A Thin Strip Ripping Jig 

Hi Charles, Not to worry, the tie is only for making videos, never for actually working in the shop. As replied to concerned others, you don't want to see what I wear working in the shop. Best, George.

Thank you Claudio, it's great to hear that my approach is appreciated. I try to avoid the things that irritate me when I watch (too many) YT videos. Thus, short introductions, say what the point is at the the beginning, no loud music, and most of all, no begging for likes and subscribers. Even with that though, I often make videos that are too long. Still, thank you for noticing and for the positive feedback.

Holy Smokes enbwee, you've left me nearly speechless! Thank you so much for your kind words and generousity in making your reaction public. Your expressed appreciation makes me want to make more videos. Best to you.

necktie on a table saw? unbuttoned loose cuffs? unreal.

Hi Steven, Take a look at Keith's comments below where he describes a safety feature or two he added to the jig. Thank you so much for your enthusiastic reception to the video!

You're most welcome, Camishafi1, thank you for the kind thoughts in your comment.

Hi Dave, Be sure to check Keith Clague's comments below where he describes a safety modification to the jig -- an acrylic plate over the blade. Thank you for your positive words, and happy modelling!

Thank you for your endorsement David. Best, George F.

I'm right with you on a push stick, Hu. I'm less in favour of feather board on the left. Here's why: One of the features of this rig is that the fence does not need to be re-positioned between rips. If there were a feather board on the left, it would have to be snugged into place after each rip, so that would remove one of the selling points of the overall rig. But, yes, a push stick, absolutely! Thank you for commenting, your ideas, and your kind words!

I'm glad I was able to satisfy your quest. Thanks for commenting!

Hi Bob, thanks for telling me about your modification. I can see the advantages right away. For one, you retain a max height cut since your workpiece rides on the table surface. For another the jig is compact. Clamping to the fence is firmer than hanging clamps at the edges of the table. The only feature you would be giving up without a mitre runner is that the setting would not be kept from one use to next if you removed the jig. But then, I can picture a version that both attaches to the fence and has a runner for the mitre slot. Thanks for telling me about your design. I like it! A lot.

Thanks so much, Steve, your endorsement is deeply appreciated.

Thank you for saying so D. Brown. I'm just finishing a set of 8 chairs with bent-lamination slats. Instead of making all the slats at once, I set up the thin-ripper as needed, chair by chair. A not-til-now appreciated feature of the jig is that it holds its setting. So even though I took it down and set it up again and again, the strip thickness remained constant. I'll throw that glove down against any other method of making thin rips. Thanks again for taking the time to comment.

Hi Vin, I'm glad to hear the jig is working for you. Izzy Swan has a version that is even simpler, and I had to think long and hard to find an advantage of mine over his. It is that mine will hold its dimension when you put it away and use it again. But his is so easy to set up, I recommend you take a look at it when you can. Thank you so much for commenting. Are your models on display somewhere in the web?

Hi Mr Elza, Thank you for letting me know of your interest in the rip jig. Another viewer, Keith Clague, made some suggestions to improve the safety of the jig. You can find those suggestions in the comments attached to the video. Another design that might serve you is Izzy Swan's. It is simpler than mine, and one of the few designs without limit on strip length. Here is the reference to it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uXQncneobeI.html With his jig you would want to rip all of your strips in one session to ensure consistent thickness. If you have access to a 3D printer, say through a friend or public library, I can send you the file that instructs the printer to make the splitter. It assumes a 1/16th inch kerf. Best of luck with your project, and thanks again for telling me about it.

Hi Mr Elza, I cannot read all of the second comment you sent. It cuts off midway into the word "splitter" and when I click on "read more", the comment disappears completely, replaced by your original comment and my reply. The best thing would be to switch to email. Email me at georgef@uottawa.ca. If you wish to keep your email private, create a temporary address at gmail and use that as a "burner". The .stl file is long, so sending it as an attachment to email would be the solution. Bye for a bit, George F.

Thanks Jake. I found a couple on RU-vid -- one by Colin Kinect and another by Izzy Swan -- that are easy to build and use. I should add links in the show notes to show folks the options that are out there. But, yes, this one is my Go-To ripper. Thanks for commenting!

Thank you Charles, I appreciate the endorsement. My own reaction to seeing it for the first time was to think it dangerous, and this may be a common first reaction to it. But it does become easy to use after a few rips. Thank you for taking the time to comment.

