Brother- that oscillating tool you use has been one of the biggest life savers. I've used mine to cut clean lines in gutters I needed to put back up and it beats the Hell outta using snips I gotta tell you. Drywall, MDF, LDF, pine, you name it- it's good on it.
I have gutted one home, and redone it. I have remodeled 5 bathrooms. I started out in construction, and worked with two electricians. This guy is awesome.
I got drawers made for my kitchen that had the fully extendable and self closing drawer slide. There is resistance when opening the drawer. I absolutely hate them. When I pull on a drawer I want it to easily and effortlessly open.
Just want to add some "safety" points. The stop on the Kreg drill bit WILL move. Check depth fairly often, I did not. Nothing sucks worse than adding a stained and lacquered finish to a drawer and watch the screw penetrate when you go to put it together. I found the Blum adjustment piece (the orange piece) deforms at an actual 1/2 in., still works, but doesn't seem right. If the distance from the bottom of the sides and fronts to the bottom edge of the drawer bottom is slightly less than 1/2 in. works better. The edge banding Rockler tools are awesome and the non-iron edging fails less. I worked for myself as a "handyman" for a bout 20 years, Started with a painting company (2 yrs), Went to framing (4 yrs) then to remodeling for the remainder. I never built fine cabinetry until recently, in my own remodel. (many would not consider it "fine") I decided to do frame-less, not the best choice for a novice. I also found that pocket screws are difficult to use without a really nice clamping system. (boards seem to move too much). I like the cut of your jib. Informative videos. Thanks!
*WOW* !!!!! *These drawers are beautiful* !!!!!!!! *Yes, high end kitchens have FAB large drawers and fewer cabinets* !!!!!!! *Thanks for the GREAT info behind the scenes of a soft close drawer* !!!! *Looking forward to seeing this NEW kitchen* !!!! #TheHandyman
It was cool seeing you swap out your blade for a dado stack. I have a couple used Craftsman table saws and I got a couple dado stacks with them...lent my garage out to family for storage during their purchase/renovation and I just reclaimed my space over the weekend. Time to make some man glitter with my wood power tools! Thanks for the video - didn't mind that it was long as it was all informative!
Our kitchen has 1 set of drawers. That's it. It's driving my wife crazy, so I need to build a set of drawers for another cabinet in the kitchen and 2 sets of drawers for our bathroom (which doesn't have _any_ drawers). I finally got my temporary shop put up, so I should be able to at least do that much. I can't wait to get my shop built!!!
Thanks for the great video, answered all my questions. I've really wanted to start building my own cabinets for customers for awhile. But have only built a vanity so far. Taking awhile to get used to kreg jigs but watching your videos has helped a ton. Keep em coming.
I just went down the rabbit hole on woodworking forums and most guys are using pocket holes. Its has a bad rap because it doesn't take a skilled woodworker with sophisticated tools to get the same results. The fact is it works and its easy. I just got into building cabinets a few years ago.
I did an intermediate cost drawer - I use the same 1/2" plywood but do 1/4-inch rabbets and dadoes all around such that I glue the drawer together with no fasteners. The pieces come together side-to-side so that all the open/close front-to-rear force is on the dadoes and not on the glue. I use the cheap full-extension slides from Outwater. No edgebanding; but they still look good enough for my house. I use the FastCap adhesive edgebanding kit with wood-grained PVC edgebanding on the cherry veneer MDF doors and drawer fronts. The stuff works great and looks great. The doors use Blum overlay hinges and those things are awesome. If I had a fancier house, I'd have gone with the Blum slides, but that would add a lot of cost.
This was a really great video. A lot more "how to" and informational, but still enjoyable to watch even though I have no intention of building any cabinets.
Almost every time I've used pocket holes I've blown atleast one hole out. I can never get the clutch set on my 20v dewalt drill set right... I might need to write down the setting one of these times lol
@@just_a_guy13 what setting do you use on the drill? 1st gear or 2nd gear? Are they called gears? And what number also? Like should I start on 1st gear and 1 on the spinning collar and work up until I see it actually clamping down?
@@justinburgan4184 oh and I believe they call it a clutch( like on a manual car) not gears. It uses gears but the clutch is what let's it slip when the appropriate torque is applied.
Hey Handyman don't use the fence along with mitre gauge. And don't use fence to cut a board that is wider than it is long. Very dangerous, love your videos and stay safe.
For what it's worth, there are Milescraft-branded pocket hole screws as well, but they require a Torx bit. Another possible substitute, which I saw in passing, is lath screws: they have a washer head and aggressive thread and seem almost identical to pocket hole screws. You just have to choose the variety with the smallest possible washer head, as some styles are extremely wide. For some weird reason, these screws cost more than Kreg screws, so I wouldn't buy them unless the Kreg brand was sold out.
