How To: One Day Epoxy and Polyaspartic Flake

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Doing a flake floor in one day might lead a supplier to train there’s only enough time if the body coat acts as a primer too. Certainly this concept works. There are plenty of one day two coat systems in place that are functioning just fine. For the floors that have a few issues with porosity or other problems, but still need to be done in a day, there’s a way to treat the slab and keep the schedule.
The video documents the use of an epoxy primer preceding a polyaspartic flake system. Also discussed is the result of sharp flakes caused by skipping a scrape.
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Опубликовано:

9 окт 2022

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Комментарии : 31

@dennisdye2330 7 месяцев назад

This is the first "one-day" installation that i can respect. Nice!!!

@joshjones8047 7 месяцев назад

Thanks so much. I appreciate it.

@carloscortes4312 6 месяцев назад

Right on! I've done resinous floors for 3 years and never would have thought to do it this way while the epoxy is still tacky. These videos are the best!

@joshjones8047 6 месяцев назад

@@carloscortes4312 thanks so much. It’s definitely doable as long your choices of epoxy and poly are compatible. A double check with your preferred supplier is a good idea before this process is attempted. Thank you again.

@MrWepal Год назад

Thanks for the tutorial sir

@Alessiothetruth Год назад

Great video I don't know how I feel about having POLYASPARTIC curing over an Epoxy that is still very soft while the poly is pretty fully cured at around 1 to 2 hours. Even at 4 hours epoxy is still tacky and my worries would be shrinkage from the polyaspartic. Looks like it held up pretty good though. Thanks for experimenting for us it's very valuable information

@joshjones8047 Год назад

Thanks so much. About the poly over the tacky epoxy, this is a valid concern. The tension of the poly is quite low and the epoxy is only filling the surface pores, though. Since they are chemically compatible (in this order), the only concern would be the installer forgetting that the base is still very soft during the scraping phase. Other than that, two days cure would have the floor ready for full traffic. Thank you again for the compliment and the input.

@d.e.brenner2930 Месяц назад

Thanks. Gonna try and DIY it. Your video is very concise and flows well. Thank you for the demonstration. I have been reading and added a google search with what it seems are relevant terms. My Search “DIY 1-day concrete garage floor epoxy process with anti-slip polyspartic clear coat with flakes”. I have some cracks, I will review your page to see what guidance you might provide there.

@d.e.brenner2930 Месяц назад

Reading through all the comments on this thread. This is an experimental technique. Seems the professionals are impressed and also providing good feedback/questions. Likely too advanced for my first-time DIY without further guidance and LUCK! Haha. Your video is very succinct. I will have to purchase the spiked shoes too; $15 Amazon.

@joshjones8047 Месяц назад

You’re welcome. Good luck with it. Thank you for the compliment. About the cracks, you’ll find a few videos there. As per usual, cracks and joints are best treated with proper prep before any resin or cement based patching begins. Thanks again-

@d.e.brenner2930 Месяц назад

I found this crack video. I this this is a good one. The comments mention the materials. I can see where making a crack "controlled cut" is really good. That lets you calculate the volume of the filler much easier. Nice tip with the sand. My garage floor has a 4-section segmented layout. Crack runs down the middle. On a side note, went to home to see if I could get the diamind grinder, vacuum wand, shot blaster and magnet cart as rentals. No shot blaster. So I imagine I will end up doing just a clean, degrease, muriatic acid, water rinse, solid epoxy, clear coat process. The diamond grinder, still seems like I would have trim walls with an angle grinder or such. Lack of negative fine dust extraction with shot blaster, will make surface preparation less useful. Thanks for the feedback. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WxQtCpMmwCE.htmlsi=gM3HD05qxMDWtt5M

@easypainterslondon 8 месяцев назад

great

@pamelacohen6525 3 месяца назад

Really appreciate your helpful technical videos. For some reason our freshly installed top polyaspartic clear coat has areas of foamy/cloudy bubbles, some areas have just clear bubbles but lots of cloudiness in other areas which is troublesome. We only have one layer of flakes, I'm wondering if the applicator can sand it down to remove the cloudy coat, try not to remove the flakes, and apply another top coat. 1. What would you do to remove the top layer? Should the applicator sand the top coat to remove the cloudy bubbles, and try to not remove the single layer of flakes? What tool/grit should that be? Do you recommend grinding off the top layer instead of sanding, and if so, will that remove too much flake and require another layer of flakes with polyaspartic or clear epoxy? 2. Is scraping and vacuuming sufficient if he doesn't have a shot blaster? What would you do? We already have invested a lot and want it to turn out and last. We installed vapor barrier, and after that cured, a primer, then a tan epoxy with flake, scraping, and clear polyaspartic coat. 3. What can be done to avoid the foamy bubbles on the top coat? I am not sure if it was the temperature of the material being in the 50s, the puddling, or both. I appreciate your feedback. Thank you!