Welcome Tim, glad to have you aboard!

Phew, way to stoke my enthusiasm to share more, David. Thank you so much for commenting "out loud".

Thank you Malik for taking the time to comment.

Thanks for commenting Mike. Check out Keith Clague's comments. He cut long strips successfully for a kayak and recommended a safety modification to the jig worth knowing. Best of luck in your project!

@@georgefouriezos8863 I read Keith's comments, great ideas. I was also planning to try slots in my fence to adjust forwards and backwards with the blade height. Glad to know it works :)

Hi Peter. It's always a special treat for me to learn that someone found one of my videos useful, so thank you for taking the time to put it in writing. Nothing says "design" better than a teardrop trailer, so best wishes to you in constructing it. Keith Clague, who commented in this video below, also made this sort of jig, and used it to rip long strips for his kayak. His version of the jig incorporatated a safety feature, namely an acrylic cover over the blade. I feel that's an important addition. Take a look below at the comments for his and and the back-and-forth discussion we had. In closing let me add that I was thoroughly charmed by your comment. Thank you again for posting.

Thank you Lucian for taking the time to write a comment of appreciation. Be sure to see Keith Clague's comment on his safety improvement -- a clear plastic shield -- and the follow-up video where I showed some photos of his improvements. Thank you again for your kind and generous words.

@@georgefouriezos8863 I HAVE ONE MORE QUESTION . WHAT IS THE MATERIAL THE WEDGE IS MADE OF? thank you

@@lucianverda6331 Hi Lucian, I used a 3D Printer to make the wedge out of PLA (polylactic acid), a plastic. Of the materials that can be 3D printed it is among the weakest. ABS or PETG would have been better choices, but the PLA has held up well to moderate use.

@@georgefouriezos8863 i will check it out ! thanks again george

What an encouraging comment! Thank you Andy.

Mostly I use playing cards to *add* small amounts of space...but you took my breath away in one of your videos where you shaved an angled workpiece down to the right width by *removing* a shim at a time -- was it playing cards? -- using the stack of shims to register the chisel. I have not yet used your method, but I haven't forgotten it either. Thank you for commenting, and thank you more for your videos!

That's true. The only advantage to having a base plate is that the setting stays as it was between uses.

Thank you Timothy for letting me know. It's always a thrill to learn that something I've posted was appreciated. Best.

Thank you Baldeep for your appreciation and for taking the time to express it in a comment.

And thank you, Tony, for your kind words.

Thank you John, for taking the time to comment. I appreciate your kind words. Be sure to take a look at the improvements suggested by Keith Clague deep in the comments.

Thanks Patrick, your comment put a smile on my face.

Hi J. It does work well indeed, but your concerns are legitimate and appreciated. Fish down to the comments by Keith Clague where he elaborates some safety improvements to the jig, of which a transparent window over the blade seems to me to do the best good. Also working with a push stick would be a good move too. Thank you for commenting and for your interest in the jig.

Thank you for the endorsement, Jamalama.

My pleasure Malik, thank you for your kind comment.

Thank you DIY. Given your own prolific contribution of shop-tips on YT, your comment is deeply appreciated. Best.

I agree, it is safe, despite first appearances. I neglected to mention that running wide boards while they're still pretty wide helps with safety, and that gluing narrow boards together beforehand helps too. Thank you for commenting Robert.

Thank you Peter for your kind words. I'm glad you watched the whole video before expressing concern about the tie.

Hi Bob, Thanks so much for your kind words. I'm impressed by your thorough review of all the comments! Any questions, I should be able to answer by the next day's morning. Best, GF.

I love it when folks find some value in my videos and they write to tell me so. Thank you for letting me know! Auf Wiedersehen.

I so enjoy hearing someone found a video of mine useful. Thank you Aaron for saying it out loud, so to speak. Best of luck with your long strips.

Please see the Rockler Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig at: www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig which is a much safer way to get thin strips. Please!!

@@waynew7175 Not nearly as good, see my comment. I bought one, but made two others from other U tubers Robby

@@waynew7175 , that piece of crap ain't worth buying.

Hi Mike, Thanks for understanding; the tie is for making videos. You wouldn't want to see what I wear when actually working in the shop!

