I've been a body and paint tech for 45 years. I have painted over 400 flame jobs, the hardest to for me is to keep any speck of silver or flake out of a black paint job with artwork ., like flames. good vid. no music is a plus. good deal and God bless.
Thanks David! If you are doing flames over a black base, it does help to clearcoat the black first, then resand. Do your flames, then clean any blow through. Be sure to blow and tack real good once you are ready to reclear (or candy/clear) once the flames are done. Also, I have a SATA that I keep black in all the time. You may be using a gun that had a little metallic in it to start with.
David, it also helps to spray a 'very light' and thin coat of over-reduced basecoat/clear over the flames. This way when you are tacking and wiping, the silver is protected from the basecoat/clear
Hi 👋, I am new to your paint work shop, amazing job, Great territorial, very glad that there’s no music, as somebody else commented as well. I have had a go at painting normally just one solid colour, but did have a go at doing moonscape landscape on the side of the van which actually did turn out quite nice. Had a lot of comments about it., this was in the late 60s early 70s , around the mid 90s I purchased my first Harley, 1200s then 1340 FXR the 1450 DEUCE, Which sadly I had to sell in 2019 I had it for roughly 20 years! With over 55,000 miles on the clock, and never let me down, I like my EX female partner. Who has just scammed me for a serious amount of money, however, I have open to purchase another bike soon. I’m now 71 years young, and I can’t wait to get back on a bike, Keep up the great work. Stay safe. , now have a look at more at your territorials., I have literally seen tens of thousands of Harley bikes over the years at hog rallies, I’ve even met Willie G , I have even got their autographs on a T-shirt, Barcelona, 2003. Ride Safe, I look forward to your next territorial, PHIL FROM THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOULIN FRANCE.
Very cool. Sounds like you've been around the block like me....except I'm still married and a tad bit younger (61) Good luck on getting that new bike!! Sounds like you're anxious to get it. Also, glad you enjoy the videos. Lot's going on in my life right now (wife's health). Had to close the business after 21 years, so unsure when the next vid will be.
Thanks peter. Even though I've done thousands of these type jobs, it's still gratifying to do a base, another color, then really change the complete look and make the paint job come alive by applying candy over it.
I saw a tank online and I loved it. I searched high and low to find who painted that tank. It was flames with drop shadows tangerine - black were dominate colors. Then I find your youtube channel and thought to myself, this is the guy!!! Great work. Thanks for sharing your creation of this art, as that's what it is for sure! There are Automotive painters and there are Automotive Artists! I can tell you've done this a while and are a true artist at what you do!!
I've recently got into airbrushing I used to sit in my garage every night practicing the hardest thing you can do for real flames just can't get my technique and my colors down I think I'm rushing it you guys make it look so simple play Georgia video hope to see some more
Thanks...possibly I'll do one later on down the road. I've done many of these type double flame jobs but haven't done one for awhile. Maybe I'll just do it on a panel so show the basics! Good idea!!
Big thanks for all the explanations throughout the video, considering to paint my bike, it doesnt have side bags and batwing, only gastank and two fenders (HD Dyna Street Bob), how much of paint and clearcoat do I need??
If a basecoat/clearcoat, a pint should do it. If a tri-stage, of course you'll need a pint of the base and a pint of the midcoat. 1 quart clear will do the job!
Sorry for the 'long' delay. I just used a black base and dusted some BC02 silver over it (mixed in some basecoat clear). The silver is just a brighter fine silver. Don't use coarse silver as it will clog up the airbrush. Tangerine was House of Kolor Urethane Kandy (not the KK or KBC)
Awe inspiring result there! I know it's a silly question, but is there a "poor man's" method of applying a large size metal flake to a motorcycle tank without a compressor and proper air gun? I really want to do a flake paint job on my tank but don't have space for the equipment, and can't currently afford the services of a professional like yourself. Is it possible?, or will it almost certainly just look crap? Appreciate your help!
Even if you applied the flake, you'd still need a paint gun to clearcoat over it, resand the clear. Then reclear again. You can use that same gun to do these steps and apply the flake.
@@TAZattitude I know. Having thought it through properly, I've taken the plunge and I'm in the process of buying the equipment to have a crack at laying the flake properly with a gun and compressor, as I think the poor man's method is a bad idea!
@@1071jmkz That's great to hear. Be sure to practice a little on a couple flat panels. Maybe I'll do a video on that specifically. You don't need a lot of pressure to apply the flake. In fact, the lower the better. Don't run the flakes/baseclear though!
@@TAZattitude Thanks for the advice! I've purchased a Flake King 1000 gun, which applies the flake dry, straight onto a layer of wet clear coat (after the base coat) I've heard this is a good method, but we'll see...!
