How to Make a Cabochon-A Complete Tutorial 

Thanks, Jonathan, I was hoping to get some suggestions like this. I have not tried the method that you described, but I definitely will. If I understand you right, you spend a lot more time grinding bevels and less time rocking the rock back and forth from the edge to the center. I'm excited to try that out.

Imagine that you want to turn a wooden square into a circle. You have a circular saw and a sander, but no way to mark out the shape of a circle. How can you create a circle through cutting and/or sanding? You could use only the sander and try to simply round off the corners of the square to form a circle. That wouldn't work very well. (This is how I first tried to make a cabochon -- merely by grinding from the edges to the center with grinding any bevels. It didn't work very well.) Now consider what would happen if you use the circular saw to cut an octagon by removing a triangle from each corner, and then round off the octogon into a circle with the sander. The result would be better. But a sander is slower and imprecise, so you might end up with something more like a rounded off octogon than a circle. Now imagine first cutting an octogon, and then cutting a triangle from each point of the octagon to form a shape with 16 sides, and doing this one more time to create a shape with 32 sides. At that point, you could use the sander to e round off the 32 points and end up with a pretty good circle. Here is the key point: the circle emerges almost entirely from cutting angles and not from trying to form curves. It is a clunky metaphor, but your doming technique is like cutting an octogon (the first bezel) and the going right to the sander. No matter how much you try to continue to form the dome by rocking from the edge to the center, it is very difficult to form an even dome this way. I know because I made cabochons like that for a long time. By grinding two or three partially overlapping bevels before smoothing out the dome, the rocking back and forth part will go very quickly and can be done with a fairly light touch. All you will be doing is knocking down the ridges between the bevels (like sanding the 32 sided shape into a circle). Cabbing wheels are very good at knocking down small ridges. When I dome a cabochon, 80% of the time is spent grinding the bevels, and 20% is spent rounding off the dome with the 80 grit and 220 grit hard wheels. I knock off the tops of the ridges with the 80 grit wheel, and then use the 220 to fine tune the dome and remove the ridges entirely. After a minute or two on the 220 wheel, I hold the cab up to eye level looking directly at the side (the girdle). The dome should look evenly rounded when viewed from any direction. The beauty of this technique is that if you simply follow the process, it will create a wonderfully even dome on any cabochon shape. It will take some time and close attention to angles to grind multiple bevels that cover the entire face of the cab. This gets faster and easier with practice, although it will always be time consuming for hard materials. But it shouldn't make the overall cabbing process any slower because you will be able to move through the resin wheels more quickly if you start with an even done. The resin wheels do an excellent job of removing scratches from a rounded surface, and struggle to remove scratches from a flat or only slightly rounded surface. That is why people often struggle with scratches in the middle of their cabs. If the middle of the cab is less domed than the edges, it will be harder to remove scratches from the middle. Indeed, pretty much any time that I notice scratches that require me to move backwards to a coarser grit wheel to remove them, I can trace the problem to a little part of the dome that wasn't rounded as evenly as the rest. Finally, here are two tricks. When first learning this technique, it can be hard to grind the second and third bevels at a consistent angle and to the same depth all the way around the cab. There is a simple trick that makes this easier. After you grind each bevel, the flat part that remains at the center of the cab should be the exact same shape as the outside of the cab, just smaller. So if you are doing a teardrop shape, you will have a flat teardrop in the middle of the cab after grinding the first bevel, and a smaller flat teardrop in the middle after the second bevel. The second trick is a way to test the evenness of the dome on a completed cab. If you have a tube light in your basement, stand under it while tilting the cab towards and away from the light. If the dome is evenly rounded, the reflection of the tube light will remain a straight line as you tilt the cab. You will be able to immediately spot areas where the dome is uneven because the reflection of the tube light will bend. On materials like crazy lace agate, where the pattern is the main attraction and the colors are opaque, you may find that having a more evenly rounded dome doesn't look all that different. But with more "gemmy" material, be it amethyst, rose quartz, or even just solid red jasper, an even dome will change the appearance dramatically, and in my opinion, for the better.

Wow, that's a great explanation and I really appreciate you taking the time to write it up. I also need to come over to your place and take a lesson. Weren't you just learning stuff from me a year or two ago? Boy, things have changed!

​@@jonathanyoung7785 супер!👍

I'm sure having fun in mine.

That's good to know. Thanks!

