How to: Jeep Wrangler Drag Link Ends 

New to the Channel, Got myself a 1989 4.2L Wrangler for my daughter and I to start a rebuild on, love the guide you provide Dale. thanks

Thanks for this educational video ...Now I know the difference between the drag link end, tie rod end and track bars...

Aye it’s @Machinshipwrld , I love your videos, not only do you cover every piece in the installations, but you go over precautions to the parts you took out in the previous videos! Never have to read between the lines! Thanks for ANOTHER amazing tutorial!

Thank you for let us know that its a specific Tie Rod! Going crazy looking for the part

Great job Dale !! Fungus is coming along really nice , can't wait until your next video. Until next time take care my friend.

Thanks, pleasure as aways.

Great video. Thank you!

I have to replace mine ends too, both drag link and tie rod.. I found the problem you had with them being seized up on the drag link rod when I replaced my steering gear box...I could only adjust the Pitmam side to align it to the new gear box., the knuckle side is unmovable (I'm sure that has to do with all the off roading and mudding...lol)... I've determined that I'm just going to upgrade (go a lil beefier) my tie rod, drag link, and install new ends on that...make it easier than fighting with it... The stock tie rod is pretty cheap tho...

Sticky tie/link ends often need heat but, after getting it pretty hot, spray some penetrant. *Note* PB blaster is over rated, try "Ultra lube" which is a plant-based lube and penetrant available at Home Depot, etc. (12oz. can for few $) that works its way into things no other penetrant would, it just may take some time (over night) to get into the threads. I had a squeaky door hinge that drove me crazy. WD40, Blaster, nothing worked. Some Ultra Lube and a couple days later (it was a tight hinge) and I suddenly realized the squeak was gone. Been my go-to since. Shoot threads where they enter the hot tube, the heat and expansion will help draw the fluid into the threads and loosen them more quickly. Tapping (not slamming) the tube with a light hammer and vibrating, before and after spraying, will help, too. The more ways you attack a problem the more likely you are to succeed. I'm impressed with the fact he uses more than one way to verify link end centers. Most people only use one method and end up on an alignment machine. As well as measuring length between tie rod/drag link end centers, count the exact number, including fractions (1/4, 1/3, 1/2, etc.) of turns it takes to remove the old rod ends. This is also a very good way to ensure the proper alignment distance and is verification to your measurement, *if* the rod ends are of same thread shaft length. If not, just measure the distance of old and new and add that difference to the length of threads you need to use. I know it sounds confusing but it's not when you get into it. I've done countless tie rod/drag link ends by this method and always right on the money when put on the alignment machine. Just remember, the more ways you have to verify a variable, the better. Use one method for a start and a second to verify and your good 99.8% pure of the time 😀 (old timers will get the Dove soap reference 😆).

Thank you! Your videos are always helpful to me. 🤙99 tj owner #JeepSolidBros4Life

Where on God's green earth did you buy the drag link ends I can't find them for my 92 yj I have ordered 3 now and they keep sending me tie rod ends please help

Where is the so munched talked about description below?

Good video. But why did they send you a tool for a late model car when you work on yjs?

Ok, what is that floating ring on the drag link end? My Jeep had one as well, but I didn't put it back on.

You need a work bench