@@1071jmkz I bought a 'flake buster' (I think it was called back then), about 13 years ago. I used it once. I'm just so used to using the gun. Let me know how that works for you.
base clear (also known as 'interclear') acts just like a basecoat. It works great to use to add flakes and to seal in some artwork. It dries quickly. Whereas topcoat clear (regular clear) requires a catalyst and used as a final clear. On Amazon SG-100 amzn.to/3UMkI7Z
thanks for sharing very interesting videos ....the tins turned out amazing love that color....that candy even would look great over just a black base coat .....what is the part number of the candy color.and who makes it....
@@TAZattitude no problem man! I’m actually gonna try some flames on my Savage pretty soon, I guarantee they won’t be as good as yours haha but I’m gonna give it my best shot.
Sure can. Maybe you've came across some pics of the candy color you'd like. You can email them to me I don't know if this is the color you are looking for. This is a mix of a couple candies www.attitudecustompainting.com/gallery4/index/category/942-reference_s0618
I've always like a gold under candy red, candy tangereine, candy brandywine....Gold I think IMHO makes the candies richer looking. Silver makes them slightly brighter
To add to this, it would only really make a difference on a complete part. If comparing gold to silver on the flames, really not much difference at all. To small of an area
Awesome job! What were the times in between coats? I know it depends on the reducer and temperature and environment. As far as cut buff and polish did you post that also? I would love to see that process!!
I normally don't let a job sit too long between coats. A few minutes I would guess. On a bagger, by the time I make my rounds, the first part is ready for the next coat. I've had it before where I let a paint job sit too long between going from UK candy to KU150 clear and it actually started wrinkling.
Sorry, I'm new to this, at 23:00 when it says 2-1-1 what's in the mix? Candy = 2, Reducer = 1, and what's the 3rd component? Thank you, very informative videos.
Thanks TGF305. 2-1-1 (same as 4-2-2) would be UK Kandy )House of Kolor Kandy, then KU100 hardener for the candy, then the reducer. This is ONLY if you use the urethane candy. House of Kolor Kandy concentrate is a different scenario.
What are the wait times between coats, not just flash times. For example after shooting black then shooting clear. How long can I wait to lay out flames. I read a reply where you said you don't like to wait to long between coats. So did you do this whole job in one weekend?
I could easily do this in a couple days, but like I mentioned in another reply, I do about 15 other jobs a week so it may sit between the time I sand the clear and I lay the flames. Yes, I pretty much. If this is your only job you are doing, you can just do the black, let it dry, do the flames, but you MUST do this within a day or 2 so you don't have an adhesion problem. You must also make sure the black is fairly flat. If you clearcoated already, you can sand the next day and do your flames. Or unless it's super cold out. I'd let it cure an extra day
hey I absolutely love this flame job. the only question I have is the metallic coat. I am assuming you used a base clear as the binder correct? what flake did you use. color and size and or make. I know this is a old video but I hope you get this. I am painting my 50 merc and think this will look amazing
What I would suggest since you are doing a big car is just make a 'black metallic. Basically black with probably 10% metallic. Don't worry about doing the black then coating with the base clear/metallic. I would also suggest using a bigger metallic. What I would suggest doing to, is just purchasing solid black, then purchasing a pint of a bigger metallic from that toner system. This way you can mix it to your liking. BE SURE AND DO TEST PANELS FIRST. When you add the metallic and stir it in the black, you want to be able to see it on the paint stick, the more metallic you add, the brighter the base will be. Hope this works out for you!
Awesome job ! Looks amazing ! I had a quick question . How and what did you mix for the black metallic you sprayed over the black base coat and silver flames ? I really like that bronze color !
@@TAZattitude NICE NICE outcome, Taz. As I watched it turn from Black/Silver to Candy Tangerine flames with a hint of Tangerine in the Black, How is it that your Black areas don't get a deep an orange color as the flame parts. As your multiple mist coats of Tangerine progress from Silver to the orange Popping out, HOW is it that the black does not get more and darker orange like the flames did?
@@nighttrain022 thank you...it's because the base is still technically still 'black'. The candy tangerine is transparent. If you spray the tangerine over a solid black, it will remain solid black since there is no metallics in candy (Except HOK KBC) It's the 'metallic's that bring the color up from a black. The more metallic, the brighter the overall candy becomes. Hence the flames are 'silver' metallic and the base just has metallic sparkles over the black. So only the sparkles change colors and the flames are brighter candy. Hope that make sense
@@TAZattitude Id love to see what the end result would be if instead of using the sliver you used Gold, I love this Paint job and sure this is what the customer wanted was over silver, im just curious of the tint it would be if over gold instead of silver, I just bought a new 2021 Road Glide limited n looking into getting it painted
Assuming you mean gold for the flames, it really wouldn't make too much of a difference as far as changing the shade of the tangerine. Now if it's painting a complete part, the gold would be a little richer looking and the silver would be a tad bit brighter. I like using this silver because it's a 'fine' silver so it goes through the airbrush easier versus a coarser flake. If you want sparkle in the flames, you can spray it over the silver (or gold) and THEN apply the candy. So the sparkles would also be tangerine.
