I know nothing of the mechanical nature. Until I found this weird looking thing with a spinning wheel on it laying in a ditch. Turns out it's a denso alternator, mind you I didn't even know what the hell it did once up on a time. You have learned me something right. Thanks man!
To install the bearing throw it in the freezer over night. Turn on the oven and throw the alternator shell in it for about 15 minutes or just heat it with a heat gun. Take the the bearing out of the freezer and while the alternator shell is still hot place the bearing in the bed. It fits right in and it may only require few taps...You are welcome.Do NOT pound a bearing on the inner ring! Find a large enough socket or a piece of pipe which will match the outer ring diameter.
You need to pound on the side of the bearing that is experiencing friction, or else the force is being transmitted through the bearing balls. Sometimes pounding the outside will damage the bearing, sometimes pounding the inside will damage the bearing. The solution for putting a housing onto a bearing that is on the shaft is heating it as you said. Lightly grease the OD the bearing, and put the housing in the oven at 250 degrees and it should slip right over without any pounding. Unfortunately there is no good solution for putting a shaft into a bearing that is already in a housing without applying stress to the balls.
Thanks for this refresher! We learned it in Navy A-school. During the exam, one of the multiple choices for what tool to use for taking apart an alternator was "BFH". One who did not do his homework might choose that - a Big Effin Hammer :)
Hello Mike, thanks for this very informative video. I have a 2006 Honda Accord with the 3.0L V-6 and my original alternator went out about a year and a half, or so, ago. I then purchased and installed a remanufactured 110 amp Denso unit from RockAuto. This Denso/RockAuto unit has been on the car now for around 18 months, give or take. However, approximately 4 months ago, one morning when I started the engine I started hearing this high-pitched whining sound coming from the engine bay. At first, my immediate thought was that it sounded just like a power steering pump, low on fluid. The whine did NOT get louder and/or quieter when turning the steering wheel, in either direction, at idle, or otherwise. I checked the power steering fluid and looked over the hoses for any leaks that may have been sucking air into the system, but nothing!!! I also took a long screwdriver and placed the tip on both the power steering pump and the alternator and placed my ear on the opposite end and the vibration noises coming from the alternator were way louder and way more intense than the vibration noises coming from the power steering pump, like night and day difference. So, after a process of elimination, it is my opinion that it is NOT the power steering pump/system, but rather my alternator, from where the whine is coming from and where my problem lies. I have no problem buying a kit from your site, however, at the same time I would also just like to know why and what is causing the alternator to whine like it is. Is it possible for you to tell me more about this whining noise coming from the alternator? I did a little research online, on some Honda forums, and found exactly what I expected to find... I expected to find ANY answer that I wanted to find and everything in between!!! Some threads said that the whine could be a diode that has burnt out or gone out and it could be this or that and whatever else you could imagine. While I am NOT 100% positive, I do NOT believe that it's the alternator bearings making the whining noise, simply because usually bearings make more of a roaring noise and this is a whine NOT a roar. It also does NOT sound like any bearing I've ever heard that was on the fritz. I mean, to me, it's really more like a supercharger or power steering pump whine than any bearing I have ever heard when going out. Thanks in advance and I look forward to seeing what you have to say in regards to my issue.
Well, we don't sell that kit, just the starter kit. Remove the plug in and main cable from the alternator. If the whine stops, its a diode but still maybe a bearing somewhere. For me, an empty cardboard gift wrap tube is the best thing to locate the source of a noise. Take it to a dealer or Honda mechanic and get an estimate, maybe they would be familiar with a common problem like AC, idler pulley or tensioner. Sometimes soapy water spray will quiet a bearing or clutch for 2 seconds. Give up on line research for this. Process of elimination starting with cheapest.
Nice video, however when you tap down to remove the front cover put the nut on flush with the shaft to protect the threads. Other than than simply awsome video. Keith.
