HOW TO MAKE THE ULTIMATE EXTENSION CORD! 

My one suggestion as an electrical engineer would be to place 20 amp outlet at the end where the line cord enters the first box and put the indicator lamp and hospital outlet at the far end. That would serve two purpose... it would keep the heavier current from passing through extra wiring and connections. Second having the indicator at the far end would indicate that power is actually getting to the farthest end of the unit!

Most new breakers have 2 trip methods. One is magnetic which works primarily during a fault. The second is a bimetal coil, similar to an old fashion thermostat, this is the one that handles general overloads. Depending on the manufacturer, age, and use of the breaker it can take time for the coil to heat up and trip. Certain manufacturer like Zinsco and Federal Pacific wont trip and you get the smokey house effect. We hope there isn’t one in the house you’re at. It is perfectly normal to hit a higher amperage on a breaker for a short period of time before the coil snaps. I have seen a 20 amp breaker hit 25 amps and hold for 10 minutes. Ultimately heat is what trips the breaker in an overload and it takes time for the heat to build up and trip the breaker. If you had a thermometer on you at the time of the video, you most likely could have identified the breaker you were using by the amount of heat it would have been producing. How ever I don’t suggest replicating the scenario to try it. Overloading a circuit is never a good thing. The more heat a breaker takes on the easer it trips the next time. Great video! I got out of remodeling to became an electrician. I mis the remodel world. I watch your videos and you guys always have some new concept or product that I have never seen. There are a lot of new products that has come out in the last several years. I really liked the cabinet leveling kit. I switched to air bags just before I got out of the business, but this little gizmos you guys used knocked the socks off the airbags. I can’t wait to see the next video.

Pro Tip: When you are twisting stranded wire, twist in the opposite direction. You may notice that when you cinch the ground screw it tends to splay the wire. The reverse twist is in the same direction as the cinching of the screw so it actually squeezes the wire in the same direction as the twist making a "better" connection.

Been doing industrial maintenance like ~6-7 years now and grew up in a home where we did everything DIY. Had literally zero knowledge that there was a stranded and solid side to strippers. Learn something new every single day, as long as you allow yourself to admit when you don't know.

Pro Tip: When tightening a cord into into a strain relief, press the cord inwards towards the connections on the device to de-strain them while you're tightening it down. This provides some slack inside the device and prevents strain-loading the connections during assembly. And... great video, thanks!

This was hands down one of the best instructional videos I have ever seen dealing with electricity. Knocked it right out of the park. It is also cool you are a father son team. Lots of guys wish they had that growing up.

I would mount the last grey outlet turned 180 degrees. You see at 23:30 how a right angle plug blocks the second outlet. Reverse the outlet, and you can use a right angle plug in the lower, or outer spot, and leave the other outlet available if needed. Great video!

Your typical circuit breaker has two trip modes, a magnetic and a thermal. The magnetic will trip instantly for high currents like a dead short, while the thermal portion can handle brief overloads to allow motors and other high inrush devices to start. The datasheet for the breaker will have the curves, but typically most will handle 200% for about 10 seconds, 150% for 100 seconds.

This thing is incredible! Also love that when viewers suggest improvements, you guys listen instead of getting offended. Leads to an amazing solution like this. Great video as always. Love your channel.

Of course you knew you were going to get comments on your ultimate extension cord. Before you paint with the flex drill 2 holes in the top of the board 16" on center. When you're at a job site with open bays, you can fasten it right up to the wall and the holes will be premade in your wood to mount on the stud's. Even without it's a fantastic device!

25:55 My Dad was a Navy man in Vietnam. He learned this fact there and explained to me no less than 100 times. Which in hind sight was good because it took me about 20 to really grasp. When the impeller is able to move fluid linearly in flow, it constantly encounters new, axially stationary, fluid and then has to introduce torque. When the flow stops, the impeller puts torque onto the fluid, which remains linearly stationary, and the system becomes a flywheel. And we all know a flywheel take a lot of energy to get up to speed, but very little to keep at speed. I was probably 4 years old the first time I heard this and 8 before I could finish his story for him. Thanks for the memories, Stud Pack. ☮❤🌈🧘🏽🕉☸☯

Love how this guy took the “know-it-all” suggestions and added ALL of them to the project. GENIUS!