I agree. I was lucky to learn about this sort of jig from Jack Forsberg. Thank you for commenting and for your enthusiasm.

Thanks for your kind words, Carrie. Be sure to see Keith Clague's comments -- safety improvements on the basic design. Best of luck with your build!

@@georgefouriezos8863 I made this, and it is truly the absolute BEST thin rips jig ever! Thanks again!

@@carriep7812Thanks Carrie, I really appreciate your encouraging feedback. Best success in all your woodworking!

Thanks, Ever, for saying so. Be sure to see Keith's comments below to make the jig a little safer.

Very kind of you to say so, Frederick. Thank you for commenting.

Thank you Victor, your comment means a lot to me.

Yes, one regret is that the jig was already made when I decided to make its video; epoxied in place, the wedge could not be shown separately, so all I could do was to describe that the flat blade that was glued into the kerf. The jig's best feature, has to be that the fence stays put. Another design with that property, and which is simpler to build, is Izzy Swan's ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uXQncneobeI.html . His handles long and short lengths. The only feature missing from Izzy's is that you would lose the thickness setting between uses. I never make enough material at first, so keeping the setting between uses is needed. Thank you so much, Robert, for your generous comment; it's a +10, i.e., makes me want to put out 10 more videos!

Hi Tim, Have you seen Izzy Swan's thin rip jig? If one thickness is all you need, his jig is really fast to set up, and lets you rip piece after piece very quickly. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uXQncneobeI.html Thanks for commenting!

Please see the Rockler Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig at: www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig which is a much safer way to get thin strips. Please!!

Thank you Raul for taking the time to comment.

Thank you Fuerza Latina, very kind of you to leave a positive comment.

Thank you Ron for the endorsement!

Thanks Bill.

Thank you Wayne for taking the time to post an appreciative comment.

Benvenuto Creatore!

Thanks Art, always a treat to read an endorsement. I also like Izzy Swan's way of ripping thin stock, seen here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uXQncneobeI.html His is a faster set-up, by far, than the one in my video. One minor advantage over Izzy's is that mine holds its setting when you put it away. But does that justify the build time? Depends. Again, thanks for commenting!

I do love positive comments. Thank you LMR.

Thank you sir for your kind words.

Salut Olivier. It's true; once the strip is into the wedge then I use almost no force to keep the workpiece against the half fence (or against the straight side of the wedge) and almost all of it (although it's not much) in the forward direction. But I would consider adding a light featherboard or wheel on top at the end of the half fence. My muscle memory knows to keep a little down pressure on the workpiece, but a topside wheel wouldn't hurt. Now, how do you keep your bottles full when they're in the shop? ;)

For sure, an adjustable feather board would add some safety to the operation. I like the circular one -- is it called a porcupine? -- that looks really easy to adjust. Oh, and I do have a beautiful print tie; it's like a Cinderella scene with a coach and footmen in navy, sky, cream, and gold: a pattern you see in shop windows on Rue de Rivoli. I'll wear it in an upcoming video on clamping cauls. Thank you for commenting and your kind words Michael.

Hi Troy. I don't think the riving knife will be a problem. I expect it will register true on the left and be clear of the strip on the right. If anything the contact on the left should be helpful. The one (small) advantage of having a base that fits into the mitre slots is that you can remove the jig and have it keep its settings. To keep that feature with a fence mounted adaptation, maybe a removable, mitre-slot mounted stop would let the fence find its same position each time between uses. Regards to you and your fellow Mainians! (?)

@@georgefouriezos8863 Thanks, I hadn't thought keeping the settings between uses. Now I need to go watch the video you made strips for!

Hi D.R. Thank you for your encouraging words. I'm retired now, but yes I taught Statistics and Biological Psychology at the University of Ottawa for 31 years. Take a look at Keith Clague's comment on how he sustained a small injury and at the modifications he made to this jig to keep his fingertips safe. Again, thanks for commenting out loud, so to speak.

Hi Peter, I'm not sure I'm picturing your suggestion. Can you send me a link to a sketch or photo of what you have in mind?

Hi Malc, Have you seen Izzy Swan's rip jig? It works with short lengths, long ones too. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uXQncneobeI.html I racked and rolled my brain to come up with an advantage to mine, and the only thing I came up with is that mine keeps its setting between uses. Thanks for the positive comment!

Thank you for your enthusiastic comment Kenny.

