I found a 1973 dodge charger on craigslist with the 360 engine still intact, I'm thinking about buying it. This will be my first car restoration and I'm getting very excited watching all these videos.
Love the series, built many SBC myself -- and I hate to gripe but ive seen two major mistakes so far, the rear main seal was installed with no lubricant on the seal material, this will damage the seal in startup and may well lead to an oil leak very soon --- the second major mistake is he put the head bolts in with oil instead of silicone sealer, in a stock block such as this the head bolts enter the cooling jackets and MUST have silicone sealer on the threads, they come this way fr. factory.
Fun fact: Some camshafts sold by Crower/Lunati and a few others are actually reboxed white box camshafts made by Elgin. Study the cam specs and you can purchase the same cam from Elgin at a little over half the price.
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Aircooled VWs are old.. LOL. Like older Bugs and whatnot. Don't hate on 4-bangers. V8 muscle and turbo'd 4,5, and 6 cylinder engines are all cool. My turbo'd 4-cylinder smashes on V8s all day long AND gets better gas mileage. But I still love my '91 Trans Am. But anyways..just appreciate car culture altogether. Don't hate.
not all sbc's have head bolt holes with open water jackets. i have also read that you can use teflon tape, instead of permatex aviation 2 form a gasket.
Curious why he didn't go with a set of roller rockers too since they put roller cam in and Dart heads? Spend the extra on the rockers too. Just my opinion I guess.
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You can always calculate the difference. Extensions are about 3% loss and anti seize is about 20%. Yes avoid it if you can, especially on the bottom end of the engine but if you can calculate the loss then it’s the same amount of torque..
If you want to make your life easier, adjust the valve lash before installing the intake manifold. Its way easier. As you spin it to top dead you can actually watch the pushrod compress the lifter while you tighten the rockers. (if it's not a solid lifter engine that is).
im not trying to knock the video. its not a good idea to use moly lube on the cam bearings because they can delay oil to the rest of the engines components during initial start up. i learned this the hard way now i onl;y use the moly on the lifter bottoms and the lobes oil on the bearing surfaces.
You're supposed to use thread sealer on the head bolts when your using a factor chevy block not oil. If you don't you're going to have an oil pan full of coolant as well as a coolant leak on every head bolt. The only block I know of that doesn't require thread sealant is made by DART and that's because the head bolt holes are blind and aren't open to the water jacket.
I think this is a pretty great series! One thing I really want to see done is actual assembly of the cylinder head please! I'm in the process of building my first motor and trying to do it step by step and do it right. Not just throw parts together. I'm sure I'm not the only person unsure of valve guide seals and such and some of the information surrounding the valve train. like where to get those specs and such. Thank you, in any case!
are those tty head bolts? there is more than one tightening sequence. it should be in thirds starting around 25 ft/lbs. and it's easier to check prestart valve lash and push rods angle with the intake while turning the engine over. your supposed to set final lash with the engine warm and running. I always have a set of valve covers I cut for that purpose.
You are suppose to use thread sealer on thru holes for most production sbc blocks. Bowtie blocks and aftermarket blocks have whats called blind holes that dont require thread sealant and can be assembled with oil or arp molley coat. The use of oil with thru holes will leak into the engine. It also hepls to o-ring the head bolts as a second seal.
I liked the information regarding the parts information. Rather than point out negative feedback, I only have one question, why did you zoom through the valve, lifter and rod installation and specs. Is there a website where you can point me in the right direction?
All the head bolts except the top row are drilled through into the water jacket. Thread sealant is to be applied to all but the top row. Also you are supposed to torque the heads in 3 stages. 20ft lbs, then 50, then 70. I quit watching at this point.
lol, im gonna say they left the engine in the upright position for the camera and videos purpose. But, to make it easier to put the heads on, rotate your engine stand to where your head can lay flat down. It will make it way easy, if you gotta do it by yourself. Also, to keep the head gasket from moving, it wont hurt to put JUST A LITTLE rtv in two of the corners to keep it stuck.
