I’ve always marked off the end of my stock to the required thickness of strip needed and placed a magnetic stop block to the table top. Cut the strip, slide the stock up to the stop block again and away you go. What could be simpler?
My Thin Strip Block is ,1 piece of wood 5 inch Across 2.1/2 High with a handle on the top it is about 18 inch long ( not a critical size on any part ) the 2.1/2 inch is flat to the bed of the saw. The back end has a small strip of wood as a stop adjustable as a thickness indicator and act as the pusher. This runs along the Fence on the bed. I set the thickness of strip I need then with the wood to be cut placed at the left hand side of the saw blade pushed up to the block then push through the blade check the size, It takes 3 pieces of wood and 4 Screws. It took me 15 mins to make out of scraps and I have used it for years.
I notice you have removed the Incra fence and refitted the factory one . How you getting on with your spindle . I watch and enjoy all your videos thanks .
Hi David, you're right, I have. I wanted to prove I could fit the Incra, now its done, I know its a very simple task to swap them over so I thought I would give the stock fence a try just so I could if ask at least have an opinion on it. With regards to the spindle I have begun using it for some very simple tasks and the very mention of it strikes fear into my heart. So far so good, may well be a video coming up shortly that will involve the spindle. Thanks for the compliment and watching. Regards, Gra.
At 7:15 your bandsaw blade is deflecting noticeably. I'm sure you know this, but you should take some time to explain that the proper way to secure a bandsaw blade is to have the drop-down guide properly adjusted and sitting about a quarter inch above the work piece. This prevents the blade from flexing all about the place and mitigates the risk of the blade coming off the drive and idler wheel. The backing bearing needs to be properly set so the blade does not flex back, as I've noticed in your cutting at this time frame.
It's only wood or acrylic being cut and the thin strips are probably being used for visual enhancement only. You are not building a Rolex watch, so as an engineer, I can't see how 0.1mm +/- is any thing to be concerned about. The design is fine, but the average DIY person doesn't have a 3D Printer, a router table etc. I believe the reason lots of woodworkers go to the extreme in design and build is they have plenty of time on their hand and enjoy what they are doing. Nothing wrong with that. Commercial wood shops / cabinetry shops don't have this luxury - they just want to get the job done. Thanks for the video and your design ideas though.
NIce jig! However it may be less accurate for thicker stock as the upper point appears to be protruding slightly beyond the lower one. A bit of sanding might cure this.
Excellent! I'm waiting for Axminster to deliver my new tablesaw, but once it arrives, I'll be copying your design! Thank you, too for resisting the temptation to add spurious music to your videos, which seems to be something of a trend, especially with amateur American RU-vidrs. Many otherwise good videos have been ruined by their creators bolting on unnecessary music!
@@GTWoodshop I would much rather listen to the machines! It seems to me that many amateur video-makers are adding music "because everybody else does". It rarely works well. If these people were doing a demo before a live audience, would they take a tape player along? I think that a documentary is a very different matter. But it is an unwelcome distraction - and often an annoyance - on an instructional video. Some of these fools even have the music playing behind the commentary. I have to ask, why? A prime example was an Axminster bandsaw set-up video where the music was so loud that I couldn't hear what the poor bloke was saying! It isn't a hard and fast rule but it seems to me that the characters most likely to randomly add music are keen amateurs working in their garage, while time-served professionals, like yourself, rarely do so. OK, rant over. I'll go back to binge-watching all your videos 🙂
Nice jig, but you have to move the fence every time. Bit of a pain and an opportunity for error to creep in. My ShopFox fence is well set up. But every time I move it the back end (out-feed end) will move every time I lock the bar in place. I've messed with the adjustments repeatedly in an effort to get that last little shift out of the fence. Maybe it's me but I just can't get that last little bit out. That means every time I reset the fence it's going to move ever so slightly. I've gotten mine down to a max shift from one extreme to the other of 3/32nd's (little more than a 16th).
Hi Graham Another great vid and you've just saved me a small fortune as I've been considering purchasing the micro jig, no need now, by the way I noticed the lovely Incra lift is missing from the router table have you had an issue with it Keep them coming Bast Wishes David
Hi David, thank you and glad to hear you've saved some cash. I've been using the jig quite a bit and its fabo. 👍. Yes it had to go back due to a bearing issue, must get round to putting it back in. 👍
I am wondering why you built it all to go to the left of the blade, turning your safe sliding saw in to a standard cabinet saw? The massive black housing on the back side of the fence seems to prevent easy clamping of a stop block to the fence. Does the fence slide far enough (towards the HS 950) to clear the blade and be useful as a stop block?
Hi Randy, good question. After owning a cabinet saw for so long I suppose I am partially still in that mindset, not fully converted to a slider as yet. The fence does slide more than enough to enable easy clamping yes. 👍
Great tip! I’m still getting my head around adapting techniques to my new sliding table (Hammer k3). What happened to your Incra LS rip fence? Looks like you’ve removed it? I’m wondering if I can fit one to the hammer K3 but hard to find the info I need to know if it’ll work. Any advice?
Hi JD Thanks you. I put the stock fence back on as I wanted to make sure I'd given it a fair crack of the whip. Now I know that I can pop it back on when ever I want to I'm happy to work with this for a bit. I'll let you know in due course what I think. 👍
@@GTWoodshop looking forward to hearing your thoughts! I’m not a fan of the fence that came with my k3 and the incra sounds like a great upgrade…if I can manage to actually mount the thing.
Great channel, learn something every time I watch your videos, your presentation is clear, concise with honesty and humour. At the 5:00 mark you are using a corner routing jig - do you have any info on it and how does it compare with other brands?
Perfect timing. I have to rip some thin stock next week. I’ve been eyeing some of the pre made fancier jigs when your video popped up. One might think you were somehow closer than the thousands of miles between our shops. Maybe I need to look over my shoulder when I’m in my workshop.
@@GTWoodshop Good idea. Here in the US, used Incra fence systems sell for nearly the same price as new. There is a 7 month lead time as well on new items.
