I live in the USA and want to say I truly appreciate and love your videos. Very educational traditional style bonsai techniques. Thank you for doing multiple languages.
@@IcemanJoanTV I agree that it might not help absolute beginners, but I found it helpful to see the two techniques used here because I understood what they were for from reading about them previously. *Seeing* it done so clearly was helpful to me. Also seeing what was done with the alternating buds was useful, too. I also can tell what effect that would have, and I learned something because I would have let the shoots grow first and only pruned them back later. So this suggests a different technique to me.
@@IcemanJoanTV the why was in the beginning. "Bad nebari" the roots were not coming out in cylindrical manner. The healthy ones were mostly below. The cuttings on the large roots will hopefully create new roots coming from the large ones.
Can I add.. when looking at what soils used just be aware that’s the perfect soil for that countries environment/rainfall. You may need to adapt what you see here for your own environment. Have a great day all.
Really interesting. But equally fascinating is how short the distance is between the nodes. How you achieve this would make a great video, too. Many thanks for sharing your work.
This bonsai will be replanted at the end of February. We will report the result of success or failure in the video at that time. I'm looking forward to it, and you're looking forward to it too.
@@dougbaker2120 Killing the tree out right. Disrupting hormones is something you should either academically understand, or have a very good working understanding of. It's not like a layer, where failure means trying again. If you kill the roots, and don't get more....
@@Robert_McGarry_Poems Sure, that much is obvious. But what specifically should one be careful of? What specifically can go wrong? Do you need to modify the watering practices? Do you need to worry about and check for infections or bugs? Should you always defoliate? Etc.
030622. I need more explanation of what is going on. Such as: What kind of "soil" is used? And: What is being accomplished by skinning away the surface of the roots that you want to be seen as a flared nebari? I would also like to see before and after time ( perhaps of another tree), to see the results that technique produces in the long run.
It's the same as an air layering but further down into the roots instead of on the trunk. Removing the cambium like that allows for nutrients and water to flow up from the roots but the pathway sending the photosynthesized energy from the leaves to the roots has been severed. This causes a build up of hormones and energy right above where the cuts were made and forces the plant to sprout new roots at that location. This is done in this manner to create ramification, movement, and taper of the roots closer to the trunk base. Not sure if he's posted a follow up video yet but at the next repotting, the new roots will have formed above the cut point and the old roots will be cut off at the cut point leaving behind the newly grown more desirable roots. The soil looks like mostly akadama and kiryu.
@@shortsthatdontsuck2174 I'm still confused why do the roots need to be closer to the trunk base? Can't they let the thicker roots exposed above the soil to add to the aged tree look instead of trying to sprout roots higher?
The roots look bad ? But I would think the graft scar is worse ? At least the roots are more hidden. Regardless, it’s a nice tree. I think we are too critical sometimes . Thanks for the videos !
Is there such a thing as an artificial sacrificial branch? Like if i were to add a weighted artificial limb would that produce the same effect of thickening the trunk?
I would think that wouldn't be a thing. From what I understand the reason it thickens up with a sacrifice branch is because its sending energy to that branch. thickening the branch which in turn thickens the trunk.
It interupts the phloem sap from going back down to the roots, so the plant "understand" it needs more roots from there to keep the phloem and xylem flow...
Another words you get new more roots closer to the tree base... .. Most of the time when you get yamadori roots are long and ugly and it takes very long time to make good nebari
Can someone in english explain y he starts removing buds on the tree? Great video by the way. Im watching all of ur videos right now! Great techniques!
the beginning of the video confuses me. Japanese maple below tweezers, Shishigashira above tweezers. were two trees grafted on that diagonal line? if so, please guide me to the video of this bonsai being grafted !!
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--6yZ-UFXUrw.html You can see the answer by watching this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZRz8cpWTFPU.html This is to make roots like this bonsai.
I wonder why you didn't used sphagnum moss to make the roots pop out faster? Probably that's why some people disliked the video. Oh well, It will turn out good in the end but right after a few solid months.
