Don't make a mess!!! Get PERFECT results EVERY TIME!!! Thanks to Bespoke Post for sponsoring this video! Head to bspk.me/vancouvercarpenter and use code CARPENTER20 to learn more and get 20% off your first box.
Try the old paint and body man trick of using 1/4" masking tape to do the outline because is follows curves real well. Then go over it with a second row of wider tape.
I gotta call out the way overkill boxes and packaging. Pretty ludicrous. But, Ben, I’m glad you are getting sponsors and getting PAID! Thx for the continued content!!
If u are good at it and cut a very small hole in the silicone, I don’t have to tape it. But if u like good work and are not confident in your skill, taping it off is a great method!
"Just one pass, that's all you get, you get one pass all the way around"..."that's it, you're done" wellll... "actually one more pass...how bout here... maybe one more" "I'm not gonna touch it"..."well yes I am" lol ~ thanks for the laugh 😆
My way: no tape, squeeze a nice even bead around the entire basin. Fill an atomizer with soapy water. Spray in the bead. The soapy water stops it from sticking to outside thw nead. Wipe all round removing all excess material. Done. Will leave an awesome joint. You have to be pretty good with a chalk gun to doo this method. For apprentices, use tape 😉
That thing under the mirror is called a cove....that's the only thing I learned from this lol but you the man vancouver carpenter, love what you do bro keep it up
Ben mate. I used the masking tape for years until I tried proper silicone profiling tools. Never again would I use tape. Trust me. The tools gives a vastly better finish at a fraction of the time. It also prevents contamination of the silicone from your fingers (esp in wet areas where you DON'T want micro pits in the finish to allow mould spores to grow). When you finish the edge off after taking off the tape you will leave an ultra-thin coating at the edge which is prone to lifting - esp if it's in a spot where you would clean often. That won't happen using a tool. just try it!
I agree. I used my finger and tape for a long time until I was introduced to the silicone Caulking Tool. Run the bead, spray with water and tool. Beautiful results without contamination. www.amazon.ca/dp/B07YM636X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_G4WG2J90JJRVSFYXQK90
@@B.G.L I've not needed water. I think it's best to not add anything to the silicone surface if possible. The brand I use has a nifty attachment that helps you bridge over tile joins without creating a dip in the caulk.
@@tedra8143 This is what I use. There are probably other versions available. www.amazon.com.au/Cramer-Grouting-Silicone-Profiling-Removal/dp/B07NCZ2DQJ/ The 2 black do-dads you see in the top of the case are used to bridge tile joints.
I ran into an interesting problem recently: sink set into butcher block. No tape I had would stick at all. I had to use the window cleaner method for the first time and it worked great. Also: I like to use the squeeze tubes of silicone because they can be navigated more easily behind sinks and toilets.
Totally. There are all kinds of tapes too that will follow are curve. Film or theatrical supply stores have great tape selections. Automotive detailing tape too will hold a curve.
I normally use 'transulcent white' or clear, silicone caulking (not full white), but my fool proof method of good silicone caulking jobs is to fill a spray bottle with rubbing alcohol, and have a bucket of water handy: 1. Run your bead of caulking. 2. Get your bucket of water and spray bottle of rubbing alcohol ready. 3. Spray your finger with the rubbing alcohol. Also spray the caulked joint with the rubbing alcohol.* (Spritz the joint, don't get it soaking wet, just lightly wet). 4. Run your finger over the joint (the rubbing alcohol soaked finger). And wipe the excess off on the lip of the bucket of water. 5. Repeat until your done. I'm a maintenance man for a hotel. I get picture perfect caulking beads. DO NOT spray rubbing alcohol before applying the silicone caulking. That will cause it not to stick. You must first apply the bead, then spray.
I work as a painter and I rarely have to do caulking around sinks. I used to do this method you are showing but I found the holy Grail with small silicone caulking pads (you can found on Amazon, usually sold in sets of four different pads). It gives a neat finish in no time and it saved my painter’s life a few times. Knowing this method I wouldn’t use tape now. But you did a nice job. (I try not to use by bare fingers using caulking, I read it’s not good for your liver if absorb by skin).
I went through that knife throwing phase about 25 years ago. Definitely left some holes in the wall, but I'm not sure that my parents ever noticed, and they still live there. Now with all this new drywalling and mudding knowledge, perhaps I can help fix what the damage that I caused...
Another great tutorial ! Can I also use your method on a stainless steel kitchen sink ? Can you also suggest a durable caulk for a stainless steel kitchen .