The super extension cord video was the first video of Stud Pack that I watched. Since then, I have watched every video of yours. I’m hooked. Great content, loads of fun and Paul’s personality has really come thru since your first video. Love the father son interaction and that Jordan is so respectful. I have a few tools of my fathers and grandfathers and really cherish them like you do with your fathers extension cord. Got to give Jordan a shot out. I assume this was his idea and the filming has been terrific. I’m not in the trades so Paul’s ability to clearly explain the work and tricks of the trade is excellent. He has a real gift. Having grown up in northern Florida, the heat and humidity is gruesome. So I know the conditions you are working in. The only video that was hard for me to watch was when you were installing pipe under the patio for a toilet. Paul looked whipped by the heat but he prevailed. I looked and felt the same way when working road construction in the summer in Fla. Thanks for such a fun and interesting channel. Keep it going.

Breaker didn't trip instantly because its being overloaded and not short-circuited. It'll take a few seconds to a minute to trip at only 8 amps of overload current and that's normal. Higher current overloads will trip it faster.

EXCELLENT VIDEO! My dad was an electrician for 47 years and he taught me to be conservative and cautious in order to keep things safe. It was GREAT to see you carefully use many of the tricks that he taught me as well as many of the tips I’ve developed over the years thanks to his careful training. Cable stripping, strain relief, proper use of tools and adapters… you hit them all. Hats off as well to your commenters, who taught me all sorts of useful and interesting things that even 30+ years of well-informed DIY work had left me wondering about. I’ve subscribed to your channel, and I’m planning a “binge watch” to prep for some upcoming projects!

I am a Navy Veteran Electrician. Since I got out in 1980 I have been in electrical engineering field for my entire life. Before my Navy experience I attended two years in a VOTECH school for Industrial and residential wiring. I did get my journeyman electrician License. I do not use the Wegos on anything that draws current. Signal wires and Low Voltage lighting maybe. If you look inside you will see that they have a very small wire contact area. They will get hot under load. Use the screws on the outlet. they clamp with a good connection, current rated. Do not use the contactor discount outlets, they are made with cheap plastic that breaks too easy. The outlets should all be 20 amp rated and not mix and match. You went with the gimmick USB outlet. If you want USB charging, buy a USB charging strip. Your ground connection was a trick fix that should never be used. You should of used a solid conductor for this green screw connection then wire nut the other wires together in the back of the box. All box covers should be the gray type designed for these boxes. They are outdoor rated with spring covers over each outlet.

This video and the comments below reflect one of the things I like most about this channel. Paul is 85%+ for an amazing number of trades, and he presents in a way that is accessible to DIYers without condescending to pros. That means he attracts a very wide range of people, AND he's humble enough to showcase suggestions or corrections. I could hardly be more impressed with Paul. And obviously, thanks to Jordan for making the channel possible and for making the connections/ asking the questions for those of us who aren't as widely competent as Paul is. :) You two are a great team that has built a forum for a very helpful community. *Thank you.*

When you said NEMA 6-20 receptacle you meant to say NEMA 5-20 receptacle. The 5-20 is for 120 V 20 A, whereas the 6-20 is for 240 V 20 A. The plugs are different and are not interchangeable, so you can't accidentally plug a 120 V appliance into a 240 V outlet.

If you look in the datasheets for most circuit breakers, they have the over-current to hold time graph, which is a curve. at a low amount over the rated current it will take quite a while (up to an hour) for the breaker to trip - 15.5 amps in a 15 amp circuit for example. As the draw goes up, the hold time drops. A 60 amp draw would almost instantaneously trip a 15 amp breaker. Mechanically why this happens has been covered in many comments. Why this is a good thing... hasn't. Breakers can be designed to trip instantaneously for any peak over the rated current, but this provides no extra protection, and very well might cause problems with high draw devices like motors, that can draw great amounts of current at startup, but level off very quickly (inrush current). A few seconds above the rated current isn't going to heat the wires in the walls significantly, and since the breaker is only there to protect those wires (....and nothing else), there's no value in making it trip any faster.

