Great tip and work! I don't do this for the bottom sill plate on windows. I cut blocks of various thicknesses and carry pre-cut buttstrip. I use this for shimming the bottom in 3-4 places. That way when a kid (or goofy adult) steps on the sill like they shouldn't, it is absolutely solid and doesn't move. The sides/top I will use this method.
and this is why i subscribed. Not only the tips and tricks, but how you explain and communicate is great. You and ScottBrown in NZ are my top yt carpenters to watch. You should do more tools reviews ;)
Looks great . After we made our jamb extension we would use a foam gun to insulate between the extension and the ro then put the casing on. It fills the gap and makes them very secure also.
Why would you do it any other way? If you premeasured and shimmed, then went back and made your trims and extension jambs for your windows and exterior doors in your shop as well as assembling a stack of all your interior door trims then your first full day on the job you could have all your windows trimmed, hang and trim a bunch of doors and look like a full crew had been there for a day when it is just doing things properly. No running, no extra people. Just proven professional production methods for a high quality job. Again, why would you do it any other way. I guess if during that 1st day of screw shimming and taking measurements there were distractions that caused an error in jamb dimensions that could cascade to the trim then that 1st day might not be so impressive. Don't ask me how I know... But even then, why would you do it any other way. I appreciate your methods and demeanor and enjoy your videos. I hope RU-vid is rewarding you well for your service to finish carpentery. Thanks Spencer.
True craftsman you are.I wonder how you got so much experience and craftsmanship and pure Skill in such a young mans life.Great job as i seem to expect now.Thanks.Be Safe.
so lucky to have that run of windows installed plumb, square and level across the total run. would be a 1% chance this would be the case on a remodel. nice work.
I understand its fast, but i still prefer to do jamb extension and casing separate so i can insulate the space between jamb and framing. Also, I put more screws on bottom because someone is bound to put a lot of weight on the window ledge. Love this channel.
Up in Canada we insulate the gap, but the prebuilt jams I've used for a very long time. I prima and 1 coat my jam material before cutting, and then it's one coat of paint on the finish product after nail hole fill and corners. I've used a commercial hot glue gun for years, but never on trim ! That's a great idea, thanks ! Love the efficiency work flow ! I'm not sure what the reveal on the window plastic to liner is, I leave 1/8". Anyone know what Spencer leaves? Thank you to all the great subscribers to this channel, comments are excellent !
Pinnacle of efficiency. Step up your jig game. Make a hole in your jig. Hole should be slightly larger than the size of a bit, but smaller than the screw head. Thus you could adjust the shimming depth without moving the jig to and fro.
Just wondering if you've ever used titebond quick and thick? I've tried pur adhesive but haven't been able to get it to work consistently for me. With titebond quick and thick I can work with a similar work flow
Thanks for all the comments and channel support! Infinity PUR WW30 Polyurethane Hot Melt - amzn.to/3oHMku4 Infinity PUR-3000 Dual Temp Corded PUR Hot Melt Applicator - amzn.to/3kKo1th WoodRiver Miter Max Corner Clamp - amzn.to/37Zlqrx #6 FINE Thread Drywall Screws with Phillips Drive #2 Bugle Head - amzn.to/2GeD1Aq
For what its worth I have a method I like. I think I'm going to change my first step to incorporate your method though. I like to measure the windows to get what I want for the size if my jambs. I build my jambs. I shim (next time I'll use screws instead) the bottom of the opening. I set my assembled jamb in the opening, centering the bottom. I nail the bottom. Then I shim it in place like I would the latch side of a door, nailing it as I go. I use my vibrator tool to cut off my shims and its ready for casing. The thing I like about your method is you can assemble it with the casing on and install in as a unit. I may try that now that I've got the Pur gun recently. Was afraid to do that in the past because I was afraid I'd break the corner joints on the casing apart. I really like your videos and think it's great that you are free with your experience. There are a lot of generous people who post videos of how they do things. But you are skilled beyond most of them. You're ahead of me, that's for sure! I get good results but u ou do it even better most of the time and your efficiency takes the time factor down a long ways. Keep up the good work.
Gonna need to start taking notes of all of these nifty hacks. I have used the screw head hack on some other situations but never on jamb extensions. Another nugget from Insider Carpentry.
I have always assembled my casing then installed them with 18 gauge pins, adjusted the reveal to where I like it then put small blobs of can foam about every 12” around the window. Under the sill I put solid foam. Then install trim after foam has dried. Probably a bit slower but insured a very solid casing install and it never pulls from the vinyl window. *just have to be careful not put to much foam as to bow or bulge the casing!
I like to use plywood shims. 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc. Shim space from stud to window. Gives you a nailing area. Precut all, install as 1 unit. Goes fast. Gives you space to add expansion foam for insulation.
This is the problem w today and short cutting..some things you just don't change and this is one of them. This has no structural integrity. This method would be ok in a jam but, not as practice. How about warped, bowed stock especially in larger windows such as these.