Highly concur. And sidebar, if you’re caulking against masonry/brick, where it’s super uneven and has large mortar joints etc- use heavy hvac foil tape. Sticks to just about anything, and the foil contours really well to the uneven-ness.
You should try the can of Masters tooling foam that you have sitting there, it works way better and in a fraction of the time you spent taping. I use it all the time.
I never, never, never mixed family and free labor. Did I mentioned I'm divorced? Back to the subject. I tried the wet your finger with soapy water trick and that was the best caulk job I ever did in my life!
Been using this method for years. Prepping time is longer than any "pro" methods I keep seeing people mention but I'm a DIYer. Takes practice to perfect pro methods. I've done maybe 3 sink basins and 6 tub/shower surrounds in 10 years. I'll stick to this method. Gives predictable, clean and good looking results every time! I use plain water on my finger for the final pass. Avoid feathering from your dry finger pulling on the silicone surface.
Is silicone still the best caulking for sinks and tubs? There are so many kinda of caulks these days, and some acrylic ones are "siliconized" so I think they have the waterproof properties of silicone witg the paintability and east cleanup of super cheap painter's caulk.
The smaller the width of the tape, the smaller the curve you can make. For example, a tape with a quarter inch width would easily follow the curve of most of this sink. Then add a wider tape on the quarter inch tape to catch excess. Also dunk your finger in soapy water to get a supper smooth finish. Always remove tape before caulk dries. Great show thanks!
I believe that cutting a small enough hole and practice your speed in relation to squeezing will eliminate the need for any tape....I normally just use a wet finger and no tape with an appropriate sized hole in the calk does the trick just as nice...this is a nice tip for someone who hasn't calked before.
Tooling foam is a waste of money. Just use a spray bottle of water with a few drops of dish soap in it - just a tiny squirt is plenty. Make sure your silicone is touching where you want it to stick before spraying water on it, because it won't stick to anything wet with that slightly soapy water. Then soak that thing down and wipe. Keep it soaked at all times - if you wipe it almost dry the silicone can start sticking again - spray some more. You can work super fast and it makes a beautiful finish. Wipe the first big stuff on pieces of cardboard - it comes off fast. You can carefully use a rag wrapped tight around your fingertip later if necessary - can be helpful if your finger doesn't want to pick up the thin remnants on the counter near the sink. Final tight wipe with finger for beauty. I never tape anything since I found out how shower door guys do those long beads.
Started a project this morning clue less of how to work mud. And 2 hours later I was laying that stuff like butter. All thanks to you man, took 1 video of your to master this.
I like old school in jobs like this. I never heard of "tool foam" sounds like something I would find in a machine shop. I bet it's more trouble than it's worth. Thanks Ben
if you must tape a curve use electrical tape thats warm, like left in your pocket for 15-20 min, and tape your curve then use painters tape to the electrical
Its all about the bead. I never tape unless its up against wood or something like that. If the wood has a nice finish though I wont tape. The key is knowing the right methods which I find a lot of people don’t know about
Denatured alcohol in a spray bottle. Put a nice small bead around the sink, spritz it with the alcohol and tool it with your finger like you would latex caulk. The alcohol will keep the siilicone from sticking and smearing as well as remove it from surfaces.
Yes. This was painful to watch. I've silicones thousands of sinks and use the simplest method you described. Use the same method for toilets and window frames.
When finger tooling silicone or caulking use some warm soapy water and dip your finger in it. It will stop the caulk from sticking to your finger and dragging.
I never seem to get a comment back even when I've asked for help besides the point though why you so much caulk to where it does build up so thick when you pull the tape off
Just a question, since I'm a moron. What do you think of putting down more and cutting it out with an exacto/utility knife? Too risky to score the counter top?
I've seen people get a really nice bead with a fondant tool that looks like a stick with a ball on the end. They just wait for it to dry, and peel away the excess.
