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I'm completely new to 3D printing so I have been a subscriber since before I bought a printer. I keep my (first) open roll of filament on the printer with the plastic vacuum wrap it came in sat on top of it. Obviously I cut of one edge of that plastic bag so it just slips over the reel. I sticky taped a bag of silica gel inside the bag. No problems yet.
*Wet filament hysteria is often caused by not running weekly calibrations and regular bed leveling. If I ever see any stinging with old mis-stored filaments I just turn down the nozzle temperature until it goes away. There is enough to worry about in life without adding "wet-filament" to your growing list of hobgoblins. At worst pop old filaments into the oven once a year at 180F. for 6 hours.*
I’d say the only thing I’ve found with the K1SE I just got IS the bed mesh. Aka, it’s a crappy bed. Period. What I don’t get is all the videos of how to deal with this and none of them suggest, “buy this bed” and you are good. Nevertheless, I’m kind of amazed watching the thing compensate for that mesh. However, I’m betting, a completely flat bed, thicker, would straigten all that out. Literally.
Sonc Pad what a waste of my time and money. Got one like you said and it has never been able to work. Klippy not Connected. No matter how you try it. And Crealirty has just run me around from the day I received it. Spent 4 months buying everything from cables 5 SD cards 5 and Yes, all the systems are up to date and the systems I am trying to connect to are NEW ENDER 3V2 NEOs. This is a waste of time and money from what I can see. YOUR CREADABILTY IS GREATLY LACKING WITH ME AT THIS TIME.
My wife got me the P1S for my birthday, and I haven't stopped printing with it, so I had to get myself the mini , just ordered it so super excited to play with it!! :D
I'd be curious to see how the neck stands up over time. Not having a truss rod is really iffy to me. I'd bet that even with that stiff aluminum bar, the neck will still warp over time and you'd have no way of correcting it. The action will def be affected and for me, high action is a no go.
I bought a Sonic Pad £85.00 and I have had a lot of fun but also problems with the go to Slicer Orca slicer but not many issues with Cura which I did use before. Found your step by steps a godsend. However, Now I have got into it a lot more I can see where a full Klipper experience would be an advantage Like KAMP etc. I will have to wait for the sonic to die before I can get anything else though :(
Creality has a fast and a normal profile 0.15 and .025 layer height. I used to do 0.12 prior to the pad for more detail. Is there a higher detail lower layer height profile for an Ender 3 S1 with sonic pad out there?
I just wanted to add, I have a Ender 3 s1 pro and I had the hardest time following the books instruction on leveling, tighten the screws..... after a few hours I went back to your ender 3 s1 pro leveling followed the steps and I had it perfect in no time. Thanks
I am new to 3d print and Sonic pad .I have a cr 10 smart pro what setup should I use in cura so I can enjoy the Sonicpad .Thanks for the help in advance
Removing filament is a question I've never asked, but always figured I was doing somewhat wrong. I like the advice to push the filament in a bit and then tug it out - have to try it on a hot nozzle. I find that by the time I get to my printer, it's already fully cooled and don't want to do a cold pull. Setting my nozzle temp to about 20°C above the glassing temp (eg: PLA 60 + 20 = 80°C) pulling it out as soon as it hits 80°C generally results in an easy and tidy removal.
I only level my bed manually with a dial indicator and check it about every 3-4 months. Just needs tweaking if that. Never let the printer do any leveling.