@joshjones8047 3 месяца назад

Thank you for the compliment. About the bubbles, it’s likely a Polyaspartic resin that has been used as a top coat. Bubbles/foam can occur when the material is applied too thick and/or conditions cause a chemical reaction that produces bubbles which become trapped. Correcting this condition without affecting the underlying flake can be difficult. At the very least, I’d sand the surface to smooth the bubbles. The cloudy spots where it’s puddled will like remain the same. Once sanded, it would then be okay to apply another coat that is more uniform. Alternative to this, a sanding and cleaning could be done. Then apply another flake coat. Then a top coat to protect the fresh flake. It’s not possible to fix a clear coat unless it’s fully removed or masked by a new layer. Thank you again-

@eddiep6803 Год назад

Just came across your videos and wanted to say how much I appreciate the technical depth you go to and how concisely but well you explain each concept. I do have a question... Do you have a recommended approach for adding a second clear top coat layer of polyaspartic, after the initial polyaspartic top coat has already cured, when you do find that the initial top coat layer was too thin?

@joshjones8047 Год назад

Thanks so much for the kind words. If the polyaspartic is outside the chemical re-coat window then it should be de-glazed by sanding. If it’s over a flake, this is a bit more involved because it’s not smooth. I’ll find the video about deglazing polyaspartic over flake and add it as another comment/reply. Thank you again.

@joshjones8047 Год назад

Here is the video related to deglazing a cured poly over flake: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iiqIKLTjNBo.html

@eddiep6803 Год назад

@@joshjones8047 Thank you, sir! De-glazing polyaspartic over flake is indeed the task I'm facing. The video provided some very good ideas.

@seanmiller449 4 месяца назад

I am just wondering why a trawl was used on this first epoxy coat? Was it to make a very tight thin layer while at the same time forcing the material into the surface?

@joshjones8047 4 месяца назад

That’s a good point. Yes, it was used to keep the skim coat tight to the floor, and to break material surface tension to help the air escape the floor’s pores.

@pc2181 4 месяца назад

Hey Josh, Thanks a lot for the awesome video! So, I've got this polyaspartic flake coating on my garage floor. It's barely a month old and already starting to peel where the hot tires touch. I did some googling and it looks like this is a thing with epoxy floors, but shouldn't be happening with polyaspartic. Would love to hear your thoughts. Cheers!

@joshjones8047 4 месяца назад

Thanks so much for the compliment. Polyaspartic shouldn’t peel but it’s my understanding that some tire types have olefins (I think that’s the correct term) which can act as an adhesive when the tires are warm. It’s hard to say if that’s what’s happening, but the only way I’ve been told to avoid this occurrence is to put down mats where the warm tires will park, or allow the tires to cool before pulling onto the floor. The above assumes the coating was installed correctly and is the appropriate product for the application. Hopefully this helps. Thanks again.

@brandocommando4459 Месяц назад

IMO they didn't prep your floor correctly, or used some cheap material that wasn't rated for heat. If you use full solid epoxy (you can't purchase as a non installer) then you'll never have a hot tire pickup. I've done them for years, and even done warehouses where forklifts are driven on, and even at places such as boeing where they make air planes. Usually only places where epoxy is not good to install is around commercial kitchens by the air fryers, in that case you could have someone install a similar product called Ucrete and it'll look the same, epoxy should also not be installed outdoors in direct sunlight (do to uv rays yellowing out the floor/walls). Another note, if you ever get a true epoxy floor installed, it is best to make your final coating with a polyurethane, or a polyaspartic. Sorry for the rant, I help run a company and hate misinformation.

@serhiynikolayev2377 9 месяцев назад

Where can I purchase the base and sealer?

@joshjones8047 9 месяцев назад

Thank you for the request. Here is where to get it: buymanufacturersdirect.com/product-category/manufacturers/smith-paints/

@serhiynikolayev2377 9 месяцев назад

@@joshjones8047 Thanks for the link. Are there any stores or companies that cary these products?

@Ab3g Год назад

Did you need to add the white to the broadcast coat?

@joshjones8047 Год назад

Yes. The polyaspartic is sold as a clear. The pigment is added as needed to match the flake.

@Ab3g Год назад

@@joshjones8047 but if its a full broadcast couldn't you get away with just using the clear anyway? the chips will cover the entirety of the floor any no?

@joshjones8047 Год назад

@@Ab3g that’s a good question. The illusion is that a single broadcast will cover a floor completely. This is made possible by coloring the base coat. If the base coat is kept clear, then a double broadcast would be required to prevent any bare spots. Looking closely at any single broadcast floor, it’s possible to find some spots that are not completely covered. It’s because the flakes fall at different angles and can limit fill adhesion. The colored base coat hides the problem.