You and I had talked a while ago about this, Andrew. Thank you "very much" for the complete visual explanation! When I cut a different project, using plexiglass, I found online two helpful hints: 1. Use clamps, of some kind, to hold the PGlass in place while you saw on top of a table top. 2. The usage of drops of water on the blade and glass helps keep the glass cooler and this affords a better cut. It's weird how it works! It's like using oil, but because this is plastic the water is the opposite of the oil in the PGlass so it lubricates the cut. I was amazed how much better my drill holes were, with less cracks.
Oh, that’s very interesting. I wished I’d known that before we made the video so I could have passed it on. Many thanks indeed. I’ll see what I can do to let others benefit from what you have found out. Hope that’s OK. Best wishes.
I haven't tried using water on one of your paper holders, yet... But, another project (covering crawl space vents) required me to drill holes and make some external outside cuts. Applying water to the saw and drill bits seemed to help the process. It's worth a shot since it is just water! :)
One other detail to consider is that the geometry of a standard twist drill bit is not optimized for drilling acrylic/plexiglass. These materials are best drilled with a bit that has been "lipped" to prevent cracking, as shown in the link below. Doing so creates a scraping action, that is less "grabby" in the material. You don't need to take a lot off the edge, even just a little will do the job. If you don't have a sharpening stone as shown, a light touch with a rotary tool such a dremel can be used. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4mKktUQXAaM.html
😮Ohh wow! You have blown me away with this ingenious idea of making a painting board! I am going to definitely be making me at least 3 of these in my favorite sizes! Thanks for sharing this wonderful informational video with us
Your design is excellent! I found your explanation precise, accurate and concise. I'm looking forward to building my own based on this inspiration. Thank you for investing the time to make this video!
Thank you very much for showing this very thorough video on how you make your painting boards! I am going to see how I can make one (or two). Thanks again!
Oooh, thank you for sharing more about this!! I've been fascinated with your hinged mat/drawing board setup ever since I first saw you use it. That deckled edge is much nicer than the stiff, straight line I get with masking tape. Does this setup work with papers that have a hard sizing, like Arches? Sometimes my washes seep through the tape at the bottom, and I wonder if this would be a problem with acrylic.
I use Arches paper sometimes . Washes can seep a little bit under the mat, but that doesn’t worry me. I don’t think it is anything to do with the type of paper you use.
Hi Andrew. I made a frame but the washes leaked under the edge of the frame espesialy at the bottom. But, I was only using thin acrylic sheet about 1.5 mm thick so I think there was not enough weight in the frame to press against the paper. I will try again with a thicker piece. I cut the hole out using a special blade that you can fit into a stanly knife like a hook that slowly scapes a grove out of the plastic. That worked quite well. Regards and thanks for all your great inspiring art work. Andy
I think my clear acrylic sheet is thicker, 3mm, so it is more ridged but is harder to cut. A Stanley knife wouldn’t do the job. I have paid and had some of my drawing boards cut with a laser - makes a good job. Good luck.
Very much so, Andrew All in the style of what Edward Wesson did. I first saw this done by Steve Hall, then made my own...however, I did not use an acrylic frame, just heavy mat board. Wish I had done it your way from the git go. Thanks.
I'm so glad you made this video! I love your set-up. I'm a beginner and find that the non-white color of any masking tape (cream, blue, etc.) becomes an unwelcome visual element when I'm in process of painting. Also find that some masking tape tears the surface of some cotton paper, no matter now many tactics I use to decrease the stickiness of the adhesive. Thanks!
Wonderful video , love your work space in your garden. It could probably be cut with a jig saw , selecting the appropriate blade , providing the plexiglass was secured and using guides for the saw. I will give it a try.
A scroll saw works better because it has a table and a hold-down (Usually) to keep the piece from vibrating. I saw another note above that recommended water as a coolant and lubricant while cutting acrylic. I'll have to try that. Personally, I don't see a great advantage to the clear acrylic. It's expensive here and I don't need to see the paper I'm not painting. I put a note above about using Dry-Marker board. It's less expensive and easier to cut if precautions are taken to keep it from bouncing around. Take a look at my note, it may work for you.
@@mikedameron602 good points , could just use my mat cutter to cut the top piece. Plexus glass can be cut on a table saw too , just for general information , but I am sure I have extra mat board laying around to make the top piece but be fun to use plexiglass lol nice chatting.
Thanks for getting in touch. Yes, we plan to make new videos regularly. All the videos we have produced so far are available on my website, www.andrewpitt.co.uk
Slightly off topic, but you mention in some videos how Bockingford and Arches behave differently due to their sizing properties, so I was wondering if you choose the paper depending on subject, or is it just how you feel that day? Love the new book by the way, quite inspiring!
Thanks, glad you have enjoyed my new book. As to the reasons for choosing the paper I will use; I wish I knew. I think it is a combination of subject, mood, weather conditions but mostly a constant search for the perfect paper for all subjects and all occasions. Limiting my choice to just two papers is bad enough. I don’t think I can cope with more. And frankly, my failed paintings are mainly down to me, not the paper. Thanks for your interest. Sorry my answer isn’t very helpful.
Hi Andrew. Thanks so much for this video! I really like the size of your paintings. Do you mind sharing the size of the Masonite board and plexus-glass - hence the frame size and which border size you decided on? Thanks I advance! Lara
I have several boards of different sizes. The overall size of this particular one is 50cm by 70cm. The top and side borders are 7.5cm wide. The bottom border is 8.5cm. This results in a painting which is roughly half-imperial and fits a standard UK frame. Hope this helps.
@@AndrewPittArtist Yes, thankyou! That helps very much for me to get one of these constructed! Also- wanted to say where you live is so beautiful ! And so much inspiration with the coasts, water and boats! I’d like to travel their someday. We live in Denver, Colorado, USA Thanks again! You are my watercolor artist hero!!!
Does the plexiglass vary in measurement on the bottom? It appears slightly wider along the bottom in the video. An excellent way to keep paper from blowing away and also for seeing the completed look . Thank you 🙏
The main purpose of my plexiglass drawing board is to replicate the dimensions of the mounts I use, so, yes, the bottom border is slightly wider than the top and sides.
It does a bit sometimes. Mainly at the bottom. If I think it is going to be problem I soak up the excess moisture with a dry brush. In any case, does it matter? www.andrewpitt.co.uk