I used to drive a truck delivering stud packs to job sites. I really love y'all's channel. My late stepdad who I loved very much was a General contractor like you. He taught me so many cool things that I still think about today. When I watch you and hear your voice explaining stuff, maybe it's the kind tone you have, it just makes me feel like my stepdad is watching with me.

Ha ha…you are giving code enforcement and fire marshals across the world heartburn for sure with this project. Love it. I guessed right on the USB outlets, but you left out my second device. I was expecting a load sensing circuit to power up your shop vac whenever you started your saw. Maybe video three. Final comment is solid wire inside would be fine. Nothing should be moving inside these boxes. The stranded wire just made it harder to wire up like on that ground screw. Thanks for the entertainment.

I see one improvement I would make. I would have the cord wrap BELOW the outlet boxes. That way I could use the boxes with unwrapping just a few feet of wire. The way it is now, you have the wire blocking the boxes. BTW, this is my first time watching your videos and I liked / subscribed.

The vacuum part surprised me, I hadn't really thought about it before but I assumed when it was clogged that it would be pulling harder to overcome the clog therefor drawing more current, turns out I was wrong. Every day I learn something new!

The most amazing part of this is that you decided to film it to show those that haven’t been doing the same for years how to do it…one doesn’t realize that everyone else doesn’t already know this…👍👍👍🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

Jordan, I've got to say great camera work. You do a fantastic job filing your Dad as he's doing the work. I think you could pitch a show to the Home Channel on TV, you guys are way better than some of the other Home Improvement DIYers channels out there.

The breaker didn't trip because it's not supposed to. Generally, home breakers will allow you to pull between 100% and 125% of the rated current indefinitely. The more over the rated current you are, the faster it will trip, so you can draw about 200% to 300% of the rated current for about 10 seconds. A dead short is far less than a second. I would link a breaker trip curve example, but youtube sometimes flags comments with links as spam. If you look one up, you'll see there are 2 lines, and the area between them is the "might trip, might not trip" zone (and is commonly shaded), so when you're sizing breakers for larger equipment, you need to make sure that your load will always stay to the left side of the left curve, including during startup, otherwise you'll hate yourself or other people will hate you. This might seem terrible, but it's actually a very good thing. When you turn on an inductive load (like an air compressor or saw), you get an insanely high current spike on startup, and the breaker tripping would make it completely useless. Yes, this is completely safe, copper has a lot of thermal mass so it takes a while to actually get hot and be a danger. Also I'm an electrical engineer, not an electrician :P

When I was a kid, I remember my Dad and Grandpa trying to teach me stuff like this all the time. But I was to young to understand and appreciate it. Just ranomdly today RU-vid decided to share your videos with me and it's been great.

I don't know shit about electrical wiring but sitting here a 3:43 am writing this with a good ol' cup o' joe is always the mood

I love that y'all keep things as "live" as possible. Can't remove insulation on the first try? Tamper resistant receptacle being difficult? - Leave it in :)

Darn you, I just made your SUPER extension cord now you show me an ULTIMATE extension cord. I can't keep up with your great ideas. I'm retired and no longer take on the scale of projects you so easily tackle, so I guess I'll live with my SUPER extension cord. It was a fun project. You both produce great videos that are so great to watch. Keep up the great work. Stay safe.

In Ham Radio we often add meters to our panels to monitor voltage and amps on our rigs. This is especially helpful on mobile setups where you might be operating from a battery. Having a small LED display about the size if your green light would be handy to make sure you don't overload the circuit.

These Stud Pack how-to videos are quite possibly the BEST of their kind on You Tube.!!! They are at once instructional, understandable, complete and detailed without being pedantic or arcane, humorous and fun to watch, and the camera work is outstanding!!!!!! Count me as a Number One FAN!!!👍👍👌👌😁 😄

Hi Stud Pack , I am a electrician in Quebec Canada , I love your videos keep it up. The reason it didn't trip right away, is it wasn't a short circuit , try it again but wait longer so the breaker heats up and goes on overload , it should trip . But there are lots of old panels like commander and FPE panels that are notorious for not tripping on overload conditions. Electrical panels do need to be tested after 20-25 years .

