I’ve been hauling bikes for almost 20 years now and through my own trial and error, I agree with everything you’ve mentioned except for the straps. I’ve found the power tye brand are the best (for me). They’re similar to the pro tapers but the hooks have a spring gate on them which gives extra peace of mind and prevents them from falling out of the hooks in the bed when loading. Keep up the great vids!
Simple hack for a bike load or long or short move, rent a small U-Haul with a pull out loading ramp for around $30 to $50, there's a set of rails on both sides for tie down.
At 68 yo I’ve loaded dirt and street bikes hundreds of times. I’ve seen your strap type come loose even after being tied as you did. For many years it was the only strap sold. Ratchet straps work very well. If rear wheel moves left or right the front strap is now loose on one side. Even you said if bike comes loose stop and retighten. Rear not tied? You can drive as easy as you want but in a accident your bike easily comes out of truck bed as bike is not tied to truck at any point. Your front wheel chalk did not appear to be tied or bolted to truck. Haven’t lost a bike yet? Hard maneuver and you will. I have professional load tie down training on many things that a vehicle could ever move. I thank the US Army. Ride safe.
The straps are pulling the bike forward and down into the chock, where could it possibly go? All the force is pushing it into the lower front corner of the bed. If you really want to have a loading system that can handle a major crash, you're not going to be using straps anymore but a hard bracket that attaches to the trailer floor or truck bed. PitBull stands makes one that I've seen hold a bike in place with a flipped trailer - of course this means drilling holes in your truck and mounting the receiver plate, which is probably more than most people are willing to do for the occasional transport needs.
I would agree with you on using ratchet straps as they will never slip. All straps will stretch after a few miles of driving and need to be tightened. I use a front wheel chock bolted to the floor of my enclosed trailer but it does nothing to keep the rear wheel from hopping around so I also strap the rear wheel from both sides or the rear frame. I also see no reason not to use two parallel ramps to load and unload as you can walk on the other ramp, keeping you at the same level as your bike.
My wife drives a Tacoma, it’s def a great truck for a girl. 😊. Thanks for the helpful video, I have a street glide and want to be able to haul it in my Silverado, this helps. Esp didn’t appreciate that ratchet straps weren’t best option.
A very Good Video .... only a couple of comments Comment #1.... Cam straps are certainly not the only method for securing loads, as a mater of fact, some states still require loads to be secured by chain and bucking dog, or turn buckle. In the old days we didn't have ratchet or cam straps, so we usually used rope and chain and or a come along to secure loads. Make sure to check with your respective state concerning the securing of loads. Folks tend to take securing loads for granted, until the point where they are engaged by the DOT......... I do agree that a front tire securing device, makes hauling a motorcycle a much better experience. Pay attention to state regulations relative to securing loads. Comment #2 If a pickup truck is the only method you have for hauling your motorcycle, be aware that the tail gate cannot be locked into place, therefore, always expect the the motorcycle to jounce about, as you engage undulating terrain...... Personally..... I would opt for a trailer if it were available. simply because most today, have a rear gate which pins in place... Secondly because most allow for the load to be secured to a solid surface which does not flex like a tail gate.
I use two ramps spaced a couple feet apart because I often can not reduce the bed height and it's a pretty big two steps to get to the bed of my full sized truck, walking a ramp feels less risky to me and I can stay at the same level as the bars so I don't need to adjust reach to keep the bars level. Having space between the ramps gives me more leverage if the bike starts leaning (I walk up one ramp as the bike walks up the other). Other than that I follow the same procedure pretty much exactly and I'd double emphasize that smooth power input is very important. Make sure you have practiced managing the clutch for super controlled low power input. I use a Black Widow Pro Chock because it is probably as strong a chock you're going to find that doesn't need to be bolted into the bed. Only use as much throttle as needed to prevent stalling... I do strap the back wheel as an emergency strap in case something unforeseen happens in the front. All this stuff is really pretty easy on my relatively light 701... but with the over 500lb Multistrada it's really important to get it right.