It is false that dipping bolts in oil that are TTY style gives you more accurate torque. It requires a small dab of oil. All of the oil off that bolt that the guy dipped in, went to the bottom of the threads where there is no way of it draining out, when you torque it, the oil in the bottom is compressed and will effect the torque.
Bam, just answered my question about oiling bolts that will be set at a specific torque. A little leading oil on the threads, 2-3 threads, not dipped and globbed with extra oil to spare!
We can only cover so much in one episode :) We've got one more Chevy 350 episode on the way, and then in a future episode we'll be installing it in one of our project vehicles. Thanks for watching!
Have you fired the engine yet or will that be in the next video? I noticed you didnt use any sealant but oil on the bottom heads bolts that run into the water jackets. Or did you just not show it? Very important step to note so water doesnt seep out.
You are suppose to use thread sealer on thru holes for most production sbc blocks. Bowtie blocks and aftermarket blocks have whats called blind holes that dont require thread sealant and can be assembled with oil or arp molley coat. The use of oil with thru holes will leak into the engine. It also hepls to o-ring the head bolts as a second seal.
These videos are GREAT! There's one thing though... When's Olivia going to get in on some engine building? She needs some seat time! You guys should do a "carburetor'd turbocharged build on a small-block V8 and get her in on it! I really would like to see how to turbo a carburetor'd v8 though, I here there are some things about air pressures within and outside the carb that have be dealt with. Again though, GREAT VID's KEEP IT UP!
If they were using stock style head bolt you are correct, but it looks like they are using aftermarket bolts "possibly ARP" which are not ' torque to yeild' like the stock bolts. My concern is that they didn't use a sealer style lubricant which ARP and others make because those head bolts go to water. It is highly possible that coolant will now get into the engine.
Question: Many years ago I built a lot of engines and we always put thread sealer on the threads of the head bolts, especially the ones in the water jackets. It also would act like a lubricant for proper torque on the heads. Is this something new that you don’t need to do that, just dip them in motor oil will take care of it.
my shop teacher back in the day told me its for accurate torque, thats what i heard, not sure if its totaly right. i rebuilt heads on my chevy lumina and the instructions from felpro said to soak the threads in oil first. if the heads are on the block im sure the weight would keep a tight enough seal on the gaskets... at least thats what would make sence.
I always torque in 3 steps.......such as 70 ft. Lbs. on the head bolts would get a 40.....55.....then the final 70. When I lived in Indy . Steve Schmidt Racing engines did all of my engine machine work. Awesome race shop awesome engine work At the time in the late 90's SSRE was. Building A lot of engines for NHRA pro stock. Not sure if he still does. I remember when I took my block in for machine work and it was all clean with the inside and outside painted and the block machinist who did the machining asked if my engine was a raw casting and I said no.....I bead blasted it in my large blast cabinet. I remember the block machinist commenting....... WOW.....I have never seen a seasoned block come in that clean before.....LOL.....I would tape and plug any surfaces I didn't want blasted and go at it.Give a rinse in the parts washer using mineral spirits engine brush and blow out it all the holes then paint the insides of the block with Glyptol red engine enamel. It helps the enamel to adhere better then I would paint the exterior of the block with high heat engine enamel. No issues whatsoever the paint always adhered well and looked fresh and new. No peeling.... Whenever I would get my engines back from the machine shop they were pretty much already to go with assembly. All cleaning deburring painting taken care f ahead f time. I always got the non chemical,rinse after machine work just to remove machining debris. I always washed the block a couple times with the pressure washer and Tide powder soap and have the oil squirt can ready to prevent rusting the freshly machined surfaces after the block and passages are air compressed blown dry. Engine supplies from Goodson always helped in my engine rebuilding. I usually shot blasted the crank and rods. Any type of blasting takes a meticulous cleaning with every bore brushed, rinsed and then brushed and rinsed again. ARP racing studs for the crank and heads on any performance engine.....ALWAYS.....I often used Total Seal piston rings along with TRW moly rings....I had no issues......Get a degree wheel and degree in the cam....it is worth it....if you are an engine builder you know the scoop......if not.....get a good engine rebuild book and if you are mechanically inclined you can learn it. I built an engine testing stand and ran my engines before they were put in the vehicle. Helped with tuning and to check for any issues. To me engine building was a hobby..... I always enjoyed it. Sometimes the best option now a days is to just purchase a crate engine. Ready to go as far as the block machining and depending on a short or long block kit the hard meticulous precision machining work has already been done for you. ......Have Fun.
