In this video I'll show you how to reload .38 special and .357 magnum. The dies in this video are RCBS Carbide. Follow me on Rumble: rumble.com/user/K2Defense #reloading #rcbs #firearms
Takes me back😊 I was about 12 when I learned to load these same shells used by my older brother, U.S. Marine. He had an S&W highway patrolman revolver. Different but similar tools and lube. This was in the early sixties. Thank you
@saltyolbroad2962 - it’s a slow process but you can put the case in the case trimming chuck that’s attached to a drill and use a Brillo pad or steel wool. I’ve known some folks that use their dry tumbler with media to polish up corroded cartridges. I cannot support doing it that way because of liability reasons. Just passing on the information. No chemicals. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@k2defense Thanks for responding! they are just the projectiles; not a complete bullet. I just don't know the nomenclature. They're missing: powder, a jacket, and primer! That's why I figure I should just be able to "wash em off."
@saltyolbroad2962 - you should be able to tumble them without issue. I’d weigh and measure them to make sure you haven’t lost anything. You can always contact the manufacturer and they can give you some insight as well. They’re pretty good about responding to questions like that. 👍🏻
The RCBS .38/.357 carbide die set comes with a spacer ring. This ring goes in between the press and the die. It makes up for the extra length of the .357 cases. You set your dies for .38 and when you load the .357 you insert the spacer ring under the flairing die as well as the seat/crimp die. No adjustments need to be made. This way both .38 and .357 can be loaded without constantly changing the set ups on your die set.
...excellent tutorial...I'll be loading .38/.357 for the first time very soon...I've been reloading off & on since 1974 but have only loaded .45ACP & 9mm, plus.5.56/.223, .76.2 x51 & .45-70...years ago I had separate, dedicated .38 & .357 steel RCBS dis but lost them 20 years ago this month and now have Lee dies that accept both cases...this makes everything clear...thanx
Been loading since 1968. To save time I purchased a separate seating/crimping die. Set one for seating the bullet and the other for crimping. The bullet you were using had a crimping grove in it and will generally be close enough for the AOL. When I started, I didn't have the funds to buy a separate set of dies for 38 Spl and 357Magnum. I had a friend make a round spacer (looked like a washer) that was .125-inch thick, which I placed under the dies when I mounted them in the press, so I only had to make minor changes to reset the dies. Worked great until I could afford as second set. .
Great input! Looking back now, I should have showed how to do the two step method as well. Looks like I’ll have to do another vid! 😂👍🏻 Thank you for your comment!
Just bought everything you have to reload 357 and 38spl I can’t wait to start!! I’ll be following step by step and readying my reloading book to make sure I don’t make any mistakes!
@@k2defense thanks! Yeah I was going to get a Rossi 92 in .357 to compliment my daily carry of a Rock Island M206 .38 snubby, but I ended up getting a Kentucky flintlock instead. So now I am down the blackpowder rabbit hole...but probably next year I will get the Rossi and get on the .38/.357 train. I only purchase one gun a year. I highly suggest the flintlock. No primers or brass needed!
@toshtenstahl - In Line Fabrication! Tell Dan I sent you! Sorry for not getting back to you for so long! 👍🏻 inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system
@TheNapalmFTW - In Line Fabrication! Tell Dan I sent you! Sorry for the delay in communication! 👍🏻 inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system
I acquired a bunch of cast .38 bullets at an auction. They were various weights and styles, including 140 grain RN and 60 grain cylinders. I combined them in a two-bullet load, using load data for the British .38-200. Noticeable recoil and poor accuracy, but might be a good option for a bedroom gun.
@666toysoldier - I ran into similar issues at an auction. The accuracy was so poor I decided to melt them down and made my own. Worked much better for me liking. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
...this is hiw I learned to reload..in an RCBS Rockchucker in 1974 whrn I got back from Germany...I learned completely on my I own and losded 4 mag/spl fot my Smif mod 29..
If you have the RCBS .38/.357 TC 18215 Die set, it comes with a .125" spacer. Set the resize die up for .38 spc. and if you want to resize .357 just pop in the spacer.
Hello Wolf Dogg! Here is the scale that I use in most of my videos. It’s reliable and not too expensive. Hope this help! Thanks for the question! a.co/d/7FHc9ur
When I use plastic tipped bullets I like to do a two step process when bullet seating and crimping. I find the bullets don't always seat at the same dept because of the tip deforming. I probably need a fitting in my dye that conforms more closely with the bullet but 2 steps works.
...I always make dummy round before I seat/crimp the actual loaded round...then I electropencil the data on the case to make future loading of that particular bullet easier the next time...
