water to collect, the better. Remember, given enough time, water destroys or changes most things, so better to give it a path to leave while you wink at it.
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package ru-vid.comUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
Obiously Perkins does not like using that product. The reason: It is more W. O. R. K. It's no telling how much effort that homeowner had to put into standing his ground and not let Perkins talk him out of composite. Hats off to you my friend. You hung in there and got what YOU wanted instead of what the builder wanted. I commend you.
we actually use this stuff on almost every house because it actually lasts a long time. We do charge extra to install it so IM NOT trying to talk people out of it on account of it being more labor. We do whatever the client likes ;)
Two things I noticed , one he’s was using his speed square backwards while cross cutting. Flip it so when cutting it locks at 90 degrees. Make sure your saw is sitting high enough to pass over the square. Second, I’ll use 2 speed squares to drop between the boards for spacing. I liked the oscillating tool trick. If you don’t have an oscillating tool when finding the angle with a bevel gage just remembered under 90 degrees over by half the degree each board, over 90 degrees cut under by half the amount on both boards.
lol @ the end " you get a perfect fit on the corner everytime" with a backangled 1/4 at the top 1/8th at the bottom gap. You can see him come off square when cutting with the multitool not flat on the existing cut he was trying to match. Oh well still a cool video, always easy to pick stuff apart my own included perfectionism is what keeps us all getting better.
Good product. Looks great -- no painting required. Installed 160 sq. Ft and am pleased especially with 25 year life. Way better than pressured treated lumber.
You failed to allow any drainage (where you laid the 2x6) for the band board; so water will collect there at the end of every board and have nowhere to go. Drill a 3/4” hole in the 2x6 where each corner of the deck board meets the band board.
I have been reading the comments and there a lot of negative comments about Trex decking. I had my deck built four years ago and I love it, it looks the same as the day it was built. Mine was built with the hidden mounting hardware and I could not be happier. I have had wooden decks and they are a lot of maintenance. I used there high end product with metal hand rails. It is hot in peak sun times but I dont entertain in the middle of the day so its not an issie. My concern is how long did those who not like this product own it before it went bad. This deck cost more upfront but I factored in the time and expense of stripping and sealing the deck every couple of years, well worth the extra cost.
@@lookssssssssss I own two homes and my other house has two decks one with cider and one with PT, every two years I have to strip the old seal and reseal them. They look good for one years, it's time consuming, expensive and in general a pain in the ass. I much prefer the Trex, it looks good and needs no real maintenanc. If there is a negative it's that is does get hot in direct sun. Good luck either way.
Number 7, you can put the board on the other side of the post upside down and mark it. Number 10, I would have cut it from above rather than beneath. Thanks for sharing! Learned a lot.
Exactly!! The exact reason why I'm looking at this stuff now. Lumber prices are insane, thank God I reno'd my building last year- a 4x8 sheet of 5/8" Pressure Treated is $114 Cdn today...F*ck that!
@@harbourdogNL also 16" o/c and 12" o/c for stairs, depending size of deck coukd add up. I just don't Iike the product , much prefer real wood. It's also hot af to walk on I summer.
If/when Trex delaminates, which it is known to do, depending on the batch, the warranty only covers the cost of replacement material. It does not cover labor costs related to removing/disposing of the defective material nor installing new material. Also, Trex WILL stain if drippings from a barbecue hit the surface. Dawn dish soap may help, but not always. Always place a protective barrier between your barbecue and Trex. In theory, Trex is supposed to last longer making it more cost effective over the long run than redwood. That is not always the case. Certain colors fade quite easily within a relatively short period of time. Trex is actually a waste product from Anderson Windows consisting of wood and polymer materials left over from the making of doors and windows. This waste is ground up and mixed with colors and adhesives. When it delaminates, it looks like a soggy roll of toilet paper. It is recommended to seal the cut ends and penetrations of this material with some sort of adhesive/sealant. When the weather gets hot, Trex on 12" centers does better than on 16" centers for the deck surface. For stairs, regardless of climate, Trex recommends 12" centers, otherwise the material will bow. It is not very scuff resistant.
I have a nearly 700 sqft deck and have been beating my brains out trying to find price for composite decking by the sqft. I'm glad you got to it right away and that the price is halfway manageable (less than my cost for wrought iron rails!)
If you have the opportunity never butt boards together. Either run it 45 degree or put a divider board in the middle. **if you’re using transcend since it’s usually for a more premium project**
OK, they changed the way to lay it, as we had little plastic wafers that were screwed down between the boards (screw at a 30* angle to the run) you had to use a wafer cutter to set holes mid way down the edge of the board. Plus, you had to use a wax/glue mix to seal every saw cut, and every scratch.