Hey man thank you. I binge watched this channel the past 2 weeks on my free time. I love this. My dad past away oh cancer 6 years ago. He was a handy man and showed me these tricks. But I’m learning so much more.

Yes, wago connectors, nice to see them being used. Actually my favourite takeaway was the mounting board with cable wrapping ears and a carrying handle, that’s a neat idea

As a retired electrician I complement you on the extension cord. However I must throw a word of caution about the paddle connections. For this application it probably wouldn't be a problem but having years experience in the oilfield electrial equipment and vibrations having a tight twist on the stranded wire under the paddle connectors will become a loose connection. The natural twist of the wire is good. The tight twist over time will relax.

That has got to be the most awesome extension cord of all time. Reminds me of the ones we built when I was in trade school in sixties. We had the auto shop weld up some stands. We then attached two eight inch square boxes and wired in two duplex receptacles in each with thirty feet of 12/3 stranded cable. Great job site cords but know where near yours. Of course it was 1966.

My dad passed away in March, of this year. He had the same type of extension cords you have, heavy duty black, and even one with the double outlet on the end (no GCFI tho). Seeing this, I'm now going to re-purpose his cords, for the ultimate extension cord, and memory. Made my day sirs. Ty. -George

You guys are awesome taking time out of your days to make videos for all of us. Much appreciated!

Man 27 minutes flys by with you guys! Excellent project

Technically, your 28 amp load would have never overheated or damaged the wiring. #12 wire is designed to carry 30 amps without heating beyond 90 degrees Celsius. Most wire insulation won't melt until beyond 105 degrees Celsius. Look up the NEC wire ampacity table. We are limited to using #12 romex at 60 degrees Celsius (20 amps) because it's best not to push the limits of the cable when risking fires. Many inexperienced DIYers tend to push the limits of electrical wiring. The #12 triplex wire you used inside the boxes is indeed rated for 25 amps, as it is only limited to 75 degrees Celsius.

Absolutely FANTASTIC camera work! Super close shots of every thoroughly explained step. What a GREAT team.

i love seeing how dad has become the star of the show, I remember that first video i watched of the bed frame build and he was just a shy guy in the back.

Not only was this a great video it also showed items that many of us most likely never knew existed. The receptacle with the USB option not only saves counter space it eliminates the necessity for the little “brick” transformers which are just clutter once you’re done charging an item. The plug end gfi was another bonus.

My recommendation is to use a 10 Guage extension cord. If you are going to buy one, especially a 100', get the bigger wire. The bigger wire does not heat up as fast as a 12 or 14. Don't even think about a 16 ga cord for this. I could see you running a table saw and a vacuum together and both drawing about 9 amps, so a the 10 ga will handle the draw for a longer time. Also when I wired my dad's wood shop, I made sure to run a separate circuit for lighting. If the breaker trips, the last thing you want is a saw running in the dark. I would run the lights by themselves on a separate extension cord on a separate breaker if at all possible for safety. If you want to make 2 50 footers, buy 1 100' cord and cut it in half, it is cheaper. Of course if you go to an electrical supply, they may have it on a roll and you can buy it by the foot, you are going to cut the ends off anyways. I love this idea, the handle and mounting was a great idea, the hole to hang it on.

I love the Father and Son quality time! Thanks for letting us share.

love this idea. I am always looking for outlets when working around the house. Especially outside. I will definitely be copying this in some form or another. nice work guys.

I built version one a couple of months ago and I love it. I will probably build a simpler version of this super ext cord, but I’m not a fan of that huge yellow GFI box. Love the built-in mount/cord wrap and love that it’s rubberized. The point is you guys pointed out that the bus bars we build are far better than the ones sold in the big box stores. They are also customized to our needs.

Great content as always! You always do a great job of the full explanation. Great point on the shop vac, its the principle of conservation of energy. The USB plug devices are the new best thing to add at strategic locations in a house. If one does ANY work on their home, this channel is must watch, hands down.