You’re welcome. Your work must have had to have been much more precise.

Yes but not as beautiful.

Just think about your second cab!

@@MichiganRocks thanks

Thanks! I haven't really made that many cabs compared to a lot of people. I'm sure there are plenty of tricks that I don't know yet.

@@MichiganRocks You can only get better. Practice makes perfect.

Nice!

You're welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

That's a good point. I'll try to remember to do that in the future. In fact, I have some that I just started that I think I'll bevel before I start on the front.

Thanks, Kyla.

Do you ever think about getting back into it?

Thanks for the nice compliments. I did a little planning for this one, so that helps.

Good for you, David. You're going to love it.

Crazy lace is one of my favorites, so it was an easy choice.

I was really torn, because I liked that first spot too. I really was going to go the other way until I started recording.

Please let me know your phone number?

@@diedredunham7383 Who are you ?

@@diedredunham7383 You don't need my phone number. What's your question? I'll answer you here.

Good luck with your first cabs!

You're welcome.

Thank you.

You're welcome, Jeff.

Crazy lace is usually pretty awesome.

Thanks!

I mostly finished the backs of the Sow Belly agate I did recently and it was really time consuming. I think it took longer than the front and I finally gave up and went back a wheel to hide some scratches that had shown up.

You're welcome, Dawn.

That's what I'm here for, Dan.

You're welcome.

I did talk about heating it up first, but for a different reason. If the stone is cold, the wax just hardens and doesn't stick. I have not heard that the hot wax could crack the stone. I do much worse to the stone by putting it in the freezer and then running it under hot water. Maybe I shouldn't do that.

@@MichiganRocks I did see that you talked about that, and that's great. I was just passing on what I've been taught by my local gem and mineral society. I'm sure that some types of rocks can fracture with sudden changes in temperature.

@@betojdesigns I appreciate the information. I hadn't considered it.

Just keep working it. It just takes time and I still struggle sometimes.

You're welcome.

Good plan! I'm planning to go out tomorrow and thought about taking the drone along. I decided I didn't want to bother with it, but never thought about getting it shot down. I wonder if there are flight restrictions on them right now? Probably not, but it would be worth checking!

Gracias.

That's awesome, you're going to have a lot of fun with that!

In a recent video, I asked people for suggestions for future videos. Someone suggested that I go to the channel Black Opal Direct to see how he films his cab machine. I did and saw that he has a really nice jig to hold his phone. I made my own version with a couple boards hanging down from the ceiling that hold a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe right over my cab machine. I already had a clamp on camera mount that fit on the PVC perfectly. Now I can easily move the camera from one wheel to the next and I don't have to reach around a tripod while I work. The whole thing folds up into the ceiling when I'm not using it. This video was the first time I've used it and I really liked it.

This Spring I plan on seeing you in the U. P. Sooner or later I will run into you on a beach.

@@johnbaenen5386 It's a good possibility!

What's Northern? Do you mean Kingsley North?

I have never taken a class. How did my method compare to what you learned?

@@MichiganRocks I'd say your method is similar but my rock shop guy has a whole process for getting the top perfect! One step that helps is using a marker to cover the surface and then you'll notice if you've missed any areas. I'll see if I can find the video for it!

I added the written instructions in my Instagram post above since I can't share pictures in the comments.

@@utahrockhoundingcouple I have heard of the marker method. You have to be careful with that though. If you use it on some rocks it can soak in and require a lot of grinding to remove.

Good to know on the issues with using a marker! Thanks!

I usually just push the stick down hard on the back of the cab, not worrying about there being wax between. I've never heard that was important. I'll try it. Thanks for the tip! I guess you didn't watch to the end (no problem), but I showed myself putting the cab in the freezer. The first time I showed that, I taught a few people something. Some people were soaking them in acetone to remove the wax. The freezer is way easier.

I'm not sure if it's artistic. Seems like all the art is in the rock. I just cut it out.

Thank, Alfred!

Thanks.

You're welcome, Devin!

Thanks!

My friend designed it. He asked me not to share the plans. I have made a couple videos showing it and have answered some basic questions in the comments. Homemade Tumbler: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6qIcK2ZohGM.html Tumbler Update: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PAMOCc2BNJM.html

That's not my tutorial, just the one I use. I'm not really that good at making them. It's sort of awkward for me, so I don't think a video from me would be very helpful.

