It is fascinating to see how you build houses over there. I can't recall ever seeing pipes installed along a wall like that in the United States. Normally they would be run under the floor in the crawlspace or if it is a slab foundation, buried in the concrete before the slab is poured. Also with our timber-framed houses, plumbing can be run through the studs behind the drywall. It looks like you are using a hammer drill and mortar drill bit, so it must be concrete walls. Looking at the pipes coming into the room, I wonder if these were installed years after the house was built. You guys have some really old residential homes. Nice touch rounding the edges of the MDF. I really enjoy watching this video. It is always interesting to see how things were built over there, often being quite different from the way we do it here. Thanks Mark!
Hi David loved your observations. If it’s a new build then the pipe work would mostly be hidden, but with so many older properties people have all sorts of work done at various stages so very often pipes are run along walls. I have currently got a few potential jobs just making pipe work disappear.
We have hot water baseboard heating everywhere in Alaska, it's extremely common in colder environments with houses built between 1980s and 2010s. Before that it was forced air with floor vents, but it's very unpopular as it is much less efficient. Baseboard heating is dead ugly though, no way around it. With shutoff valves like that, it looks like this may be a water source rather than a heating source, which seems pretty weird to me, haha. The thing that gets me the most is the outlets though 😂, those look so bizzare to me.
Nice job but I'd always leave the mains stop cock easily accessible as in either completely open ready to turn or at the very least a magnetic hatch. If the home owner has a burst pipe or something, they (assuming they're not the most DIY minded as majority of people aren't) will not be getting into that boxing in anytime soon, especially after they've painted in and can't see the screw holes.
Leaving the lid removable with battens attached to the underside to stop it sliding around would probably have worked in this case. Looked like there was space to reach down to turn the valves.
Nice video again. I’m about to embark on something very similar in our downstairs washroom including boxing in the mains water stop cock. I thought I’d hold the stop cock boxing on with small magnets so that in an emergency the water could be turned off without delay. Hunting for the right sized screwdriver when mains water is gushing through a ceiling would not be my idea of fun!😮 Looking forward to your next smiley, smiley video.
I'm guessing this may be solid walls (stone?) as well as floors? No a job I've ever done but I should have done this in the bathroom years ago. My OCD would insist on dead square edges but I'd probably make a mess of it so the overhang and moulded edge makes sense.
What size was the base board and how did you fix it to the tiled floor, screwed or glued or neither, what size is the top piece of trim, as you say this wasn't very sexy and neither was it a very detailed 'How to video'. I certainly don't agree with a complete boxing in of the stop cock to mains water even if it can be removed, should always be visible, I won't be returning for more.
You seemed to use quite short red 6mm wall plugs, but you knocked them right through the timber. How does that work? Don't you end up with a much larger hole in the timber than you need, so that the head of the screw might pull through? I have always drilled holes in the timber first, then tapped a nail through each hole to mark the wall and put the plugs in the wall then attached the timber. Your way is much quicker and avoids any misalignment between the hole in the timber and the hole in the wall.
I do both when fixing through timber. As long as you use the right screws it won’t pull through. I often pre drill the timber then drill into the wall just marking the wall , then swap to the right drill bit for the plug.
@@KAPWoodworkandbuilding Thanks for your reply. I think that is what I will do. Pre-drill the timber with a 4mm wood/steel drill bit, then drill through the holes in the timber into the wall with a 4mm masonary drill. Then remove the timber and open up the holes in the wall to the required size (5/6 mm) with a masonary drill and insert the plugs. This should work well as the pre-drilled timber should stop the masonary drill from 'wandering' too much and ensure that the holes in the timber and wall align well. It is only slightly more work swapping over drill bits, but hopefully ensures a good result.