That's a very interesting suggestion. A second longer fence could be installed for comparison. Can't say I'll be doing it right away, but it's definitely worth trying. Thanks, you've got me wondering....[Added next day:]...I changed my mind after having done some thinking. I think it's really important that the cut strip falls cleanly away from the blade. With overlap between the fence and blade, once the strip is free of the stock, the strip would no longer be pushed forward; it likely would sit there between the blade and fence, maybe even get jogged back a little because of the blade's rotation. I wondered too about only a little overlap, such that the overlap exists through to about halfway up the width (height) of the strip. Keep in mind the blade is a circle. With a careful positioning of the fence, the bottom of the strip might be in an overlapping area while the upper half has fence on one side but is above the teeth on the other. So it would still be attached to the stock, and still pushed forward somewhat. If carefully set, the strip would clear the fence (even while its bottom was against teeth) and fall away. But that is such dicey positioning with not much of a guarantee of a payoff that I don't think it worthwhile. Besides, if you had to raise the blade for a wider strip, then that fence would no longer work. I've made up my mind; let's not even try for any overlap between fence and blade.

Welcome Luca! I hope I live up to the expectations created by wearing a tie in my videos. :) I took a look at your channel, subscribed, and will be dedicating my evening to the enjoyment of your work. In 2001 my girlfriend and I toured Italy and loved everything Italian. We went back in 2003 to get married in the Town Hall of Siena. Viva Italia!

George, the tie is only another tool in a gentleman belt ;-) Great to hear that you enjoyed your time in Italy and even married here! If by chance you were to visit Sicily on the next trip, now you have a new friend to drink a glass of wine with. Thank you for subbing, i hope you will like something. Cheers !

Please see the Rockler Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig at: www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig which is a much safer way to get thin strips. Please!!

@@waynew7175 The problem with the Rockler jig, and all jigs like it, is the lack of consistency in the thickness of the cut strips. Yes, they'll be close to the required thickness, and if close enough is good enough for your purposes then those jigs are fine. The thickness of the strips in the Rockler jig depend on how much pressure you put on the fence against the jig. Should the wood just slightly touch the jig or should it be jammed against it? Can you do it the same way every time? I can't, so the strips vary in thickness. What I like about George's jig is that the fence is never moved - thereby guaranteeing strip that are as consistent as possible. I must admit I don't see the safety concerns that you seem to have.

@@JunkWorkshop Sorry JW, I saw your invitation only just now, two years after you posted. (I need to stop relying on notifications to see comments.) Sicily is on our short list of places to visit. It will be a while yet as the world is in a pandemic now, but I will give you a heads-up when we plan a trip to Sicily. Again, sorry for the delay in response.

Thank you for your thanks expressed in a comment. Best, GF.

@Fred Brinker Hi Fred, I have a notification about your question of 11 hours ago, but the internet is not letting me find it. My answer would be "I don't see how wedges could be made with this jig. If precise repetition isn't important, then maybe just using a hand plane on thin strips would work."

@@georgefouriezos8863 Thanks for the reply. I am wanting to make some shims and thought it may just work. Do you happen to have a shim making jig? If you do I for one would like to see how it works.

Hi Ashok, The jig can open to 3/8 of an inch or 9.5 mm. It would be possible to get a greater capacity just by replacing the moveable portion of the fence with a thinner board. Thanks for your interest and kind words.

My pleasure. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Hi Raul, I agree, it is not a good idea to wear a tie around power tools. But I wear the tie in the shop only when making RU-vid videos. It would be an even worse idea to make a video with what I wear when I am actually working in the shop! ;)

Hi Piet, I think you're right, the fence could be a little longer, but it must not overlap too much with the riving wedge. Mine is modeled after one that also used a half fence, so I just copied the design. The riving wedge is a _wedge_, a wedge that gets continuously fatter only on the fence side at its back end. So if the fence were too long, then the strip would get squeezed. But a little bit of overlap might be tolerated. I guess no one has done the empirical work to test different degrees of overlap. Interesting question! And Holland, go orange! Among my favourite countries.

It is a comment like this -- that someone is interested in the method -- that bring me the greatest satisfaction. Thank you for expressing your interest in writing! Best back to you W.Y.

Thanks WoodCrafter. Did you notice what I did with the tie when I ran the saw? I don't get out much these days, so my videos are my public appearances.

