A not so quick webinar with the boys from Thunder, discussing Lightburn upcoming side by side photo editing, Lightburn processing options and some tips and tricks to getting the best result
wow. went way into the weeds at 9 min. and stayed there for a good 7 min. omg blah blah blah.. and then finally stuck with Jarvis!!! Ok. I gave up at 19 min. Thanks anyway guys.
Thanks for this video, Please can you do a video explaining what these settings do & mean and also on the Shape properties. Not a discussion as there too much-jumping around etc . Once again thanks for your time and awesome work. Lightburn is awesome and can not wait for the new release , that looks good
Nice job. Lightburn is such an awesome piece of software. It can be confusing at times (burning as a whole, lol) it's best to play with the settings and log your jobs so you can create a materials database. It'll be time-consuming at first, but in the end, you will have a goto chart so you can get instant results. My experience with photos is, no matter how perfect one photo is, the same settings might not work for the next photo - so it really is about having a starting point and tweaking..
Great video. I save it as a resource to watch again in the future. Chris does a great job explaining Lightburn, but the other guy (not Grant) keeps interrupting him. I found that to be distracting from the content of the video.
Thank you for the video, in the future can you actually explain what type of look that you are trying to achieve by manipulating these sliders and the values? I think for the most part most people get really confused about what each of those things do because there's just a lot of sliders going back and forth but no one really explains the actual look that you're trying to achieve prior to sending that information to the laser. I have been trying to produce a laser engraved photo I've had some success but it's not consistent for the most part I experience the "curtain" effect that you mentioned where it just seems like it was just burning the wood I think maybe I need to step my speed up I was normally doing 100 to 130 MMS, according to you I should speed the machine up ..... Again thank you for the video!!
What video are you referring to on "Fine Tuning" an image for lightburn? I have photoshop and would like to learn how to do that so that I can just import or open with lightburn.
A discussion/explanation of what each of the shape properties do and what affect adjustments to these properties will have on photos would be very helpful!
You all probably dont care but does anybody know a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Armani Zayne i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hi guys, nice video. I owned an Epilog 30w way back in the early 2000's and the tube went bad a few years later and they wanted $3500, so I gave it up until now, Bought a 60w thunderlaser. Anyway, used to do loads of black marble photo engravings and used the spectacle software at that time, which was Photograv. So here I am in this truly integrated environment and enjoying every bit of the learning process but @ 71 years young I need a nap after 2 hours learning new things LOL. Anyway had a couple of questions. 1. Was the photo you imported originally color? If not, what was your process for B&w conversion? I want to continue with the black marble and black granite depending on the outcome so just trying to get to the point I can actually do my first try. Thanks guys I have a 60w if you are interested in providing me your guesses with the Jarvis method as to speed and power. Thanks again for your time ..... Bob
You can import the photo into LightBurn without converting to grayscale. Lightburn will do the rest. All major edits like background removal and heavy retouching need to be done in an outside program like photoshop.
Hi, Thanks for the video, What I would like to ask is, do you really use speed of 10 (mm/sec or in/sec)? And your MAX power is 14%? Both of them for a photo? If I will use it on wood, it will burn all of it in black, no? I will appreciate your answer. Thanks again.
Thank you for the Videos, im learning and getting familiar with what this program is capable of doing. i have one question ? in what instance would one use Negative Image Option. Thanks
Usually, a negative image is used on the backside of glass or acrylic. When it's viewed from the front, it will look normal. Also, if you paint tiles black, you would use a negative image to get the proper effect (used a lot with multiple colors, on canvases, mirrors, glass, etc...)
Hi, I have a Ortur LM2 PRO 0 watts laser, but as adviced by the Ortur support I cannot cut 6mm plywood and acerlric even with 6 passes,Anyone can advice me on this, or suggest a better CNC cutter which can even cut plywood upto 10mm> Thanks in advance Nicholas.
i have the same laser engraver, (10 watt I assume) cutting 6mm birch ply takes a few passes, I set it to 4 passes, let it rest to cool for a couple minutes and do it again two more times, to cut wood that thick and more you really need a 40 watt machine for a single pass (I don't have $2k+ to spend) if you want high production.