BEFORE compressing the rings, LUBRICATE the rings, the piston skirt and even the ring compressor itself with engine oil. Even the cylinder walls should be lightly lubricated, Otherwise damage may occur during piston installation.
Have the machine shop install the new cam bearings. Always use dish soap and water and brushes to do a final cleaning after you bring It home from the machine shop. Use compressed air to blow everyting dry.
just a tip for next time. before you send your engine to the machine shop that is the best time to remove the old paint this way you can get ALL of it off. then once you get it back you can use a good primer before you paint it. its just better to start completely fresh as opposed to removing just the loose paint
To make it easier to follow the progression of these videos, you should number them in the title. Also, when you add a new video in the series you could go back and post a link that would direct us to the next video. Great videos and very professional. Thanks
If you notice in one shot at 10:05, they put what looks like white assembly lube on the cylinder walls... which is TOTALLY NOT what you want to use....
i love the show and im a highschool freshman and i was wondering when i got get to college what should i major in to get into cars i was thinking mechanical engineering but im not exactly sure
I love this show so much its helping me learn so much I am in the military and I am getting out to be a mechanical engineering because of your show so thank you so much
why would you not use plasti gauge to check the bearing clearances on the main caps? And you torque the 4 inner caps first and then hit the first main cap with a rubber mallet or hammer on another hammer to seat the thrust bearing
More interested in painting it than showing where all the oil gallery plugs go especially the 2 hidden ones most commonly missed and without them you destroy the engine.
the cross hatch put in the cylinder during the honing process will make the rings rotate in the cylinder, and due to imperfections and differences in the thickness and design of each ring, they will rotate at different speeds. in fact all two stroke engines have pins in the pistons that disables the rings ability to rotate, so the orientation of the ring gaps during assembly is pointless because it will all get messed up during engine operation.
thats all wonderful but no plastagauge to check tolerance no oil on rings or wrist pins dont offset rear main i dont use that molly cam lobe grease on anything but cam lobes and i will never wear gloves while building a engine ya cant feel grit ol boy couldnt work at my shop i prime every engine built no lube under head bolts those two clean dry surfaces play hell with torque readings after torquin head and main bolts take a fat ass puntch and a 2 pound hammer and give the bolt heads a good wrap then re chech readings it just helps everyone kinda relax but hay i guess if ya trust everyone to do a perfect job everythings ok but i would rather know what my bearing tollerances are perfect world or not
This world is crazy. Just 9 years ago it was totally cool to have a sexy lady help you build a motor for the fun of it, now it's probably a hate crime in 6 states. Great Video!
Freeze plugs aren't - they are core plugs - and they are not where the molten metal is introduced - they are where the inner sand core is supported and later cleaned out when the casting is made.
Threadlock maybe used, but the torque values may differ. Common application would be on the rodbolts. Pretty sure the ARP site covers the use of other compounds and how they change the torque required. It still remains important to lube the area under the bolt head/nut as well to over come friction for the same reason.
It's still going on TV, www.motorz.tv, and Prime Video. Full episodes aren't on YT anymore. New C10 build episodes are on hold for the time being because of the pandemic, but we'll be back at some point :) Thanks for watching
@@jdrok5026 are you sure about a 2 bolt being as strong as a 4 bolt I have had both and my 2 bolt arp 2000 studs cracked 2 main caps at 2,000 miles with 525hp 531lb.ft my 4 bolt arp 2000 studs has held 565hp and 588lb.ft for 36,770 miles both are 880 L31 blocks just capable of different holding more-less horsepower both shifted at 6800 rpm identical converter,transmissions, and rear diff ratios
Not a big fan of A&P they don't seem to make very much stuff for a 94 Chevy I was wondering if you could recommend sights that will carry aftermarket for a truck that is 94 thank you. I all ready get LMC
You might want to find a new machine shop as it seems the one you used did not hot tank the block. If they would have there would be no paint left on the block to be removed with a wire brush. Most shops will shoot some wd 40 on the block to stop any rusting that will start on a totally clean block. All you do is wash off the oil and primer the block after which you can apply the color coat.
Since this is about a rebuild how about a custom build how do i know on what grade of oil do i use on the build either NA and F induction? And on grade of oil for certian tolerances
oSHOLLIVERo They arent freeze plugs, they are welch plugs or expansion plugs used to fill the holes left after the casting process. They were never meant to pop out if the engine freezes.
Great video as always Chris. I also would love a video on window tinting. We have an old '96 Accord I easily removed the old cracjed & bubbled tint with a steam machine, a razor & a few towels. As how to put clean, streak & bubble free tint back on would be an invaluable video especially under the hot California summer sun.
Is there a trick to putting the piston rings onto the piston without bending or damaging them? Also, how much does a rebuild kit cost such as the one you're using in this video? (everything) BTW this is the best video i've seen yet for SB rebuilds.
@oSHOLLIVERo Yep. Another thing about them is the MAIN reason the holes are there are actually so when the block is casted, they can get the sand out. So they figured instead of welding the holes shut, they'd put plugs in case it freezes
So, from start to finish, how much did this whole process cost, approximately? i am curious because i would like to this to my 5.0, doing all the work myself (except machining the parts), but i have no idea of how much it run.
Do you write a list of every tool you'll need in a comment? Also where do you buy the Mahle power kit from the actual Mahle website or some other outlet store?
Did you all have the rotating assembly balanced? I have a 383 stroker project im working on, and would love to hear your input. Scat crank, scat rods and wiseco pistons...whats your take?