Michael Gavioli - I would turn the die down in small increments until you get the results you desire. I can’t say a half turn is enough or not enough. Too many variables. Check out this video as well. 👍🏻 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-diLgHfozgbA.html
...when I'm adjusting between powder throws I usually put back at least the first five - to give the powder measure time to settle down - before I weigh the first charge of that weight
@wadewilson524 - I would be hesitant to dry cleaning after priming. The main reason is the possibility of media obstructing the flash hole. I want to make sure the flash hole is wide open so the primer detonation can do its work with the powder. Others may disagree, but this is my preference. 👍
@thecainer64 - InLine Fabrication. I’ll drop the website at the end. Say “hello” to Dan and his crew for me. They make amazing products that last a lifetime. The products are built solid and makes things easier when reloading. 👍🏻 inlinefabrication.com/
Hello frank browning! Thanks for the positive feedback! I bought the wrench years ago when I bought the locking rings. Brownells has them in stock from time-to-time. Check out their website! www.brownells.com/reloading/reloading-dies/replacement-parts-upgrades/die-locking-ring-wrench-prod55250.aspx?DSA&msclkid=bab4e9fce322155d1da28a8a5af75d6b&Products
I had a question while loading and unloading my 38 special with live rounds one shell came out gunpowder went everywhere but the lead wadcutter remain in the wheel. I was able to remove the lead bullet NP, but I never had this happen before, either the lead was not firm on the shell? I did push the rod 2-3 times maybe I moved it to fast? The gun is a S&W, the bullets are Winchester 158 wadcutter +p. I bought the gun new back in 2021 all stainless, never be fired, only dry fire, and snap caps.
Hello! It sounds like, for whatever reason, you didn’t have enough crimp. In your wheel, you may not be able to tell, but there is a ridge. You can notice it with .38s when you try to put .357 round into it. I’m guessing that your crimp was light and when you loaded your firearm, the projectile was caught on this ridge. To fix this, give your ammo just a smidge more crimp. Let me know how it turns out. Hope this helps! Cheers! 👍🏻
@a.r4316 - The typical rule of thumb is that regular primers in normal reloading and magnum primers for compressed loads, slow burning powders, and large case volumes, in order to ensure proper ignition of the powder. Magnum primers also are more reliable in colder weather. You could use magnum primers if that's all you have available but you should drop your powder charge by 10%. I don't take any responsibility for that advice but I have used them in that manner in a pinch. Hope this helps.
Good video. Question though, why don't you use cam-over with carbide? I've been doing it for a little over 30 years now and am just curious and always out to learn new things
@steel440 carbide dies can break if you cam over. There’s a carbide insert that could crack. Typical rule of thumb is to only cam over on steel dies. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@k2defense Ahh, got it! Thank you. Maybe I didn't notice because I never used very much cam over on pistol dies. Now that I know I'll readjust my resizing dies
OCoutdoors - too many variables to give a set number. Pistol brass doesn’t lengthen that much as opposed to bottle neck cases. You’ll probably see a multitude of different opinions. For me, it’s just another step in the reloading process. Hope this helps. 👍🏻
just bought henry 357 rifle. shells cost .70 cents round and I allready have RCBS press from the 70s. I might look into getting dies. Will the dies pay for themselves ?
Hi Cathy! I have the same rifle. Love it! Congratulations on your new purchase! You’ll be able to use .38 and .357 so it’s a win win. If you already have everything else besides the dies, then the answer is yes. If you’re into casting projectiles, even more of a cost savings. I have my own recipe that I like using. I notice with the Big Boy if the cartridges are too hot, it will heat that heavy barrel up quickly and your accuracy will diminish quickly. I run loads that are a bit mild yet still perform very well and don’t heat the barrel as quickly. I’d say, go for it! Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Hi I just got into reloading how much powder for 357 magnum 158 grain bullet in a video i saw 3.6 grains but its quite light load so you reloaded 38 here yes
One habit that I have done when loading a new bullet, I load 2 or 3 dummy rounds at the depth I need and then use those rounds to set the seating stem. I know it waste two or three bullets, but I end up keeping a kinda filing cabinet of these bullets, should I use that particular bullet again. just a weird habit.
@joniasikainen9925 - Here are a few things you can check. 1) Is your COAL the appropriate length? 2) If you are using carbide dies, run the ram (with shell holder in the ram) all the way up to the top. Screw your die down so it just touches the shell holder. Back it up just enough so it doesn't touch. Then resize your brass. 3) Are you crimping or under crimping? Apply the crimp as recommended by the manufacturer. 4) have you trimmed your cases to the appropriate length? Try this and if you are still having issues, let me know and we can dive deeper into things.
This seem like a lot of work for a bullet I can buy new for 60 to 70 cents....What was the cost for the powder and lead? Some one please reply I have been thinking about getting into reloading.
