Just wanted to let everyone know that I didn't pay or force Daryl to use my tape for this vlog. Thanks for sharing this great idea though, Bevins Bricks.
You're a genius, thank you so much for sharing this information! No longer should people waste 20$ on a single straight track lol, I salute you. Thank you so much!
Have been doing the tape for a while. The only thing is the transition from standard 9v track and plastic track with tape at times is derailing my train. I eventually want all LEGO standard 9v track but they are averaging $5 a piece for the straight plus tax and shipping which isn't cheap right now bringing it about $6.50 to $7 a piece. I just ordered some of FX Bricks straight tracks to see what they are like and I will be doing a review of it soon. It still wasn't cheap - with shipping would be equal to $5.90 each of LEGO straight piece. These are 32 stud long track so one track is equal to 2 LEGO. I am hoping with less connection points the stronger the current will be to the motors. I can't wait for FX Bricks' small 9v pieces and different radius curves to come out later this year. As well as new motors. Seems like they will help bring back the 9v system which I absolutely love. -Steve-
Absolutely wonderful bevin!!! I always thought the 9v was the superior of the two systems. This is honestly one of the best, easiest, and affordable options I have seen for a conversion.
I've really been wanting to play around with arguing and the raspberry pi myself. Think you could really add some awesome features to a Lego city that way.
Its the cheapest way to go and saves a ton of money, Ive actuallt been looking into ways to make my own track and 9v motors, costs are rather high though.
Thank you so much for this! I actually found a 9v motor in a large haul of LEGO that I just bought. Had no idea it was even in there. I teste the motor, it works fine. Need to get a speed controller and the pieces to connect to the track. Just recently bought 4 boxes of track and the Hogwarts Express... going to build and motorize using the 9v motor! :-) Thanks again Darryl!
Lego should’ve kept this system. We’ve gone through so many batteries with the new ones. Now, this is a fantastic idea. But, almost thinking would it be better to get the layout setup, THEN tape the tracks as that would be one continuous strip? Of course till the 2 ends meet up. ;)
Wow !!! Really impressive !! You continue to blow me away. Your definitely the MacGyver in the LEGO Community. Dont be surprised if i start calling you MacGyver. lol Your awesome brother !! 😎
Very cool tutorial. I have no electrical skills but I am about to attempt to replace the wires on my 9 V brick contacts for set 4561. Keep up the excellent work
Aluminum tape might look like a better match but I wonder if the conductivity is suitable. I have HVAC tape I use to seal duct joints: if you have or get some, perhaps a side-by-side comparison of current measurements are in order? Longevity might cause problems, too. Sure it is easy to re-tape a track piece, or even re-tape an entire installation while in place, but how long will it last? Maybe run a motor on a loop until the tape wears out somewhere and see how long it takes to fail? Or confirm you can get at least x hours out of it? There is so much possible experimentation here! Nothing beats the real thing, but good on ya for the suggestions here. - MeisterDad.
Aluminium has 0.6 times the conductivity of copper, but that copper tape he is using is only 1 mil, the standard HVAC tape seems to be 3 - 4 mil, so it has at least twice the conductivity and you don't even need to reinforce the joints. Adding 7 mil to the tracks might make them a little tight on the wheels though.
Respectfully, I think you should use a better camera for your headshots that have a little depth of field, the background would look really good defocused behind you, it's really busy, just my two cents, fan of the channel, hope this helps
Not sure what your editor is, but most have a way to copy audio tracks from one to the other so you don't have to worry about the leftness or rightness of the audio.
Just seeing this now, awesome. Absolutely awesome. Such a money saver. Two questions though. 1. I see their is aluminium foil available as well, would it work just as good as the copper. Or would the copper be better for conductivity? 2. How durable is the tape? Are you still using tracks with it? Does it wear off easily?
Aluminum would work the conductiviy is much better with copper. As for lasting it does wear out over time, but Im not sure how long it takes, I can tell you it will last a long time for the typical user.
Just discovered to you. This is brilliant! I wish I had seen this before I sold my large quantity of standard track to help pay for 9 V tracks! I don’t know much about electrical stuff but the copper is safe to use and won’t heat up and melt the plastic tracks?
A little off topic but I figured a recent video is best place to ask. A few weeks ago you did a video on the new road plates and had some parking spots marked with yellow lines. You didn’t go into much detail on that and there isn’t any instructions up on rebrickable. We’re you planning on doing instructions? If not, can you do a video maybe? Would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks for all the content you put out. By far my favorite lego channel!
@@DiscoChickenNugget yeah I know. But he also used road plates for the road. I’m more wondering how he did the angles for the sidewalk. Im using road plates to set up our brand new city so I just wasn’t sure how he had it all connected and set up.
Looks really nice! Can anyone comment from personal experience how the tape holds up over use? It has such a finished appearance here when first applied, does it continue to stay so flat and smoothly adhered to the track?
Not sure why someone would want to remove the copper tape, but I wonder if that adhesive is detrimental to the 'LEGO' plastic? Im guessing not, but have you ever tried to remove the tape after some extended period of time? Again, I dont know why someone would want to remove it.
It does work, but it loses conductivity over time. The tape is a pain to remove and replace. I've done a lot of layouts using this method, but it's not durable.
The link for the tape is in the description and below as well. Studio Pro 7/32-Inch Silver Lined Copper Foil Tape a.co/d/3U52L2b This has a paper back that removes, the underside of the tape is the same as the front which is copper. But the back has adhesive on it.
I have a question regarding this technic is it safe to do a garden/outside loop with these modified tracks, or does it have risks considering the copper and the wind and weather...
@@BevinsBricksWorld thank you so much for the recommendation! will do I was kinda thinking of doing model railways with legos outside so that is very helpful to know
I am 17 and only have Power Functions and I want to make a modula Lego Railway I am Questioning tho if I should Upgrade to 9 volt Except for steam trains where I will use Power functions also does copper last long enough?
Hi dear bevins brick! I have an important question for you! :D The copper tape you use hasn't started to oxidize for you? The problem for me is that I used some cheaper non-branded tape and unfortunately it started to oxidize. And if there is a site where the tape used in the video is still for sale, please write it down under my comment, thanks in advance :D
@@BevinsBricksWorld I don't know... It's like using Lepin bricks to create MILS plates (example)... Nobody cares because nobody knows but it's there ! 🤔... I don't know maybe I like Lego trains/tracks a little bit too much lol 😉