@MrChico809: Scat crank....hardened forging? Okay. Well, call a reputable crank grinder in your state. Why? "Everyone" gets the "forged pieces" But, very few get their shaft lightened by a competent crank grinder who could correctly remove about 20 ounces of material off that rotating mass. You are trying for increased torque with the longer stroke, but sacrificing combustion time( hang) at tdc with a shorter rod. Lighten your crank, shorten "wind up time" and lower your ET A hardened crank is expensive to have lightened though.[tooling costs] Ask about hardening -post grind. A high quality 6.125 inch rod with appropriate high silicon piston in a tight ring package will restore complete combustion[Especially with AFR alloy heads]2.05 int and titanium roller and a Jessell belt drive. A long stroke crank with a custom reduced base circle cam[rod bolt clearance] Lunati and Hank, etc have this stuff-$$$. 462 cu/inch 1st Gen mouse. My 2cents: Scat/Wiseco, Ebay parts. Good for scattering name brand 20w50 onto a track in the 1st 60 ft. The difference between every ones "383 Stroker" and the one that outperforms.
Most rod bearing halves are the same and can go in either top or bottom right? Mines a 95 350 sbc with stock rods, as far as I can tell they are both the same but don't wanna do it wrong lol using std size king si rod bearings
Many people mention crush on the bearings.......And oil clearances. I am going to tell Ya-ll a little engine builder 'secret..............I buy dozens of quality tr-metal Clevite rod/main bearing sets,cams lifters, forged pistons sets. I measure all of them and hand fit selected parts from all the combined sets as sum total to the engine I am assembling. I do this for advantage of: slight manufacturer tolerance variations in mass production. I continue "mix and match" until they no longer meet my criteria. HINT [Some big name racing parts companies supply OEM too] And big name cam company's make 1000's of your favorite grinds ALL the time. I have an engine with precision fit. A quality hand assembled piece requiring minimal balancing and[with all machine work according to my spec] for RPM and application I am building it for. I do this for valve springs too. Straightness, seat pressure, installed height. Beware of E-bay listings of "new" engine rod/main bearing sets or forged brand-X-pistons Factory-sealed and unopened from manufacturer of engine parts, is much more meaningful compared to new" unused on Ebay. [On disassemble most newbies fail to remember which rod or main cap goes on what.]
graeme leigh There are potentially 100's+ who could view my comment. I warned of persons offering for sale precision bearings, piston rings or other engine components not in their original unopened packages. Legitimate products strive for proprietary packaging that evidences tampering unless of course It's a knockoff from Asia, with dedicated counterfeit artists doing their nasty work. It was informative in intent graeme, not derogatory. Cheers.
In reply to Chevyman5436: And anyone else wishing to learn. The "Freeze plugs" are actually part of the engine block casting process from the sand mold This is where the molten iron is actually introduced and the "holes" are left over after casting. Solution: Drive a "welch" plug into it to seal the water jacket. If you wish you CAN run water in an engine: The downsides are: Water boils at 212 Fahrenheit. A mix of low mineral content water [distilled or deionized] and Glycol type low silica coolant increases the boiling point well above 212 and has additives to reduce corrosion. Frozen water DOES expand: Popping out the welch plugs because they ARE the weak point. If you have ever removed heads from an engine suffering extended abuse of no glycol coolant, expect the factory steel shim head gaskets to have rusted the heads and block together as a unit. Solution: Thor god of Thunder application with 4lb hammer and four foot length of 1-1/4" pipe. Just be very careful cursing the owner between hammer blows.
No, 50/50 antifreeze still boils about 223F. It's the 16psi pressure that raises the boiling temp. That's why you don't remove the cap on a hot radiator, it will lose pressure and spray steam and boiling coolant everywhere.
You'd have to pull the heads off to check if the pistons are stamped saying .30 over On sbc 350 .30 over is 355 cubic inches .60 over is 360 cubic inches
Any body know what the name of those pistons are called? I know mahle but I cant find them anywhere and I think if someone knew what to look up that it would really help me find them.
Good shows. They are right about safety goggles and would hate to get that wire size stuck in me. Had a fine wire wheel stick me in eye and if you ever saw "Clockwork Orange", that's the same apparatus used by doctor to hold your eyelids open while they pull wire out. Only enjoyable part was sweet heart nurse putting me in a headlock while doctor went to work. I was lucky and eye was OK afterward.
... with new complete motor rebuild except the heads , they LOOKED as if they had just came from the rebuild shop , why with only having less than 2000 miles and one oil change after break in oil and lube is motor burning oil , black , and smoke from exhaust ?? .. .. I believe oil being black is from car running too lean .. .. and to the bottom of the heads I only cleaned the up with 3m polishing discs because they looked like they were redone ... any help .. input . Im now missing car shows
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@ 10:59 that bearing DOES NOT go on that rod end cap. Also to check crankshaft end play you need to use a dial gauge W/ magnetic base and two pry bars. And that's just for starters on what's going on WRONG HERE. ~V~ Obsession
Too bad your block re-builder didn't have a "hot tank" which would have removed all of the old paint. I think they still use them, they have lye in the liquid that degreases and strips all to the metal.
+Fast Furious block casting numbers, 4"bore if its stock, 5.7 inch rods, and a 3.48 stroke. 327's have a 4 inch bore as well. so be careful to measure the stroke if your going off of bore diameter. Google is your friend.