Thanks for a very methodical procedure to tear down the alternator. I would suggest that if you strip the alternator that far down, then it is a good idea to to do a continuity check of terminal to terminal, terminal to ground as well as measure winding resistance for the rotor and each of the three windings of the stator.
Feel free to do any continuity testing of your liking. However we do not support resistance tests of the stator windings with a common ohm meter. People will not know what the resistance is when going phase to phase, and we don't know either, because it's not going to be as accurate as a good visual inspection (looking and smelling for signs of heat) on the stator. Also, squeezing the stator with your hands to test rigidity, or tapping lightly on the stator winding with a screwdriver to check for a good bounce back. The only real electrical test for stator windings would be with a hipot, and very few of the people that buy our kits would be able to get their hands on one.
@@rebuilderinabox You have a good point on measuring resistance. The continuity check will help to confirm that no short exists between the windings and the alternator body.
@Mike Lauer Resistance of the stator windings should be absolutely minimal - well under an ohm. Since the stator is wired in a ‘Y’ configuration (with the neutral at the center), there should be continuity between any two of the four stator terminals. Of course, because resistance should be very low regardless of what you measure, there is no way of knowing whether there is an internal short. But if there is NO continuity or there is rather high resistance between any two terminals, you know you have an issue. In other words, measuring stator continuity detects BREAKS, but not shorts.
excellent diy for the alternators. you did a great guidance compering to a lot of video I saw in the you tube. very precise, handful, applicable and in one word marvelous JOB. thanks so much . hoping for more work like this one. It helped me much.......
got it all apart except for the dam inner bearing its gonna do severe damage prying like you show in the video i tried and im not destroying a shaft in the vise cause the vise cannot hold the shaft as i pry up so i ordered an alternator bearing puller for 15.00 im doing the slip collar as well i used my press to put the outer bearing in used a large socket to press it in super slick n easy. did one a long time ago i kinda like doing bench work like this its fun you made this easy except the slip collar ill find a destroyed cummins denso alternator ill rebuild with a new collar
Outstanding video, similar to the one you did on the starter motor. Nothing like the kind of detail needed to do this at home, and full credit for a technique using simple tools. Does your company ship to Canada?
Notice the line where the front housing meets the rear housing, especially if just buying a reman. That split point should be even all the way around. There is a small lip on both housings it must be clean, I used a Dremel and a brass wire wheel
Great video!! helped so damn much but when i took mines apart i found a small wire that looks like it was on the rotor but is just hanging. is it suppose to be solder on there?
Nah, thought that at first as well, but on 2nd look I noticed that the the breaks are old, dirty & oxidized - no shiny new metal. I'd bin that bad boy, though, or get the case fixed. Figuring he's just using it as a teaching aid.
Good but process isn't complete without using some grease when rebuild the piece, I mean put some grease in bolts, bearing socket, threads and sliding parts in order to get easy reassembly and facilitate disassembly in the future, also some grease or oil contributes to better adjust and tighten of parts, other reccomendation is to use some piece or aluminum, bronze or wood to beat the main shaft, it maintain measures and finishings in a good shape.
Mike Lauer If you’ve not seen it already, “Shake Hands with Danger” is a 1980’s Safety Video by Caterpillar. I highly advise it to all Blue Collar workers, not so much for the safety, but more for the “Entertainment Value”. A+++++
Thank you for your very informative video....the only question I have is if your Denso Alternator has a "Decoupler Pulley" on it, is there any different consideration (or tool) needed to remove that pulley?
Sorry for the delay in response, these particular Denso alternators do not have a clutch pulley on them. On the ones that have a clutch pulley do require a special tool. We are looking into an economical way of distributing a kit for that participial rebuild kit. With the added expense of the tool and the extra cost of a clutch pulley it might be better just to buy an alternator.
