You need to taper the end of the pin to match the contour of the bottom of the hole, left by the drill bit contour. And you need to Chamfer the hole opening on the muzzle break to form a "Well" for the welding material to seat into.
I like not using the crush washer, and it’s not necessary in this case. But man, my OCD would never be okay with that flash hider not being timed on the barrel.
There are ZERO silencer QD mount muzzle device manufacturers that would instruct you to use a crush washer. If you want to time it, use shims. QD muzzle device = no crush washer.
Pro Tip: If you thread the muzzle device on something disposable then instead of using the steel pick to fix the bur you can just untread the device off the throwaway threaded piece.
JB Weld does not meet the ATF's authoritarian scrutiny. If you are attaching a muzzle device to get over the 16" barrel length requirement then it has to be pinned and welded. JB weld is just an epoxy that tops out around 600F. If you are not pinning and welding you should be using rocksett.
Great video and wonderfully stepped and shown, as well as explained to best understand everything. Question, would you use or need red or blue loctite or is that just overkill with the pin and weld?
You can but some muzzle devices don't have a lot of room for the pinning and tig is slightly more precise. In the video's case, he is wanting to avoid those teeth which is what an ASR QD mount bites into when seating a silencer.
Not an expert on this but just a suggestion. Center the drill hole on the top of the barrel in the event you want to replace the muzzle device with one that has to be timed. You would't be able to see the hole in the barrel through the muzzle device so you won't know where to drill. If the hole is centered on the top of the barrel, you would know exactly where the hole was and thus know exactly where to drill the hole in your new muzzle new device.
So what do you think would be the smallest welder one could use to do this? I don't have one and will probably almost never use it again, but I want to get one to try this.
Ok, cool. So I could get a little stick welder from Harbor Freight and do the job. Just asking because I've never welded anything before in my life. I figure this appears to be fairly simple thing to do. Good first project. Plus I have a 14.5" I need to p&w so theres that
yea that would do fine, just practice on some other material to dial in your settings, you just need good heat penetration and it will be good to go, i had never welded before i tackled an entire custom turbo kit on my camaro. practice makes perfect...or good enough lol
My local FFL just told me he couldn’t pin and weld my 13.9 to my dead air muzzle device. Cuz a ATF agent told him that pinning and welding a muzzle device doesn’t extend the overall length. Is my FFL wrong?
The ATF doesnt make laws. They Enforce them. If the muzzle device is permanently attached and cant be removed without destroying the threads or barrel it becomes part of the barrel. You can buy barrels with pinned and welded muzzle devices. Therefore the ATF can pound sand. And if youre smart you use a 2 piece gas block and cover the break and gas block with a hand guard. Nobody will EVER know.
That sounds like a poor idea for long term durability. But to answer your question you would want to use an aluminum pin and weld using a tig welder. You could probably get away with using an aluminum brazing rod too, because no one would actually be able to tell the difference.
Youre not really using using that much continuous heat. Yes its hot, but likely not that much more into the barrel steel then its designed to handle under heavy firing.
Some guys think, if the ATF is checking out the "weld" on your muzzle brake pin, they must already have a lot of interest in you, for something else they believe you might have done.
bolawdean was the pin from a speciality hardware store? Or it something Home Depot or lowes carry? Would the shank from the drill bit work if I cut it off?
Maybe consider buying a Pistol Lower. Once a lower is a Pistol Lower it can then live it's life going back and forth with freedom from rifle land back to pistol land.
He's clamped on the handguard with wood blocks between the vice and handguard. Not ideal, but better than clamping directly onto the upper receiver. A slightly deformed handguard won't affect function.
there is delrin (blue plastic) blocks between the vice and the sides of the quad rails on the handguard with very minimal pressure as the handguard is aluminum...the upper receiver isnt touching the vice