It’s called efficiency. If you pay attention in the video the material is FJ poplar. It’s straight and flat. You nail near the shim/screw points just the same as wood shims.
@@InsiderCarpentry itd be like ripping out a door built in the 70's by hand as compared to ripping out a split jamb door of today. To ME it's just shoddy workmanship but, to each his own. As a homeowner and builder I would not accept this in my home. I guess I'm just ol school and feel that way. Good luck w future projects and God bless.
But why? There is no basis for what you’re saying. You said “there is no structural integrity”...why isn’t there? It has shim points. The jamb is nailed at the shim points. The casing is nailed securely to the jamb. There is a perfect reveal at the window. There is a perfect reveal at the jamb. The casing miters are bomb proof. I teach real life value driven carpentry. There is never going to be a discernible difference between my product I’m this video and anything else you would do differently in real life. Using a cedar shim might seem better, but if you stop and think about it you still have 95% of the jamb unsupported by the shim. It’s just a head thing.
@@InsiderCarpentry I just feel a shim has more surface area instead of just a "pivot point" but, it's just a matter of opion. Also I feel it has more rigidity.
I get it. I agree with what you’re saying. My point is, does it matter? Where is the line of diminishing returns? A 2x6 wall is better than a 2x4, but is a 2x8 wall even better? Where is the value line? My job is to provide value. Best quality at the best price. I’m confident in the value of screw shimming and unless we’re going to start hitting window jambs with sledge hammers you will never discern a difference in the product in the video vs tradition wood shims. Also as an installer, using traditional shims adds the challenge of dealing with twisted and inconsistent framing. You mentioned pivot point. In real life I think you’d find that you would have pivot points with with wood shims also. My jambs are perfectly perpendicular to the window.
The framing is mint at that house. Great job! I use that method for basement windows. But I'll improve it with your jig and drywall screws hack, TOP ideia.
Jason Melo proper framing and window alignment are key. Most of the tract housing I work on have windows out of level/alignment. Makes doing the trim a PITA!
Aahh andersen 100 series fibrex windows is what you have there. Andersen windows are all just about the easiest Windows to put jam extensions on especially their would models like 200 series 400 series and a series because they have a channel in the frame that allow you to line the jam extension up with the perfect margin if the window didn't already come with the jam extension on it. But the windows you are doing don't come with the jam extension generally but still very easy product to work with. Looks good man!!
How long does the hypur glue take to setup? In a room with all those windows, if you see the windows aren’t all level, would you try to correct by leveling the casing with a laser level or just use the jig to shim to level with each opening even if they don’t all align? Great video. I’ve learned a ton from watching your videos. Thank you
I use that same method with the drywall screws when I do oversized cased openings works really good keeping everything straight without having to attempt to shim something that could be 8 to 10 inches and width.
So no nails through extensions jambs into trimmer? I need to rethink what I've been doing all these years. Great video. Wish such a resource was available back in the day.
It may sound a little Cowboyish ,but I don't bother shinning in that situation. Once you've thrown some controlled 2 1/2" finish nails through the Jambs and then some brads through the casing, where's it going to go ? Nice work by the way !!
In our area, we staple a vinyl u-channel to the face of the window. I think you can get them in 5/8" or 3/4". Vinyl matches the window color. I pre-assemble the extension frame, scribe and trim for width if it's really uneven. The U supports the frame, and hides any gaps if there is movement later on. Nice clean finish when you're done.
That u channel is a good idea as that joint will have to be caulked anyways. That would look better especially if you are using varnish grade finish trim, as a caulk joint does not work with that type of finish. I would ask the window manufacturer to furnish them since they have to be extended and if memory serves me correctly, Anderson windows does sell them as an accessory to their windows. At least they used to years ago. I had to do all mine but my difference was very small extension (vinyl coated wood extensions) to match window finish) and I could nail them on directly to window.
Nice job Spencer. Very nice and quick quality work. I also use screws for baseboard installation. I end up with drywall factory edge at very bottom and need to "screw" them out prior to baseboard install so it doesn't tilt in too much. Also use them in coped corners and just adjust the screw to fit the opposing cope cut. Dial in the fit with the screw head. Also keeps my joints nice and tight. As for those windows, I can understand that as a sub coming in to do this you can't be that hung up on sealing these windows up tight. I get that. But that looks like a 2 x 6 wall that the bank of windows are in overlooking that lake and if that is west or north facing, those jamb extensions are crying to be filled in with non expanding foam prior to sealing off with your wood. I know I would have done it if it were me but only if they paid me to do it. Forgot to add FYI. Anderson sells these extensions in a vinyl finish wood to match their window interior you are extending off from. Thst's a choice for GC of house, not yours. They do look very nice and are very durable around any moisture buildup on those windows which will sweat in the winter. Especially on the bottom.
Is there any concern that three screws for the stool may not be sufficient support if someone were to sit on it? Or does the FJ poplar have enough tensile strength?