Two ramps, walk it up in first gear is how I’ve been loading motocross bikes into pickups since I was 13 years old. 11 years later and not one issue loading bikes solo.
My sales guy delivered my motorcycle in the exact same strap down method you use... He's been transporting bikes for 30 years. Really great video, happy 4th my friend
I attended ChampSchool with my ZX14R last year and transported it on a U-Haul bike trailer and used a Baxley Sport Chock. I knew NOTHING about tying the bike down at all so even though I used straps, I didn't cinch them down (will not make that mistake again, thanks for the tips here!). On the way home after day 2, I hit a massive pothole while going 70+ on the highway...despite a seat belt, I was violently thrown up in the seat. In the rearview mirror, I saw the massive bike jump in place too but stay vertical. Got home and saw that the straps were completely loose with 1 ft+ of slack, but the bike was sitting SOLID in the Baxley. That chock saved my bike. If it can hang on to a 570+ lb bike after the kind of hit the truck took on the road, it will hang on to any bike through anything. I still can't believe it.
You are not wrong. Those Baxleys aren't cheap, but I've seen them do amazing things! Compared to your bike falling over, that Baxley was exactly cheap!
@@CanyonChasers Indeed! I accidentally tipped that bike over in the garage 2 years ago while it was on the side stand. It was new. All fairings on one side, a new gas tank, one mirror and one blinker housing were ~$3K in parts. I bought the Baxley after fixing the bike so it can be locked in when I slip the paddock stand in. Not having that chock that day in the trailer would've damaged the bike all over again. So knowing what I know now about Baxley, I would've gladly paid 5x the MSRP for it. It is dirt cheap for what it prevents. That's the lesson I hope viewers get from your video....basic precautions and quality products are worth more than the time it takes to deploy them and their $ cost.
Thanks for the mention of keeping tied down bike in neutral. Makes sense to save possible impacts to gears. Also love the suggestion to put front tires up on curb to lower tailgate height! Big fan of all your instructional vids, thanks again!!!!
Another excellent video w/some solid tips! One thing, ratchet straps can indeed be released gradually once you learn how. First open the top lever about 3/4 of the way, then release it's "clutch" and put a bit tension into the mechanism with the top / outer lever. With tension now in the top lever you can release the lower/inner ratchet and slowly back the strap out. Repeat until there is slack in the strap. It's a little hard to explain but if you play with it, it'll become clear. I've been in situations where all I had was ratchets and this technique makes all the difference. And agreed you have to be careful about over tightening and blowing for seals etc.
When I’m backing my bike out of the cabin (which is uphill) I put the bike in first gear and use the clutch to control the descent. That way if you let go, the default is to stop rather than the default being to keep going.
I hope so too! The way we see bikes tied down at track day is always a bit alarming! And there was that one guy that almost launched himself into low orbit riding his GS into the back of his RAM 2500.
Great video Dave. A related tip is that if your bike is huge and you are small, there's nothing wrong with backing down the ramp using the clutch friction zone as a brake (engine off). My Victory Vision is too big for me to balance and reach across to the front brake. 👍
Great video. I've just purchased a new motorcycle and was tossing up whether or not to have it professionally transported. You've convinced me I can load it into my ute and save 300 bucks - good one!
I love the fact that you used metric to lead off the truck bed height and included the infographic for imperial. It is the better system by far and I've been ditching freedom units over the last few years. Just thought that was a nice touch lol.
Interesting on the cinch straps and the knot to keep them from moving. I've always used rachet straps and cinch straps. The cinch to get it stable and the rachet to lock it down Take the racket strap off first and it doesn't pop too crazy because the cinch is holding the bike.
Good to know! I’m attending the Champs class in SC in a little over a week and I’m super nervous about hauling my Strom again. When I brought it home, I had it loaded on a hitch carrier rated @500lbs tied down with… ratchet straps… (please don’t yell at me) Hitch carrier is currently for sale with a *slightly* buckled ramp (only used once!). U-Haul motorcycle trailer is reserved and the Pro Tapers should arrive tomorrow. Thank you!
