This was beautifully clear. I’ve not lined trousers before, am I to assume that the same process also applies to the back sections of the trousers please? Thanks
Thank you! I am happy I could help) I don`t line the back panel in menswear garments, but the principle is the same. I would just pay more attention to distributing the lining`s ease on the inside seam of the back panel, because this part moves and 'bounces' a lot.
A useful tip is to ensure the front pockets hang between the outer fabric & the lining as it is a sign or quality, it looks more professional too. The lining can then stop the pocket bags from rubbing against your thigh when wallking along. I added a Half-lining to my Boiler Suit for winter use, and checked that the front pockets hung between the outer & lining layers for better comfort & a tidy look too.
Hi, great comment. If we are talking about casual or designer clothes, you can go crazy with various techniques. Pockets sandwiched between the lining and the top fabric is an interesting concept and harder to execute? - Definitely. Is it more professional? - I doubt it. Classic tailoring has its own rules and techniques regarding the order of assembly and finishing, so it will not work in this case.
This is so clearly explained and super helpful! Thank you! And I do have a question. Is there a better way to prevent the upper thigh area wearing out or pulling? I’ve heard tailors putting a saddle (not exactly sure what it is) or a triangular shape of lining on the crotch seam. Will that work?
Hi! Thank you for watching and I`m glad you enjoyed it. Subscrive for more trousermaking content that is coming soon. ;) Regarding your question: there are severeal ways of reinforcing a trouser crotch. First one: I put a piece of non-fusible interfacing covering whole crotch edge on the fronts, then the lining covers it. I added this method to my course. Some people just fuse this part, but I don`t like it. Non-fusible interfacing gives more flexibility and doesn`t shrink the fabric. Then, when the trousers are almost finished: you are right, a saddle goes in. It can be made of lining but I use pocketing fabric that was used during the manufacturing of the particular pair. A saddle basically covers the area where crotchseam, backseam and inseams come together. This "knot" doesn`t look good, so it is covered with a saddle, plus it also prevents this part from ruining, because this area apparently gets a lot of friction. :) But all these methods only prevent trousers from ruining on the inside. Some people have full hips and over the time they can make a hole on the innner side of the leg even in jeans. So, in this case, if you are making a suit for such client: offer him two pairs of trousers and one jacket.
Thanks for this video. Can you tell me why you added a fold in the fabric before you started cutting out the lining? It is in the crotch area. Also can you just now sew the legs together after the lining and the fabric are together? Thanks again
Thank you for watching and your question. This little fold on the lining is optional. It may prevent the cloth from pulling and gives extra fullness. You can skip this part if you are already experienced in setting in the lining and also on some thin fabrics it may leave an imprint after pressing. I don`t quite understand the second question but I`ll try to answer. :)) After this step you have to make: side pockets and a fly. And then, yes, you may connect side seams.
Thank you! Yeah, it does a little of course (because it is basically a raw edge) but not too much. If trousers aren`t worn, like, every day non-stop and also taken care of in drycleaners (not the washing machine :) ) the lining will be okay.
So, the pleat is optional, latley I rarely use it, especially on thin fabrics. Its idea to give the lining some extra volume & movement to prevent the inseam from pulling. If you have added sufficient amount of ease, you may skip this part. The main goal of lining is preventing delicate cloths (wool, linen etc) from deformation at the knee area. You see, our body produces some heat and moisture + if a knee rubs directly against the cloth, over the time the fibers will deform and relax, ruining the trousers eventually. So, technically lining absorbes that friction and the upper cloth slides over it keeping the initial shape of trouser fronts.
Hi! Thanks for the video! I have a question tho- since I'm putting the lining why not just assemble lining pieces and then trouser pieces following all of these steps except overlocking them together ? I don't really like the idea of having both lining and overlock, it seems redundant, and I thinks it's possible to avoid overlock completely. Is there any specific reason why overlocking them together would be better option than without? Many thanks!
@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR Hey thanks for the reply! Well, im still learning all of this but in my mind overlocking is a type of finishing and lining, apart from few other beneficial aspects, is also a type of finishing/ protecting unfinished edges, so if i put a lining i would consider overlocking an extra step thats not necessary. Another thing is also the aesthetic of the garment, because lining is very elegant/expensive finishing and overlock very casual. I think my question was mostly due to the fact that in your assembly you use lining but allow overlock to be seen, and id rather hide it... :)
@@mikka9272 ah, I get it then. In this case you may use the bias binding instead of overlocker. But in my opinion finishing trouser edges with bias binding looks great but not always practical. Some cloths with high Super numbers, are quite fine, light and delicate and bias banding may bulk up the edges and then leave the imprint after ironing. So, overcasting with a special fine texturized overlocking thread could be a better option in most cases.
This little pleat on the lining is optional. It may prevent the cloth from pulling and gives extra fullness and movement, for example on close fitted trousers. You can skip this part if: a) you are already experienced in setting in the lining b) you are sure that decent amount of ease has been added to the lining c) if trousers are more classical and loose fitted (for example wider, pleated options with more room)
Basically the lining absorbs the friction at the knee area and prevents the front panel from stretching (because of the knee movement and heat & moisture that body produces). If woolen fibers are stretched it is almost imposiible to get them back into shape.
This is so well explained! I also followed you on IG! One question: why is the lining so short? Is it not supposed to be below the knees or all the way down to the ankles? Thanks!
Thank you! It is usually around ~18-20 cm below the knee marking, so it is enough since the knee cap meets the knee position and there is sufficient lining to do the job which is to protect the cloth from stretching. You may do it longer or all the way, it is completely up to you. 👍🏻 Just, what is the purpose of lining at the ankle?
@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR I thought lining is usually to stop the itchy fabric from touching the skin or prevent static, so all the way made sense to me. But I might be wrong! In your professional work, lining all the way is something you see often, or not so much? Thanks again!
@@darziyaana In a way yes, the lining is to prevent the body rubbing against the cloth. Nowadays high quality wools are so fine and tender, so they are not itchy at all, in my opinion. If the main cloth or\and the lining have synthetic fibers in them, you will be able to power up a small city with electricity while moving, so the lining itslef can do nothing to prevent it 😃 If your cloths are of natural fibers, for example 100% woolen trousers or lets say a waistcoat, with viscose lining, you`ll be fine. As I have already mentioned, modern suitings are fine and delicate, so the lining on trousers prevents the fibers from deformation. Throught the day our body produces heat & moisture that affect the cloth (like a small iron). So, giving all that if a knee constantly rubs against the trouser cloth pretty soon you will get a bulb at the knee area and you can do nothing to fix it, fibers are already streched. That is why we are covering the knee with lining so it gets all rubbing, but the upper cloth just slides over it without being deformed.
@@shop_withsteph5340 In this case, yeah, sometimes it is a solution, But, I don`t like it. I always choose fabric of a certain weight from a cloth bunch, together with a client, to avoid "transparency". And I rarely take a cloth that client brings from elsewhere.
