Im a 20 year carpenter and I've always loved it. I love these guys because they get right to the point with very simple yet effectively correct principles. I've been a very long time fan and I thank you guys for giving my customers a truly talented show of professioal and direct carpenters videos to see. Thank you very much again your longtime fan, Norm!
@keith cunningham those are good points, however it does look shoddy and cheap to us Europeans; our walls are solid brick or breeze block with plaster directly on, you couldn't punch through it and would instead break your hand if you tried. We have seen videos however of people jumping through drywall and it doesn't inspire confidence in the strength of your homes.
what I like so much about tom that he has such a great way to explain things , that everything looks easy, he is a wonderful teacher, also the other experts of the group.
Its the simple things he does like cut the piece of drywall first and trace it onto the wall.. instead of cutting a square hole, measuring it and then cutting the drywall patch, like i have always done. Not anymore.
As a Dutch person with a solid brick wall house this is completely fascinating to me. You can just bump into a wall like that and dent it... absolutely crazy.
Ask this old house, I really like your videos and I hope one day I will be like you, because your videos are very helpfuuuuuuuul . Good luck with everything. God bless you.
I love this channel. I made some holes in my walls to route some Ethernet cable and tried to keep them as close to studs as I could for repair purposes...now, I can just screw in a piece of wood and keep kicking. Great video!
Personally, I use drywall mud to patch instead of spackle. Spackling requires sanding with the attendant dust, extra work, tools, etc. Drywall mud is water-based, so a damp sponge can be used to lightly, and in several directions over the patch, literally wipe away excess until only the area repaired is left for paint and/or primer.
Fewer coats done neatly and or correctly is less time and work. Also a setting type joint compound will definitely speed things up and is great for this type of small repair, it also bonds better to plaster than an all purpose mud.
"Just let it dry until tomorrow, sand it, add two more layers, sand it, paint it... after it's finished sent me a photo of the work you did and I'll send you my bill"
Tom is very patient. I watch these videos wishing my dad was as patient with me when I would hold the flashlight for him. After a few times of yelling at me, he would tell me to get my baby sister so she can hold the flashlight for him. Tom is a National Treasure.
Another method for small holes is to cut the hole in the wall about 2” smaller than the patch you cut. Then cut the paper on one side of the patch at that 2” line. Scrape off the gypsum and use the paper to secure it to the wall.
"Ya Tom, we poured our own foundation, hand laid all of our flooring, rebuilt all the plumbing and electrical ourselves, and my wife and I put on our new roof. The reason we called you to come all the way across the country to our house is we can't figure out how to fix this loose baseboard..."
If you mix your mud spackle etc with paint to a peanut butter consistency and put your tape or patch it lays down the first and maybe only coat. Use the technic to patch small nail holes, etc less work and less mess and less time on site.
Always enjoy these videos. 👍 The patches are good but they are just that,,, patches. I can never get rid of the bubble/hump it creates. Give your compound a good mixing before you use it, never use it straight out of the bucket. IMO
When he first starts to explain how its done with an example of how her house walls are. I just can't help imagine that the opposite side of the room now has a huge square hole in the wall were he cut that section out.
I like how people gave thumbs up without giving any advice. I would say never use the mesh patch unless you just don't have time or confidence to do it right. It lies on top of the wall adding thickness that will be noticeable in the middle of large wall and depending on climate, humidity, if it ever gets damp ect.. it may begin to crack and separate over time.
Wouldn't it depend entirele on the size and location area of the hole? For example, he used the patch underneath the window sill due to its size and location. However, if she had huge holes in the drywall she'd have more room to cut a larger space and place those furring strips behind it to support the new drywall patch.
I feel like Spidey is right. The metal patch works perfectly in a weird spot, like up against that window. Or if you had a hole right by a light switch or socket, and didn't want to risk screwing up your electric by sawing through the gypsum board. Personal story, had a party and someone got a little too...plastered (hah) and fell into the wall and made a big dent with a hole in the middle. It was too big for a metal patch, and since it was like the middle of the wall it was easily accessible for me to cut out the damage and do the "proper" patch job.
I used to do construction and contracting. You basically use a metal patch depending on where the location of the hole is and what size the hole is, and if the hole is in an area where you might ever anticipate needing to nail, mount or hang something. A wire mesh patch will not allow you to hang anything in that section of the repaired wall. Consider the wire mesh to be a Band-Aid cosmetic fix for tiny holes in non-important spaces. My general rule of thumb is if the hole is bigger than 3 inches in size then the wire mesh patch won't cut it and you must do as Tommy showed where you cut out a section of the drywall and replace it with a backer board and use a drywall section as a patch.
At my junior high we had pool tables in the cafeteria, and there were all kinds of holes like this in the wall from kids ramming the que into it, and throwing balls at. They finally had the maintenance guys come in and fill the holes, but they didn't let the stuff dry before the kids came back for lunch. So now there was plaster everywhere, and the holes were bigger from kids messing with them.
We had plumber update and replace worn faucets in 1948 house. The bathroom walls seem to be a version of concrete and not lathe and plaster seen in the rest of the house. House is this repaired? I have temporary fix involving flex seal water proof tape. ☹️
Speaking from experience having worked with Drydex, it should never be used for patching, it doesn't dry hard enough or strong enough. Should have used dura-bond or a hot-mud. Also a drywall patch wouldn't be necessary then. I'm a finsher/painter by trade.
The guys that did the windows are more than likely not plasters. And may have told her that removing the window could damage the paster. Calling them hacks without actually knowing what happen is being a little quick.
Kill Me There you go assuming . It's in the pricing of the job , hire a contractor and get everything done or hire a window installer and get windows installed . Window installers don't always carry all the necessary tools and supplies to fix plaster. I presume you think they could paint it also
MORON ! you're watching a dickhead ! The window contractors are not RESPONSIBLE for how much of the wall they NEED to remove ! Steel cross supports. Previously damaged walls with lousy repairs. ETC... ETC... WAKE UP ABOUT WHO YOU'RE WATCHING !
Window installers install windows, which was what the contractor did. And by the looks of it, they did a pretty good job. They are not responsible for filling in all the nail holes, caulking, or "touching up" any drywall repairs. End of story.
SeeJaneDrill had a great technique for filling holes involving making a SMALLER hole in the wall than your patch piece of drywall, removing some of the hard drywall of the patch piece, and using the paper to overlap the seams and act as your backing for the spackle. Can't get much more simple or seamless than that! Similar to what Tommy did at the end, but his method wouldn't work if there wasn't a stud right behind the patch!
I never use that metal patch plate. Just take some stucco lathe and cut a pc in the hole and mix up either plaster or quick drying floor patch as a base coat. Then skim it a couple times with easy sand 5.
Will I be able to use a drywall screw or anchor after repairing a hole using this method? I have a bad hole where my toilet paper holder is which I’m trying to repair.
You don't just put more on. You use a wider taping knife each time and make it wide enough so that the spackle makes a gradual "ramp" up to the tape (in this case; metal patch).
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5q6dPqGZn1Y.html This is a This Old House clip called "How to Choose a Stud Finder" Would be awesome if instead they just cut to Tommy punching the wall, end scene, roll credits
I have some joint compound that is been sitting for a while and there is liquid in it and it is a brand new bucket can I still use it I need to patch about 20 small screw holes
Don't apply filler thick it takes longer to dry. Apply a thin coat and then wait until tomorrow when it's dry add another thin coat of filler, wait until tomorrow for the second coat to dry when enough coats wait for it to dry then sand and paint!
