You won't regret buying one, they are cheaper now then when I bought mine. £100 will get you a brand new shrinker stretcher the same as mine. I have two just to save time swapping the jaws but that's not necessary. Definitely one of the best purchases you can make.
a workmate of mine had an X-19 in the 80s..fairly decent at time...he never used to lock it as his theory was if they're going to nick it they will...saves damaging the door lock.. 😂
Excellent and informative videos following with interest and guidance on how to tackle some of the jobs on my cars. Currently starting work on a Rover P4 which I bought to use while I restore my Lotus Elan, however took off the front valance to repair, spotted some holes in the chassis.....so now the Rover has taken the place of the Lotus for repair......the joys of classic car ownership and uncovering other peoples bodges.....Cheers David
Thanks for watching. Yes, as you say the joys of classic car ownership, you can certainly save some money if you can repair this stuff yourself. There's so many people making useful videos on the subject now. I suppose it's just a case of choosing who you want to listen to, all of us car restorers have are own methods and levels of understanding. I think there is a tier system between mot repairers, car restorers and coach builders. Different methods and standards for each tier.
Neat job as usual Ben, I repaired a write -off chevette once, not a lot of damage but twisted. I was never 100% happy with it so a friend had it cheap, 3months later a loaded 8 wheel tipper ran over it while parked.....it wasn't repaired again !😆
Hi Ben. Here in Denmark, nothing good on the screen this Friday evening, not before your video come on😊 Anyway was in my workshop and put new panels on my 23 years old Alfa 147, so a great evening it has been, just alone me and the welders after a hard week on job. Thanks for a another great video🙏
Hi, I either let the panel cool to room temperature between sets of tacks or speed up the process with compressed air. Weld a set of tacks 2" apart then allow to cool to room temperature. Then do the next set of tacks and let cool again, repeat until the panel is fully welded. This will keep distortion to the absolute minimum. High crown panels still distort but it takes more distortion to notice it. If you weld a large flat unsupported panel, a tiny bit of distortion will be very noticeable, where as a tiny bit of distortion on a high crown panel will not be very noticeable. This is because the weld shrinkage will just result in less crown. on a flat panel it will distort in both directions, some low points some high points. A high crown panel is well supported because of it's shape and won't move around easily, a large flat panel you can push around with your finger.