@@CanyonChasers Champ Street was INCREDIBLE!! Some seriously life saving education! I've never had my bike leaned over that far and felt so in control. I'm practicing what I was taught and I feel so in tune with my bike now, its just mind-blowing! I plan to take the two day class next year, those two-up rides look absolutely terrifying and I can't wait to give it a go. Also, I LOVE those Pro-Taper straps. They'll be staying in my panniers from now on.
only time i would use ratcheting straps is if I didnt have a chock at the front. my experience with straps that hold onto the grips...dont use them. had a rear tire blow out (in a parking lot thank goodness) and the tow guy used straps on the grips and it ruined the throttle tube by digging a notch into it by pressing it into the metal bar downward. Ended up having to replace the tube and housing. consider using ratcheting straps if your bike weighs over 5-600lbs as those other designs may come loose while transporting..having to slam on your brakes in a emergency or swerve may cause the bike to fall. love the video!!
I agree with you, I have a couple of Canyon Dancers that tie down from the grips and the only times I've used them caused damage to either the grip, throttle tube, or control clusters. I use the same ProTaper straps as in the video and will never go back to tie downs on the bars.
Great video. +1 on Ready Ramps. And good tip on tying down the ramp, my first time transporting a bike, the rear tire kicked out the ramp when it was still half off the tailgate. Luckily, the guy I was buying the FZ1 from and I were able to he-man it the rest of the way.
Interesting. I would probably have to modify some of this if I were to try and transport my Goldwing, I would be concerned about the weight on the tailgate. I probably would always think a tow truck would be better for a heavy touring style bike. This would probably work okay for my Africa Twin.
I use two Big Boy folding ramps to walk the bike up/down in/out of the bed of my F150. I also use two metal bars that lock into the tailgate latches to support the weight of the bike as I load/unload.
Quite timely! Just bought my Z400 200 miles away, and will be hauling it home in 2 weeks. Going to pick up a wheel chalk tomorrow. Not using a pickup, but rented a trailer for it, and installing a hitch on a buddy's Honda Pilot. Good info on not using the stand. I had initially considered just leaving it on the stand, and strapping it down. Glad to know that my intuition was correct that it would just be safer to spend the money now on a chalk.
Your videos are full of technical content, the major reason I watch your channel, (subscribed too). If it’s not too much beneath you, how about a video on loading a trailer? I’d like to hear / see your observations.
Interesting and valuable topic to discuss. My pick up has a canopy/cap and the bed is full of tools etc so it is always a trailer. But apparently my strapping technique is a fail. The roads and highways in Canada are always bumpy and rough with dips and rises so I have to strap all 4 corners or even at "mellow" speeds the bike will move all over the place. My street bikes have fairings so no triple clamp access so for front handle bar it is. Because of the bumpy roads if bike not cinched down tight bike suspension will compress so straps go slack and bike flops around. So I use ratchet straps. No blown fork seals yet but I will give that some thought. I trailer cross country and never need to redo my straps. Good chocks make all the difference for sure.
I can access the lower triples on both my sport bikes, but for sure that may not work on all sport bike. We adore Canada, but yeah, the frost swells up there can get really exciting.
We have four faired motorcycles and can get straps on the lower triple on all of them - this includes a Multistrada, R3, R6, and an old VFR800 with very chunky fairings. It can be a pain to get a hand in there, but I've never seen a faired bike you can't get straps on. If you are worried about the hook touching the fender, you can always add a soft-tie-down to the triple first and then loop the strap through that to move the hook a little farther down.
Dude, you and Ryan F9 are the only two channels I subscribe to, first and foremost because of the content, but a nice bonus is that you actually use metric, which is a pleasant surprise. How so?
Well first, thank you! Second, when we look at our analytics, the vast majority of our users are on the metric system, so it makes sense to communicate on terms with most of our viewers. Thirdly, in the military (the american military) we used the metric system, so I learned at an early age that its nothing to be afraid of and it makes way more sense than measurments based on the physical dimensions of kings.
