Ever since I laid my eyes on that Festool drill I feel like my drills (Dewalt) are a piece of crap. I know it’s underpowered but my word…that low profile form factor. 🤗
Thank you for sharing! I learned a ton from this. Not just about the 30-60-90 top, but also about bench super dogs, why you mught want longer ones, and even learned a cool trick where you had the pencil in the square to draw a line! Thank you!
Hallo Peter. Very informative video. I presume that if I wanted to also cut 45 degrees, I would have to overlay the usual pattern over the isometric one? Is it possible to do without ruining something? Thank you, Barbara
Hi Jim, I am keeping this top on my MFT3 and will replace with the same Isometric layout if need be. My tracksaw cutting station, which is larger than the MFT3, will retain its square layout. Gosh, how I wish I had hit on this idea years ago. Cheers. Peter
The alan key that hold the cutter bit for the mft worktop, has become stuck so i can't move on to make my mft table. I think it's the 20mm bit that i can't move to the next hole acroos. Any advice ?
Hi David, I am confused (normal these days) - do you mean the depth stop ring on the 20 mm cutter? If in doubt contact Axminster or your PGS supplier. Peter
Hello Peter. Great video. I have just recently purchased the Parf. Dog Guide System. I intend to only partially drill the table top. I will however, mix the holes between the 90/45 degree and 30/60/120 degree configurations. Thank you for the video Peter, Spot-On. PARRRFECT. Sorry for that Peter just couldn't resist it!
looking forwards to the 30, 45, 60, 90 combo top. If it were just for cutting and not assembly, there should be a suitable layout that would be usable. And as you said in another post, 22.5 would be the next angle.
Nuts Mc Flurry you can do 45 degrees with this table. Every other row, or if you like the points of the diamonds, line up across the table so if you in one hole and go back and up two or four spaces you will have a 45 degree angle. 22.5 should be four back and two up or two back and four up would be 77.2. Please disregard and see if the following message for clarification.
I made a small error in calculation let me just say that if you do it as somebody else commented by doing part of your table in this layout and the other part in the standard layout then you can achieve the angles that I talked about. To error is human and I am human after all. Good luck to you in all of your future endeavors.
Thank you Peter. You are a true genius. I'm sure many of us watching will be saying to ourselves - that's obvious! But.. you did it and showed us how, with both the Parf System and this latest, brilliant, solution.
Just work it out - to get a new MFT3 top is probably $70 or more. To get one made at "mate's rates" is going to be at least $40. With the PGS you can make as many tops as you like and they will be superbly accurate - see this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4phL-LKM2lg.html I use 18 mm Medite MR MDF for my tops and they get beaten up over a year so I just replace them. Peter
I have shown this in many videos. You can use a block of wood as a stop. held in place with a clamp or you can use the Axminster stop and fence system. Peter
Hi Samuel, With the Festool TS55 you can adjust the cutting depth to just over the thickness of the wood that you are cutting. The cut is perfect and the top of the cutting station is hardly damaged. Peter
To add 45 degree capability (if this doesn't provide for it), could you just drill the rectilinear pattern on the table as well, or at least part of it if some of the holes would overlap?
I didn't think of that - just so that one person could easily get access from all sides without having to unclamp and re-clamp. -But yes, having a large table for junior students could probably be hexagonal (and you can also extend it if need be).
Another very enjoyable and useful video. Thank you for sharing your new table. I suggest adding a smackle of honey in your tea or a shot of Jamison’s to restore you voice. Take care my friend!
Pay a decent chunk for a good jig and then later essentially get a free no parts, idea only, upgrade from the designer. Not damn bad. Anyone think of a reason not to always do this layout instead of the old square design?
You can have parts of both on the same top. I am going to start work on a new video that shows a new tracksaw cutting station with both layouts so 30, 45, 60 and 90 degrees will be possible on the same top. Peter
Since the sine of 30° and the thus the cosine of 60° is 0.5 it should be possible to cut 30° and 60° with the normal grid, aren't those accurate enough?
