How to Paint Vampiric Skin - HC 333 

The long road to 100K begins!

Thank you on both counts. :)

Awesome, thank you! :)

Thanks!

Thank you! Always happy to help. :)

My pleasure!

It's dangerous in there. ;)

Thanks!

Thank you, that's exactly the goal. :)

Thank you, that means a great deal to me. :)

Great to hear! :)

Glad I could help!

Thank you, that's wonderful to hear.

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

@@VinceVenturella Random question Vince, do you still use Camera+ (which I believe is now called Camera+ Legacy) or Camera+ 2, etc.? I’m picking up Legacy rn but figured I’d check if you’re like “Oh they hollowed it out with in-app purchases, go with X instead”. Thank you for your time!

@@shaddonon I use my DSLR now, so I don't use the app anymore, but I've heard others still use and enjoy it.

Always happy to help. :)

Always happy to help. :)

Thank you!

There are always more vampires!

It's that last magic touch.

Thank you, that is exactly what I am going for. :)

Awesome!

Awesome!

Thank you so much 😀

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you so much!

Oh, I can do most of those songs by heart. :)

We all love the vampires!

100%

Thanks!

Absolutely.

I'll see what I can do. :)

ALways happy to help. :)

Awesome

Yep, glad it all worked out. :)

It's something you sort of pick up over time, but Kujo does have a wonderful video on it for general shapes.

Glad to hear it! and hey, something to build toward, we're all on the journey. :)

The offerings have worked then!

Thank you, the armor was some basic NMM steel starting from a sort of Deep Sea Blue video, I've had some earlier videos in the playlist where I talk through NMM steel.

@@VinceVenturella Thanks a lot Vince! I'll surely check it!

At some point, I have to wait for them to release, they didn't send me any, but I will do a review.

Sunset is really tricky, it's the golden hour, so you want to really ratchet up the yellow/orange into the overall tones of the work.

​@@VinceVenturella So since its lights the oranges and yellows would need to go into the layers and highlighted areas of the model. I'll have to experiment on what would be the best way to achieve that. You glazed the light in here to the point where its almost a Filter, so I'll have to experiment with that. Thank you Vince! Edit: Equally tinting the not-lit side blue would be the right thing to do, correct? Blue not only is almost the exact opposite of yellow/orange, but its also the colour the eastern sky has when sunset comes around in the west.

I would use the straight blue and then glaze over the top.

I couldn't tell you exactly, but for the most part, anything that looks close to these colors is fine (grey/whites, the blues, purples, etc.)

Glad I could help!

@@VinceVenturella thanks again!! They showed my model on warhammer hobbyroundup show on twitch!!!

It just keeps happening.

Well, this is very much that, but I will do a video on it specifically at some point for sure. :)

So I have my videos on glazing - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N88NtHNmz1Q.html Here is a video on paint dilution - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TbCtUYFwFWQ.html Here is a skin tone video with those techniques in play - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N8rmdUPxhUI.html Here is an old one, on pink skin - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iUFnyLL7cSY.html Hope those all help.

So the skin on him was probably about 6 hours or so, not too bad for a centerpiece figure like this.

So you have to be careful as some inks will reactivate. It can be a part of a the inks or the humidity. One way to make sure that doesn't happen is a quick coat of varnish after the ink.

Yes, absolutely

You can, it will make it feel more alive.

Just integrate a little more traditional skin tone of whatever ethnicity you're painting. If you're talking caucasian, then you are wanting a little more pink/orange in the mix to bring in a little more life.

You could move to that, but you might want it a little more desaturated.

Yes, absolutely - you've got it exactly.

Yep, very exciting!

Awesome. :)

There is certainly practice here, these types of paint jobs are always a difficult balance, but it's tougher when you have less skin like that model as well, so don't feel bad at all.

It was just some grit, cork and various dry brushes and washes. It was very much like this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fGqZyekEcIo.html

@@VinceVenturella thanks ;) !

It's gotten a lot of use from me.

Just a near white and then a saturated red ink over the top. Simple and effective. :)

@@VinceVenturella thank you 🙏

Drakenhof nightshade.

So the paint list is in the front. I generally now try to list them as I am using them, but most should be fairly obvious. :)

I apprecaite that, as long as people watching are drawing value, I'm happy. :)

It takes a pigment rich paint to glaze light colors and it will show if it's over darker colors. So my advice is two fold. First, just don't glaze light tones whenever you can avoid it, instead, layer them and glaze down with your mid-low tones. My next advice is use a medium to thin them instead of water. That can help keep the pigment evenly distributed as opposed to breaking up with too much solvent (water).

@@VinceVenturellaawesome thanks. I will try both!

You just shift some of the shadows and mid-tones to brown and pruple, but same otherwise.

It's cold when it's blue infused, and warm when it's red infused (i.e. which one of those two colors does it lean toward).

Radikar the Beast from Games Workshop

You'd need the expanded palette with the cold tones likely to really make it work, or just use the black/yellow into the white to get something more jaundiced and sickly.

@@VinceVenturella am planing a undead mordheim warband in zorn pallat, and adding blue-green for the magic. but might have to ad a come cold tones for the skin

Sure, the answer is basically, you're incorporating the grey/white into the mid and high tones, so if you consider an african skin tone, you can do the same thing as here, you can have the normal brown skin tone in the low-mids and purple shadows, but then you are highlighting more with a grey brown for more of the deathly aspect.

