How to make non-toxic Wicking Bed from IBC Tote for Organic Garden 

Glad it was helpful!

I appreciate that!

I tried it...but each tote (which becomes 2 wicking beds) requires 40 end caps and I could not find a manufacturer that makes them out of UV stable material. However, cutting the frame with a cut-off wheel was a time and labor saver. With the open ends, I used Platinum Patch by DAP and I will report back after some time to see how this holds up to the weather. I still feel that JB Weld is a more durable product and I know that it's non-toxic after curing because I called the company and they said this is true.

@@peacefulwarrior444 thanks so much for reporting back on your research and results!

… that’s what I was thinking … you can buy in bulk the end caps used for metal chair legs …

Paint the end caps with outdoor paint maybe?

I cut ours with a cutoff wheel and used a plug cutter on old scraps of cedar for most of the pipes. Left some open to insert #3 rebar and extend a cage over the plants. Handy to have for a trellis, shade cloth if too hot (9B), or too cold.

Thank you 👍

But then they are stationary. I move mine around my property since I have many acres.. The base of the totes is strong enough to drag with a 4 wheeler or tractor, and the other portion I affix to a pallet and drag that.

I thought the same thing, to flip it. But the ability to drag these around is a very good plan. I change my mind as my garden grows/develops and I get new ideas.

Not for me. I need the tote to remain as strong as possible so I can drag it around both in the building process to eliminate unnecessary steps, and after it's complete because I rearrange my garden space from time to time.

Funny! I gave an image of the product at 23:25 but it's nearly impossible to read - so thanks for bringing this to my attention! I used Yardworks 30 year Duraweb Premium Landscape Fabric purchased at Menards.

I used oven racks. But, if you want your wicking bed moveable, the racks shift around and can fall out of place. Not good. And if the racks are rusting, then the water turns rusty. So I decided, for my purpose, that rocks were better.

I used oven racks - but didn't find those to be the best way because they rust, and when I move the tote, the racks can shift. I prefer large field stones.

I don't. But I don't deplete the soil of it's nutrients either. I use crop rotation practices. For instance, after growing a season of carrots, potatoes or onions, the next season I'll plant peas and beans in that same soil to add back in nitrogen. I also add mulch once the plants are tall enough, which breaks down and becomes soil for the next seasons planting. With that said - it's always good to have your soil tested so if it is currently lacking in any nutrients already, you can supplement your soil with whatever it's lacking, such as working in manure, compost, or minerals. There are lots of videos about soil amendments. As for the hay that sits under the soil, it's going to break down and feed the soil with organic matter. No need to do anything there.

A handful of good compost worms wont hurt...

Premium quality landscape fabric is often made of polypropylene or linen. I used Yardworks® DuraWeb 4' x 100' 30-Year Premium Landscape Fabric, which is a black non-woven fabric. Yardworks® does not specify what type of fabric this contains, and I can't get an answer, but it does let water and minerals flow through. I decided this to be a better choice than polypropylene landscape fabric even though PP’s resin identification code is 5, is used in food grade containers, and is approved for multiple use. The use of PP is considered safe by industry standards because it does not have any remarkable effect from an occupational health and safety point of view, in terms of chemical toxicity. So I would consider neither to be perfect - the non-woven fabric because the company refuses to share details nor the PP because it's still a form of plastic...but then again, even the tote is plastic (albeit also food grade) so until I make my own containers from clay, this is the best I could find. If you know of something better, please share!

Spray can paint will peel eventually. Proper way to paint plastic is with proper cleaning, primer, and paint. That costs more, and takes a lot more time than wrapping it in a UV stable film.