Hi Stefan, Yes you can but it will not give exact 30 or 60 degrees as a weird combination of row and column count is required.. The problem with your suggestion is that both sin and cos require measuring along an hypotenuse but the 96 mm spacing is on the rows and columns. However, an Isometric top is easy to make and gives more possibilities for dog positioning and also for setting up jigs that require 30 , 60 or 90 degree included angles. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter, somehow I totally missed the "require measuring along the hypotenuse" part with sin&cos. :/ To get 30° on a square based grid you would need the tangent of 30° (or 60°), which requires sqrt(3)... Sorry for the noise, Stefan
@@stefanklein7500 I have had the same thinking as you until I understood that everything is solved by off setting the whole grid by 30°. Thank you for also making me understand it ;)
Peter. i have sent you two requests for plans and the comments have immediately disappeared. i wonder if there is a RU-vid policy to delete comments containing emails?
Hi Graham, Yes, they do have a policy like that. In order to get plans I need your email address. To find my email address go to my main RU-vid page, click the "About" tab and that leads to my email address. I am told this has to be done on a PC. Cheers. Peter
Peter, is it OK to use tmelamine-faced MDF to create an MFT top, or will the melamine damage the 3mm drill bit and/or the 20 mm cutter? Medite is not available here in Australia, and Valchromat is really expensive, so I thought melamine-faced MR MDF might work. I don't want to damage the bits, though!
Hello Peter. I've been drilling holes for days now it seems. Just a quick question. As my top is from Baltic Birch, I'm assuming the chamfer tool that's available won't work in my application? I would assume then that I need to use a router to each hole to add the chamfer? Cheers.
Hi Peter, You may have covered this elsewhere. I have created two MFT tops, one traditional and one isometric with the Parf Guide Mark 2. It is a brilliant piece of kit. I also treated my MDF blanks with Osmo Polyx on top, bottom and sides. I am getting a bit of blowout on the bottom surface of the MFT top.....is there any advice you can give me to minimize this in case I ever turn the tops over? Thanks in advance and kudos to you for a great set of videos and for inventing some wonderful jigs.
Hi Jose, You can do a very shallow cut on the underside after the 3 mm holes are drilled. This is only usually necessary with plywood. If you are getting breakout with good quality MDF then you should not push quite so hard when the drill bit is about to go through. It will take about 5 or 6 holes to know when to relax the pressure. You should also check how efficient your vacuum is as poor vacuuming during the 20 mm drilling can cause all sorts of problems. Peter
I have this system but have not had the need until now to make the isometric top. I’m trying to cut out hexagonal backings (the boxes are 50cm from farthest points of the hexagon)to hexagonal boxes. How would you gang cut multiples?
Hi Nathan, I have cut several pieces at one time quite often but you do have to be careful. Generally, good quality sheet material will tend to stay is the same place relative to each other as long as you do not apply any lateral force. For your application I assume that you will be making several cuts for each group of pieces and so it may be quite tricky. If there were places withing the shape that will not be seen when finished then you could screw the pieces together. An alternative approach may be to take each of your pieces and perform operation number one on them all. Then set up a stop to get operation two just right and do all the pieces. Repeat until all the cuts are made. This may be more operations than you hoped but it will remove much of the risk of error and the need to put in screws. Good luck. Peter
This looks really clever and elaborate however seems very labour intensive. Would you not be better doing a quick cad drawing and have a local CNC business produce this? I've looked the price of this up and I cannot imagine it is cost effective.
Hi Scott, I have friends who need to make several tops a month for their workers to use. They get left on site or in the rain and also go missing ! I replace my track saw cutting station top about every 12 months and my MFT3 top gets replaced about every 18 months. Woodworking CNC machines are not as accurate as the metal working ones and do not always produce results as accurate as that from the PGS. So, in the long term the PGS is more cost effective and can be more accurate. Peter
Peter given the MkII allows for 32 and 48mm spacings do you think you could now achieve other angles like 22.5 degrees ect. Is there any scope to revisit this with the MKII?