Too bad you don't have rebuild kits for my 07 Jeep wrangler 3.8L. Local rebuilder puts cheap Chinese parts in them don't last. I had 200k on mine bearings went out sounded like a groaning sound. I thought it was my PS, or Automatic transmission. I removed the belt and started it the noise was gone. I took it to local rebuilder he rebuilt it the diode board blew out while I was 44 miles up a rock crawling trail in AZ. What a pita had to rope tow out and winch about 10 times using 4 jumper cables to jump tow vehicle power to my rear bumper winch pull me backwards in the switchbacks. Buy OEM if you can't rebuild yourself now, I keep a spare. New OEM worth it when you get stuck on a trail.
You were so careful not to hammer through the bearings when you first installed both of them.... but then you hammered through the front one when installing the rotor, and then the back one when installing the rear casing.
Nicely done video. The only thing left out is how to install slip rings. My slip rings is deeply grooved and looks to be almost to the plastic. how to install a new slip ring?
We only support slip ring replacement on units that will end well with the procedure. For that type of alt. we recommend a used rotor ass'y which you can contact us for (if you have purchased a kit). LImit one per customer.
Nice info! If I wanted to make my alternator "pretty" by cleaning, priming and painting the case, would I need to do anything else special to it besides the full teardown you show? Looking to put in a higher amperage alternator into a 1972 Charger. Thanks!
+AustrianAnarchy While you have the alternator apart it would be a good idea to do the clean up part. If you have access to a sand blaster that would be the easiest way to blast all of the dirt and grim off. Then you are able to use spray paint to get the desired look.
its every easy. get new slip ring.to take off old slip ring crush it in a vice and it will crumble you can pull it off with fingers.cut wires on old slip.to fit new slip ring just line it up and tap it on with nylon hammer solder the wires seal with some arldite job done.iv done thousands. best to put rotor in lathe and skim slip ring to make it spin true did atleast 5 a week for over 20 years.you can get copper rings that you solder over the old slip ring but you need to skim them in a lathe
Muy bueno el video y gracias por compartir el conocimiento. Queria hacerle una pregunta tecnica a ver si usted me puede ayudar, tengo un alternador denso de cherokee 95 el numero de parte es Denso 210-0130 el cual dejo de trabajar lo desmonte y cambie escobillas y al montar en la primera arrancada manda 14V y funciona perfecto en todo, pero al siguiente dia ya no funciona, entonces vuelvo a bajar el alternador y monto de nuevo y vuelve a funcionar perfecto y luego deja de trabajar en la segunda arrancada, ya descarte diodera y estator ya verifique todo el ramal que va desde el alternador a la PCM pero me surge una gran duda el arnes va conectado a dos postes con unas tuerquitas de 7mm esa pieza tiene el numero ATR-6001 y mi duda es si esa pieza funciona como un regulador aun cuando en este caso de jeep cherokee regula la PCM, esa pieza tiene una especie de diodo o resistencia que no se como verificar que este buena y en eso es que espero por favor me pueda ayudar. De antemano muchas gracias y disculpe lo largo de mi comentario. Saludos
There is a vid on RU-vid on how to rewire your alt to double the output, then run a smaller pulley, should get you close to 300 if your starting with a 130a alt...
Do you have any knowledge to why my alternator would be overcharging with 16+ volts? It does it with the voltage regulator unplugged too and the voltage increases with RPM
Hi, thankx for this video , im portuguese and my Jeep Cherokee alternator dont have that number reference but its almost identical , so im having an. issue whit it , when driving and at 2000 rp or more i have about 13 volts and all ok but when i stop hit the pedal sometimes i have about 11, 50 volts or so , even at nigth and i can see ligths going more alive if i hit the acelerador pedal and something funny started happen too wish is my volt gauge fall to 9 volts and then up again , do this almost always i start drive the car .Checking the voltage whit multimiter at alternator i got 12 volts and sometimes less, whit no one hiting pedal ofcorse , but i guess its not working something there . I alreaddy switch the brushes but problem remains, checked the rectifier whit multimiter and i got the same value in all so i presume its good , now i dont know where to check more ; my slip rings are exacly like yours there and i thougth it was the problem but now i saw your video and maybe its not from there , so can you have ideia where my problem can be or what can i check \'
Try another battery. Go thru all vehicle grounds. Clean fuse block. Voltage reg is in computer, clean connections, grounds. Follow large wire coming off alternator, dis assemble fuse link and clean.
thanks for your answer, just another question, do you know the right value of diodes? I checked and gave me about 4 in all them , but yesterday I did another try checking a output alternator and case and got about 1, 12
@@000jamesh They will all measure very similar resistance. Then checking in reverse, very little bleed thru. The exact reading will vary on scale and meters.