This is the nice thing about reloading. A friend of mine gifted me a ton of lead ingot. I’ll be making projectiles for the rest of my life and I’m pretty sure my grandchildren will have enough as well. The powder I purchased years ago after Sandy Hook knowing that things would get ugly. I’ve got enough of that to last a lifetime as well. It’s all about dollar cost averaging and how much you shoot. If you’re a real conservative you’ll have the ability to plink away for a long time for a reasonable cost (not including equipment). If you’re a casual plinker I’d probably suggest saving the money on upfront equipment costs and powder, primers, etc and buying ammo in bulk and call it good. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@joniasikainen9925 - I do not lube my shells since it is a straight walled case and my dies are carbide. You have your die set incorrectly. Watch this video. Different caliber but same set up. If that doesn't fix it, let me know and we'll work through it together. 👍 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XaTmluSL4Ls.htmlsi=xfs4fRzX1MoiWvQQ
I think you have it set too deep, meaning the die is too low then trying to expand at the same time is causing the case to wrap around the expander plug. Back out the die a bit and lower just the expander plug. Hope this makes sense. 👍🏻
If you wanted 38 special and 357 rounds for use in a 357 gun, is there any reason to use different brass? Meaning, what if you made a bunch of 357 rounds, but simply altered how much powder and nothing else?
Not Affiliated - knowing you can shoot .38 in both calibers and you can only shoot .357 in .357. I’m guessing you are wanting a standard load set for both. I would encourage you to cross reference the load data for both and see if there is an axial point between the two calibers. My first thought is that you would have one undercharged while the other one adequately charged. Hope that made sense. I cannot commit to any specific load data for liability reasons. But I would encourage you to look at the different load data and see if there’s something that could work for both while still maintaining good groups. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@@k2defense I am in the research stage and that does help so thank you! I'm new to firearms and what I want to do is get a .357 revolver and make my own bullets and start them out real weak and make stronger charges as I get better. I don't want to buy a .22 and then a .38 and then a .357 and son on. I want to get really really good and just the one gun and graduate to stronger bullets instead of bigger guns. I only have room in my life for one gun and maybe a backup piece. I am nomadic and virtually homeless besides my parents house that I visit 6 times a year. I figure I could make bullets whenever I am "home". I've avoided firearms my whole life and now I'm making up for lost time, I guess you could say.
I like your vids... thanks. What happens when I put 6.4 grains of hp-38 in a 38 special case? (140 gr bullet) That's the shown load for 357. I mean, I mean... what does case length matter in this case since it is the same caliber? Am I crazy?
@jdodson1297 - if you use that load data for .38 special, in a .38 special, your pistol will need to be able to handle +p loads. It might be possible under those circumstances but you’d need to work up a load using the appropriate load data. As far as the cartridge overall length, you’d need to use the recommended length for the .38 special. I would not recommend deviating from that. Knowing you can shoot .38 special in .357 magnum platforms, you’d still want to use the COL and load data for the .38 special ammo. My biggest concern if you deviate and the ammo is used in a .38 special platform, it could be catastrophic. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@@k2defense yes, shooting in a 357 pistol for sure so no worries there. And yes, COL all to spec. Just wondering what the difference really is between 357 and 38 besides case length and powder load. In theory, couldn't I use a higher powder load that would be equivalent to a 357 but in a 38 special case?
@jdodson1297 - you’ll have pressure differences that could be dangerous. Curious as to why you want to do this? I’m guessing so you can have a standard load for both cartridges? Personally, I have my favorite recipe for each and I just stick to that. On a side note, for liability reasons, I can’t elaborate on wildcat load data. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
I will not use Unique powder. It is very dirty burning power. Instead of using a RCBS Rock chucker press I prefer the Dillion 550 Press. It throws out a fully reloaded round with each pull of the handle
Hi Ben! I’ve heard of others say the same about Unique. Early on in my reloading days I had a squib load. I was plinking with my father-in-law and doing rapid fire with my revolver. After the second shot, the third didn’t go bang. Thinking it was a bad primer I started advancing the wheel to the next round. My father-in-law stopped me right away. He said, “let me check something”. Sure enough he showed me the empty case and the projectile in the barrel. Ever since then, when I charge the case with powder, I check with a flash light to make sure all cases have powder in them. I guess this is my big hang up not purchasing a progressive press. I know it seems silly but it still scares the heck out of me since my ammo is used by family members. I’m probably just a bit neurotic. 😂 I do love the idea of pumping out a ton of rounds in a short period of time with the amount that I shoot. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
@guccivanilla3691 - in short my recommendation is to crimp cannelure and no crimp with no cannelure. Now, there are many variables in between. For me to keep it simple, this is an easy way to remember. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Thebluesrockers- since I reuse my brass, make my own projectiles, the only real cost is primers and powder. So roughly 20-25 cents a round. This is all dependent on availability of both and if I can get them at a good deal or not. Hope this helps!