They still make hand screwdrivers. You are carpentry wizard, though. I've been involved in homebuilding since the70's. I'm a second generation builder. And, great idea on the screw shims and jig. I'm showing this to my guy.
Great work, thanks for sharing. Did you previously check windows to see if they are level and plum one to another? Would you adjust and cheat reveals where jamb runs into windows if they were off? I do the same thing with using screws for shims for preassembled casing units as well, and it’s a lot faster and easier to adjust.
Can not thank you enough for this tip. Started using the drywall screw shims 6 months ago, and today was shimming 20 windows with your method. Takes a minute to shim them, but the install more than makes up with the time saved, and piece of mind that goes with the time savings. You Rock Spencer! Thanks again for this excellent content.
Poplar is hardly inexpensive. I don’t know what else you would use for paint grade that’s better quality. Maple is impractical for trimming a whole house.
I don't know if you are familiar with the Carlsberg beer ads , if Carlsberg did carpentry it would be you and no probably about it!. Ps. You can't beat the screws for micro adjustment.
Great work. Guessing the window guys did a decent job regarding the reveals and everything being plumb. Most I come across are way out. Having to do each one differently.
Another epic video! Can’t think of anyway to improve that besides adding your clone 🤣 anyways keep up great work. I’m spending time off Instagram and back to just following a few of these builds for better learning and less time wasted just looking at pics. Great job!!
Clever shimming! Obvious - once you see it done the first time. Did you have to ensure the plywood top on the saw horses was flat - or was there enough flex on the wood? I assume you attached the extension jamb to the framing. If so ... Would have been through a cedar shim. Did you have to know where the drywall screws were? Could the heads have punched into the casing if the jamb was fixed too tightly? Thanks for the video!
Very slick but I’m not sure it would be effective in my 120 year old, balloon framed home where everything is an adventure in carpentry. Envious of your miter saw setup. I have the Flex Volt model of your saw but not that cutting table.
How do you account for getting a same or similar reveal on the drywall in between window units? Or is this not something you’re worried about because the framers you trim behind are precise and have more or less perfect spacing between window openings? Thanks for the wealth of knowledge you’re giving away for free it’s helped me grow as a carpenter a lot recently.
In Florida I NEVER see windows set consistently. Either the guys installing the bucking or the guys installing the windows do not care to plum or square them resulting in as much as 1/2” differences from corner to corner. In a situation like this would you try and scribe the jamb extension or suggest the drywallers float it out and keep the jamb extension one dimension?
As a window treatment installer, I really wish more trim carpenters did your quality of work. Makes me sick to find a NC house with 1/2-3/4” differences in a wood jamb. Well done!
Wow great trick with the drywall screws as shims, I so stealing that idea, thanks for the trick and love the videos, please keep them coming. Also yes you can teach a old dog new tricks, I'm a retired carpenter.
How about windows that are flush mount? They are not trimmed out, you just see the metal frame. How can I case these windows that won't look stupid and would add enough room to inside mount 2" blinds. It's 3 tall windows in a row and I would like to frame them out so I won't need a valance to hide the blinds outside mount hardware.
In the U.K. We build proper houses out of brick so screw trick don't work but like it anyway I have never seen anyone use the hot glue gun would it work on Upvc windows you Aussies are on the ball
nice trick , but most often the jam extension vary ... how do you deal with that ? Also isn"t it good to also insolate behind the jam ? in cold climates
Any particular reason you decided to run the drywall screws about 1”-1 1/2” away from the window? It’d seem like asking the frame to hold the outside edge from flexing is asking a lot. Love the setup and the idea honestly. Great video.
I think it’s stronger but then you’re asking your finish nails 15 gage I assume to hold up your favorite 4yr old dancing on the casing. Lol I see the wood, I see the setup and I love it! I’ve always been the shim guy on my projects because I wanted a firm “front to back.” I or anyone could take this and add a font and back screw. He said “fastest method” and he was right! No complaints. Just asked if the meaning of the method did have callbacks... I’ve been dealing with people my age 36, they have kids. My father deals with people that are retired and nobody would ever sit or stand on that casing.
This is a method I want to try but doesn’t leave any wiggle room to move them around so your casing lines up. I find that windows aren’t perfect lined up and sometimes unlevel so I always have to adjust one jamb to the one next to it so my trim lines up and down and the empty space between the trim on each window is the same measurement.
You do some great work madman, very clean job. absolutely great method. Myself,.. Even if those units had not been laid in dead on level, set up and adjusting the inside units on end units set up to the seat screws would be easy. Great method, Thanks as always, sure to use it.
Crazy how different USA carpenters do this. I have never seen anyone do it this way. Over in the uk we all just the window ingos seperatly each side and pack each side out then just fit the facings individuality
I'm definitely going to try this method next week on the window job I'm on. I batch cut and picture framed all of my exterior casing it turned out great. Thanks for sharing the great content.
Great job 👍 I " accidentally" discovered this method about 15 years ago when I went to trim a new house and realized after I started that the supplier didn't bring the shims, so I had to improvise