Chipper is the right name, according to the manual for my dado stacks. I only have two dado stacks myself, the older of the two is a Sears Craftsman (10") and is marked to be compatible with my radial arm saw. The newer one is by a company called "Oshlun" I never heard of before and I had to order them from Amazon because local stores didn't carry a set that small. Only 6" diameter, but it will cut a dado from 1/4" up to 29/32", which is wider than the Craftsman set is able to do.
Has anyone ever had issues with the kreg automaxx clamp for pocket holes? About to pull the trigger on the k5 kreg jig system and wanted some opinions and advice. Best advice on the best channel in the whole world baby!!!
Suggestion -- Clamp down your kreg jig to the workbench. It wont move around so much that way. Also, if you cut a shallow rabbit on the sides, the front will slip into that rabbit and be glueable adding more strength
There is a replacement screw that will work, but it doesn't compare to the Kreg screws, I had a few of the other screws round out on me, where the Kreg has been 100% every time. I am willing to spend an extra $1 for the Kreg screws for this reason.
subtle use of the middle finger to FLIP OFF the entire INTERNET....sweet.....was also concerned with all the various future projectiles on top of the saw guide fence....just lookin out for my fav handyman....cheers
Armor Tool makes a pocket hole jig and color coded screws as alternative to Kreg. It's pretty flippin sweet, too, if you ask me. Although if you're looking for something cheaper, I think they're effectively the same price, so...
15:00 armor tools has an auto jig for pocket holes & fasteners that are color coded, can usually grab a combo pack for $19 I think, but they don’t seem expensive.. Beautiful work you’ve got going on. Really nice👍🏻
The Handyman that’s cool. I kept going back n forth on the kreg jig or armor jig. Ended up going with armor jig w/ full 6” face clamp. Also, you can convert your kreg k4 into “auto lock” with the armor tools conversion kit if want.....if interested link is here -> bit.ly/2S7Gd3w Have a good one ✌🏼
Where did you go for "school?" I've heard you mention in a few of your videos going to college, and am wondering what classes/subject of study you went through? Was it a two year technical school? How useful was it? Thanks for the videos, always learning something new from them!r
I have a Bachelors of Science in Construction Management. I was hired right out of college and worked as a superintendent for 6 years after college before starting my own construction company. I went to Colorado State University.
I am up to drawer construction on a credenza project, and I have been considering edge banding, solid wood edging, and even hardwood side boards. I'm not a fan of exposed plywood edges (rounded or otherwise). I'm probably going with the edge banding.
I have had good luck with edge banding on cabinet projects. Keep in mind that in 10 to 15 years. you might have to re-glue some high traffic areas where edge banding was installed.
First time I used my kreg jig I was so damn excited I didn't bother to think about my depths and the very first drill I went right into the jig base! HAHAHAHA I'm such an amateur!
Nice job! Would you ever consider ordering the drawers premade ? You can go online put in your measurements and the get shipped assembled or in pieces.
You are using Blum soft close glides. Very common. I use them all the time. Nothing high end about them. The distinguishing thing is using solid wood. I use oak.
I may have missed something...Why'd you put edge banding on solid wood? Was it because of the cut edges? That Maple was beautiful, can't imagine that edge looking bad.
Another great video. Question... How would you dress up the drawer face if it's an under counter pullout inside a cabinet door (with an exposed face)? A typical drawer would get get covered up with a drawer face, but pullouts do not.
You may have said it and I didnt catch it but my question is, do you prefinish the entire panel of Maple Ply prior to cutting it into your drawer parts?
I hate edge banding. Wanna do mine? I'll ship all my clients' boxes to you and you can do the edge banding. But seriously, do you have a secret technique for trimming the sides cleanly? I always get tear out unless I go slow as balls.
i guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a way to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my password. I would love any tips you can offer me
@Ethan Cain I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
My neighbours came over last week and I pulled out one of my drawers out to show off and noticed my wife loaded it with junk. So needless to say they didn't go oooh ahhh they said wow what a junk drawer. ouch !!!
When using 1/2" ply with 1" pocket screws, without fail about 20% of my screws sit 1/32 - 1/16" proud of the hole. Doesn't make a difference on the back but on the front the drawer front won't sit flush. To this day I have no idea what I'm doing wrong on that 20%. I beg you to respond if you have an answer! :/
A "real" "rich people" drawer would've been box jointed. Hard to do but less hard if you have a jig, and strong as hell. It's not necessary in a normal household unless you decide to use that drawer to store some huge pieces of steel.