I made up a cord and box exactly like yours minus the USB plugs ( it was before everyone needed a USB plug to survive the day) I made mine using 12G SO cord, 100 feet long and it’s laid out in sun light, rain, snow, ice and anything Mother Nature can throw at it and it’s still working great, with hardly no voltage drop too

Love the synergy of the team. And i among others appreciate the knowledge being shared. It is very interesting as someone with 0 background experience to see you being able to customize it to your needs and properly implementing the safety breaks.

Awesome as ever! Shouldn't the highest current receptacle be the first one on the daisy chain? The lightest load (the USB chargers) at the the far end. That way, the high current load doesn't have to go through a half dozen interconnects. It makes sense to put the high load socket and the pilot light in the first box so the high current is first on the line and the lamp let's us know power is coming in at the source. Though improbable, one of the connections in the middle of the boxes might fail. You still know the cord is hot. Keep up the great work, boys. If your video pops up in my recommendations, I get a piping hot cup of Joe, sit back and enjoy the show!

Love your videos! ALWAYS learn something from you guys! Thanks for all the hard work you put into making them.

26:16 Okay, last Dad comment (on this video :-) for you. When you wrap a cord in a loop as you are doing, you are introducing a twist. The conductors inside are twisted, and the strands of each conductor are also twisted. This compounding effect is what causes old cords to the get the "umbilical cord" damage. However, with the quality of cord you are using here, that is never going to become apparent (as evidenced by the age of this 3 generation cord). Even so there is still a good reason to use my Dad's Navy wrap method. The Navy wrap is to make a figure eight on the side opposite the handle. This has 1 immediate benefit of not obstructing the outlets. But also each pair of wraps is a 1/2 twist minus a 1/2 reverse twist. Here's an exercise: If you extend the cord only 1 foot because that is all you need at first but then later decide to take out the rest of the cord to move your tool farther away, you can do so without unplugging anything. The cord will be straight. No twists. Try that exercise both ways. It's mind blowing.

The first extension cord video is the first video I've ever watched of Stud Pack, then I was really hooked to these guys, subscribed immediately and never disappointed!

Small suggestion that I’ve seen on British plugs. They leave a bit of slack on the neutral and a little more on the ground so that, if something pulls the cord out of the plug, they detatch in a specific order - live 1st & ground last.

This is a fantastic project. Real men improve shit and prove they are secure in their self worth by listening to feedback instead of getting defensive. Love it!

Jeff love the power station with the plywood backing! If made similar ones but I love this one the best!! Love your attention to detail on everything you do!! Thanks👍

Loved this build! I think I'll make a smaller one but I'll use the outdoor boxes with the lids attached.

Love this! I was gonna buy an expensive power strip bar with led lights and USB built-in for my shop, but now I'm inspired to build a custom one and add an auxiliary twist-lock whip and breaker for my generator. Thanks Stud Pack!

Seeing you leave a bit of green insulation on to prevent the stranded from splaying was well worth the price of admission.

Great device! Thanks for sharing.

Awesome video guys! I’ve done some wiring as well, totally within my wheelhouse to tackle something like this. Also, I like how you didn’t “dismiss” the safety “Karens” out there, but actually incorporated their suggestions! Very cool!

A breaker is a Thermo-Magnetic over current protection device. The '' Thermo'' portion of the breaker consist of a bi-metallic* strip of metal that is heated by a resistor in series with the load *( two dissimilar metals fused together, each having their own thermal expansion coefficient, thus creating a curve in the metal strip when subjected to a heat source. ). this flexion of the bi metallic strip of metal is used to trigger the breaker opening mechanism. the bigger the overload, the faster it heats up, the quicker it trigger. On the other hand, in the event of a pure short circuit, the Amps drawn can easily climb to 1000 amps on a 15 amps line in a fraction of a second, too fast for the bi-metallic system to react in order to prevent the wires from glowing red. This is where the ''Magnetic'' portion of the breaker comes into play, inside the breaker the load/amps have to pass thru a coil of wire that act as an electro-magnet, but just when huge amount of current pass thru it, so when a pure short is present with thousands of amps, the electro-magnet pulls the triggering mechanism of the breaker and opens the circuit. Simple design, very effective.