Is it just me, or has F9's content gone down hill recently? He used to do some pretty good stuff, but the last several months he seems to be phoning it in.
Good video, valuable information for lighter bikes. For the larger cruiser types that weigh 800 + pounds, there are ways to load them into the rear of a full size pickup, but this is not one of them! This is far too risky. One slip and you are likely going to be seriously injured or worse.
I don't know the road rules where you are but in my town both parking with your rear wheels in the gutter and parking with your front end up on the pavement are likely to see the vehicle pick up a parking notice if spotted. In my previous job most of my colleagues road and loaded their farm bikes into the bed of their utes to get them to the destination, they built a mound in the yard, reversed the ute to the mound, dropped the tail gate and simply rolled the bike from the mound into the ute. They did need to take a ramp with them to their destination.
It's not as easy, but it can be done. Getting the load height as low as possible helps the most, but at 1,000# you may be exceeding the load limits of many midsize trucks. A $20 bike trailer rental from UHaul would probably be a better bet - built in wheel chock, super low deck height, and a full width ramp. I'd pay the small price for the convenience.
@@peterbergeris6510 You may have missed the part about that causing damage to the bike and the truck. Many bikes have the side stand mounted directly to the aluminum engine case, hit a bump wrong and you are shopping for a new motor - and the bike has tipped over, damaging both it and your expensive truck.
Don’t leave the straps loose enough for suspension movement. Get a suspension stopper and cinch it tight. When the suspensions compresses the straps become loose and that’s when your bike will come loose. Also, just strap the rear wheel down, it helps
I have a Ford Maverick and a Ducati Panigale. Im trying to make these two work. Whats the best way to go about this?? When i measured the bike vs the bed length the tire would be hanging out the bed of the truck with the bed door down if i try to fit the bike in straight. I have a wheel choke and a bed extender.. I could put the bike in at an angle but i wouldnt be able to use the front tire wheel choke. any suggestions???
Because they release instantaneously, and people tend to crank them down way tighter than they should. The primary cause of motorcycycle damage during transport is ratchet straps.
When I load my bike in the back of the truck or trailer I always use ratchet straps some times doubled up.... and i compress the forks completely YOU WILL NOT dammage the fork shocks ! that is a myth ! my 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750 came home through 75 miles of twisty bumpy back roads this way and the forks are still good.... no leaks or anything if you do Not compress the forks all the way the bike can come loose ...I have seen this too many times.... think about it..... if you could damage your shocks by bottoming them out they would already be damaged ! strapping them down all the way to where the front tire is flexing is great.... it will stay there !.... yes the triple trees is the best place to pull from but I frequently use the handle bar's at the base.... Just get GOOD ratchet straps not the 800lb ones their not strong enough !
I've always been too nervous of the tailgate load rating for this so it goes in on an angle. On a big bump, the weight can triple or more and those tailgate straps are not failproof - but that's me. +1 on Pro Taper.
I've never seen a tailgate bend from transport. I've seen them bend during loading (some modern tailgates are crazy flimsy). I've also seen more bikes tip over from being loaded on an angle than I've seen bent tailgates.
What truck do you have? Most full size trucks and even midsize have tailgates strong enough to carry load. Others that have known flimsy tailgates can be reinforced with aftermarket kits.
@@BlindIo42 It's a 2017 Nissan Frontier - suggested is 300lbs I believe - that's enough but if you hit a big bump, the shock load can exceed that. They can bend at the hinges as well as fail at the straps. It's not super common but it can happen and I live in a world of big-ass potholes. I'm probably overthinking it.
I don't know if are overthinking it as much as striving to be informed. GenII Tacoma tailgates would bend when people sat on them. The new tailgates with that wing-thing are going to be quite a bit stronger just with those extra bends. Of course there are always companies making tailgate reinforcement plates for trucks with known weak gates.
