Use to have a 2000 prelude myself. Loooooved it! H22 was fun to drive. just a little more complicated for me. Awesome to see that youre down to work on others cars with such confidence. Even better to see that they trust you more to do it for them, but who shouldnt?! Great job Jon
+Anthony Del Rio This was a first for me, but I was eager to learn, and it was pretty much the same. The added ball joint was odd but made sense as how it connected to the radius rod. After finishing I test drove it and I love it! The bigger car and engine, it was a pretty comfy ride! Those EF's can be too light sometimes and you feel everything in the road!
Yea Jon definitely. Was one of the best things i liked about it. The smoothness. Cant count out the power of an H series either! So what was your initial reaction when you found all the crap spot welds??
Anthony Del Rio WTF said out loud.. haha. It just sucked seeing how some people work on cars and treat their customers. I do it for some extra cash and to learn something new and treat their cars as I would my own. The owner said the car felt 100% better after driving it home. That right there makes me feel good!
Thank you very much GBH! Working on my 99 Prelude currently & I have discovered I have a very bad wheel bearing in the rear passenger wheel. This video has helped me tremendously.
I know this is 2 years old, but if you have an sh prelude, there are 2 different balljoints. That would be why you see the one balljoint was so loose, it was the wrong balljoint. They both need pressed in. You can use rock Auto to search the various part numbers. And price is relatively cheap. I just did these ball joints on mine. Good luck lude lovers
Man you make great videos!! I don't even have a civic or prelude but I am in the process of rebuilding my 97 GS-R and your videos have been a great help!! 👍👍 thanks for your videos and keep it up!
Thanks Dennis for the kind words! I'm glad to help out! My first serious Honda was a 94 GSR which I loved! Ever since then it has been about making them perform better and look better!
I might have a ton Of questions so not to hog the comment section I’ll try to keep them here if I get a reply... at 13:32 can I ask why you didn’t use your 12 ton press? Maybe because it’s just an easier fit to just hit it out? Another question for the top ball joints.. I noticed you used adjustable ball joints… Any reason why? Any part number to help us here? And if I order a new control arm with the ball joint built-in by Moog can I just leave that as is?
Great job! Allow me just a tip, you probably already know, but you distracted: to install the hub bearing you have to push it with a large socket only using the external ring or you risk to ruin it. You should never install a bearing by pushing it from the inner ring.
@@GarageBuiltHondas you can use the old wheel bearing to press the new bearing in...it's the same size and no damage will occur to new bearing while being pushed in. Great job!
There's a specific ball joint that you need to buy from Honda for the radius rod lower ball joint. That's why the ball joint was loose when you pressed it in. It's a pain in the ass because you can only buy it at a dealership for like $50.
Hmm? Here in Europe you can also buy the radius rod lower ball joint (51220-S30-N21) from certain autoparts stores, not only from Honda and/or their retainers. For example: www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/51220s30n21
You should never put pressure on the inside race while pressing the outside of the bearing race into place, always and only press the race you're setting. You put a lot of lateral pressure stress on the ball bearings and both races when there's high pressure on them without spinning... The very same reason you had for not doing it when pressing the hub. My Dad was a machinist and taught me that. Every other trick you're using looks great and I would do the same myself, but I'd leave my dust covers on to keep water off my brakes in the rain. Over all nice work, Peace :)
yes he needed to switch the placement of washers at the very least..i see what you mean.. must have been a well made bearing. tthe other side could have come apart ,, but not really since it had the washer pushed and placed on the outer race ...I guess thats why it worked out
Not nessasary to spend $119 for a bearing press tool kit......but you did later in another episode! Lol. I'm just messing with ya friend. I bought one too off ebay for $54 dollars. Works like a jewel. I love it. Took me 55 years to finally break down and buy the kit lol.
I haven't worked on a prelude yet but damn was weird seeing the double lower ball joints...then spot welded they had to go outta the way to do that when it could have took them a few seconds just to do it right SMH! I'm sure the customer is happy knowing its been done right.
Right buddy!?! It baffles me not just completely doing it right. It was probably easier to spot weld, but I've never seen a lower ball joint not come with the snap rings.
Garage Built Hondas me either..but even if it didn't come with any the originals should of had them .. there's no excuse why they weren't used other than they had no idea WTF they were doing.
+Steizzy CRX Nice, same process too! I have another video for my wagon front suspension where I do the same work. You can use that for all the exact steps as your car too!
If my car is swaying left and right on the road do you think its the alignment or bad bushings? I know it's not from the crazy camber because ive had that forever lol.
Probably a combo of both. Being that low really puts stress on the bushings and if you've never changed them then they are probably pretty worn out. They might be sagging or completely destroyed like the ones in this video. An alignment will definitely help, but you'll probably have a hard time finding an alignment tech that will align your car at such a negative camber. Shops can be a real PITA in that aspect, most places won't stretch tires anymore either.
And actually here in Washington a lot of shops will tune alignment (including camber) to any specs if your car i able to do so. One shop said they would actually set my camber to -25 if i make the kit short enough lmao. And they'd set the toe to whatever aswell. Also we have a lot of shops that will stretch tires.