You're welcome Marcus. BTW, so far, my camera and tripod have not shredded any ties.

You gave me an idea for a video. Picture this: I lean over a spinning blade and the tie shreds to pieces. Cut to the next scene; it's a bow tie. Trouble is, I would have to be wearing a tie while working in the shop but I don't do that. The tie is for my RU-vid viewers, not for working in the shop. Thanks for commenting Robert.

Hey Murph, welcome! I dropped in on your channel and viewed your camera mount video. I was impressed with your wood chip catcher for the drill press, and with how you strengthened the tapped holes in construction lumber using CA adhesive. I'm going to enjoy being one of your subscribers, if not for the main points then for the side tips on how you do stuff. Best.

Please see the Rockler Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig at: www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig which is a much safer way to get thin strips. Please!!

No, it is exceptional. But it is not because of the shop. It's because RU-vid.

Hi Mr Matthews, Feel free to call me George. As much as I'd like to answer, I have tried neither thin rips on a bandsaw, nor have I pushed the limits of skinny on the table saw. I do get pretty good results down to 1/16th of an inch (1.6 mm). Saw marks come off with hand planing or sanding, so thinner than 1/16th can be achieved after the rips. I have not tried to get even thinner rips straight from the table saw. Now this is guesswork on my part, but a well tuned band saw with a sharp blade and a fence (without a special jig) should yield pretty good strips. They would need to be planed or sanded afterwards, but if bent laminations are the goal, it should work. Listen, let me wish you best luck and best skill in your woodworking adventures. George F.

Hello herbsu, I designed the riving knife for my 3D printer, so it was made in plastic by the printer. If you have access to a 3D printer, I can send you the source file (for OpenSCAD), the .stl file (for a slicer) or even the .gcode (for a Prusa i3 printer).

I made one by using plastic the same thickness as the saw kerf then laminating a second tapered piece to it. I located the tapered piece the thickness of the base board above the lower edge, thus forming a tenon to be glued into the baseboard.It works great and I have used it to cut 1400 ft of 3/16" strips 3/4" wide. each strip was between 7 and 10 ft long.

Hi Dudley, Thanks for your comment and your keen eye. For sure, had I spotted a bow I would have mentioned it and recommended a heftier fence, heftier hardware, or maybe both. Now it's been a while, so I can't be certain of this, but I think the third pile was made of the unused cards. Very ikely what happened is that I spotted the extras lying around loosely, consolidated them into a stack of their own, and slipped them into a handy slot where they would stay out of trouble. It's possible as well that I added the third pile as unnecessary, additional insurance. But no, I did not add the stack to correct for a bow. Thanks again for commenting, and for giving me the chance to explain the sudden appearance of a third stack of cards.

Hi Daniel Only one side flairs out, the other is flat. So the left side, which is in line with the left side of the blade, stays flat. It must stay flat since the workpiece uses it as a reference to its path. The right side gently tapers, narrow at the nose close to the blade, wider at the back. The taper pushes the freshly cut thin strip to the right, and thus adds a little tension keeping the workpiece against the flat left side until the strip is completely cut free.

You should watch my videos to see whether I did that.

Thanks for commenting, thisisofnouse.

Thank you, Old, for your comment and concern. You'll see me greet and say farewell wearing a tie -- out of respect for my RU-vid audience -- but not when operating anything in the shop. There is one instance where I briefly turned on the table saw with the tie on, but tucked the tie into my shirt beforehand. Tucking it away shows that I agree that loose clothes don't mix with power tools. Thanks again, Mr Codger.

Happy to bring a smile to your emoticon!

@@georgefouriezos8863 Thanks for a very informative piece. Your instructions, explanations and attention to detail was superb.

@@AAA-0 Thank you RKS. It is feedback like this that is not only encouraging but also guides me about what works and what doesn't. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Hi Bob, No, that's the beauty of the half-fence. There's no fence beside the blade, nothing to trap the cutoff. And the splitter is a wedge that pulls the cutoff away from the blade.

Yes, I think its best virtue is that the fence does not need to be re-positioned with each rip. But check out Izzy Swan's method for shorter lengths. Thanks for commenting Larry.

I've got a drawer full of ties left over from before retirement. Turns out they last forever. Making YT videos with them is just not wearing them out fast enough.

