Foot-pounds and Newton-meters shown. Find out what torque wrenches and the turn-of-the-nut bolt pre-loading method have in common and what manufacturing deficiency limits this model`s precision to be set using Nm`s.
Hi mate. Ok now this is taken from a Honda forum, its a whole paragraph for a B16a engine. Thank you, greatly appreciated. CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TORQUE SPECS (tightening) / (loosening) 8, 4, 2, 6, 10 <---intake order 3, 7, 9, 5, 1 7, 3, 1, 5, 9 <---exhaust order 4, 8, 10, 6, 2 Torque in steps: 22ft-lbs (264in-lbs), Then to 63ft-lbs (756in-lbs) (final spec) 94+ Teg Torque in steps: 22ft-lbs (264in-lbs), Then to 61ft-lbs (732in-lbs)(final spec) 90-93 Teg / B16's
You are right on, thanks for the note. Yes, if a wrench was made for ft-lb, its gradations will not work for whole number multiples in Nm. It is, in that case, way easier to convert Nm to ft-lb and set that on the wrench. Likewise, for a European-made Nm-calibrated wrench it is easier and proper to convert ft-lb figures to Nm and work with those numbers.
Thank you, your video helps me alot, i had to check the spark plugs on my motorcycle and did not know how to use the torque wrench, but now i know. Thanks again. Good job.
Very helpful video. Thanks. My torque wrenches (U.S.A.-made GearWrench) have double scales on the rotating handle ring, one for lb.-ft. and the other for N-m. These are much easier to use because I needed both (for metric and SAE tasks).
Great video, thank you for posting. I understand that knowing the theory is a must, however in practice I found it easier to convert the Newton Meter requirement to Foot Pounds using something like an online Nm to Ftb converter. Saves a huge amount of time and it's easier to set properly.
Yes, GearWrench does make their SAE/Metric torque wrenches with two scales on one rotating ring. The numbers for lb-ft are all multiples of 10, easy to work with. The amounts for Nm are all ending in decimals due to conversion. Very precise, just needs a bit of headwork; eg add 108.5 Nm on the main scale and 5.4 on the rotating=113.9 Nm (vs.=84ft-lb). GearWrench also makes torque wrenches in Nm only where the amounts are in multiples of 10; eg 110, 120 on the main scale and 1-10 on the rotating.
Thank you for a great video. I am about to change my spark plugs in a 1997 for E-150 with 4.6L engine that has the spark plug blow out problem if you don't torque it to manufacturer specs, and i was worried about reading my torque wrench wrong, but you explained it just great. Very well done video. My spark plugs are supposed to be torqued between 84 and 168 in-lbs. I hope i converted it correctly to foot-lbs, it comes out to 7 ft-lbs to 14 ft-lbs. If i got it wrong then i will be in for a very very expensive repair. THANK YOU theoverengineer.
Will Givenoname Yes, the math is right. You might want to get a torque wrench calibrated to light torque, between say, 50 - 300 inch-pounds. At the low and high ends of any instrument`s range the readings are unreliable. It`s like trying to weigh a potato with a bathroom scale. It`ll read zero, or 1 lb, neither are really right. Thanks for watching!
theoverengineer Thank you for a fast reply. I actually had two torque wrenches that read in in-lbs, so i used those set to 160 in-lbs and i compared them to each other on a bolt before i used them. I drove the car around for 30min and checked each spark plug again, and it looks all good. The only problem i had was oil coming in from the top drenching the spark plug, the weird thing is my spark plug tubes are in the heads, so it's not not the valve gasket because it's all dry around the valve gasket anyway. I can't figure out where the oil came in from, the head was all clean around the the spark plug tube, but it's coming in from the top for sure. I don't know if there is any seals inside the spark plug tubes if their inside the head, but i doubt it. The van only burns less then half a quart of oil within 3000miles. Maybe you know anything about the ford 4.6L 2valve engine, that i don't. Thank you.
Will Givenoname I have seen plugs dripping with oil, but the was the lower threads and electrode gap part, from oil leaked from the crank case by the piston rings into the combustion chamber. There is also the cam cover gasket, thick and reusable type, running around the perimeter of the head. At or near the same height or level on the block, there must be gasket rings around spark plug tubes too, same way thick and reusable type. Those are the only 2 spots, gasket above or blow-by oil from below.
theoverengineer I am 100% sure it's not from blow-by from below, because the spark plug was clean below, but the whole ceramic and upper thread was drenched in oil. If the spark plugs would of been in the valve cover then i would be sure that it was the O ring seal leaking, but in these engine the spark plug goes straight into the head not thru the valve cover, that's what got me so confused, because i don't think there is any seals inside the spark plug tubes, but i might be wrong. It's really hard to see inside the spark plug tubes because it's a van and all the spark plugs are located under the dashboard part and there is like 5 inches clearance between the engine and dashboard so there is no way to stick my head in there to see. But it runs great for now, so i will worry about it when i start to get a misfire. Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my questions. You have a wonderful day Sir.