I didn't understand the angle drilling thing. I thought it was just a camera view. So the angle drilling was real and done to catch a blocking? Why not block where the support is needed? Hard to tell with these videos.
Thanks for the comment… I realize that I should have mentioned that in the video so I just made a video about it. You can find it on our Perkins builder brothers RU-vid channel
Instead of laying a 2x board flat on the outside for the ends of the trex to sit on, I would just install an additional joist with a 2-3" gap between the end joist. That way water can drain properly between the field ends and the picture framing deck boards. This should keep that "flat" 2x from rotting out over time. Also, tape the joists. Just saying.....Trex is expensive and you want to protect your investment.
Lately, here in my section of New England anyway, pressure treated lumber is getting harder to find in any quantity. Place an order of a couple of pallets from the big boys and you may wait weeks for delivery. My latest deck stock came in only $500 dollars cheaper than a mid range composite. Sometimes the extra work pays off in the long run.
Trex has decking with grooved edges so you can use a hidden fastener to attach to the joists. Make sure you do some research before doing this project yourself.
Toronto Canada🇨🇦… These guys effing rock… Thank you so much for these little tips… Anybody installing Trex etc,,, flooring decking… Check these guys out… 👍 by the way Guys don’t work too hard😂 enjoy a cold beer LOL🇨🇦
As you don't butt the composite material and leave a slight gap, we used specially designed screws between each board that fit into the factory board groove. That way there are no visible screws in the decking. When we did the outer "picture frame" we used a drill with a countersink bit. The screw was countersunk, then a plug was placed in the hole. This way there are virtually zero visible screws on the top of the entire deck, including the steps.
So I did not go to Lowe's or Home Depot. They seem to rotate specialists and I wasn't confident that they could fill my needs. Instead I went to a building supplier. The person who assisted me had a computer program.I measured the width and length of my deck and railing as well as width, length and number of steps. He put it into a computer program and it spit out what I needed, It included boxes of screws, as well as the anchors for the boards, bits to be used for the screws between the boards (since I used composit and they are not butted together and need room to breath). Also included was the bit to countersink holes and the plugs to fill them. Since MOST of the screws are actually bertween the composit you don't need those counter sunk. Near the ends of the boards you may. I also put a "picture frame" around the deck. This was darker boards in color and also not "slotted' on the ends so that you get a smooth finish all the way around. I did not get a countersink bit or plugs for that, so what I did was buy some plug drilling bits, and made my own plugs from slop I had left over after cutting the picture frame boards. When I was done a neighbor who helped me was amazed at how little slop I had left. The program was pretty accurate. I could also return any boards left over, but didn't need to.
I don't see any facia style pieces for the sides. As-in if you build a front porch steps to go to a front house door, what is used as the toe backstops? And do they make matching posts? I think this composite is better in idea than reality.
I never go more that 12inch center and most customers do not like exposed fasteners and I use door and window tape under the edge joint to keep water setting an raw wood black paint on top of all the joist so you can see any raw wood
Is joist tape really necessary? My father-in-law's deck is 30 years old and has no problems with rot. Just wondering if it's really worth the $75 it'll cost me as I'm about ready to fasten my deck boards on. And his cousin has put up a ton of decks and never heard of people taping the joists.
@@brianheath5091 "My father-in-law's deck is 30 years old" because lumber 30 years ago was better than the shit lumber of today, that's why. Joist tape makes perfect sense unless you live somewhere where it hardly rains.
Not that good a video, with composite decking it is really important to leave a 6mm expansion gap where the boards meet, as composite decking will expand??
Whenever I do any composite I advise the customer on doing 12" centers on joists. Especially if the deck is in full sun most of the day. Otherwise there will be sagging in between joists.
Missing a)screw hole plugs B) hidden fasteners C) joist protection D) seperate double joists for butt joints with atleast 1.5inches to allow air/water to flow through E) that was a terrible miter
Is joist tape really necessary? My father-in-law's deck is 30 years old and has no problems with rot. Just wondering if it's really worth the $75 it'll cost me as I'm about ready to fasten my deck boards on.
Watch that Hitachi circular saw. I had the same one, and the small spring that retracts the guard broke, leaving the spinning blade completely exposed, luckily i caught it, returned it to Lowe's for store credit, and got a DeWalt. My coworker had the same Hitachi, same thing happened, and he cut his upper leg open very badly.