@@VinceVenturella awesome, thank you so much. I'm relatively Green around the gills and have been focusing more on brush work and technique over colour theory so thank you so much for this reply.

I have two crystal brushes, and I certainly value those a great deal (as it doesn't exist now). It's likely the Gen-Con Best in Show. I made an oath to myself one year to win Best in Show within 5 years and I got it the 3rd year from that, which really was an amazing and wonderful day.

@@VinceVenturella That's amazing, maybe one day with your tutorials as help ill get my first trophy. I need to enter a competition though first lol. I was planning on going to one next month but life has got in the way, as it does.

Sure, the answer is basically, you're incorporating the grey/white into the mid and high tones, so if you consider an african skin tone, you can do the same thing as here, you can have the normal brown skin tone in the low-mids and purple shadows, but then you are highlighting more with a grey brown for more of the deathly aspect.

I've seen mixing your own flesh tones work like this; Caucasian is orange + white, African is orange + black (both with a little blue). As Vince was saying, you're basically trying to rip the orange out of it, so instead of a white pale skin you'd end up with a very dark slightly bluish skin. However, while that might be "realistic", it's not necessarily going to read the way you like, so I do think I'd exercise some artistic discretion and maybe keep a bit of the brown like Vince suggested.

Hmm, I wonder if the problem here is that cadmium red and yellow are actually hues mixed from other PR / PY pigments? Maybe it's my cadmium hue paints that are misbehaving?

say what? :D

My honest answer is I am not sure I don't normally worry about it too much. In this case, I tend to use magentas because they just generally work better in this way, but I've seen people use more traditional reds in the same way, often inks, so it could just be the paint construction more than anything else.

Hey there. Might be able to help here so apologies for the gate crash since Vince isn’t sure First is whether you’re talking about actual cadmium’s vs hues Secondly it doesn’t really matter too much. But whether cad is cad yellow light. Or deep. Or mid does affect the hue a lot. All colours kind of tilt toward another one of the primaries and it’s that what influences whether they make violets vs plums kind of thing. Or. Types of greens. Let’s stick with greens as it’s the same thinking for purples. Lemon yellow is usually (because lemon yellow varies amongst manufacturers and mediums ) yellow that tilts towards blue, I.e. green on the colour wheel. You also get yellows that tilt towards red, and so are more orange or egg yolk. This is often referred to as cold toned. Warm toned. Safety vest vs egg yolk is my thinking. But there’s more ! Blues all tilt towards either yellow or red. Usually known as green toned vs red toned. Why it’s not yellow vs red or green vs purple I don’t know. But commonly that’s how it’s known. Ultramarine blue (as in the real pigment pb29 I think) is a red toned blue. Pthalo Blue green shade Is a very green based blue. When you mix paint to make green, you’re not just mixing blue and yellow, you’re also mixing their tints. So if you mix a red toned blue and a red toned yellow, you just mixed red, blue, yellow to get your green. And now it’s muddy and not bright. Because you added a lot of red/orange to your green If you mix a green toned yellow and a green toned blue, now you’re adding no red and you get a real crisp bright green. Purple works the same way. Red (purple) toned blue added to a blue (purple) toned red - bright vibrant violet / purple Don’t add green to your purple mixes via the tint and all is sorted.

@@malkcontent thanks for a very detailed and well considered reply! Yes, I used to think about colours in terms of primaries and secondaries: it's very difficult not to when you've been taught that way your whole life since school. But, try this: add a little bit of (pure pigment) quinac magenta to pthalo green. If you add the right amount, you'll get a dark blue much like Prussian blue. It's not a muddy blue, it's a strong dark blue. Add more magenta, and you move towards diox purple. Again, a dark purple, but certainly not muddy. Red plus green should equal brown, but that's not what we get with a cold red plus a cold green. So, circling back to your first question: since mini paints never give us their pigment recipes, I can only assume my mini paint reds are a blend, as is my cad red hue oil paint. So, I think you're right, it's a problem of blends vs single pigment paints tending towards mud when mixed.

I get a selection of colors out I think I will use and order them from shadow to highlight. I don't always use all of them, and sometimes I add one in later. It's more I have a rough idea of the road I'm driving, but I might make stops along the way.

@@VinceVenturella I'll be sure to try that, I'm normally a mess and just pick colors almost randomly as I'm painting. Might explain why my paint jobs look kinda bad at the end 😊.

It's in the video at 0:21 seconds in.

How the hell did I miss that! Sorry

Yeah, the little guys are too much.

I mean, you're basically looking at it. :) - BUt I may do something specifically on it (the key being the desaturation, warm shadows, cold highlights, influence of blue and grey).

Been working more on sound, you should see some changes soon.

I mean...Look at my little cartoon guy, just saying, ;)

@@VinceVenturella the truth was in front of us all along!

He is Radakar the Beast (colloquially called Chadakar) from Games Workshop.

@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince, much appreciated 🙏. Time to go shopping 😄.

Camera always makes it look better to others than it does in person. :)

I mean...they are awesome models.