it went all the way into, "you didn't level it while hot", "some parts are funky from the factory, cut this off", "using warped surfaces anyway, here's how", and "here's the hard way too, for my sadists"
One thing that is working for me is a magnetic machinists dial gauge. I do the paper thing on the top right corner, then crank in +50 mm on Z and attach the dial gauge - then zero the dial. You can scoot this all over the print surface and see exactly how many thousandths off it is everywhere. Super easy to adjust the other knobs as you can watch it on the dial. One other tip ( I know it seems stupid obvious) is to make sure that the nozzle is absolutely clean when you do the feeler gauge thing. If you have a little blob of plastic sticking out, it will throw the measurements off.
OMG, your my hero! This is the best bed leveling tutorial I've seen yet. I've been looking for this since I got my Creality CR-10 V2. My printer won't stay level for more than 1 print. I got the BL touch thinking that would fix my problem but no...
Same here i have ender 3. But I think I need to upgrade springs to yellow ones. BTW were you able to fix the problem by now? or any tips that works for you?
Amazing video, truly many lessons i learned and had learned through painful prints. For the longest time i wanted to return my printer because of how warped my bed was but didnt (mostly because it was my baby) and just had to level on the fly and after every print. Even removing the magnetic plate a little too roughly could create a lot of problems. I wish i knew about mesh layering. Thank you and again, great video.
Here's what I know. Fact: low-end 3D printers are not equipped to know when the nozzle is too close or too far from the bed. That's why BL Touch found a niche in the 3D printing market place. I don't know much about high-end 3D printers. I know I can't afford one. So, I'm stuck with a low-end printer that's flawed as far as I'm concerned. It gets me wondering. Aren't we in 2021 when all that's technological is supposed to be at its peak. We can build 2-wheeled robots that balance themselves on 2 wheels, but no's come up with a 3D printer whose bed remains level and do this at low cost!
Hi Julian, thank you for the tip. We made one a long time ago which explains that but we plan on making a new one and with more information soon. In the meantime, you can check the video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZfqeTzc3NpM.html
You don’t need to break the end stop support. There is a software method to adjust the end stops. Adjust the “Babystep Z” and then “Store settings”. That sets the “zero” for the end stop. So the software knows how much to compensate when the limit switch triggers. Otherwise, great video. You explain things very well. Thanks for putting them out!
Hi Timothy, thanks for your comment. The purpose of breaking the small piece on the endstop support is to allow the X gantry to go down further than what the endstop would normally allow. This way you can compress the bed springs a bit more and give more stability to the bed. Your method works but only for small adjustments. For bigger adjustments you need to move the endstop down or the X grantry will crash on the endstop.
Surely Baby Steps are only available on the Ender 3 in the "Tune" menu which in turn is only available while actually printing. It is not a method for setting Z height gap.
Great video. Do you have a video which explains in more details how to upload this changes in the software onto the printer. Do I need a cable or just an sd card would do?
this is the best explenaton for all of the bed leveling videos! i just have a problem the nozzle on the first layer is higher so it doesn't stick to bed, if babay stepped it down, than the next layer will be too close.. how to make the first layer exactly like all other layers ? Thanks! :)
Hi, thanks for the comment. Regarding the babysteps, probably you have the babysteps steps too high. You can edit the firmware to lower the babysteps increment value.
Thank you for detailed explanations and step by step tutorials. My problem is, that I can't adjust Bed Z during a print. It just doesn't change anything, -750 or + 750 - the nozzle neither lowers nor raises, so I don't know on how to do something from the Prusa printers is known as Live Z Adjustment.
Hi Jim, if you have the babysteps feature enabled in your (Marlin) firmware, you should have it available in the tune menu while printing. The babysteps feature is the same as the live Z adjustment used in the prusa printers.
To level the bed, I believe Creality tells us to home the hot end, then disable the stepper motors to move from corner to corner and raise or lower these as needed. Problem is, when I follow this procedure I can never get the bed level the first time. It was infuriating. Then, I read an article someone wrote on the net. He said to stop using disable stepper motors. So, to move from corner to corner, I had to use the Move command. Doing it this way, I was able to level my bed the first time around! My print is perfect.