That is a pretty awesome Ultimate Extension cord! digging that 4 port USB A and the receptacle with the USB C. Great build!

I thoroughly enjoyed the re-purposing of the cord in the first video. Ya'll went Tim Allen on this one 😆 ! 5 stars

Although I don't remember exactly how long ago it was but somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 years ago I was faced with an extension cord with a bad female end. I didn't have a replacement handy but I did have a metal two gang box and some receptacles, so I put them on the end of the cord and still have that cord today. It makes a pretty versatile extension cord where I can actually plug in four different things. It's really handy when you're working on a job and you're using a drill and a saw and a light and God knows what else and you can plug them all into the one cord so you don't have to unplug something to plug something else in every time you want to switch tools. Anyway, great video that is an awesome ultimate extension cord.

Love the build. One thing I would be concerned about is the life span of those cover plates. Corners have a good chance of snagging. A frame around the boxes so they have something to sit on should be an easy fix.

Really enjoy watching you’re guy’s video. You guys have great attitudes! Thanks for the ideas!!!

Watching your custom extension videos was sooooooo instantly gratifying......

Big improvement from the last video, couple things for people looking to replicate this: 1. There's no right way to hook stranded around a screw, just use a solid pigtail. 2. Those usb receptacles are convenient but the power supplies are always cheap crap that leak power like a sieve at best and are fire hazards at worst. 3. In case anyone was confused by Stud's comment in the beginning, this is still not OSHA kosher.

I thought about making one like the smaller one you guys made but with an outlet with USB-A. However seeing the plywood backer for the cord wrap feature and hole to hang it got me thinking and possible add a few other features like a cradle to hold a phone while it charges. Maybe a little shelf with a hinge and kickstand.

thanks for including part numbers. Makes building it easier.

Well I know what I'm doing today. Building a ultimate job site extension cord! Thanks for all the tips. I love your videos! You all have a blessed day. 👍

Just FYI there are tons of products out there which will charge devices via USB-C, but the part where you're referring to being able to charge an iPhone 12 from 0% to 100% in ~1hr is because of Power Delivery. This IS proprietary to USB-C, but not all USB-C chargers feature Power Delivery. If you want this kind of high speed charging you need to make sure that your device is capable of charging with Power Deliver, and you charger is specifically designed to do Power Delivery, (often called USB-C PD accompanied by a wattage rating like 18W, 20W, 30W, etc...). If you don't see any mention of Power Delivery on a charger you're thinking about buying, then it does not have it. They are more expensive, but well worth it.

Awesome job! Those screws on the sides of electrical outlets are very interesting. I used to think they were a combination of Slotted and Phillips, but I was wrong. Slotted screwdrivers don’t work well as they can slide around too easily. Phillips head screwdrivers in those screws work better, but these screws are not designed for Phillips drive. You can see in the middle of the screw a square hole (not a pointed Phillips hole). This is called a Robertson drive (square drive). It fits perfectly (no sliding) and allows you to easily drive them even in odd positions. You can buy Robertson drivers at most tool outlets, but there is an even better solution that I recently discovered. Milwaukee makes an ECX driver that is specifically for electrical work (insulated down to the tip). The ECX driver is a combination of Slotted and Robertson drives. It’s been great for my amateur electrical work. It comes in two sizes - #1 is for normal stuff. (Jordan - Father’s Day is coming).

For some reason this video speaks to me. My Father is like a God from what everyone says when it comes to home improvement and I've been around it my whole life so when you mentioned your son records you it touched me man. I love it

"What we do not use up, we use again" seems like the theme of these two extension cord projects.

You can also use a seam ripper (used for removing stitches in clothes) to cut the wire shield off, it works for automotive wire harnesses good. Love the videos!!

Watching your videos reminds me of working with my dad, God rest his soul. Bud, cherish these days of working with the old man. You will never forget the life lessons weaved throughout his common sense work ethics and skills. Love your Stud Pack videos, thanks. Oh, and I have some old heavy duty cords from my Dad, I know what I'm doing with em this weekend.

