How-To Predator 212: Step-by-Step Governor Removal 

Yeah but you don’t need to take the cam or piston out

That's what I was saying you did a little way overly complicated bro there was a few too many steps in there that were unnecessary and the average person nowadays would try to attempt or duplicate what you did and completely just s*** show it and Destroy and ruin their engine and then they would be trying to blame you for doing it because they watched your video on how you did it and they tried to duplicate it and work competent enough to doing like that now they're mad and butthurt that they were too stupid to not realize that they weren't smart enough to do it that way and they would begin with but in all reality it didn't need to be done that way regardless because like I said you can really just pull out the side where the gear shaft is and put a little ride out and put the plate back on and fill a hole in your done or you in a little washer but yeah he did way too much for the same results you get was about 50 or so less steps ​@@E36_kidd

I went to check out your other videos...to my chagrin, there are none! What gives?

you're comparing a step by step removal of an engine component vs go Karting channels.

LNR Ridez WOW, thank you for that compliment. I really appreciate it. I have a valve lash and valve lapping video in the editor, I just have to finish them up. Haven’t had much time between work and family to sit down and do it. Thank you again for your support.

LNR Ridez I remove the gear on the crankshaft because it will slightly reduce the rotational weight of the crankshaft and mostly because I’m taking the crankshaft out anyways, so I might as well just remove it.

Plus anything you don’t need in there that might fail could blow the motor up

How do you tap a screw? And what size screws did you use?

@@MrPatrickStephenson 1/4-20 or 1/4-24.

stock flywheel should be fine removing the governor but atleast 18lb valve springs should be put in to be safe

@@jaydenv8295 🤣🤣🤣

What ever happened? I don't think the gear was acting as a shim

There's no need for a shim. The crankshaft bottoms into the bearing, not the drive gear.

25

Power output depends on what else is done to the engine. If you get a brand new engine and remove the governor and do nothing else it will spin higher than stock RPM but power output will start dropping off after a certain RPM as it leans out.

It will allow higher RPMs, but if you don't want the motor blowing up, get a billet flywheel and rod.

Pretty important if you don't want stuff flying through your seat, and killing the engine.

I know this is an old question, but maybe someone will find it useful later. It really depends on your application. The governor will limit your RPM to around 3600 (they vary some). The next limiting factor in most of these engines is the valve spring weight. OEM springs usually limit the RPM to around 4800 before the valves start to "float". Up to that point, my opinion is that the OEM flywheel and rod are probably fine. If you take the next step and upgrade the valve springs, the limiting factor is likely just your gearing and wheel size. At that point, once you exceed 5k regularly, you really need to replace that flywheel.

@@Mark-vi6cg In my opinion what he did in the video is what amateurs do. Guys who know what they are doing take it a few steps further no matter what RPM is being turned. Governor removal should only be done during an engine build that will include parts that can handle high RPM operation.

it won't just fall off, I mean you saw him beating on it to get it off of there. It's pressed on the shaft and wedged against the housing. It's not going anywhere. It's simply just to remove unnecessary rotating weight. with a stock cam/rod/piston, it might free up a little power but not likely as noticeable as just removing the governor itself.

The wire plug nut and bolt for the low oil sensor already does the job of plugging the hole. You can loctite the nut and bolt and it is possible for the wire to come loose, so I super glue them on the outside where the wire comes out of the plug.

108 inch-lbs or 9 foot-lbs

How did you figure out how to fix it?

Wondering the same thing

It's a normally open circuit. When oil is too low it closes and provides a ground to the coil to shut down the engine. Once the low oil sensor wires are cut and the small gold low oil sensor device is removed what you have left is the on/off switch. Plug it's connector onto the wire to the coil and you are done.

Jason Daniels 1/4” - 24. I’ve also used a 20 thread pitch depending on the bolts I have in hand, so which ever thread pitch the bolts you have are.

Front Runner Karting LLC would a self-tapping screw do the job?

@@imtrolling5059 yes

the predator 212 doesn't have any charging coils to do this stock. i have seen them converted however....

We want the video!! Lol

I think 1/4-20

What did you do to fix it?

Self tapping bolts from gopowersports

Using an impact gun will take the bolt off without it spinning or it will spin slightly but still remove the bolt

Someone please help any tips?

On mine I used 1/4” 20 NC, worked perfect.

You can do the nut and bolt with a rubber washer and loctite red. The problem is, if the nut ever comes loose it would wreak havoc on your engine. Better to Tap. Your call.

@@Sussy-hotdog appreciate the info

The butterfly inside your carb throat should be springing back to almost closed (whatever it takes to idle) at resting state. If it's not doing that, you need to link something somewhere so it does that. (Add spring maybe?)

There is a compression release assembly on the back of the cam. Perhaps it’s stuck in the release position? I’ve never experienced not having compression after removing a Governor.

You are referring to the LIFTER ARMS. No, you don't need to worry about any specific position. As long as the cam lobes contact them with the correct timing (line up the timing gear dot with the dot on the crank shaft) they are fine. Compression happens on top of the piston so if you didn't open the head where the valves are, I'm having a hard time giving an answer as nothing else changed. I can only assume your dots are not as lined up as you think?

JmonHeymon take your valve cover off and check your rocker arms. I just did this and it did the same thing and the rocker arms came loose from the push rods I put them back together and it started right up

Thats what im saying

@@donovinpriest2374 put a mikuni

How did u figure out how to fix it?

@@justbuilds8248is there any other way to fix it?

Duct tape the throttle cable to your gas tank and run the cable into the arm using self tappers

What did you use to cut the arm?

My thoughts and opinions exactly bro exactly what you just said but didn't know how much I felt about confidence-wise but now seeing your Comet post whatever you want to call it makes me feel 110% better cuz I swear I thought to myself could I just do it this way but there's always that what if in the back of your mind you know what I'm saying but now I'm just going to go ahead and do it the way you said it because that's what I thought to myself first time I looked at the whole situation and watched a few other videos but thanks again for your second opinion second opinion always helps in my opinion LOL

The low oil sensor. You don't need it and it will cause you problems on a go-kart when the oil splashes around while driving and shut the engine off. Cut and remove as he did. Or, if you don't want to fill the whole with a bolt.... just leave it, and cut the wire on the outside to disable it.

All I did was cut of the shank where the ridge is and pounded it back in to plug the hole, no taping to do. 😊

I use 1/4” Allen head bolts. A half-inch long bolt for the side (under the flywheel) and a 2 inch for the top hole. I don’t use washers and I do use loctite.

@@frontrunnerkartingllc7392 ty i did it yesterday i used a 1/4 and a washer i got from taking the governor off and some red loctite now i just gotta set my valve lash i think its 003 005 it can be anything for anybody i guuess i will just have to keep trying also i used red rtv and i think im getting no compression i only let it seal for like 7 hours and then put oil in i was in a rush

Front Runner Karting LLC Did you tap bolt in, or did you just tighten it down an let it thread itself?

Flat.head.screw.driver.😃