HOW TO MIX LIME MORTAR [Bricklaying for beginners e.p 6] 

Hmm Betty 😂👌

I agree, where do you find sand like that?! Everything around here is gray-ish

@@Ev-eq8zn daaaaaan saaaaaaaf

Hi just done a repair to our geordian terrace house, mortar redish sand. My repair has come out white. I used a 3 sand to 1 lime mix. What I do?

Cheers pal 😁👍🏻 I did one about a year ago but it is in dire need of being updated so there will be a new one coming in the next couple of weeks.

How did the project go? I've been looking at using clay mortar for a wood oven.

Well, it seemed to behave similar to how the Master was showing us in the video, but I don’t think I’d use it again. I used the stove for two seasons, mainly for heat (I live in the northeast corner of the US) and I have several areas where the mortar has cracked. It is possible that I messed up some of the batches but I tried very hard to measure everything consistently. I think I might have to dismantle part of it and try resetting it with Rodian’s lime mixture 🤔. Thanks for asking 😊

Cheers buddy 🧱😁👍🏻

You can get those paddle mixers or a cheaper alt is the drill attachment kind. Mixing by hand does get easier the more mixes you make, if that makes any sense.

Don’t need to the lime is the ultimate

We must have been lucky, our stuff at college was pretty good. The good ol 90° bucket mix technique👌🏼The best word of the week🤣🤣🤣

I remember the pan mixer . Happy days

Depends on the brick and how soft or hard it is

I would use specific plastering sand and cement with a plastering additive to plaster walls 🤙🏼🧱

@@RodianBuilds great videos, any tips for plastering with lime mortar

@@RodianBuilds no cement on solid walls lime all the way

Yeah if you want it to all wash out lol

Please note: this video is showing a lime-sand mix for teaching purposes, allowing the resulting structure to be dismantled after the students have left. The bricks, and even the mortar, can then be easily recycled. This is not a mortar recipe for permanent construction.

Cheers buddy. I'm getting quite a few comments asking about the house so i'm doing a video about it. Should be up in the next week or two

This mix is only for teaching purposes. The lime is essential.

Consistent ratios

Thx

the best way is using natural hydraulic lime (NHL 3,5 or NHL 5) not pure hydratized lime

@@niktznany8871 no it's not, as it's unpredictable and can cause problems with some types of stone, especially in damp environments. A pure lime mortar which has been made hydraulic is far easier to predict with regards to impurities like sulfates and nitrates. As well as binding the free lime better, preventing lime leaching and other minerlisation like the formation of gypsum on the surface of sandstone.

​@corindoyle so you're referring to 'hydrated masons lime', correct? I want to knock up my own repointing mortar for my home's foundation. I've come up with a materials list of: 2 parts soft sand 1 part sharp sand 1 part hydrated masons lime For a nod to authenticity I think I shall add the 10% wood ash. Am I on the right track?

@@jimmeh213 yeah that's the one. But I'd suggest 1 kiln dried and 5 sharp sand as soft is the wrong shape. It's round not angular. If you can swap 1 of those sharp for some crushed stone dust even better. 5mm to dust limestone, granite or slate is good and you should be able to get something like that. Good luck

No. drill is for making holes. But you can use a mixer attachment to fix stuff.

Hydrated lime

B&Q don't sell hydraulic lime as far as I am aware 😀.

I've read sharp sand is better, but having pointed my front wall, I think a mix of sharp and building sand would be easier for pointing. I did 2.5 sharp to hydraulic lime, it was quite coarse

It's hydrated mate. You shouldn't use hydrated lime as a mortar. It's only used as a plasticer. If I was building in lime I would be using an Natural Hydraulic lime 2-3.5

@@LiamGrubby definitelly yes! Another good option is using lime putty.

Yes

Bucket trowel

It depends how hot of a day it is, just add water if it starts to go off while you're using it. I re use mine as many times as I can as long as it doesnt get to hard

This vid is practice mortar. I.e never sets. The lime used to do building work is differe t to the lime in this vid

Lime terms are confusing. Air lime is high calcium (low natural impurities to act as pozzolan) and comes as a putty or hydrated lime powder. I have successfully used hydrated lime powder slaked it as a putty for several days or weeks, and then used it with sand to render a cob oven for weatherproofing. Such hi calcium lime hardens through carbonation as it reabsorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, so it needs to be protected from weather for several weeks and does not reach full hardness for months or years. Natural hydraulic lime (NHL) comes from limestone containing clay impurities and has a hydraulic set similar in some ways to Portland cement. NHL also frequently comes as a hydrated lime powder, is still vapor permiable (breathable) and more flexible than Portland cement, but goes off faster than air lime. Either high calcium air lime or NHL is often used as the binder in mortars when repairing historic buildings.

@SuperVHSchannel thanks !

Quite so, have a look here : www.roundtowerlime.com/post/guide-to-mixing-natural-hydrualic-lime-mortar (assuming you are using NHL 3.5).

