I installed two new water heaters at my home beyond the original. I always put the sediment/drip trap in before the gas valve, but I never saw or felt any particles, etc . In the trap after disassembly. Always best to use black iron pipe with gas because the galvanizing can deteriorate over time. Locally , everybody uses pipe dope , rated for gas, for fittings versus yellow tape. I hard piped the gas connections both times, but maybe next time I’ll use a flex hose. Seems much easier.
Replacing my gas valve and the gas pipe has this configuration. Many other videos had an adapter between the valve and the trap. Now that I have my new valve in place, this is helping me reassemble everything. Thanks for the spot-on video!
Thanks for this. All this time of living in my place of 25 years...it never had this. I just changed out my water heater so I may as well get this done!
Very helpful video - thank you Tim! Doing my own R&R of a water heater from 14 years ago - I'm guessing CA code did not require a trap back then, but it definitely does now. So glad I found this!
Just got an inspection done, the water heater was replaced in 2018 and they didn't do this.. Used to do natural gas so I'm confident though using this in communication with the seller to see what they'll do about it.
Yes agree! good video, but as Joe said tin the comments is better to use black iron pipe or plastic-metal like pe-al-pe (Durman). Also in Mexico black pipe is the regular think.
@@AWEF321 No link from me as I'm not American but, the reason why galvanized pipe is no good is because the galvanized coating will, over time, flake off. The pieces of the galvanized steel will clog gas regulators and burners.
@@kazielbonn That's what people say, but I can't find any credible sources on this. I also spoken to two master plumbers and 1 journeyman and all three disagree with the notion that galvanized steel flakes off
@@joeblow9850 so you basically was so broke that you left because you couldn’t afford to install a sediment trap for your gas line. Sucks man, hope you found happiness in indiana or Virginia or wherever you went
Good job of installing trap with one big exception, well two. Galvanized pipe is not allowed for gas line, black pipe only! The big exception really is the over use of pipe dope! You put so much on and left gobs inside of pipe it will be carried into burner causing all kinds of problems!
Please clarify this set up based on current UPC code. I have this exact set up for a gas water heater installed by my plumber several years ago which I intend to duplicate. I am replacing my temperature control valve. I have been told that under new UPC code, that the sediment trap must be installed after the gas shut off and before the flex. Is this what I am seeing in this video? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Thanks, Tim for the time you spent making this video, even though you are correct in giving instructions on installing the trash-Trap on the gas line, I never heard of any code saying it's ok to use galvanized pipe for natural gas, Black pipe instead, are you sure where you live the code ok's the use of galvanized for natural gas? you are well appreciated but I will suggest that you check again because galvanized has a deterioration problem when used with natural gas. thanks. Be sure to mention that most codes require the installer to install a gas regulator first before you install the Trash-Trap.
I think the galvanized thing is "one of those things" that people talk about but there is not exact proof,reason i say this and i'm not a expert by no means is because at the moment I am replacing the gas valve on my water heater , i installed this water heater back in 2009, i found out in the last few days that the gas valves on these heaters are famous for going out due to piss poor manufacturing issues but thats another story for another day. The reason I'm bringing this up is because there was a water heater installed in my house in 1983 (way before i lived here) that i replaced in 09 with my current one and they used galvanized pipe back then and i reused the same setup in 09. This time while replacing my gas valve i decided to install a flex line and get rid of all that piping but i looked inside that pipe before i threw it out and it was pristine, that pipe might have been there before 1983 but i can't say for sure, 1983 to 2021=38 years, this would lead me to believe there is no correlation between galvanized pipe being susceptible to natural gas BUT with the quality of the stuff coming from china these days maybe the new galvanized pipe might not hold up like this good old one did.
Can the trap be made near the wall instead? Makes for a cleaner simpler install. Less rework when replacing the heater, too. The stainless flex connector is not going to rust.
Hey Tim,like that Video.good one. if you get a chance sometime tim,i would like to see a video on how you change out a residential pressure reducer.and how to locate one in the ground.usually there in the front yard, or in the ground.and in the garage.but there was one customer who lived in an associated community who had a pressure reducer in his house,but i couldn't find the damn thing.i did a water pressure test.it came out to 50 psi.,which was good.but the customer wanted a little more water pressure.like 70 psi..which i understand.he wasn't getting enough water pressure in his shower in back of the house. but i couldn't find it in the ground.i looked every where for it.again,in the garage.in between the walls of his garage.next to the waterheater.inside his house.nada.dead on arrival.it was frustrating.not only that, the customer didn't want to take a chance on me cutting up his dry wall in the garage.i told him it was "right there". right there in the garage.inbetween the wall.but no dice.i'm sure you've had that experience many times.give me some advice.bye the way, you can't detect with a metal detector brass or copper.let alone CPVC.forget it.thanxx.
I agree, the way you describe with the drip leg before the flex hose is better. Come from wall into Tee. Upper part of Tee goes to shutoff valve. Lower part of Tee creates the drip leg.
So which is it? Galvanized or black pipe? Before the flex or after it? Pipe dope or yellow tape? Above or below the source inlet? Jeez, are we hooking up a water heater or building a grand piano? Thanks for the video, Tim. After three days of flailing I watched this and I was done in an hour. And for what it's worth, the guy who works at my Home Depot here in Oregon says you nailed it. Except for the pipe dope instead of yellow tape. But we only know (and care ) about Oregon.
Should use black iron/steel pipe. The sediment trap can be before or after the flex line. The reason it’s recommended to put it before the flex line is so the next time the water heater has to be replaced you don’t have to worry about putting the sediment trap on the new water heater. It’s just there as a permanent fixture.
Hi if you replace the old tank and installing a new one do you have to replace the ( Vacuum Relief Valve) the vacuum breaker or you can the old one that is already installed on the copper hose thx
Would it be ok to remove the sediment trap cap and connect a flexible hose in order to test a gas convection oven? Or any reason that would not be ok? After the test the cap would be replaced. Thanks!
What’s code for sediment trap distance from the device. Natural gas is supposed to be corrosive in contact w/ galvanizing so I assume this is LP, or what’s the story using galvanized pipe?
Are all water heater sizing the same? Im in california and have a smaller water heater due to living in a manufactured home. How do I know what size pipe fittings to get?
@@PLUMBINGWITHTIM Thanks. This one was great video. Professionally recorded, closed and zooming for clarity when you made connections. I have watched very few videos like this in youtube channel and also no doubt great content on this subject. Now I can do this job as DIY in my home. Will watch your all videos. Thanks from Alberta, CA.
Thank you, Should you avoid getting pipe dope on the ends of the flare threads so it does not come off and enter the appliance or heater? Also is code order from wall:valve, trap then flexible hose?
In California, according to up.codes/viewer/california/ca-plumbing-code-2019/chapter/12/fuel-gas-piping#12 , "...a sediment trap shall be installed downstream of the appliance shutoff valve as close to the inlet of the appliance as practical, before the flex connector..." . The correct placement is a bit unclear in their instructions IMO. but when they say "before", I assume that is from the perspective of the appliance inlet. I'm going with Tim's installation. Makes sense to have a filter as close to the appliance as possible.
This is wrong according to uniform plumbing code,and any inspector would fail you if its directly off the gas control valve. The drip leg must be after the shut off valve with the flex going directly to the gas control valve.
Not a big deal for using galvanized other than specific jurisdictions that reqiure black pipe because there’s zero data that supports the "urban myth"......it's the same matrial with one coated with zinc and one that's not.