Very interesting video again Peter. Thank you for taking the time to do this and to share with us :) You've started at 69.5mm center from the edge. Is that just for this demonstration or a standard measurement? I thought most MFT use 81mm center from edges
Hi Marcus, I tried to get everything symmetrical left to right. However, for the fore and aft direction I wanted to ensure that the extra pair of holes (the final ones that I made) cleared the 16 mm flange on the MFT3 but also allowed the one furthest away from the operator a little more space as this helps to avoid having the TS55 hitting a Parf Super Dog with certain types of cut. Cheers. Peter
Thanks peter for the idea, I’m still waiting for my parf guide II as it is currently out of stock for my mark II bench top so it is nice to know all the options before holes is drilled. I have a large bench and allocate 160X60 of it for parf drilling. And what do you think if I split that area into two so I can have all the possible angle cutting capability ?
I am not sure what dimensions the 160x60 is in - perhaps cms or inches. But your plan sounds okay. The new PGS Mark 2 is about to come off the production lie within a day or two and then only needs a couple of days to go through the checks before packing and dispatch. So it will not be long. Good luck. Peter
I've watched a number of Parf guide videos (Matt Estlea's videos were the reason I got interested). I have one suggestion for all Parf guide users: Instead of measuring from the edges when placing your initial two holes, why not go in a few millimeters further first, then when you've drilled *all* your holes, you use the Parf guide system with your tracksaw to cut the edges so they're precisely 90 degrees on your dog holes ?
Hi Will, It will cut into the top of the work surface - it is designed to do this as it then leaves a very clean edge. If you cut with air beneath the stock you will get some breakout. This is why the sacrificial tops of benches are so important and the ability to replace them quickly and cheaply (using the PGS) has become commonplace. Peter
Hi Jeff, I am working on that right now having just built a shed which required loads of 30 deg and 60 deg cuts. I will put it on my list of "to-do" videos. Cheers. Peter
Love this one Peter.I have produced and used a few of the stock standard version, and they are great.The isometric version has me thinking it could also be useful.However I don't use the festool MFT3. I use quarter sheets mounted on bench cookies for lightweight very portable MF tops, similar to Dave Stanton's.So what distance in from the edge would suit the first hole, still 68mm ?Cheers..
Hi Bluey, I would just centre the pattern on your sheet. The distance through the hole centres between rows is 83.1 mm. The distance between columns through their centres is 48 mm. So with that you should be able to see how many rows and columns your sheet will take and then centre it as you wish. Good luck. Peter
Just stumbled onto this vid. Father’s Day is Sunday here in Aus. Been trying to justify this purchase. Any chance of a beginners list of accessories to get the most out of this system straight away? Would anyone recommend this system to someone who has NO Festool anything?
Hi Dare, You can make a custom bench top using the system which might be as simple as a slab of MDF which you put on a pair of trestles. You do not need a track saw as you can use a normal circular saw against a straight edge. The straight edge can be made of anything you like as long as it is straight. The only other thing that you will need will be some bench dogs - a pair of tall ones against which the straight edge will be pushed and 3 or 4 short ones against which the wood to be cut will be pushed. Good luck and Happy Fathers' Day. Peter
I didn't see any spacer dogs used to raise the workpiece of the MFT. When you cut directly on the MFT I also didn't see any damage to the MFT. how is that achieved please?
@@NewBritWorkshop hi, I meant when you use the track saw, was there spacer dogs between the workpiece and the MFT? Or how did you set the depth of cut?
Hi Dave, With a standard top you can get close to 30 and 60 degrees but not spot on. I have not looked at the Isometric layout closely. Clearly one can get 30, 60 and 90 degrees but I think that 45 and 22.5 degrees will be difficult to find. Peter
Hi Peter, I used your UJK Guide System last week and loved it. I await your next video as you work out how to reincorporate the 45 degree ability back into a top along with this isometric design....
