Code is 3 ft. from electric meter and 2ft. Under ground. Also, DONT bury until pressure tested. May be a pin hole in pipe itself?? And if it wasn't buried, you could pull the pipe above ground to put the fittings and corrosion tape together. The gas line should be run totally, thru the wall and shut off valve installed so all that needs to be done, is connect the fixture. Also, the pipe needs to be sleeved thru the wall. Just a thought!!??
I don't have an electrical meter at the shop side so that 3ft isn't an issue. I already asked about that before doing this job. Also, NIPSCO (my electric company) burried their gas and electric lines together in same trench, just separated by elevation a little, same way I did mine. I do have a shut off valve at the house meter and inside the shop so 2 of them. Yeah, hopefully no leaks once I do a leak down test. I'm probably not using this gas line but added while i was putting the electric in just in case I change my mind. I'm not a professional but I did ask the county inspector questions before I did this. I just asked my electric company about the 3ft deal and he said the same thing, yes, if there are meters, then you gotta be 3ft, but if it's done like I did it, then it doesn't matter.
They make 90s that are metal to plastic with the home-flex brand and the plastic fittings to mate them .. there kinda pricey , I know a trace wire needs to be wrapped or zip tie to it for miss dig , it's plastic have to me able to find it with a metal detector.. I seen you have elec an gas most likely in one trench I know in my area the elec had to be in schedule 40 underground conduit the whole run , when sharing the same trench, I think yours might be just when it come up the wall ... I'm sure every works and you did a good job .. just advice for others watching
My county inspector said only conduit under drive ways was needed. The main electric and gas that Nipsco put in is in the same trench until the ends where they split off. Some States and Counties may have different codes. Always call the local inspector for questions. He was pretty helpful for me.
remember to air ventilate the barn to mitigate C-O-2 buildup. also bond the metal line to a GOOD earth ground (static electricity). also gas safety gear like fire/CO2 detectors and a fire extinguisher.
Building has vented soffit and ridgecap. I'm probably not even using the gas at all but wanted it just in case. Going with a mini split. Can I ground to the copper ground rod I have for my electric?
@@219jello yes... but the green grounding wire NOT on a plug will work, too. necessary to remove static charges and protect from shocks. note that the plastic tubing underground is not bonded .
Check your codes, should not have a buried a union, especially a metal union. Corrosion can build up causing a gas leak. Tape is good but it needs to be air tight. A 1" poly coated riser would have been best. Then a pressure test would assure no leaks.
I didn't burry a union. The fitting that is burried is made for exactly what I used it for. All the unions I used are above ground by the gas meter. I did update my video description explaining the pressure test needing to be done with air pressure at a higher psi. The tape I used is specifically for burried pipe.
In this part of the world any gas line entering a building requires a minimum 3 feet away from electric. Also gas check sizing gas MTR Upsizing???? They also have a long metal to plastic sweep that used for burial Check with local municipal plumbing codes And GAS utility company
I didn't want to use that plastic crap. What I used is superior over plastic. 316 stainless will never rust or corrode. I did do some planning ahead of this project. Both the gas and electric come into my house in the same trench and that was done by NIPSCO (our electric company) so not too worried about 3ft separation. Gas meter has been sized for adding gas to the pole barn and a future generator.
I see several problems. There are supposed to be three elbows when you go from underground to a building so that it is not ruptured if there is movement between the building and underground pipe. There is supposed to be a tracer wire attached to the underground pipe the entire distance so that it can be located in the future. The test pressure should be 10 psi not the fractional psi that is in the line.
I mentioned the tracer and psi test in the description. Tracer really isn't needed because the electric runs in same trench. The elbow thing, idk, can't see an extra elbow helping. The risers you buy are just a single 90 like I did. Nipsco didn't add and elbows in their line that goes to the gas meter.
I heard your supposed to run the wire next to the gas line but let me ask do you have to hook it up to some kind of power or does it just sit in there and can be traced by the wire just being there not hooked up to anything I’m new at this kinda gas line
Out of curiosity I see Menards has this poly pipe but it says you have to be qualified to purchase and install it. Do you know if that’s the case if I were to purchase it would they require a license or something?
Hey fellow 219er! MC area hear but from the Haven/Portage area. I almost went with that pipe deal from Menards, but I feel like the stainless fittings I used are a lot more durable. Could be wrong but just don't like the idea of all that plastic. I didn't see anything preventing me from buying that pipe at Menards when I was in the process of doing this job so not sure
Here is a link to a similar tape that I used. I bought my yellow tape from my local plumbing shop. www.findtape.com/Shurtape-PW-100-Corrosion-Protection-Pipe-Wrap-Tape/p601/
