I really don't get why companies are not selling these. Literally everyone needs these bended pieces. Cutting those further would be no issue, but preparing them from scratch is really time consuming and somewhat complex. Great video, thanks for sharing!
Chris, did you consider turning the heat gun 90 degrees flat and only heat the groove areas and not the middle? I noticed the front rounded some instead of staying flat.
I work for a flooring store and our installers won’t even attempt this. I want to try this method for my house and get it down like you. I could make custom pieces for customers who want treads but don’t like the price or don’t like the bulky trip hazard vinyl stair nose. Thank you for the video!
@oh_look_bananas I hope you can get it done! You'll do well if you can use it to your advantage, it's definitely a great way to make the floor look cleaner on the stairs!
Many thanks! Well done. Unfortunately, I do have a question. Would you glue the very first "nose plank" which leads into the stairs and basically is still part of the floating floor on the upper level?
@@d.a.veneziano9651 I use scrap pieces to check the angles and then install. I've also used a square to check angles being open or closed, then use point to point measure.
I did this after watching a ton of videos. Your video is the best. It takes a lot of screwing around to find the correct spot for the dados and the depth. I found 3/8 dado way too wide and was comprising the strength of the piece. I dumbed it down to about 1/4 and it worked great. Great video! Thanks
@bfboom22 the joint is very tight, glue in that area wouldn't have any benefit. We do glue the surface well and leave the material thickness strong enough on the bend to avoid breaking.
One box i split all ten. Just cant get the datos in the correct spot or something. Tried the bigger even tried removing whole in-between the bends lol 😅 just opened second box hoping to get it right this time.
For a bullnose on 1" thick tread, with cork backing(nucore) , would you route/dado out a full 1-1/4" for the radius? I guess the PU glue will fill the slight gap at top edge where cork starts?wouldn't want a void to crack when stepped on.
I've watched a bunch of clips and yours is on the money. I was going to route but the dado looks so much easier, your jig is the best and from your thumbnail, I'm thinking I like the white riser better than continuing the vinyl. Thanks a lot, pal!
@rkruts5667 all vinyl flooring has a slickness, but the matte finish flooring does do well. Think of a hardwood stair, people used to do a shiny finish on stairs. Perhaps just do a runner if you're really worried.
How can you finish stairs that are open on the sides as well? The bottom 3 steps in my house have open sides and spindles. I would need to fabricate a corner or some kind of edge trim.
OMG there just have to be a simpler way guys ! can you imagine having to do 15 + of these noses. Cant manufacturers come up with a better idea ? perhaps they could already put in the grooves where they need to bend at least
@geoffbucks5803 some companies make a decent nose, but many do not. It's all about the finish, the end result is always worth it. I will add that once you setup the first and get it right, you'll move very fast thru the rest. 2 or 3hrs tops for a whole flight of stairs. Not bad in my professional opinion.
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmer As you noted, some manufactures provide treads with a nosing. Some will also provide a separate nosing that is attached to the tread. And one flooring place I dealt with will make a custom nosing for what ever vinyl floor you purchase. But they were pretty pricey. Thanks for sharing your method. Much appreciated.
I like the idea of the table saw. What i eneded up doing was buying a 45 degree router bit and routed out the back for my bend. I had to do this for my kitchen edge that dropped into my family room. I am debating on tackling my stairs next. I think what has held me back is the bottom 4 stairs are exposed on the side.
You earned my subscription. Thank you so much. I was not only able to bend for my stairs but also for a weird transition in between rooms. With a three inch drop.
@je9700 good question, but it's not. Use a good amount of adhesive there plus the durability is test for vinyl is actually done on that top thing layer. It holds up surprisingly well. We have stairs 3+ years old, no issues.
OMG! Must share that you are truly a genius! You just saved me so much $$$. Those pieces are soooo expensive at the retail store. I just subscribed to your channel to learn from your other projects. Keep up the amazing work!!
please I have a question regarding the stringers. my installers used glue down vinyl plank on the stringers then capped it with a metal capping on the corner seams. It looks so tacky. Is it not possible to cut the nosing be lengthwise and run it down the stringer? It would look so much better than a metal cap that does not even match in any way what so ever the plank. Also, they used a silicone on the steps at the side seams... would this not have a deteriate effect over time just as it does around the toilet and sinks?
@Canuklhead silicone needs the water to make that effect happen, but yes it will wear down. A nose on the tread is good for keeping the tread depth deeper and more area to step on. Sorry about your luck, perhaps ask them to redo it.
Thanks so much! You've just saved my ass.. I was using the router but still having issues with splitting but after watching your video and switching to the table saw problems solved. Thx
Looks great! I have to make these but have a few stairs that are open on one or both ends. I'm not sure how to improvise to avoid the after market bull nose pieces.
I have a new video on stair caps, and it's essentially the same process, expect you need to add a piece of flooring to cover the remaining depth as your flooring is typically 7 to 9" wide
Do you think this method would work with a spc product? just had 13 stair noses arrive wrong dye lot for a job in two days and trying to figure something out.
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmerI'm glad to hear it should work with SPC, as I haven't seen much LVP on the market here lately. Will give it a try on some samples! Thanks for a great video.
This is a typical basement stair, 99% of all stairs are made with 2x lumber. For a 2nd floor you typically see hardwood stairs the size you noted. But if they are carpet, you will 100% see 2x 👍
Just got home with 1200sq ft of flooring and was so discouraged with the nosing option they sold us, this is amazing and so much better. Great video, thanks!!! This ok to do with SPC?