I don't believe it is possible to level the bed "first time" because each adjustment of a wheel will affect the height of the bed at the diagonally opposite corner. So you need to go around the bed several times, each correction getting smaller as you go. The solution to this nonsense is to upgrade to a 3 point bed suspension, then you really can get it correct first time. I did that and it is a much better setup altogether.
@@kencroft7933 These type of 3D printers have a serious design flaw. I just watched a video about 3-point bed suspensions by Chep on RU-vid. Your mentioning it was the first time I'd heard about it. I can't understand how this mechanism might help though. Forgive me for saying this, but isn't it just another part replacement claimed by some to be better than the stock part. I am, however, inclined to say that the bed mechanism on my Ender 3 V2 3D printer needs improvement or modification. If bed stability was an issue, why did Creality opt for a single centered rail bed support. It doesn't make much sense, because it clearly adds more instability to bed-levelling. Bed-levelling is a frustrating necessity(?) I could do without. The BL Touch was not much help either. Which brings me to the following questions. If the gantry and bed were perfectly parallel, or as close to it as is possible, and ignoring the possibility that a build plate might be warped, why is bed-levelling necessary at all? If the gantry is "perfectly" straight and the build plate is "perfectly" flat, couldn't wobble side-to-side or up and down, would you still need to level the bed? I don't think so, because the nozzle would never be lower or higher to the set position. It would remain at the same height, no? What do you think?
Thanks for the video. I have a question. I'm using the newest TH3D Unified 2 firmware (based on Marlin), version 2.12b. It doesn't have the 'Fade Height' option. Not sure if it's set somewhere else or baked in. Appreciate any guidance. Thanks.
I was told to use a 0.18 mm feeler gauge to get a perfect first layer. So has anyone got and opinion of 0.1 vs 0.18? Lets face it feeling the right amount of drag is pretty subjective.
Hey Rui! I'm having a little trouble. Unfortunately they've made some changes in the Ender Pro v2 that make enabling this harder. Could you provide a couple tips on the changes needed to do this on a v2?
Hi, you can enable the manual mesh leveling on the V2 but you will not have the menus on the display. To trigger the leveling you need to use the PC and send G29 commands.
4:42 So let me get this straight. Are you saying, for example, that if my first layer is .15 mm and I use a piece of paper or something like a feeler gauge of .1 mm, the overall gap should be .25 mm?
Whatever oil on my bed wouldn't come off with 99% iso. I used palmolive and meyers scrub (bonami) on my glass bed. I think it was coming from the silicone boot or something else on the hot end. Months later the boot is all dried and cracking and the prob is gone
Great explanation. How did you get the "Edit Mesh" option in the Motion menu? I'm using manual mesh leveling in Marlin 2.0.7 - but for manual correction of the z distance of the different points I have to enter gcode via Octoprint/Pronterface for every single point (M421 IX JY Q-0.0X). A graphical interface would be awesome and "Edit Mesh" sounds like it, but I can't find any reference in Marlin documentation.
I have a sunlu s9 plus comes with abl but is not accurate, I want mesh leveling, is there a way that I can add manual mesh leveling and still have but not use abl?
I have a Geeetech A20 with a glass removable bed. However, whatever I try, I cannot level the bed. I have tried it following many videos from RU-vid for using the BL Touch and Z Offset, and cannot get a sensible print, where it is stringy and will not stick to the glass. So I try the paper method in each corner, and get the same output, stringy and will not stick to the glass. Also I have upgraded the firmware to the Mega2560, and still not making any difference with the print. What and where do I do next??
Even though my Tronxy X5SA has auto leveling and 6 bed adjustment hand knobs and manual leveling too, It is a total pain to get the bed leveled to the 0.8 and below height over the bed the system needs? This video I hope will make it easier? Thank you.
@ruiraptor What is the best practice (or video) to set where the Ender 3 Pro Auto Home should ideally be? I.e. 0,0,0 lower left corner of bed? Or in the center of the bed? How do you do that? Do you have a easy Z offset video?
Hi, the problem is getting the manual leveling menu on the display. For some reason, the compilation fails when enabling this. We need a bit more time to study this.