Thanks for the info grate show. But I've heard in other vids that in a 350 Small block chevy you don't put your timing cange with piston #1 at TDC insted you put #6 at comprestion stroke. What is your comment on that?
wont all that oil on the head bolts hydraulic and give a false reading at the torque spec, maybe moly lube on one side of the treads will be sufficient enough.
Crazy that I just found this acc thanks for the info I’m thinking about getting an edle brock top end kit with a cam but I’m just so damn nervous imma fuck it up
I bought a stage 3 camshaft kit for a SBC 5.7 vortec engine, the kit came with the camschaft lifters, gear and timing chain, I put the stage 3 cam, the gear and the timing chain, but I did not put the new lifters that came I put the stock ones in the kit, now when I drive my truck it doesn't take off, I press the throttle and it almost doesn't run, the engine sounds as if I hadn't put anything on it, my question is the following: does the engine of my truck work? So why didn't I put the new lifters on it?
Learned that trick in my auto class I just took this last school year. My friend was putting a new pulley on his car but some adapter or something needed to go on first so he told him to put it in a frying pan with oil and let it heat up till it boils and then put the part on right away and it worked
No thread sealant on the head bolts, no instructions on how to insert the lifters, i still have no idea how you got that tape out from underneath the intake and why wouldnt you go with roller rockers? besides all that you guys are making a big deal over how he put the cam in, like come on thats how you put a cam in. "Gently" pretty much just means dont snap that bitch in half when your putting it in the block.
yes i like it better then rtv i only use rtv for the intakes water ports and across the front and back of the block instead of the cheap rubber seals. those go in the trash
Tlcbear2 is right always put thread sealer on the head bolts. And whats with the roller cam shouldnt there be a thrust plate or cam button so it doesnt walk?
In reply to (thehossman1) comment @ me. Actually, This is a late model SBC they are working on, and yes they did have torque to yield bolts. The LT1 also used torque to yield bolts, and both engines preceded the LS engines.
I just found you on RU-vid and it so happens I am getting ready to rebuild my C10 350 engine. Is there any way of getting the parts list you used in this series (everything you changed or install new). All I need are the parts list and the vendors names. Thank you so much for the videos, please keep it coming (I subscribed so I will be watching any/all things you post).
I noticed you didn't mention that you had to turn the crank 360° to get your time and dots at 12 that would be number one top dead center compression stroke
I have built several sbc and bbc and I am curious about the head bolts in oil also how do you keep the gasket/surfaces free from oil when you insert the bolt? I would think this is a semi dangerous practice i was always told "Cleanliness is next to Godliness".
Why did he pound on the low timing chain gear? That mess up your end play and f up your bearing. They have a tool that presses it on with no damage to your bottom end. And the last time I work on my 350 the intake torques down to 30 lbs.
So I'm trying to follow the torque sequence. Would the number 17 bolt be at the very front(nearest to fan) on both sides? Or is the right side order opposite of the left side?
It's not necessary or required by the manual on any engine I know of. However, he did forget to use thread *sealant* on the head bolts that go thru into the water jacket.
agreed. its basic physics. an engine with a higher volume for compression will beat a smaller engine in power. yes there are some 4 cylinders with 800 hp and yes there are some 6 cylinders that can be at 1200 hp but how about v8 drag cars that are over 3000 horsepower easy? the point is yes you can give a lot of power to a 4 cylinder. but if you do the same mods, in proportion to the engine size, to both a 4 cylinder and an 8 cylinder engine. the 8 cylinder engine will win every time.
