Thanks for the video! I have your Whizbang Idea Book for Gardeners, and love it. I've made several of the wood and wire totes for gifts and for my own use, and that alone was worth the price of the book.
Late to the party but boy does this hit home for me. I used to just use boiled linseed oil on my garden tools and that works great but I also use beeswax on the iron surfaces in my wood shop and I like the idea of adding that to the garden handles mix. But the real motivator for me to post this comment is to plus 1 on the perfume that is turpentine.
Elizabeth L. Johnson said, I've written this before, but again: I watched a friend's place while she was gone, watering, digging (I don't know why), but left her shovel, or whatever tool dirty with dirt on them. Then she saw them upon arriving home. She was quite upset I hadn't taken care of her tools. My friend was close to ninety years old, and I was maybe 40. Come to find out, her generation didn't have abundance, of anything, especially back then while growing up. They had one shovel, one hoe, etc. It wasn't easy to afford purchasing tools. I've read how people had in their tool shed back then, a box of oiled sand, deep enough to cover the metal part of the tool. After they used tools, they cleaned them, and stored them in this sand box that oiled their tool until another use. Now this didn't address wooden handles. I bet people have been doing your method for hundreds of years. Take care of what you own; except nowadays so much is cheap and disposable. Still, it's better to be a good steward. Thanks for a good video.
Great job. Been reading/watching you for maybe 15 years or more... you have shamed me in a good way to take better care of my tools. :D. LOL.... tool cleaning wax for aromatherapy. I like old fashioned pine sol for the same reason.
I did this as wood preservative with mineral spirits, paraffin, and boiled linseed oil on the raised bed boards. same principle but I bet yours smells better. by the way, wish the handle folks would use a different glue for their labels, they are really hard to get off.
Boiled Linseed oil isn't actually boiled, it means it has chemicals in it, to make it dry faster. That's the reason I use Raw Linseed oil. The best method, is to apply 2-3 hands of Raw linseed oil, 1 after it dries then another. That way, the oil gets inside all the wood and not just the surface and that's what you want, to make the wood way tougher, with less chances to break. Then, if you want to seal the outer wood more, you apply beeswax and that's it!!! It may take longer, waiting those coatings of raw oil to dry, however, you do a proper job, that will provide more and better results.
@@filipfalk I'm a chemist, what you describe has nothing to do, with what I say. Nowdays, "Boiled linseed oil" means it is not 100% pure oil, but also has other substances in it. I didn't brought all this out of my mind. That's the reason why most people use Raw linseed oil, for axe handles etc. It will take a bit longer to dry, but will really provide a proper better result.
@@greekveteran2715 it depends on where you live. Here in Sweden you can buy the clean boiled linseed oil among several different types. There’s even a variety that’s exposed to sunlight for a long period of time.
@@filipfalk Bolied has either Manganese or Cobalt or both if not other substances too! They mix all these and boil it, because they want to make it dry much faster!! However, if it dries that fast, then the oil doesn't reach inside the wood, it stays on the outer parts of it! Also pure oil, is what you want, for a natural material like wood, to make it stronger and a bit more water resistant!! I use it both for drawing, wood creations and on my tools,
By letting it cool slowly, will the ingredients separate at all. I've made boot and mustache wax and cool it rapidly in ice water immediately after stirring so nothing can settle on the bottom or float to the top
Just a question If we're looking for it to soak in the wood why not apply it as a liquid mix soon after it came off the bqq ? And then use the cooled wax mixture as a maintenance after . Wouldn't that be the best of both worlds ?
Would this be alright on leather? I'm thinking for work boots or maybe work gloves to help condition and waterproof. I think the turpentine would help it penetrate and then dry. Maybe 2:1:1 with more oil so it's a bit more supple when it sets.
🇨🇦 @Herrick Kimball - UPDATE Jan25/23 I recently made my first batch... 1part beeswax 3parts coconut oil and 10 drops Lavender oil AND it works great. *Dated Dec 2022- "Instead of using the "Boiled Linseed Oil" can I use Coconut Oil instead and still mix that with the beeswax and turpentine? " Thank you so much.
@@herrickkimball Dude, read my whole comment, the bottom part is the old question and you said to post when I try it and this is me letting you know in the "Updated" part of this post, that I did do it and it's great lmao! Geesh! LOL 😆