Hello Peter, today I made my 3rd bench top. This time I made your isometric top. Love it!!! Thanks so much for making my life so easy. I can use my TS55 and no other tool/machinery for basically every task. I have a question about some accessories. Do you have any plan to make fence dogs? A company in Uk (I am sure you know them) were not able to tell me if the Parf holes are compatible with their dogs. I am currently using a t-track to move my pieces under saw track because I am ripping thin stock. Yes, I do not want to use a table saw! But instead of anchoring the t-track to underneath dogs with hex bolt I would prefer to use fence dogs. Any plan for additional accessories? By the way, I have the orange clips and all possible Parf dogs you can think of. Love them all! I made my table so versatile! Keep on creating!
New Brit Workshop I wish you are working on fence dogs and very simple dogs with no ring (super dogs are great but too expensive to hold a t-track fence). Dogs are great to square and cut but when I am ripping thin stock I better use a fence and a jig . Understood that I should use s table saw but I cannot. Hoping to see more tips and trick on use of dogs/jigs created with the Parf Sys.
+New Brit Workshop sorry for small offtopic, i will try to explain as best as i can, do you have any method of adjusting those stop blocks at the ends of the material? lets say for example that i want to create 10 repetitive cuts at 90degrees, and I want to add the stopblock to the end of the material (parallel to the guide rail) - for example like cutting kitchen cabinets doors to the identical height, from what i see when youre using those dogs at the end of the material to lock it, you doesnt have that possiblity to microadjustment stop block at the end because of the distance of the holes, so do you skilled wodworkers over there have some great solution for that? thank in advance for respond.
Bonjour,jaurais voulu faire un plateau comme celui la, mais je nai pas tout ce materiel.En tout cas merci pour vos explications très claires malgré la langue jai compris le principe vraiment genial et le matériel festool est super ingénieux et efficace.Merci.
Hi Peter I am just about to get the Parf Guide System 2 and have just seen this isometric video. I am going to create the isometric pattern but just wanted to check that if I used the 32 holes on the parf sticks for the off set holes will the cut line be between the holes. I hope this make sense
@@NewBritWorkshop Sorry he goes!! With the isometric pattern I assume that the holes on each row are moved over by 48mm so therefore in the centre of the holes below if you eye through the columns. So which ever holes used for the dogs to run the guide rail against the saw cut line would always cut through some holes. My thinking was that the 32mm off set on parf guide is a third of 96mm so therefore the cut line of the saw would then miss all of the holes. I haven't got the guide yet so this is a bit of guess work just looking at all your videos. Note this is while making 90 deg cuts
Hi Graham, Your cut line will be determined by the two holes used for your tall dogs. You can adjust the position of these using the offset feature (32 mm or 48 mm) to get that cut line where u=you want it. I hope that this helps. Peter
Thanks for that Peter, I'm just in the middle of making a storage bench under my mft, this will be a great addition, I was going to use my parf system for another square set up, but this will add a new dimension.
Hi Peter, My Isometric top is now a permanent fixture in the MFT3. I still keep looking at the hexagon that I made and cannot believe how sharp the joints are. Cheers. Peter
It is up to you. The standard design is perfect for 90 degree and 45 degree cuts. The isometric one has the added advantage of 30 degree and 60 degree cuts but without 45 degrees. Peter
Hi Robert, Go to the Axminster web site. You can order in most currencies and delivery is very inexpensive. www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technology-parf-guide-system-mkii-104779 Peter
As always Peter , perfect explanation , really wood os with you, always doing the best possible service , admirable seeing tou work with wood became Very perfect ,first world thing i love your videos and your tips thank you dear.
Fiddlesticks Peter. I have only just done a new 90 degree table and now I want a 30/60/90 table. Oh well, just makes the purchase of the PARF Guide system even more worthwhile. Thanks for the great videos. Been following a while and always learn something (as well as ending up popping into Axminster on the way home too). Keep up the good work.