Really like your channel! But, using tape for caulking a sink I feel is a lot of tedious work. It does come out nice, I will admit though. Thanks for sharing 👍😎
I really love watching your drywall videos, but let me give you an advise, i do plumbing for a living, mainly installing sinks tub/shower trims well basically finishing and i do this every day, please save yourself some time, just use your finger with no tape and wipe it down with a grouting sponge, you get the same o better result in less than a minute, trust me i have been doing this for years and nothing works better than those sponges, just make sure is wet before you wipe it down and its clean every time you use it
Love your content. Hope you try this next time. You will NEVER use tape or a gimmick tool ever again. I promise. I also won’t pretend that I haven’t learned a plethora of information that has greatly improved my drywall skills. Even though I am a painter by trade it is nice to have other strengths and I won’t pretend to know it all. I’ll keep my cup empty so I can fill it. Hope u get a chance to try this next time. It will save you time and the finish is much better
Tape creates a small ridge that can cause the joint to fail. Same for using soapy water. The best method is to ensure you have the tube cut at the exact right size, ensuring good contact with the joint surfaces and no excess sealant at all. Then you can use a profile tool as required with minimal mess.
Why would the ridge cause the joint to fail? It would potentially collect more water and increase chance of mildew but it wouldn't cause the joint to be weaker.
@@Chanmantroop10 the small ridge is a very thin and weak section of the silicone, as the whole joint is subject to natural forces it will flex and most likely crack at this zone due to the small cross section. Usually it fails after an end user cleans the installation a few times, as it will abrade away the small ridge very easily compared to a properly formed joint.
@@Swwils the ridge isn't any thinner than tooling it with your finger like he does at the end. Id argue tooling it with the finger causes an even thinner "edge" which blends into the surface. The blended edge peels during cleaning too. The only way to create a durable joint is using one of those Fugi silicone kits. Also using a good quality 100% silicone makes a difference as well For me, I squeegee my shower after every use and wipe down the the area where the tile meets the tub where water likely collects. This prevents any mildew from growing in those areas and not only prevents mold but prolongs me having to clean or scrub any of the caulk. I've only ever had to use mild detergent and a soft cellulose sponge
@@Swwils I'm not arguing this. What I'm saying is tooling with a finger doesn't create a ridge but the edge itself is weak. Weaker than the edge that's caused by tape since the finger tooled edge is very thin. Imo the tape ridge is stronger than the blended edge created with a finger
got rid of caulking gun, use a squeeze tube of caulking, lot better control on amount applied. (as you use the tube fold over the back end after capping the nozzle and you can apply tape around the fold to help secure it) to get behind the sink; tape a 1/4 " plastic tube to the nozzle. applies alot less and with a little practice wont have to finger wipe afterword..... another thing you can do with squeeze tube is cut the back end off clear latex caulking. squeeze as much as you can get out thru the back end on to something similar to a painters pallet and rinse out the tube of the rest of the caulking. mix in a little of the color of paint your using for your project (doesn't take much) into the caulking you squeezed out. put back into the squeeze tube (again a little practice; not as messy as it may seem). fold over the cut back end couple of times and tape around the fold to seal the end) You now have a perfect match to your wall paint to touch up the gaps that invariably occur on top of base boards and edges of casings and other trim. Can be done with silicone for perfect counter match at sinks but you need 2 tubes. a latex one because you can't rinse out the silicone left in the tube. (had a couple of spares from doing this for a number of years and wound rinse out the tubes when project completed)
Huh, I didn't think this was a thing taping the sink. I thought it was just freely done n a quick wipe with ur finger lol. Good 2 know, I have a bathroom sink to do.
I don't know of any boss that would pay his guys to do that taping. The most important point I have found in caulking. The point. Slight bevel "slight!" Very small clip on the tip. Smallest hole. Good caulk gun. Don't finger your caulk! If possible ...
Yes, much quicker not to use tape. For the novice, tape prevents getting silicone all over a nice finished surface. I have been running caulk guns for 30 years, I still use tape on high end finishes when using silicone. The only way to clean it up is mineral spirits which may damage some surfaces. The taping method used here was quite slow. It shouldn’t take more than a minute or two to lay tape around a sink. Gotta get that watched minute count up on the videos for a better RU-vid payday😉
Ben ~ never use 3" tape to get the line as it's too wide to turn or adjust. It's faster, better and easier to use 1" to get the line, then put the 2" or 3" to cover where needed.
Was just about to write the same ... 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I use the electrical tape around curves (much, much easier to shape around the curve and no wrinkles) and then put 2" masking to widen the coverage...
Ben take your son skateboarding. If he must throw knifes axes and that kind of thing you have to find a range for that. After covid you might be able to find a local axe club. You can get your son lessons and safety instruction. I would bet they have darts and knife throwing there as well. good luck and remember to duck! J/K but be safe.
Its fine but mineral spirits or just soap is fine too. Just a wet finger or tool for standard caulk (not silicone). Though tools that some folks mentioned are better as you can get a more consistent result and don't risk digging it out too much.