Yes, those were some good ones.

I think that's the way most people do it. I have only learned how to do a groove wrap. I should really learn how to do the normal kind of wrapping too.

Keep trying!

How have you been polishing them? In a tumbler? These wheels won't cut you unless they're really new. After the initial bumps get worn down, you can rub your finger on them. In fact, I did that in one part of the video just to make sure the wheel was wet all over before I started. The dop stick just makes it easier to hold onto the cab.

@@MichiganRocks I tumble and polish stone for a living. I get rocks off the beach and tumble them up. We have a lot of quartz including Smokey quartz, petrified wood, agates. You know, the usual suspects. I have 2 tumblers and have almost worn out the bearing on the one. I love your show and the stones.

@@robbybobby6466 You can make a living doing that? The way I do it, I would starve to death before I got my first batch done.

@@MichiganRocks I do Marble & Granite installations. I do all the fabrication and polishing of the stone. My own business over 35 years. Tri state area is where I live , there is no lack of work. I tumble beach rock for pure pleasure.

@@robbybobby6466 Oh, ok. I thought you were saying that you make a living from tumbling rocks. That would be very surprising. Now I understand.

You're welcome.

I have a little ramp that came with it that lets you angle the glass so that edge ends up at 45°.

Yep, that's Mexican Crazy Lace. Awesome stuff.

No, I have not made any really small cabs. I might skip the first wheel just because taking off too much would be more noticeable and easier to do on a small cab.

Nope, I have a couple small fire agates, but I think they have to be ground very carefully to show the fire. I haven't really looked into it too much. I should though.

That's a really big question. You'd need quite a bit of stuff and it's not cheap. If you bought rocks already slabbed, you wouldn't need a slab saw. You'd still need a trim saw, and a cab machine at a minimum. My cab machine is a Kingsley North Cabber 6. Here's my review of the machine and a couple links to where you can buy one. Take a look at these and then ask some more questions if you're really serious. Cabber 6 Review: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n30aBTu9OkY.html Cabber 6 with upgraded wheels (the one in this video): kingsleynorth.com/kingsley-north-cabber-6-nova.html?ref=robertabram1& (affiliate link) Standard Cabber 6: kingsleynorth.com/kingsley-north-cabber-6.html?ref=robertabram1& (affiliate link)

I sell a few things at a local shop. They don't have an online store, but will work with you if you call or email. olivetbookandgift.com

Yes, the last four are Nova wheels. The first two are Galaxy. All Diamond Pacific. These are supposed to be the best.

I have not wished for the 8" machine. I make those little heart pendants like I showed at the very end of the video. They have a concave curve that I wouldn't be able to do with an 8" machine. The wheels for the 8" machine are also about twice as much. I wouldn't have to change them as often, but it would sure be expensive when I did. The slab was about 1/4 inch. That's a good size if you're putting a groove around the cab.

That's Mexican Crazy Lace Agate.

@@MichiganRocks It looks very beautiful!😍🥰😇👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

About a quarter inch. Any less doesn't give me much room for the groove. If you weren't making a groove, you could go a little thinner.

I thought so too. Too many choices on one slab!

Nope, my drone is safe and sound. I think I'll keep it in the house for awhile though. I have not done that, but a friend does it. It works with very hard rocks, like this one. Most agates and jaspers should work well that way. I think my friend does the girdle again after the cab comes out of the tumbler to make the line nice and crisp again.

I can't find that exact same one. I got it used. I found one that is the same brand and listed it in my Amazon storefront. You can find that in the description of any of my videos. I think any brand would probably work.

No, I have watched a couple of videos on the Black Opal Direct channel though.

You should check him out, Pulitzer Opal is really funny.

Ok, I just watched a video called, "Opal … Expect the UNEXPECTED !!" It was a very strange video, but I have to say, it kept me entertained. Oh, pretty opal. Why are there bugs on the screen? Oh, there's that nice opal again. Hey! Turtle chase! Now I'm watching an arrow head being snapped. Opal. Cat. Dog. Opal again...