Hi Peter. My local one to home is the Wycombe branch on the Cressex Business Park. I often, as it's a minor detour, pop into the Basingstoke store on my way home from work though :) Both are great and often if Basingstoke is missing an item I want then Wycombe has it and vice versa :) Pretty lucky to have two so accessible I guess :)
Hi George, If I were just a few years younger I would be knocking on their door as they are such a great company and everyone that I have met from the company have been so kind and considerate. Peter
You didn’t mention 45, 22.5, or 77.5 digress which are all possible with this table.for 45 once you put in first dog count back two and up two. For 22.5 four back from first dog and two up. For 77.5 change it to two back and four up. I have to edit this because I realize that I didn’t even cover all the angles possible. If you were use your guide system to make two more holes for 90° track cuts near the front rather then the middle, then if you go up on the diagonal one row you’re at 60 staying in that row going back one more 30 back one more 15 and for every hold on that row you change the angle. At two rows, if you go back one it’s 77.5 and if you go back two, you are at 45° and for every hole after that you change the the angle. I’d have to sit down and think about it to come up with all the possible angles you have created with this tabletop design it’s really quite amazing.
Hi Duane, I am not sure about this as I have previously drawn a blank on 45 degrees and 22.5 degrees on an Isometric top. It is easy to get 45 degrees on a regular top created with the PGS. Cheers. Peter
New Brit Workshop not on your layout but it’s basic geometry. If the short leg of a right triangle is 1/2 the length of the hypotenuse it is a 30° angle making the other angle across from the long side 60° because The total of the angles in a triangle must be 180°. If you have a 45° angle in a right triangle the two sides must be the same length therefore if you cut the length of one of the two sides in half you cut the angle in half thus resulting in 22.5°. In an equilateral triangle if you drop a perpendicular from the center of a side it will go directly through the point at the other side splitting the angle in half and you will create two right triangles that are equal in size and shape. If I could remember it off the top of my head I could figure out the sine and cosine for all the angles but my last math class was Calc two and I’m really rusty on geometry. That’s why I didn’t realize how many angles were available at first on your layout.
Great video and great system you've made. I've wondered for a long time why you've chosen 96mm spacing instead of - say - 100mm spacing between centers. (I first expected 100mm between centers, so the holes can be used as "rough rulers" but also so that you can easily/quickly divide in 10cm steps). I'm sorry if this question has been asked already, but is there an advantage that may not be obvious ?
The 96 mm is part of the Euro standard for various things. There are things that rely on 32 mm, 48 mm and 96 mm spacing especially in the kitchen fitting and cabinet making businesses. I fully understand the simplicity of 10 mm spacing but the 96 mm has some additional advantages. Peter
The 96mm thing is really a piece of European construction (edit) obtuseness. It is approximately 3 3/4 inches (3.77953) but not quite. Thanks America and the New World Order.. jk.. We metric persons tout the wondrous simplicity of x10. Then we discover engineering and building products where adominable metric approximations of Imperial / Retardi-Standard, measurements abound. Yep 3 3/4 inch or 100mm split the difference and you get 2mm or ~5/64". (True but recounted in the manner of a joke) Make sense? Nope....
@kadmow - I don't see the purpose of your post. Noone can say exactly how big one foot, one inch, one centimeter or one millimeter is. It's all been changed over time. In order to qualify for ranting, you should really invent a new measuring system that everyone would adopt. Impossible ? no. Difficult ? yes.
@@68HC060 . Thanks... no need for new standards... we can just metricize Imperial ones -with some variation (so everyone has to buy our new gear).. cheers again... Sorry if my humour was too dry in the last post... ok It wasn't funny I get it.... NB. the Metre has been standardised for quite some time now..
