Use stainless steel tubing and heat to make realistic heat-stained headers and exhaust pipes. Due to a reply below, I have to list a link in this description. www.TedsModelingMarketplace.com
Great video. I never thought of using stainless for exhaust. What a great idea,and you are right,nothing like real burnt pipes to represent burnt pipes. Now I need to figure it out in 1/12 scale for motorcycles also. Take care
Thanks. Like you, I'm always trying to think of something different. Plus I can't paint the coloration like some others. You can't beat this for realisim. Thanks for the comment.
Sorry for the late response, Captain. The flange is from the funny car kit. I drilled a hole in each outlet and inserted a rod which is the same OD as the SS header piple ID. Each pipe would slide over the rod for added strength. Thanks for the question and email me if you have more.
Great video Ted, the headers look sic! I was wondering if you have scratch built a rear differential, and if you have would you be willing to share. Thanks
I would like to build something that was just more than styrene. Like your headers, there is nothing like metal mixed with styrene. I was thinking of cutting the axel tubs off and then running a shaft through the 3rd member. Im not sure how to build the 3 link or 4 link setup to tie it to the car. Does that make sence?
Dan Anderson It makes total sense. The axle tubes can easily be made from aluminum, brass or stainless steel. The problem is it would normally be painted and then you wouldn't know it's real metal. Real metal makes perfect sense when it remains bare - like headers, suspension parts (tie rods, links, arms), wheels, drive shaft, wheelie bars etc. There are a few aftermarket people making excellent metal 4-link plates and brackets that would work perfectly with stainless or aluminum rods for the bars. Email me if you want to discuss this further, as some people may not be interested in our conversations (TedsModeling@gmail.com). Thanks again, Dan.
I have charts and tables that convert 1:1 sizes to scales from 1/25 to 1/8 at my online store. Click on the tab (across the top of the screen) called 'LINKS, TECH & INFO' For instance, a 2" exhaust pipe at 1/12 scale would be .167" (4.24mm). It would fall between 5/32" and 3/16". Now it's a matter of finding that size SS tubing. Hope this helps. Let me know how your's turns out. The link is listed in the video description above.
Hey Ted, well I've made a set for a FC Hemi motor, but the flange U used to attach the tubes with is non existent. Any suggestions on what I should use to secure them to motor?? I bought some Soldier that does a good job sticking & securing SS & Alum, so I will probably use that to attach one of those bars U see towards the end of the pipes on the street side... it's the motor side that I'm scratching my head about??🤔🤔Any suggestions R appreciated as always... The headers are for the MPC Hot Rod 72 FC Mustang or the Revell FC just like it.. both stock kit headers are exactly the same... Thanks, LEBIII