Hi Keith, I wish I had some practical experience with really long boards to draw on; three, four feet have been my longest, and I've hand-guided them. Nevertheless, I think the properties of half-fence jigs are fully compatible with feather boards. If the lateral feather board lets go just before the end of the half fence, the down one too, it should be fine as far as getting good quality strips. I don't see any danger either, presuming underneath support on the outfeed side. Best success with this! Hang on, just thought of this: One nuisance is that the side feather board would have to be re-positioned between cuts, thereby killing one of the best features of the half fence, that of feeding cut after cut without re-adjusting anything. That's the only downside, I think.

@@georgefouriezos8863 George, thanks for such a prompt reply and the benefit of your experience. I have used half fences in the past but not with featherboards and, to ensure good stripping, I am prepared to keep altering the featherboard. As I will be stripping 6 off 11.5"x 6 ft boards and scarf jointing them I will do each of the boards then reset the featherboard thus reducing the number of adjustments by a factor of 6. I'm more interested in doing it safely and getting a consistent 3/16" strip so I'll tolerate the inconvenience of shifting the featherboard. Thanks again for your help, its much appreciated.

Hi Keith, Well I was going to wish you good luck with your rips, but with that kind of thoughtful planning, you won't need it. Still, best wishes. And let me know if you're posting your progress or results on the web someplace.

@@georgefouriezos8863 George, I want to thank you for posting your video, I built the jig and today completed cutting 1400 feet of 3/16" strips. A mix of 1/2" and 3/4" wide. 1200 ft of mahogany and 200 ft of pine. I made a couple of modifications: The first was to bolt the jig to my table saw as it does not have a channel in the surface. It is located by cleats on the side and end and screwed down, it does not move. The second mod, borne out of necessity and fear, was to add a clear polycarbonate guard over the exposed blade. I gave myself an unwanted and unplanned manicure when cutting the last strip of the last board of the day. I was tired, overconfident and probably had summit fever. I lost concentration when my push stick slipped and while recovering the situation the blade came through the side of the thin strip and removed a small chunk of nail and skin. Just a scratch but a real wake-up call. I've had the saw for 35 years and managed not to do that before. The offcut from the last strip had a slight roundover that had been the edge of the bench surface from which I'd salvaged the mahogany. It also had a slight thinning at that point so the combination gave the scope for the blade to just pierce the side of the strip. I felt three tugs in the millisecond of contact, so that would be 3 teeth kissing my finger! For your information, the mahogany strips were mostly 7-8 ft long with the pine being 12' 10" long. The jig worked great for the mahogany but less so for the pine. The softer pine seemed to vibrate more and, with the longer length, the strip went walkabout as it curved away from the splitter. So, if you try cutting long strips, make sure there is a wide arc of clear space to accommodate the strip as it bends and vanishes off into the distance. I tried using a horizontal feather board as well as a vertical one but found it created too much friction. The jig is ideal as you presented it and doesn't need the extra featherboard but would benefit from a blade guard. SOrry if all this is a bit rambling, i don't know how to edit it on the page. You asked if I was going to post progress pictures, I don't know how to but I can handle e-mail so if you send me your e-mail address to keithclague@gmail.com , I'll send some pics. I like your antiracking device, I have one made from a stack of 1 mm thick plastic cards, similar to credit cards but no embossed letters. I like the way you have so few but add them together to get what you require. I used some of the cards from mine to set the 3/16" gap on the ripping jig ., Thanks again Keith

@@keithclague4403 Dear Keith: The better the comment, the longer it takes me to respond. For now I'll just pin yours to the top. Email forthcoming. Thank you so much for relating your experience with the jig! You had me at 1400.

I recommend you do not. Put on a tie to make videos, but not to work in a shop.

Thanks Greg, I'm glad you liked the jig.

I know what a kluge is: it's my programming language!

The necktie is for public appearances in videos, not for working in the shop. You don't want to see what I wear when actually working in the shop.

@@georgefouriezos8863 I figured as much ! great video!

Nope. While making a video.

True enough, but in only one instance on camera did I wear a tie while operating a power tool, and even in that sole occasion, I tucked the tie into my shirt. See if you can find it. I wear the tie to greet and to say goodbye to my RU-vid viewers, but never when actually working in the shop.

Was it spinning?

Hi Sam, You should watch the videos. You'll see what I do with ties when power equipment is turned on.