Excellent Video, you have great Communication skills and also great Video Camera operator . I live in Oregon and it’s constantly raining. Your GFCI SYSTEM is Awesome.

Brilliant !! Such great skill. I'm a big fan of your first extension cord. Thank you.

Really usefull idea! For better safety always make the protective wire longer than hot and cold wire, so that it's the last wire that can be drawn loose in the case of a loosen clamping plate.

The next thing I’d like to see is an extension cord that allows for 240 volt input and has a built in breaker panel on the board, that way you can run a really high power device like a table saw or a planer. You also get a nice advantage if you use 240 for the cord, because by adding one more wire and using a 4 conductor cord you can either run a 240 volt tool or you can split the phases and have twice as much power for 120 volts. You could also add one of those little voltage and current readout displays that way you know how much power you are drawing. And as for why the breaker didn’t trip at almost 30 amps, if it’s a 20 amp breaker it is expected to hold at 100% of its capacity (20A) and thermal trip at 125% of its rated capacity, and magnetic trip (short circuit) at 200% it’s rated capacity, thermal trips usually take a while, because when you have a current surge on say a saw it can often pull over 20 amps, and you don’t want the breaker to trip every time you start your saw. ElectricianU has a good video on that subject

Now that's a awesome build gotta make one of those thanks for the sharing

Wow that little bonus, showing the amp meter while clogging the vac was super interesting. And incredibly enlightening! Thanks Stud pack.

I like it! The one change I will make is a spool because wrapping cords around static cord storage twists them. I like a detachable cord (from the board), with one of those sunk-in cord sockets, which helps with the spool being simple as well as allows any extension-cord to be use. Thanks guys!

I have been wiring devices all my life. With few alterations I think this was spot on. As usual I would personalize it for my own particular needs...but it was the best homeowner instruction level one yet. I did a 240 volt 50 amp one off of a range plug and a small subpanel. It had 240v, 120v and gfi protection. DEFINITELY not water resistant or OSHA approved. I can weld with it and run anything 120v ..with full breaker protection. Not pretty either.

great info, great delivery, and great comment section. I just fell in love with this channel

Came across this video and loved every minute of it. More joy when I realized I was already subscribed! The comment section is absolutely amazing as well. Great community!

As a 20 year contractor I found your video to be very entertaining, educational, and useful. My OCD flared up when you mismatched the colors on the plates and plugs, but AL in all, a great vid guys as usual. Thanks for representing the construction field so well. Keep up the awesome vids.

Rotate the boxes 90 degrees. The wire on plugs that point down will tangle up across the other plugs. Having them point out instead of along the unit. Great job. Loved the hospital plug info. Great for heavy use and heavy load.

The first video I ever saw of yours was the extension cord repair video you mentioned at the beginning. It was a YT recommended video. I've watch every one since, and gone back to watch a lot of your older videos. Keep up the great (team) work.

Awesome idea! Love all functionality in this one

Hospital grade stuff. Wow. Nice work.

I actually made one based on your prior video - and love it.

Amazing. Don’t know why I’ve been skipping over this vid since you guys posted it. I’m building this one for myself. Thx.

Awesome project idea.. Thanks for all the details..

A small suggestion: The strain relief as mounted at the end of that little extending pipe (instead of being mounted through a plain hole in the panel wall of the box) could snap off if it gets tugged sideways really hard. You could reinforce it by adding a U-shaped 2-hole conduit or pipe strap, screwed to the board near the end of the strain relief.

Nice job as always guys, love your videos! Not an electrician, just a DIY enthusiast, but a couple things stuck out to me: 1. You only need stranded wire if the wire can be moved around (e.g. the extension cord bit, or in a flexible conduit) - internal to the boxes between devices can be solid without issue, and would be easier to connect. 2. Seems to me if you have a 20-amp receptacle, I think technically you'd need a 20 amp plug on the supply end to physically prevent you from using a 15-amp outlet. I suspect that inline GFCI is only rated for 15 amps. 3. It's a shame the strain relief on this one didn't have the flexible spring to prevent hard angles at the connection. Keep killing it! :D