How To Lock Seam/Stitch, No Reverse

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I show a couple of easy ways to lock your seams without reverse (back tack). I also talk about when you may or may not need to lock in your seam stitch given that future seams may do the job.
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Filmed, Edited and Produced by Jason Potts

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Опубликовано:

27 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 34

@doctorc643 Месяц назад

Thank you for the tip... I know NOTHING about sewing but willing to learn.

@MRBUFUPAF 2 месяца назад

The first method is a great tip, thanks!

@raineman1118 5 месяцев назад

Thank you! Just learning on a 20$ mini machine. Couldn't figure out how to locked in. It's a sewing machine not a sewing robot. I keep telling myself.

@marigonzalez2607 Год назад

Thank you so much for explaining this, I just got a consew 220, it doesn't have the 'r', so no reverse, your video is a lot of help, concise ,detailed and just what I was searching for, I'm looking forward to watching all your videos. Just subscribed too.

@AlexanderDyer Год назад

Great to hear!

@einars899 3 месяца назад

I use both of these. Sometimes I do this: Just sew one way, leave long threads when cutting. Pull top thread to the underside and make a knot. This secure the thread very well and leave the top side looking good just like the thread was not secured. It is quicker than you would believe.

@AlexanderDyer 3 месяца назад

That a good method. Thanks

@dinky.. Год назад

This is very helpful! Thank you. I was just gifted a vintage Singer with no reserse and i wasn't quite sure how to approach securing stitches. Thank you!!❤

@4golfing Год назад

Thanks. I like this better than reversing.

@chrismontoya4266 Год назад

You ever get another one you got a buyer here!!

@winfoley Год назад

Nice. Thanks. I like the first method. My machine has reverse so that's what I've been using.

@CaminitiMark Год назад

Nice machine I have the original one the Singer 168g101. Its amazing as are your videos.

@AlexanderDyer Год назад

Cool, thanks

@Mikefngarage Год назад

NIce one ALex the first 30 seconds of the video are blank. Use the utube editor to remove them so you dont loose the view counts.

@AlexanderDyer Год назад

I did as you said. Thanks for the heads up and the advice.💪🙏🙂

@Mikefngarage Год назад

@@AlexanderDyer you bet bud you have a great channel

@ricgen Год назад

Ive been learning my Singer W111 153 .That was helpful.I would like to slow it down and get the right needle for canvas. Thanks!

@AlexanderDyer Год назад

That is a good one. A clutch motor can completely change a machine's behavior and I get most of my needles on eBay.

@cliftonmcnalley8469 Год назад

Very nice demo. I remember doing the second way on my first treadle when I was 8 or 9. I like that first method much better. It is best to lock stitch all seams - just a good habit. When trying on clothing for fit, it can be easy to pop the ends of the seams before waistband and facings are added. I have no desire for all the bells and whistles of a computerized machine. But the one thing I truly do not want to go without is reverse. Both my 15 treadle (1948) and my 201 (1951) are "young enough" to have reverse settings.

@fryloc359 Год назад

I had a 201 for a bit, it was a super smooth machine.

@AtelierDBurgoyne Год назад

These two methods work fine, but areba bit slower than the following: start with slow rpm and after 3-4 stitches, lift the foot a little, just enough to clear, without stopping the needle motion and pull slightly towards you back to the beginning, and then, let the foot down. Same idea at the end of the stitch for locking. Daniel

@JosieStev Год назад

I use Rotate 🎃

@rpfann1413 Год назад

Hi Alexander, can you create a video showing various leather needles and their stitches and thread weight for the Juki 1541S? Please? 🙂 love your content!

@AlexanderDyer Год назад

I have very few leather needles. I typically just use the standard needles for everything with decent results and good enough for me. Leather needles cut a shape into leather to help the thread sit lower and the different shapes are largely a matter of preference from there I think. The main reason I don't use leather needles is since I always switch between leather and fabric. Leather needle cut and that is not good with fabric.

@rpfann1413 Год назад

@@AlexanderDyer Thank you! This helps to know that I don't have to switch needles every time I sew from one material to the other. Since I do go from canvas/cotton to leather. Have a Happy New Year!

@brucenicholson9205 Год назад

Hi Alexander, loving your work and passion for the sewing! Great lighting on your videos! I have a Singer treadle patcher, Pfaff 230, my favourite Consew walking foot, and one I am asking you about, an Elise TG-360N. It is a beast! I got it from a crowd that used to make golf bags with it. Like a saddle machine, except the throat is about 3’ or more. I’ve done a lot of searching on the net and have come up with 0… I’d love to find a manual or instructions for it. Have you ever come across one of these? I’m wondering if it was a custom one off by Tailor Industrial Tokyo…? Also, while I am here, did you ever follow Roy’s Jeans? He had an amazing vintage overlocker, it did a beautiful scalloped stitch, I would love to find one. Ever seen one yourself? I love the old gear! Cheers Bruce

@AlexanderDyer Год назад

I have never heard of the TG-360N but I can say that I have seen cut and extended Pfaff Cylinder arms. They were altered at the factory they were used in to sew long filter bags. I have seen Roy and the shell overlocks. I have also seen several other denim heads on Instagram who have those overlockers.

@brucenicholson9205 Год назад

Thanks for reply, Alexander, any idea of the brand or model of the shell overlocker?

@pablopeu 2 месяца назад

Hi Alexander, I use your second method but very often when going back to finish after turning the leather piece, the new stitch rips the previous one already in the hole. Do you know what can be causing this? Thanks!

@AlexanderDyer 2 месяца назад

Leather needles cut rather than simply pierce. You could try a ball point needle or just hand tie. Also backtacking is often over used and not necessary on every stitch so based on subsequent seams that may cross previous seams, you may be able to eliminate some of your back tacks.

@user-wo7rz3yn4o Год назад

So I'm not quite clear if the lock stitch has to be exactly through the first stitch holes or does it just have to be on top of the first stitches? I assume stitches just laid beside the first ones would not work?

@AlexanderDyer Год назад

It does not have to be through the same holes but some like the way that looks. You do want the lock in to be on top of previous stitches.