Im doing the opposite to my rads. Previous owners had buried the pipe in the wall , when one of the poor fitting valves started leaking it was a nightmare to fix. All the heat now enters the room and not the north facing outside wall. I thing shiny copper pipes look nice.
I rendered it, then plastered it. 3 years later still looks good as new 👍 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IpcwTUPEm5M.htmlsi=ZIfkXVPbZdFhmiON
@@SuperRon Great video, just researching for myself. I sat and thought about this question to get inside of the plumber's mind :-) I would guess the answer is this is the only way not to have a joint of any kind (t-joint) in the wall... this approach means the manifold you described upstairs is where all the action happens. Also, the pipes would have to cross over each other and take up more space in the chased-out wall.
I paid a local company 5k to install a new combi boiler and fit 4 new radiators (We supplied). They have used plastic piping and chased them into the wall.. their excuse (as we expected copper) is that it's better when behind the wall (less expansion etc). Is this correct? Also do the plastic pipes need insulating etc? As currently they haven't done this and I want to make sure I'm not being ripped off. Any advice much appreciated. Thanks!
Very similar job in my heating system. The combination of pressure and heat can produce a pipe expansion that will be more pronounced in plastic pipes. A normal boiler runs with pressures of 1,5 bars. In worse case scenario a 10mm plastic pipe has a max operational pressure of 3.5 bar. The water temperature of a modern boiler is max 60c while plastic pipes can comfortably works at 80/90C. So I would not worry about pipe expansion as it should be minimal. Plastic retain heat better than cooper with less thermal stress on plaster. Plastic pipes inside walls are very common in Italy and europe. In addition I would recommend 15mm pipes because 10mm ones can restrict boiler output working at same pressure. It wouldn't be nice to spend money for a powerful boiler that will be underutilised. Cheers
They've been great, get just as hot as a traditional rad. I under spec'd the btu for the room as I use the fire mostly, so they should have both been doubles, but still do the job, just take longer to warm the room on their own.
Great video. We have just moved into a property where we are having pipe problems. Lots of loud banging when we have the heating and hot water on. Lasts for about two hours after it’s been turned off. Our pipes are well and truly hidden which is the problem because we are considering getting the upstairs pipes relayed. Can I ask what made you go for copper pipes over a plastic system?
Thanks for watching 😁 it sounds like you've got a blockage or trapped air somewhere and its bubbling around after it stops pumping. I went for copper as that's what the plumbers recommended, more reliable joins and better to form into the complex shapes they were making.
We just had to have all of the copper plumbing removed from our house and replaced with plastic. The copper had deteriorated and was leaking in several places.
I've been doing the rest of the house myself, but I thought I'd leave this to the professionals. I'm glad I did as their experience on bending and routing the pipes was amazing 😁
Am near watching this video because I need this doing in my house, but it’s finding someone who is good at there job and not a cow boy these days. Would love to know how much this would of cost.
I found couple carcking around the chasing column. I tried to use mesh tape or drywall filler but don't really work. Do you have any clue how to repair it?
Sorry one more question. Once heat turns on, is it really hot if you touch the chasing area?I found the difference is mine seems not cover by heat insulation. @@SuperRon
They used a grinder (with a Hoover attachment) to cut two slots top to bottom, then used an air chisel to chop out between the two lines. Thanks for watching 😁
If you need to remove the radiators to decorate etc,,,,, the pipes to the radiator tails look too short to be able to undo the valves from the rads and move them aside as they would be too rigid. I this you would need to remove the radiator and valves together and undo the pipe coming up from the bottom which would be a pain (have to drain rather than turn off valves.
It might be close, it's not the end of the world if I do have to take them off the pipe side and drain, it's not a regular activity and look great with minimal piping.