@@tinymotogarage I have the SUV equivalent of the Xterra and have been pretty plugged into the Nissan community - I've never seen a broken tailgate that wasn't severely overloaded - like "someone dropped a pallet onto the edge" level of overloaded. Generally the Nissan tailgates are pretty strong, but you can always add a stiffening plate to better distribute the load if you're worried about it.
The bike is tied to the truck, not the wheel chalk. The chalk is effectively locked to the bike, and served just to hold the bike upright before the straps are attached to the bike/truck.
Does the hf chock need to be mounted to the truck bed or thick plywood? Or is that un necessary? Just bought one and about to haul it 200 miles. Great video though.
unecessary. All the thing is doing is holding the bike upright until you tie it down. The straps will hold the bike in place until it's time to unload the bike.
it's crazy to me that you dislike ratchet straps. Literally the strongest and most reliable straps one can buy. You see how you do an extra knot so they don't come loose? You know what never comes loose? Ratchet straps. Ratchet straps can also be released slowly as you are doing with those inferior style straps.
It's not just me. Most everyone in the industry uses the Pro-Taper Cam Locks, even Ari Henning. You can see the boys at Revzilla using them in a lot of their videos. Except Lemmy. He used those ultra-cheap florescent orange ratchet straps, which I think you and I would be in agreement about how bad those are. 😎
@@CanyonChasers Actually, I would say I prefer to not get the cheapest ratchet straps, however, I've had them before and have never had one of them fail either. I'd say even the worst ratchet straps I would trust over the style you prefer as shown in your video. Doesn't mean the ones you use aren't sufficient, but I put my faith in ratchet straps over any other style to not fail 10/10 times.
Great video. But one thing I was always worried about is that the whole rear wheel is sitting on the tailgate due to our Tacoma only has 5ft bed. How's your tailgate holding up?
The third gen tailgate is way better than the second gen. My buddy has hauled his multistrada a bunch of times in his 3rd gen without any problems. I’m more like you, so with my second gen and my third gen I ordered an aluminum tailgate reinforcement plate from Relentless Fabrication. No affiliation even though I would work with them. They’ve been great. And I think piece of mind is valuable. And the reinforcement plate is a lot cheaper than a new tailgate.
Whilst your method can work.... I take my bikes in a van. Using a front wheel chock, I use the "canyon" straps to pull the front down. However I do use straps on the back HORIZONTAL to the rear pulling outward. Then 2 straps pullng the bike back and down, from the rear lower D rings - tie the back end down. Nothing moves. We all have our ways. The most important/critical issue is gettig the bike on and off - tie-down is chapter 2.
@@CanyonChasers nice man, been looking for a solid budget all terrain for my 4Runner. Been looking at these and the Kenda Klevers. Are these passenger tires? Standard load ?
These are SL - but another option to look at is the Nitto Nomad Grappler - a little less aggressive - we put them on the Subaru and I've been happy with them so far.
No good way to release a ratchet strap? It is easy - hold the loose side with tension and release the lever - been using them for a decade and never had issues. Also those cheap ratchet use the same webbing as the more expensive ones and the clamping straps - they won't snap holding a motorbike. If you are paranoid you can get thicker, wider webbing but it is not really needed unless you are hauling cars or very heavy loads.
Right, but once it's released. It's all the way released. A cam-lock, I can release it a little bit and still maintain tension. But if you are comfortable using ratchets, there's nothing wrong with that.
Actually the Hilux is physically smaller. But the Hilux uses effectively a 1-ton chassis as well as more desirable turbo diesel motor that produces much more torque.
The BB method works well with heavy cruisers, but my experience has been that not so much with sportbikes. I have seen bent forks, damaged fork tubes and broken fenders. Sportbikes are just far more delicate. And forks are made to be compressed, but he was right in that a lot of folks way overcrank things down.
Gen 1 Tacoma’s had notoriously weak tailgates. The Gen2s are better. Several companies make aluminum plates to reinforce it. Because, yeah, if you have a heavy bike, that is something to be concerned with.
Okay thanks! By heavy do you mean like gold wing heavy? I just want to be able to transport an r6, seems like it shouldn’t be a problem but want to be careful.