The machine I have comes in a cheaper version with Kingsley North wheels. I have the Nova wheels, which are generally considered the best. That machine is cheaper, but is the exact same size. You might consider a flat lap. Flat laps can make a cab just like this, but there are several disadvantages, in my opinion. First the advantages: Flat laps are generally cheaper, smaller, and the replacement laps are cheaper too. Disadvantages: Flat laps only have one lap on at a time, so you have to change them several times while making a cab. It's also hard to see your work. You're looking at the back of the cab instead of between the cab and the wheel like I was in this video. You're basically working blind and checking your work every now and then. I just posted a question on the Rock Tumbling Hobby forums asking how people did this and one woman told me that she leans her head over and peeks underneath when she's working on the edges. One guy has a slant lap and works from the back of the machine to see underneath it. Another person posted a nice video of him working on a cab on his machine. In my experience, the flat lap grinds a little slower too, but a friend of mine told me that he feels like they both work at about the same speed. Here's the discussion I started at RTH: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/101573/girdle-line-when-using-flat?page=1&scrollTo=1263995 Here's a link to a flat lap: kingsleynorth.com/all-u-need-6-inch-complete.html?ref=robertabram1& (affiliate link) Here's a slant lap: kingsleynorth.com/slant-cabber-6-inch-complete.html?ref=robertabram1& (affiliate link)

About a quarter inch.

Do you mean heat treating rocks? I haven’t tried that or any other treatments that I can think of.

@@MichiganRocks They put the rocks in a pot with a sugar and water bath. It has a glass lid with a vacuum pump. It looks like a slow cooker and it heats the mix for about three days. After that it looks very dark but they soak it in citric acid and when it comes out of the "treatment" they soak the stones in water with baking soda. Once that's done, the once whitish matrix is dark which then really accentuates all the colours you couldn't really see well otherwise.

@@Kerrsartisticgifts I’ve never heard of that process. Is it just used in opals? I have never worked with opals either.

@@MichiganRocks , I began watching your videos on tumbling and collecting rocks on Lake Huron. That led me to opal videos and gold mining videos. So far I have only seen matrix opals being treated in the way I described. Those Andamooka matrix stones start out looking like bits of concrete but once they treat them the colours really stand out, it's amazing to see. I watch "the opal mills" and "pulitzer opal" doing it. You would probably really enjoy seeing them do what you do, except with various opal stones. Boulder opal, seam opal, matrix opal, nobbys, but I'm wondering if you could treat some other stones, like they do with the opals.

@@Kerrsartisticgifts I watched the one you linked to showing how they treat them. That was pretty cool.

I have it listed in my Amazon storefront which you can find in the descriptions of all my videos. The brand is "Twofer".

@@MichiganRocks awesome thank you 😊

I think that should do it for making the groove. In the description of this video, you'll find my Amazon storefront. I have the groove bit I use listed there. There's also a glass grinder that's as close to the one I have as I could find. My grinder was used when I got it and I'm not sure they make that one anymore. I think any glass grinder would work, so look around for a used one if you want.

I use dop wax to stick the cab to the dop stick. kingsleynorth.com/green-dop-wax.html?ref=robertabram1& (affiliate link) Here's a link to the stencil I used: kingsleynorth.com/gem-temp-template.html?ref=robertabram1& (affiliate link)

@@MichiganRocks thanks

@@MichiganRocks thank you again.

I have one similar to mine linked in my Amazon storefront. You can find that in the description of any of my videos. There are quite a few different ones available. You might want to look for a used one too. Mine is used.

Ágata rendada mexicana maluca.

I'm using the exact same blade, except mine is a ten inch blade. Mine might seem to cut really well when I speed up the video. I'm very happy with its performance though. kingsleynorth.com/mk-303c-professional-diamond-blades+kn_dimd_blade_type-MK-303C-Professional-Diamond-Blade+kn_dimd_blade_desc-10dia-X-040-rim-x-58-x-12-arbor?ref=robertabram1& (affiliate link)

@@MichiganRocks Thanks so much Rob! I just ordered a new one!

Only you would know that. I really wasn’t sure. That’s hilarious that you went and found the time stamp.

In the description of this video, you'll find my Amazon storefront. I have it listed there.

I made all my own, none came with my pot. I have one or two that must have been from the end of the dowel because they are shorter. I don't remember there being a problem with them, but I don't usually have a problem with the longer ones either. I have jammed a couple against the hand rest, but that's pretty rare. I'm not sure there were any answers to your questions there, but that's all I've got for you.

Definitely a saw and a vibratory tumbler. That would take forever to do on a cab machine and it would still be tricky to get into the corners. Here's how I do it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dJ7qriOF0r4.html

Yes, I wear a respirator.