You shouldn't use hydrated lime for pointing. Hotlime, lime putty or NHL2-3.5. The lime he is using should only be used as an additive for cement. If your building was built before 1919 then avoid cement as it destroys buildings

Natural Hydraulic Lime. It is made from limestone that naturally contains impurities that act as a pozzolan. The higher the number the more hydraulic it is. NHL 2 behaves closer to lime putty, NHL 5 behaves closer to cement.

Hardware stores

Yes you can re use it. That's exactly what i do. Just make sure to remove any really dry lumps if its been left to dry for a few days or in the sun.

All day long 🥮🍽🤣

stfu

We used to at college hydrated lime is basically a plasterciser and needs Portland cement to make it go off it’s hydronic like that will go off on its own

Wondering the same

Already on it buddy. Hopefully I'll have it up by the end if the week or early next week 👍🏻😁🧱

I've also purchased a n 8m fisco tape meshure. Thanks for sharing it

Yes u can .just on what spec of the job, ratio of mix u do i usually do 6 sand 1 cement 1 lime . .but iv never mixed cement with in french lime

Anthony said it 👍🏻 I've mostly done 5 sand, 1 cement and 1 lime. Dont have to use plastersizer when using lime 👍🏻😁🧱

@@RodianBuilds it's only how ive been taught

You can do, with natural stone we tend to go for a 6 sand 1 lime 1 cement mix or you could use a hydraulic lime such as a nhl 3.5 at a 3:1 mix with no cement, that will give you a bright coloured mix.

Using old reclaimed bricks or stone i prefer mix 3 sand 3 sharp sand 1 cement 1 lime mix too

They're referring to NHL (natural hydraulic lime) which should always be used on old buildings because it allows the walls to breathe preventing damp. Hydrated lime is a different thing, it won't set if you make mortar from it so it's good for practice work.

@@AM-lf2iw thanks A M. I've listened in on a few conversations but kept my nose out from asking questions! So they use that instead of cement? A surveyor was mentioning the other week to the customer about their plasterer using lime... makes more sense now

From what i've read i believe you should use whatever the original muck was made of.

I have a Victorian, sandstone building that's previously been pointed (ouch - big-time) using sand and cement. I recently contacted 'Hanson' (Cements, Concretes, Aggregates, Limes etc) and they provided me with the information I'd not had a direct answer to in around 3 years, namely, what type of lime should I be using to re-point my crumbling sandstone building? 'Not had a direct answer to', is predominantly down to suppliers still running in 'builders-use-cement' mode - they simply weren't positive or just didn't know. Quick history: Tradesmen stopped using original building materials (limes etc) around 100 years ago when cement became widely available, preferring the new, 'with-it' 'cool' stuff to carry out repairs, and when buildings like mine needed re-pointing, guess what they used? In fairness to these tradesmen, they couldn't possibly know back then that using cement to point old properties was in fact damaging them, extensively. It's my guess that had they known what horrors they were handing down for future home owners they'd never have used the destructive cement mortar. Destructive - why? Well, it seems the old limes would allow rain water OUT of the brick/stone whereby maintaining the integrity of the stone, where cement mortar was actually holding the water IN - boom. Only after a few decades passed (or less) would you see the results of these destructive cement mortars - the stone in these fine old buildings spalling and crumbling - while the rock-hard cement remained, in pretty little squares on your wall. You'll probably see graphic pics online showing someone's hand gripping a strap of cement mortar while the actual stone it's been fixed to has decayed into the background - mine isn't quite at that stage, but hold my beer.. Anyway, the guy in Hanson emailed me back and advised I needed a Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL) 3.5 (better check your own, personal requirements). In the 3 or so years I've been promising to repair my Victorian building, there's been a fairly dramatic increase in very useful and helpful information around the 'mystery' of lime. There's now much more knowledge, more websites and of course a growing resource of RU-vid people offering fantastic advice. Among my favs, I've been watching a relatively recent channel 'GMT Pointing Specialists Ltd' who's very passionate about the use of correct materials on building repairs - limes - and damn scathing of those persisting with cement mortars on traditional buildings. GMT (Glenn) is informative and willing to offer advice - just like Rodian in his excellent videos. I have no affiliation with GMT or Rodian but have gleaned so much from these people that I feel it will benefit both them, and us, by promoting their work. Do the research before embarking on major stuff , you'll be enlightened, enriched and will most likely be the guy/girl responsible - in the last 50 years - for saving your property, with the additional benefit of increasing, considerably, the selling price of your property.

From what I understand the NHL will even set under water?

Stihl 38 would the mix you mentioned be fine for ‘plastering’ over bare brickwork as well as re-pointing?

I use NHL for building with reclaimed brick.About 3 times the cost of cement but is more eco friendly so is a big hit with some customers.

@@brethrenphil how long could it take to set this time of year? And what kind of paint could I use on it once cured? Cheers

Hi, any pointers for best mix and tips for reporting a chimney? NHL5, plaster and sharp sand, and not too much water is what I've picked up on videos on the net.

Do you happen to know the right ratio when using lime putty (stored under water)