Nice!! Yours is the first tutorial I've seen on how to do the code checking with a digital instead of an analog volt meter. Thanks. I will use this method to check for error codes on my 1993 F250 7.3 IDI diesel.
Great tip! What if you do not get any tone? The only time I get tone is after I turn the engine over. Any advice? It just occurred to me no tone might be a good thing.. advice still needed.
Can you read codes this way on Japanese vehicles, Toyotas, Nissans, Subarus etc. They are the most common vehicles around so vids on some of them would be of use to many. Thanks for sharing.
Set it to "ohms" (kinda looks like an upside-down "U" (or the "Omega" symbol). 'O' (the letter) or 'I' will = silent and '0' or some very low number will = beep.
Hey man, I figured I would try to reach out. I bought this exact ranger from the guy you sold it to (VIN FTBR10T3GUC58210) and I'm having some issues with it. Would you be able to possibly help me figure some things out? I've tried this test and my multimeter is not reacting the way yours is. Help would be very much appreciated.
Lmao. Omg. Hahah. My father in law got it to fix up his property. We drove it home almost 59 miles on the interstate. Loved that truck. So what is it doing? List the issues. I’ll tell you what I know about her.
@@Archifx so I was daily driving it and it for the most part ran great, about a month ago I went to grab breakfast and on the way back it wouldn't accelerate from a stop light... I put on the gas and it would about nearly stall. After trying to replicate the problems I found that it only happens when It warms up to operating Temps and it sits at idle for around 2-3 minutes (florida stoplights...) the engine is absolutely sucking air through the intake and if you give it gas slowly (similar to carburetor feathering) it will "come back to life" So far, I've replaced the entire electrical system in order to fix this problem (alternator needed replaced and I got a new battery just for the sake of it) I replaced the following: alternator, battery, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs, vacuum hoses to and from the egr valve solenoid, and the egr valve solenoid (all in that order) with almost no gain. One thing I have noticed is the truck seems to start frighteningly fast (which I've heard can be a sign of poor compression?) Thanks again
So for that engine based on my experience with it and remembering what my father in law was dealing with id do the following: have the oil pump replaced. I believe that engine had a weak oil pump. Don’t rely on the stock oil gauge. Hook up an aftermarket gauge and get a good reading. If bad... Get that replaced so you have good strong oil pressure, after I’d do the IAC MAF. Crank Pos, TPS sensors. Those 2.9’s are famous for the “little things” causing run issues. I have my ranger that has the same BS with it but mine needs heads. The 2.9 is famous fir cracked heads. The one you have has perfect heads so i’d capitalize on that.