Not a common problem unless the vehicle was subjected to unusual wear or dead shorts. But yes the alternator will not charge if it is bad. We have them available separately because normally it is a re usable item for 2-3 hundred K miles. 4 phases in the winding has little stress on the diodes and they are very efficiently cooled in this particular Denso design.
Yes, there are tools to do that cold. We usually do that with our rebuilds so we can blast the plates in a tumbler machine. However the tooling is rather pricy and wouldn't be worth it to the average guy. Maybe you could take the piece to a local rebuilder and have it dis assembled. Re assembly requires no special tooling, just oven heat the plate (350F for 1/2 hr) and tap it back in exact position.
@@rebuilderinabox Many thanks for taking the time to reply Mike. I live quite remote so no facilities nearby. I'll just need to get busy with a scotchbrite 🙂 Cheers
Hi I did it but when I closed it it's not spinning freely and it's grinding . I changed both wheel bearings . Do u think it's not align properly or fans r touching housing / casing ?. Regards
Not the bearings. Lightly hammer tap outside diameter at position where roughness or hit occurs. Place drive end plate on vice with pulley free in between the jaws. Light hammer tap down on back plate. Retighten thru bolts. Fans on rotor can also be tapped down or in. Look for marks inside. A little interference (not jamming rotation) can be tolerated) It will stop shortly after installation with no side effects to alternator.
Why is a voltage regulator the same price as a whole alternator? Ive looked everywhere the cheapest is autozone for $80 while a brand new alternator is $100
A worthy argument and true for for some (Ford) but not Denso or Delphi. We have studied this over the years and stand by our statement for 99%. Aftermarket brushes have a higher carbon content which slows copper wear down dramatically. The wear on a Denso OE will be 100% with 100k miles on some apps, but < 10% at 100K on others due to battery age and pollutants.
@@rebuilderinabox oh my brother owned his own alternator and starter repair shop for years but at this time we are so far apart he wasn't able to help me but also had sold his shop but you can find it in New Castle Indiana under Elwood alternator and starter repair. But thank you anyway
Our goal is 100% success rate. We'd rather you don't try this at home. We show you some grooves are tolerable, particularly with our brushes which have a little more carbon than OE. If you happen to have one that's burnt through to the plastic, we'd recommend calling us to order a new one, or possibly we would have a used one available.
Please don't. Nasty would be the center piece of a puller messing up the copper slip ring by spreading it from center pressure. Try it if you have one you want to waste.
I can understand hammer and all but 12:00 socket extension on the huge diameter bearing? Come on .....; at least look around your shop for something better. These must be how street guys given hammer to tear down concrete walls.I would not go to this rebuilder.
This movie is part of a website that is designed by professionals but dedicated to America's working man in the trenches who may have limited tools and budget. We supply the parts and the exact video for the blue collar guy, so he can get to work with basic tools. See our mission statement on our website. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/
Anything's possible but I doubt it. If you found one leave a link. The guys in the shop have been using Snap-on CG270 but we had to customize it by grinding off the bottom part of the legs and removing the centering piece and using a penny. (the recessed opening in the top is so small, any puller's shaft would bend before pulling the bearing) However, the penny with a CG270 is malleable enough to conform and pull without any damage to the plastic slip ring if the centering devise has been removed. PROBLEM is our site is dedicated to the average guy with basic tools. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/. SOLUTION is pry bars. When used carefully, they work great.