I also like buff primer. That is High Teck 77453. I purchase by the gallon. I'm having a problem getting this. Harder to find. I heard materials are getting scarce. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=High+Teck+77453&_sacat=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338465129&toolid=11800&mkevt=1
No, I do not add hardener to it. Though you can do this if you wanted to. If you do not add it though, you have to be sure to let it cure for a bit before topcoating due to all the buildup.
Thanks, I am going to try some flames on an old Shovelhead fender, in practicing for painting my dresser next year. So far I have done only restoration, but I have sprayed candy
Hate to bug you again sir, but can you tell me where I can purchase some of that PPG D769 ultra fine silver ? The only place I can find it online is at O'Reilly auto parts for $290.00/quart..thank you very much
Leonard. You should be able to purchase at any Global jobber, BUT, you can always just look for a 'fine' metallic in a color chip chart and just order it buy code. This way it will already include the binder. If you are only doing one flame job, just order a 1/2 pint if you can.
I have a question. My bike has big blue pearl paint. OEM color. I want to keep that color and add the candy tangerine flames.is that possible? Cause my paint has awesome metallic flakes in it. And it's navy blue.
You can, but instead of silver flames I would suggest airbrusing orange pearl flames. This will make it so it will take less candy tangerine over the flames so the edge will not be that bad. Normally I do silver flames, then a couple coats of candy over the flames, then I coat the complete part in the tangerine. This will 'kill' any silver edge on the flames. In your case, the orange pearl will help this. Keep in mind, the middle of the ghost flames will be a very dark candy. You can always do your flames in silver. Pull off the tape, then coat the complete parts in the candy tangerine. The result will be candy tangerine flames with a very dark rich candy tangerine base. That sparkle will still be there to! I've sprayed Big Blue Pearl quite a few times. Basically a black base with a 'big blue pearl' flake over the base.
@@andycarswell72 If you plan on adding the flames, yes, you need to sand real good with 1000 grit wet. The parts need to be completely dull and clean. If not, your flames may peel up when you pull your tape
What metallic did you spray over the Flames just before the candy coat, and how did you apply it, did you mix it with clear? Thank you very much, love your style of flames
Appreciate it...I basically just used a coarse metallic. About one dip of a paint paddle, then mix with baseclear. Then over-reduced. You can use any metallic or flake you'd like. HOK MF02 would be nice to use instead
@@leonardtribble2475 Hey Leonard. Looks like you had another question but I don't see it. So I'll answer it here. I normally put a light coat pretty much immediately if I use the UK. Let this sit too long and spray a clearcoat over it, and it may actually wrinkle on you. If using KK, treat it like a white pearl. Let is sit for about 15-30 before clearcoating
@@TAZattitude yes sir I had that question about how long you wait for the kandy to flash before you clear coat it, but then 10 seconds later I watched more of the video and you explained that you waited 10 minutes? I'm writing down a bunch of notes from your videos and I probably watched this video seriously 20 times, lol, but I somehow missed that time frame of waiting for the candy to flash. So are you saying if you waited too long after spraying the kandy, before the clear coat you, would spray another light coat of kandy on top and then continue on to the clear coat? (I'm going to use this same UK08)...sir I cannot thank you enough for all of your help and time with all of these videos and explanations, I've sprayed a few things base coat clear coat in the past but never played with kandies and tape work so I'm getting ready to start on some Yeti tumblers. Have a great holiday weekend happy thanksgiving.
Oops, I think you said you spray a light coat of clear immediately after the kandy? So the kandy don't wrinkle? Sorry sir. Thanks again I really appreciate it.
If you are talking about the hose 'touching' the spray booth floor. That is 18 year accumulation of overspray, not dirt. I don't think it would be wise to be carrying around 35' of hose while you spray. Could be a disaster. I still get VERY clean paint jobs out of this old booth.
@@williamwade3883 if you are talking about the Silver used for the flames, I used Global D769 toner silver which is a very fine silver. Note, this does not have any binder in it. If you are talking about the silver OVER the base and flames. You can use the silver mentioned in my previous post.
I'd say about 5-10%% HOK kandy concentrate to 90-95%% base clear. If you are not comfortable mixing it, you can just purchase the House of Kolor urethane candies. The UKs come pre-mixed
Actually, it's not a black. It's black with metallic over it. Once the orange is sprayed on it, you can see it. Also, this is made so the color looks 'black' out of the sun and a deep candy root beer in the sun
You got that right, it bit me again this last Friday. It curled up and hit the bottom front of the bumper....plus wrapped around my leg again Damn "Tripzilla" got me good. lol
This really depends on how "you" paint. How close, air pressure, gun settings.... BUT for me normally I spray a good medium coat, then another coat, then either one more coat, or a double coat. You want that nice 'rich' look. You want to go at least one coat more than this since candies "bleach" you don't want a candy red paint job start turning pinkish on you in a year.