They probably had the same problem I did with the ball joints. All of them seem to be the same size, the only place I found had the right size is advanced auto. They are different which is weird to me.
I need something quiet and comfortable for doing some long distance driving very soon. Basically something i can put 30k to 40k on over the next year. Also good on gas and cheap to fix. I've been leaning towards a prelude or a 2006 - 2010 civic. Prelude is like a poor mans grand tour. Civic is probably more practical.
Civic probably better for room also. Get a sedan and have tons of room for anything you can throw at it. We had over 2 weeks of downtime on this car getting the right LCA bushings. 3 of them that were sent to us did not fit. We finally ordered some more expensive ones from autozone and their fit was perfect!
ive owned a crx si, a 90's civic hatch no vtec/ but the prelude is the most fun car to drive, it handles so well, actually has back seats (but only for non-sumo wrestling japanese or kids comfortably. you can put the driver or passengers seat back and sleep in this car comfortably, and you have a descent amount more torque that to me, really makes the car fun to drive, without the 2.2 liter in this year range, their isnt any other car that you can buy that is as fun to drive for the price! but they are becoming a classic, and parts are getting harder to find sometimes., SO the price for a finished prelude now is much higher, then it used to have been. the 97-01 is kinda not really a car that was as popular as some models, and alot of people have crashed many of them being stupid...and alot were made automatic. which is a big no no! dont get an automatic. mY prelude has 300k miles on it. and it still pulls! but it burns oil, but my tranny is very good. DOING THE WORK YOU SEE HERE IS WHATS NEEDED TO KEEP REJUVENATE IT..I plan to rebuild the engine though soon...and repaint her too. DONT LET NOONE CONVINCE YOU TO SELL YOUR OLD CAR< LET NOT WIFE NO COP< NO BABY COMING CONVINCE YOU TO GIVE UP ONE OF THE FEW THINGS US MEN and its alot safer than owning a harley and your ability to hear wont suffer either. just sayin. have a good day.
Great video man! Question, I have a Type SH and i"m looking to do the lower ball joints, do you know if there are both the same ball joint? Was yours the base model or Type SH? The LCA ball joints in your video look identical.
Buen trabajo me gustan tus vídeos poreso estoy registrado con tu canal para que cada de que subas vídeos me lleguen las notificaciones muchas gracias dios te vendiga amigo
Check here. I show it in detail here also. It's just a large threaded stock from Ace hardware and a handful of large nuts/bolts. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_V8sBGy0BAU.html
Garage Built Hondas Awesome work. I did something like this on mine a while ago upper control arms, lower ball joints, Axles, tie rods and rack and pinion. Now my oil light comes on can't figure it out its been sitting like a year
Is it burning oil or smoking? The oil light means it's low. You should check the level, you could also test the oil pressure, I believe auto parts stores might rent a tool for that.
@@GarageBuiltHondas haha they definitely wont move,but feel sorry for the next guy (you in this situation) who hows the change them out...I have a 92 lude and lower control arms are super hard to find,I've never seen this before Haha,just kinda WOWed
Very good how to video.. hey just got my hands on a 2000 honda prelude manual transmission.. I'm from ELP and was wondering if you have any videos on how to work on transmissions or were to get it rebuild gears 1-4 work but 5 dosent and suspension is shot
I need some help with this project i was wondering if you can give me a hand with how much do you charge to rebuild suspensión or can you help me out to get parst
Hi im doing the same exact tjing just im having difficulty forward ball joint ,hammering in wont work and i tired the ball joint press from autozone with the c clamp and the ball joint always ends up going in lobsided, any ideas or tip?
The problem is finding parts that fit. Do you have links or a parts list? OI have already ordered several parts that say they are for SH but they don't fit. Can't find inner LCA front bushings.
Great vid! But I was watching to see how to remove the inner axle boot which is the only thing you didn't show...Can you please tell me how you got it off...I can not get out for the life of me & I tried everything I read up in the on the SH forms
@@GarageBuiltHondas Tough is an understatement lol...I used about 7 different pry bars, none worked...I've even hit with an extension threw the tranny...Just rented a slide hammer with a CV adapter, hopefully that works
@@GarageBuiltHondas I'd say! Even with the slide hammer I was unsuccessful...I'm going to try hitting it with a extension from the top with 1 more time. If that fails I'm just gonna clean out the inner CV, regresse & put the new shaft in
Hi, where can I buy the ball joint that goes to that radius rod, been looking everywhere for it and i can't find no one selling that one, even the dealer wont sell it, thanks for the help
Does anybody know what car does the f23 engine comes out from and what Ecu to run I have a p72 ecu because I have a 95 ej1 and it had a f series swap some please help
You never did the axle. I bought an axle but both ends aren’t makes. I have one make end and one female end but my auto shop claims it’s for my car? What do I do?
Dude!! I need to do all that to my 1999 Prelude. And make that tool. I just did the clutch. My drivers side CV axle came apart. I put it back together but I have a wobble now. Where did you get all those parts? But I'd want poly bushing tho.