My stair case is open to one side. Do you think this method would work if I mitered a 45 and had the tread wrap around over the skirt board? Not sure if this vinyl will seat properly at a 45
Open sided staircases are typically hardwood. I don't think I would do a vinyl cap, but all you can do is try. I might suggest doing the ends as separate pieces.
Copying this set up right now! I have 14 steps to do 😢 making 2 jigs to try to go faster. A question I have. The piece of flooring that is sandwiched in between the 2x6 and plywood is 1 inch down from the top of the 2x6. How about the plywood tho? How high is it from the top of the 2x6? Looks like 1/2 an inch??
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmer nice It works! First few test pieces cracked, played around with the dado sizes and dado midpoints. Stairnoses are now coming out clean! Another issue I'm running into now is getting a nice tight fit on the walls/skirt, as they are not perfect 90s. I beveled my length cuts, and it helped some, but still needs fine tuning. Do you cut to length before or after the nosing bend?
Hi Chris, when you glue your treads, riser and bull nose pieces on what looks like lifeproof from HD, do you scrape the backing off. I have seen this in other videos and wondering if PL400 will work just fine instead of contact cement?
fyi, there's a product called Durastair that's now on the market (Lowes carries it) where the nose (square) is already made. Only challenge may come when you install it over the existing stair nose if it extends out to far, in which case you would have to trim/cut back the existing stair nose. I'm about to install it myself. 😃
Awesome video, I am doing a whole house that has the split landing, I think I am going to have to lay out the whole floor based of the first nosing otherwise it won't click together. Any ideas? Thanks
hey chris, i had carpeting on my steps & researching to install lifeproof home dept. the other videos show cutting off the 1.50 inch overhang, than install mdf for the riser. I would rather not cut off the 1.50 inch overhang & use your method with 1/4 inch birch riser painted + installed. ( I already have the birch) what are your thoughts ??
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmer do u think I can use the 1/4 inch thick riser - or install thicker risers? i already have 1/4 inch birch here? what is the purpose of having a thicker riser? I do not mind buying a thicker board, just trying to understand why & what purpose thicker risers serve? the current system has worked fine for years with carpet. >> I bought my heat gun tonite & did a few scrap test piece bends. thanks again for your help !
@tomrasmussen3990 personally I use 1/4" MDF for painted risers. Thicker would only be needed of the original riser is toast. Thin is fine, it's a decorative cover 👍
Hey Chris! Thanks for sharing - super cool! Question: this is great in a perfect world when everything is straight on both sides of kickboards, however, what happens when you have to deal with angles on the kickboards. Meaning, how do you trim the custom stairnose to fit perfectly on both sides? hope that makes sense.
Thanks for the comment! In regards to the angles, using off cuts and squares allow me to take a perfect measure on angles and scribes. Hope this makes sense, I will have a great video on stair caps coming soon!
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmer Thanks! I assume it would be best to take the measurement with the lvp on the stair first and then make a stairnose out of it? What I am getting at is you can not make a custom lvp stairnose first without measuring both sides of the kickboards. If you just make a custom stairnose you would then have to cut it to fit on both sides and thats where I was curious as to how to flush both sides up after the stairnose is made?
@Scottbarnesmarketing I make my custom nosing for the whole stair, making sure they are longer than the tread and then I cut and measure each to every stair for the perfect fit.
Thankyou for the advice. I had a go at this today and took me ages to do one piece only to find the laminate ripped after I heated and tried to bend. I only have basic equipment so will try and find a bench saw to add grooves so it’s easier to bend
Oh quick question, my stairs have a rounded bullnose edge. What would you advise ? Router the whole area of the bullnose to enable bending or make several passes and using the gaps to have a concertina effect so it still maintains some sturdiness but is less prone to stress breaks? Thanks Michelle
Is this glue down flooring? I’m noticing that on the flooring I am trying to use it almost had like a very thin top layer that gives the plank its wood look. Your boards look as if the wood texture is part of the vinyl? What type of flooring are you using?
Done alot of these for clients. Dado is a must. Even with the dado I get the odd stress fractures on the ends. I think my radius on the jigs needed to be tweaked a bit more
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmer Is the shorter ply on the front help at all for the bend. I have just one 1 1/2 inch bend so you can get more heat directed to the bend area. My trends are overhanging a mere 5/8. So I dint need the short bend . Yet I think my front 2x4 is the same height as the back one. I do have a radius i made with my router for the bend on the back 2x4 for the roll over. Man Ive probably done 50 of these over the last while, this issue I believe is the fact the LVP is a thinner version. Getting cracking on the outside edges . Dado is 3/8
@@HandcraftedbyChrisPalmer thanks for the reply. It’s a very thin pad on the bottom. I have a huge success with the thicker LVP. Like lifeproof etc. These thinner LVP are harder to not crack.
Haven't done stairs like this before and I didn't know if there was a work around for thiis situation . You're stupid if you don't ask questions and only a pretentious prick would comment like that.
If you look at some nosing, if not almost all of them they are not as good. Plus these will save you the time of having to cut off all the nosings. When you get everything setup you'll be a couple hours to do a whole flight.
@@stephenhouck7232 I don't have this problem at all and have dogs running up and down the stairs as well so I guess that makes me a genius then right. Lol
@Yancree305 you have to find a company that makes them, it's not that easy bud. Each flooring company makes certain trims. There's even companies that don't make any, very annoying.