@@ruiraptor Many thanks.. I installed a BL Touch but this too isn't working properly on mine and I have no idea why... I disabled it and went back to stock version since it works well as it is out of the box.. Cheers
I’m having a problem with printing a round surface and makes like a tic tic noise but when I adjust it still there and it only for round surfaces please help discord isn’t helping
Hi Sam, yes, it's possible to have the manual mesh to work on the Ender 3 V2. However, for the V2 it's not yet possible to have the menus on this display. The commands need to be sent though pronterface or any other interface.
Actually even the creapy board of the ender 3 has an unused pin (Pin29) - but you have to solder it in yourself. Of course you can also use the more commonly known Pin27 if your not comfortable to solder (there are adapters to get the signal). With one of these pins set as probe input and a ground pin, you can add a dupond cable and a film probe (made a video, but for the Sidewinder and german only. But maybe the pictures help to understand what I mean: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MPyGt6gpSv8.html ). The sensor only is less than $2, including an LED about $4. It is like a mix between ABL with permanent mounted sensor and an manual mesh. You heat the bed, but nozzle has to keep cool. Than you start the bed leveling. After it is ready you remove the sensor. You will need to adjust the z-offset of course. It is much cheaper than an permanent ABL-sensor and much more comfotable than doing an manual mesh. Sometimes the mash seems not to be loaded or activated after a reset. So adding an M420 S after homing in start gcode does not hurt....
can yo help me.. why if shut ON my printer and mesh bed leveling has been RESET and i must be Mesh Bed Level again after ON my printer. my setting Mesh Bed leveling cant save, i use STORE SETTING in menu BED LEVELING cant save setting and After ON my printer the setting reset again. please someone can help me. thanks
Unfortunately, Manual Mesh Bed Leveling won't work on the Ender 3 V2... You can't enable #define LCD_bed_leveling without getting compiling Errors, because you need a programmable LCD Controller. The E3 V2 has a DWIN_CREALITY_LCD. This LCD is smart, It gets told what to display when via simple serial commands. But it has limits you cannot directly control what the pixels are doing. If you have any solution I would GREATLY appreciate it. Your videos are awesome. Thx.
Hi, you are correct, unfortunately the Ender 3 V2 display does not allow the manual mesh LCD menus to be enabled. You can try enabling the manual mesh leveling without the LCD menu and send the commands by proterface instead. Here are the instructions with and without LCD ( marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html )
Hi Thomas, is the screw also spinning or it's only the knob that is completly loose? If it's loose, then you need to keep turning until it starts compressing the spring.
The knob still spins even If I hold screw from spinning! The knob just spins and goes no where.... Got it off! Have to get some small m4 screw to keep the screws from spinning.
it will be fine, your bed will not be damaged, a tigher tensioned spring is less likely to shift around. If you dont have a form of auto bed leveling like a bltouch, your gonna need to tweak around the z endstop
Hi Tiago, you can enable the manual mesh leveling on the V2 but you will not have the menus on the display. To trigger the leveling you need to use the PC and send G29 commands.
@ruiraptor oh ok, thank you, so I have to do everything from 7:15 to 8:55, because after is everything from the screen menu that I will not have, right? and after that I just put the micro SD card and he will boot the codes? Because I don't have the leveling part, or I have to connect pc and send the codes directly from my pc? Thanks a lot for your time man ❤️ really appreciate
Hi Tiago, for the firmware update, please check our other video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y87P7K5DTMU.html Regarding the procedure for the manual mesh leveling, here is additional information from Marlin on this: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html and marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html
but, on ender 3 v2, the dwin lcd controller doesn't support lcd_bed_leveling, i get compiler errors if this option is enabled when using an ender 3 v2 config. any alternative option for me?
I tried to enable this mesh bed leveling on my ender 3 v2, but it says “LCD_BED_LEVELING, requires a programmable LCD controller.” Did I do something wrong?
This new display of the Ender 3 V2 is not as "flexible" as the other ones in terms of programming. Having said, it's not yet possible to enable the manual mesh leveling with the display menu included.
@@ruiraptor Ok thanks, I was able to get your bed level g-code to work on the Ender 3 v2, once I enabled the nozzle park and the advance pause feature.
i have found it i think need a hand here pls.. i setup the bed level.. but everytime i start a new print it just resets it and lose it i have tryed it.. i make it again and again it lose it everytime so every print starts without a bed level :(