Just quickly: the numbers 8, 4, 2, 6 ... etc is the order in which bolts are to be tightened. It needs a picture where the numbers assigned to the bolts are shown. Notice, the range of these numbers 1-10, for 10 bolts in total. It probably is a criss-cross pattern. Tightening is done in 3 steps: half-good, three-quarter tight, fully tightened. Torque figures: ft-lb x 12 = in-lb, eg. 22 x 12 = 264, as 12 inches make a lb.
The XLC TO-S40 is manufactured to metric standards. The numbers on the main scale are in N-m, in increments of 2 N-m, starting at 6, 8, 10, ...28, 30. The numbers on the handle are also in N-m, starting at 0, 0.4, 0.8, ... 1.6. There are un-numbered marks between these numbers, meaning 0.2, 0.6, ...1.8. The 0 and the 2.0 marks coincide. One half rotation on the handle is + or - 1N-m, a full turn on the handle = 2N-m. A full turn on the handle precisely corresponds with advancing by 2N-m on the main scale as well. Say the handle is at 6N-m or below that, at rest. Setting it to 13.6Nm would require turning the handle clockwise until its edge is at the 12N-m line, and the handle is at 0. Then rotate the handle clockwise again by an additional amount, until you get to 1.6. The edge of the handle is now at about 3/4 ways between the 12 and 14N-m marks on the main scale, the handle is at 1.6 Ft-lb can not be set accurately on it without conversion, as 1 N-m does not equal 1 ft-lb. Exactly the mirror opposite of the wrench I had for my video.
HunterHunter88 you need to buy a bigger torque wrench the bigger the size of the wrench more torque it provides, the wrench in this video is probably a 1/4 or 3/8 if you need more torque you need to buy a 1/2inch wrench and so on.
HunterHunter88 how are you going to set it to 100nm if it only goes to 80nm. your wrench should be useable to the max range it has on the wrench. if 100nm is listed on you wrench it will work to 100nm.
Great video. I have a torque wrench that reads in inch pounds. The settings start at 120, then 240, 360, 480, 600 to 960. The handle, when turned 1/2 turn to the first 0 mark on the handle climbs from 120 to 240 and a full turn the second 0 mark is at 360. I assume that each mark on the handle = 12 inch pounds. Anyway, thanks for the video. It helped me with my spark plug replacement.
The steps and bolt pattern is to ensure even seating and uniform load distribution. So don`t reef one corner down with all the other bolts still in a cardboard box. That will skew or crack the block.
Thanks for the idea. To make sure I get it right, can you quote 1 full line of entry from a torque sheet? I've got torque specs, that's ready to be filmed.
Thank you so much for this instructional video. Is there a way to make the numbers show up easier when working in the sun and being blinded by the glare? Any suggestions? Thanks again.
Hi, how do you handle the reading of the rotating handle with number = 0, 0.4, 0.8, 1.2, 1.6, ( torque wrench Xlc TO-S40 ) which is in Foot-pounds and Newton-meters?
Very informative. Can you please do a video on how to read torque sheets. And torque specs. I want to rebuild an engine but lack the knowledge you have. Thank you.
Hey, I just rented a Evertough torqe wrench from the local auto parts store, because mine was slipping.. it reads different from mine and I was wondering if you might shine some light on the numbers .. I understand the numbers on the handle to dial up to .. but on the dial instead of being numbered 1-10, it reads 0,3,6,9,12, do you know what these numbers translate to or the calculation used to figure out how to tune this thing in ? also its a 1/2 inch reading in foot lbs
+dustinpool Those numbers replace decimal digits. Say 50 feet 6 inches = 50.5 feet 50 feet 3 inches = 50.25 feet 50 feet 9 inches = 50.75 feet So, ignore the pounds for now, those are the same on both. The scale 0-12 is a fine adjuster, not too important. Most torque numbers are whole numbers, such as 39 ft-lb. There is even a range, such as 39-42ft-lb as most wrenches are only calibrated by the manufacturer before being sold.
Typically, a possible reading error of being one spot wrong is not critical in applying torque. So being close enough is safe enough, specs are given in a range anyhow (10-12 Nm)
i have a sh dms-1 torque wrench ( www.saphir-service.com/files/IM_SH-DMS-1_2013_UK.pdf ) that has scale marks from 0,2,4,8,10,12,0(14) how to read this one? and if the bottom line is 28nm so can it be wound back to get lower 20 nms or 12nms? or it dont work like that?
Hi can anyone help me . I need to set my torque wrench at 5.5 f---lb or 7.46 N--m to tight the valve cover engine bolts on my car . The torque wrench I have starts at 25 f----lb and I need to know how to set at the mentioned torque before.
MrFreddyelgato Yes, very good observation, don`t move a muscle. The wrench you have is too strong, can not be set to the specified low value. Get a small baby wrench. (Or, in a pinch, hand tighten: 7.46 Nm is barely more than finger - snug. Just barely compress the rubber washers. They will seal, you can check and adjust a hair if needed when the engine runs.)
HunterHunter88 Wrench will be fine but will not click at 100Nm reliably. In further massive overloading cases, say, one can drive a pick-up over a bathroom scale, the spring mounting points may deform inside, so it will be unreliable after.