@Yo Mama I'm not sure what that guy ended up doing.. I got lucky, wasn't hurt and got store credit.. he probably threw the saw out and got stuck paying his medical bills.
Installing trex on preexisting deck? Is that what you meant? I was just contracted to restain a deck but then we started talking about trex. I’ve never done one so I’m here. Any help is well helpful
Thanks for all these tips. One thing i don't get is that manufacturers ask us to account for expansion but at the same time they approve face screws which should restrict the boards from moving. Anothet question is shouldn't we leave a gap even on the miter corner?
Expansion needs a space, not every space. Close your mitre but leave 1/4 at the opposite end. If butt joining, transition the space to the next board end😢. As long as the line has a space to expand, it will go the path of least resistance. Of course, if you are transition in the middle of a deck, leaving the space on both ends looks nicer with a transition piece and more space to expand.
I thought in general butt seams had to have a gap ? Does that depend on the type of material??? And from what I'm hearing if it's doable, full shots no butt seems
We are replacing an existing deck. The joists are at the correct spacing. Should I use larger screws than were used for the existing decking? Did you drive screws in at an angle or at 90 degrees to the deck?
12 inch OC and for steps go to 10 if you can…….simple. Do it correctly the first time. I am 2 years now into a new PVC Wolf deck….and the deck is still super solid….and will be for years to come
I definitely have to charge more for labor vs. Regular 5/4 pressure-treated decking install. It’s really a pretty durable product if your client wants an open deck.
Trex recommends 12" joists on center for commercial and 16" for residential. Don't do 16" like I did, I stripped old wood decking at new house and used the Trex grey. First summer in PA it heated up that bad and now has more waves than the shore. And at 16" you can feel it bouncing under you.They don't tell you it gets that hot in sun you can't walk barefoot on it and if your joist twist when drying out or not perfect it will show every possible defect.Never Again!
shits time consuming and heavy, but looks pretty good. honestly I did 16oc with my current job, and it just feels like I prolly shoulda done 12. no structural value at all... had to block more than I wanted to... all my decks are seamless, that does go nice with composite too.
This is nice to walk on when it gets warm. Like walking on a trampoline, especially with 16" centers. Build it in the sun & at night looks like a child did it.
I rebuilt my deck this summer and used Timbertech's AZEK Vintage Collection in Coastline. Unlike Trex, you can stand barefoot on this deck in full sunlight - this alone is what sold me on the upgrade and couldn't be happier!
Since UVA & UVB light deteriorates everything, and I do mean everything, over time how would you go about making the Trex decking appear new or at least renewed in it's faded, likely micro fissured surface? I doubt that it'd take any conventional wood stain. Is there a renewal compound specically made for Trex?
I live in Toronto. Installed mine in spring , cool morning , hot afternoon. The 20’ boards expanded almost 3/8” when it got hot. . I don’t think you can do flush cut but joints unless it’s already really hot outside?
Not horrible info. It’ll get tour deck installed at a mediocre install. Use turbo clips it gives you 3/16 clearance which is a heavy gap but looks good and you won’t have mushroomed screw heads. Notice they never went back to show you a screw fully inserted. And for good reason. Trex screws are horrible they are a 2way screw. U insert it then run your drill in revers to suck the head in which inter lifts the board slightly. Lowe’s Home Depot and me adds all sell a back up color match screw that works much better , still if you don’t want the mushroom you have to give it a smack with a “smooth head” hammer
Eric and Jamie, great job with the videos! Just purchased a small cabin a bit west of Murphy near Bear Paw. A new deck is upcoming and doesn’t make sense to me to go all-in with Trex. I’ll reach out for a referral when the time is right. Again, thanks for sharing all the inside scoop!
I've got this on mine. They told me that at the butt joint not to angle screws - use sister joist n run screws straight helps with breaking the screw. Seems that it likes to move. Not sure if I would do again. It's spendy too!!
Installed decking a few years ago All the deck boards have split along the edges and swelled so much there is very little gap between the boards. Good thing I bought it at a discount at a bankruptcy sale
You’re installing the outer board in the wrong direction. The “arrows” are defined on this particular board and they should be oriented in the same direction. I also recommend a 22.5 degree bevel on the butt joints.
Perkins Builder Brothers in my company these 2 guys agreed to doing decks this summer. My boss signed some jobs to do decks before summer started and those 2 dudes quit. Now me and one other kid whose also 20 have to build these decks on our own because they quit on us but our boss already agreed to the work. It’s just rough all around lol