Soooo I've got a 97 Honda prelude with the h22a I just had the timing kit and belt replaced not after 2 hours after having it fixed I got on it pretty hard and my VTech stopped working it still runs and drives won't rev over 4 grand thoes seems like I hit rev limiter at 4 k and my VTech won't engauge either... It sometimes overheats too for some reason.. and suggestions I can't find a bunch of info on preludes.. I forgot to mention it's got hondata on it too
+Lucas Lachney please tell me the engine oil level is ok? No vtec happens from low oil and some people forget that every now and then. Did any CEL's come on?
By the way i had an issue with aftermarket ball joints for the sh , all the brands I tried slide right in and came with snap rings but would have play ,I had to use original genuine honda ball joints,this happened on the radius rod ball joint on the knuckle
Do u know the sizes for the threaded stock washers you are using? im currently making one of those, but not sure about the washer sizes. i would like to know atleast the proper size id need to remove a 1991 civic wheel bearing..
+S13x Gaming I don't, sorry. I bought the stock and washers/nuts all at Ace Hardware locally. You'll need some larger than the bearing and a couple smaller than the bearing diameter. I bought extras just to have enough.
Where do you recommend getting axles for the base prelude? Had a bad experience with sur track from rock auto. But I also read them local stores one are horrible.
I normally use AutoZone. I've read of people having bad experiences but I'm not one of those people. And I've probably used over 30-40 axles from them.
Not at all. I am a big eBay shopper and AutoZone fan. My track car has eBay wheel bearings, lower ball joints, and outer tie rods. The axles, flywheel, and steering rack (inner tie rods also) all from AutoZone. I was using an eBay brake setup for my first season and those were just some ceramic pads and cross drilled/slotted rotors and had no issues. I trynto save some cash too, but still want reliable parts.
i have a big question i have a prelude that i want to track.. and i cant seem to find Camber kits anywhere and only find adjust ball joints. cant even find UCA and LCA so im wondering if it would be fine to race on oem control arms or would you know any that you would suggest.
+Dominic Phan OEM control arms are perfectly fine, just make sure the bushings are in good shape. It would also be smart to upgrade them to some urethane or hardened rubber if you decide. They make an adjustable upper ball joint which allows you to set camber. I would look into that instead of the whole camber arm if you're having trouble finding them. Take a look at Hardrace, they possibly might make one for your application.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I'm not positive I always pay for the extended warranty on shop equipment at harbor freight.... could always buy a new one wait a little while and return the old one with the new recipet...
51220-SL5-013 JOINT, FR. BALL (LOWER) 51220-S30-N21 JOINT, BALL (LOWER) The reason one didn't fit right was because they're different part numbers. One to connect radius rod and one for control arm.
i got a base 5th gen prelude, is everything pretty much the same except for the double ball joints? and damn i thought you were gonna show the axle replacement
I believe most parts like the axle, bearings and first ball joint. The 2nd ball joint I've been informed through comments was a Honda ordered items only.
I am very late to the party here, no idea if I’ll get a response or if you will remember this but to remove the dust shields that you left off this Lude do you have to have the hub out or can it be done with just the wheel, caliper, and rotor off? Thanks in advance!
If you don't mind damaging it you can get to the screws through the hub and then cut the small area with some wire snips and pull it off. If you want to save it, you need to remove the hub.
Garage Built Hondas Thanks! I think I’ll take the option where I don’t have to take it off, I have a parts car if I ever need to put them back on. Love the videos!
Garage Built Hondas sorry to bother you again but since you have experience with this particular job, I had a question. I had someone replace my passenger upper arm and ball joint as well as as the hub and wheel bearing recently, the ball joint and arm were aftermarket parts and when I got the car back I noticed it was noticeably out of alignment just by the steering wheel and later by the feel when turning (was not before) so I took it to an alignment shop and they told me they couldn’t do it because that side wheel was too far out of camber and that I needed an adjustable ball joint put in. They showed me and you can tell by looking that the wheel is showing negative camber. This came as a surprise as I didn’t need an adjustable before so my question to you is would there have been something they did improperly that would have caused this or could it be that it was the aftermarket parts? I figure that it had to be something they did. Is there any type of adjustment that can be made to the current arm and ball joint to get it back to what it is supposed to be without having to replace the ball joint with an adjustable? Thank you in advance if you can help!
If the parts were correct for the car, I can't see any reason why the camber would be off. They didn't add/remove any adjustable camber arms/parts. I've done countless jobs like this and never had a camber issue unless installing a camber correcting piece.
by any chance, do you know if the front wheel bearing of a ed7(hatch SI) its the same as the Dx/base model? I know by a fact that the rear bearing of the SI its bigger because of the disc brake, but cant find anything about the front ones
im from panama (central america) and its a real pain in the a$$ finding parts here for my ed7, do you know the part number of the front bearing for the 90/91 SI' ?? i've found like 3 different on the web but if you by any chance have it, it will be of tremendous help
I just bought the biggest size I could find because the bearing diameter is pretty large. I would have actually preferred longer if I could've found it.