The isometric feature of the parf guide really surprised me. Great job! I guess the real question is, is there anything the parf guide can’t do? Cheers! -Erik
Hi Adam, In order to get plans or to contact me via email I need your email address. RU-vid no longer has a private messaging service and so in order to get in touch you need to place a comment on this or any other video with your email address. The RU-vid software should identify and send it to the spam folder for The New Brit Workshop. Nobody will be able to see your email address except you and me. I will then delete your comment so that it does not end up in the public domain and I will then send the plans. Were we to do this the other way around then my comment, with my email address, would appear for all the world to see. Peter
If in the end you are going to use waste wood to avoid cutting the table why not doing the same with some 5 mm aluminium sheet instead of wood? Like a welding table, it'll sure last a lot longer.
Yes, but you are already using sacrificial wood and if you weld you can use the same table. Just an idea.. Not trying to say what you are doing is wrong.
Hi Aeneas, It is very difficult to get royalty free music and so 2 years ago I decided to buy a keyboard. All of the music is stuff that I have made up in order to avoid any danger of copyright infringement. I do not push the music, I know that I am an awful player but it is fun. By the way, I have written a song for Gerry Marsden (Gerry and the Pacemakers) which he has performed on UK TV - if I were to play that tune it would be rubbish but he made an excellent job of it. Peter
Congratulations, you have a CNC but most ordinary people do not. The Parf Guide System costs about 3% of that of a decent CNC so it provides an affordable route for the majority. Peter
New Brit Workshop I appreciate your target audience is the wood hobbyist and that you make videos to promote festool and Axminster tools. I’d argue that the isometric mft top was a lot of work for little gain as it’s the sort of thing that may get used a few times (for the 30/60 angles ) and it’s a very easy item to produce on a cnc , As you pointed out not everyone has one but a hobbyist etc could easily commission one at a reasonable cost certainly much less that festool would charge . I’ve watched a few of your videos now and I like your clear concise style but sometimes your obligations to your patrons marr a good topic
My patrons are my 34,000 subscribers and they are my priority. I have to have material and Festool, 3M, Dewalt, Trend, Lee Valley, Thule, Karcher, Timbersource, Hitachi, Axminster, Wacom, Onduline, Osmo, Bessey, Roberts Radio and many others make the kit that I buy or borrow in order to make videos. Peter
Hi Monk, I sympathise with you over the music - I have to guarantee to RU-vid that my music is royalty free and that I have the performer's and composer's permission. So, the simplest way is for me to make up a bit of random music and play it myself. My playing is a little better when I play Beatles stuff ! Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Why not simply go with no music. Would be better than the score created by a cat walking along a keyboard composition. Was also louder than your narration and spoiled an otherwise excellent video
I just got some of those UJK clips and am a little disappointed at how sloppy the whole thing is. It's very easy to put slight pressure on the track which easily pulls the dogs wonky, moving the tracking +- a mm or so
They should not be sloppy at all. If you are using a dog with a 20 mm diameter on the upper shaft and a Festool guide rail you should have a good fit unless the springs have been stretched during manufacture. I would ask for a replacement straight away and be prepared to send the faulty ones back for quality control. Peter
Have to agree with Peter on this. They have very tight clearances and should be ultra stable. Are you sure that either the springs aren't stretched or that you are using an 18mm Parf Hole bench with the 20mm UJK clips?
I have the original (long version) parf dogs (axminster code 504503), which I attach the UJK clips to, and onto a Festool track. I was expecting it to be a lot more stable, but it's all too easy to get a little wiggle/slop by putting slight pressure on the saw. Which kind of defeats the purpose of them for me. I'm not sure where the problem lies, I'll take a close look tonight.
Hi Ron, You started that thread and have somehow deleted your post and it sucked everything with it. It is not possible to do 45 degree cuts with the Isometric top without a couple of extra holes. Not difficult to do but it need to be factored in at the start. Peter
What would we do without our "Peter Parfitt". Thank you dear friend. You are one of a kind and more and more are enjoying one of THE best. May He continue to bless you with talents unprecedented.
I contacted a local shop with a cnc They wanted 80 quid to do something similar. Just not worth my time making my own and their accuracy will be way better than this system
Hi Jim, I hope that you get the accuracy that you desire and that your dogs fit as they should. After a few months or years you will still need a replacement top. Good luck. Peter
