I like your videos, but srsly Temu? Do that again and I’ll stop watching. Do you not care about what you advertise for? Please check out the criticism and reconsider if this is a company you can ethically advertise for.
@@OskarBechtoldI bet he figured he could try it once, take all the dirty money and then use an excuse of "because he didn't know" and everything is fine...
TLDR; you traded in your credibility and reputation for a check. I like your perspective and testing on things. But this is nothing more than a sponsored post for Eibos (and Temu) I really wish you kept up comparing filament drying methods and using actual numbers like in your box mod video from 2 years ago. Between the TEMU ad and the fact this entire video reads as a undisclosed Eibos Polyphemus ad really hurts your credibility. Which is unfortunate because I LOVE and still share the box mod video to people. And the Polyphemus seems like a neat machine. But not including the moisture removed per hour when you already have a history of including it, is suspicious. I'd watch the crap out of a series where you keep a spreadsheet of how effective dry boxes are. But not this. Anyone can make a product "review"(ad). I'd much rather follow a series where you test and track the best methods for drying filament than just another printuber reading a corporate provided spec script to sell their next product.
TOTALLY agree. PLA DOES absorb woater. I had massive bed adhesion issues along with stringing with factory new PLA (1 of 2 Elegoo rolls I bought), perfect prints after drying.
I've got the Cyclops and honestly found it very underwhelming for the price. The whole thing is so obviously cheaply made when you see it in person, the hygrometer is the cheapest off the shelf standalone unit they could find, the shell is flimsy, it's awkward to use as nothing fits together securely and the spool holder setup isn't exactly top notch either so they tend to not move all that well when the roll gets too light so the filament stops feeding properly. I hope that new model will be replacing the cyclops at the same price point 😅
I have a super simple storage solution that can reliably get to 4% RH over the long term. Basically a Plano sportsman chest with some thin weather stripping foam on the lid to improve the seal (total cost of about $30). To that we add a dryer I designed (on thingverse shortly) which uses a 4028 high static pressure fan to push the air through a bed of silica gel. Run the fan for a few hours after opening it and you get down under 5% and then you can switch it off. I have around 12 rolls in there. 4-5% seems to be about the limit for a reasonable amount of silica gel. You can go further down with molecular sieves but those are basically impossible to regenerate without working in the right kind of lab (which I do for reference). Down to the ppm range we get to some of glovebox set-ups but that is beyond most average labs even. I would like to know where a good threshold is, 5%, 10%, 15%?
My filament is stored and dried by packing each roll individually in a zipping bag with a pouch of silica desiccant meant for - mind you - car dehumidification. They can be regenerated in a microwave quite easily (check with an IR-sensor not to overheat the pouch since it will be not as wet when drying is needed compared to a scenario with the intended use. 140ish C max). From time to time I check with a humidity meter. Anything above 10 % relative humidity and the pouch goes into the microwave. At least around 10 to 15 % PLA and esp. PETG got noticeably worse. TPU/TPE is best kept as dry as can be. People say TPU will string; I say theirs is just likely to be wet.
@@39XenonD I ran a bunch of tests using a microwave to regen silica gel and was relatively unhappy with the performance. I had a sample in the microwave for a total of 15 minutes (letting it cool below 100C between hearings) and it was still holding onto 3% or so moisture by mass when I tossed it into the vacuum oven at work. My oven dried samples all were totally dry baking at 120C.
@@Ammoniummetavanadate interesting. Unfortunately I don't have a possibility at my hands to dry them completely. Usually I chuck a pouch (300 to 450 g) above 7 % rel. humidity (measured in a sealed bag) in for 3 to 5 minutes. After 4 minutes it might be around 140 C and lost 2 to 3 % in weight. Cooling to 115ish C and then 40 to 60 more seconds back to 140 C. Rinse and repeat if there is still weight loss. Best I got to was below 0.2 % rel. humidity in the bag after this, which should be sufficient. Most I had in terms of weight loss was a pouch at around 20 %,hum,rel. with about 6 % weight loss. My benchmark for dryness in printing is, whether or how much the nozzle oozes when purged with fresh filament. Compared to PLA stored at 21 C, 50 %,hum,rel., my current method there is barely any oozing going on. A few mm of a .4 mm rod if any. At ambient it was massive and seemingly unending. PETG and PLA prints are super clean with the really rare case of the faintest of whispy fine stringing. TPU is virtually string-free. What type of silica in which amounts did you dry?
@@39XenonD Silica gel is basically all the same unlike something like a chemical dessicant or molecular sieves. I was running 500g in a low form beaker. A wider tray might be better but they beaker does fine in my shop oven.
Pla absorbs water especially if it is in the air and all my filaments are in stored in a container with desiccants after use, and all put into a filament dryer when printing. I don't use vacuum bags as i never found ones that hold a vacuum over a few weeks. A 4-litre plastic cereal container plus quite a bit of coloured desiccant inside so I can see if it ok and dry.