@@thebluesrockers the price of primers will run you 10-15 cents per round. Powder will depend on how much you spend for a point and how much you use. There’s 7000 grains per pound. If you buy a pound for $35 it will cost you .005 cents per grain. So it all depends on how many grains you use per load. If you’re using lead, that cost could be anything. All my lead I’ve salvaged and melted so the cost per round is basically just the cost of my time to make each projectile. Prices for store bought vary. Let’s say 30 cents per projectile. There are too many variables for me to say it should cost you a specific amount of money per round based of the info I’ve supplied. I hope this helps you and doesn’t make things more confusing. The big take away with reloading is that it save you money over time after the initial investment. You’ll hear varying opinions on this point. But for me and the amount that I shoot, I save money. Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@k2defense So basically if I bought everything like primers, lead round nose, and powder, I'd be out like $0.35 to $0.40 a round to make 158 gr. re-loads. does that sound about right? If I also bought the bullet casings I'd probably be out around $.042--$0.46 a round. Does that sound about Right?
@@thebluesrockers you’ll find that it is variable and pricing fluctuate. That’s why I always dislike giving firm yes or no answers with specific cost questions. Loosely speaking, I think you’re in the right ballpark. 👍🏻
@algoneby - don’t know if you’ve seen this before. Sizing Dies contain a long, tapered, insert that sizes the case down further than standard dies. We do this to create greater case mouth tension and decrease bullet setback. The result is a bullet that has a "coke bottle" or "wasp waisted" shape. This is a perfectly normal result with our dies and will be more or less pronounced depending upon bullet selection, case mouth flare during loading, and the amount of crimp applied to the finished cartridge. (Dillion Precision Reloading 2023) Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
@geonote1789 - my apologies. That has been the overwhelming response of my viewers. I have an editor now that will fix this going forward. Thank you for the comment. Really appreciate it. 👍🏻
I have to wonder why you removed the crimp dye after you seated the bullets. All you need to do is back off the seater plug and turn the crimp die in until you have the desired crimp. The crimp dye was already set at the case mouth.
IMHO... you'll never get an instant accurate adjustment out of your powder drop, if you don't cycle the handle about 5+ times before taking a measurement. Just an observation.
100% agree! I know I don’t show this but I pour the powder in the thrower, cycle it five times (just like you said) weigh, then repeat to double check. Once set, I’ll spot check powder throws randomly to make sure it hasn’t moved up or down. They are not the most accurate for consistent powder throws. If I’m really worried about it, I’ll measure each throw. Great comment! 👍🏻
Tactical BT - the process is identical. The main reason I find it easier to reload rather than 9mm is that the cases are longer and easier for my big fingers to handle. All kidding aside it is a fun caliber to reload and the steps to reloading are identical to the 9mm. One variable that I’ve notice is the the 9mm range brass might have a crimp to remove whereas I’ve never seen a crimp in this caliber. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@@k2defense thank you!!! I mainly shoot 9mm in pistol mainly for cost but if I can learn to reload 38/357 n start on it n it really saves me money guess I’m switching to revolvers lol
The lee hand loader is the simplest way to begin reloading, I'm fairly new at it myself, .....and I chose the 38/357.... Economically wise its very cheep.
@snova8033 - apologize for the hand interference. Going to do things differently going forward so I appreciate your feedback. I hope you were able to gain helpful information from the rest of the video. 👍🏻
If you are not trimming then you dont have to chamfer or deburr cases. And with a hand tool like this and just loosely spinning it you are actually not improving your case, you can create some irregularities with it that will eat into bullet when seated.
So what's going on when you're chugging along with RCBS dies, crimping/seating, everything going fine with .357 magnum loading 158 grain lead core full metal jacket flat nose and suddenly your case gets a wrinkle in it about halfway down it? Cases trimmed to proper length. Crimp set to "shrink" case lip less than .010". Bullet diameter too big? Case wall too thin? Not a consistent issue with brass makers that I can see. These bullets don't have a cannelure to crimp on, just an inconsistent "mark" where one should be.They were "free" for buying XXX hundred cases from a big name online brass supplier.
@silaslongshot941 - before we go down any rabbit hole please watch this and see if we his corrects this issue for you! 👍🏻 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-diLgHfozgbA.htmlsi=8LkYGfQ2E2vXos_2
@@k2defense Had already seen your vid on 9mm taper crimp. Thinking that I may have to switch to taper crimp with these cheap bullets with no distinct cannelure to do roll crimp on, since the rolled in portion of the case really has nowhere to go and may be causing the case to malform under the pressure of trying to roll crimp it
@@silaslongshot941 - I would try to bell/expand the case mouth a bit more to see if that helps. I bell them until I can "snap" in the projectile into the case mouth. Let me know how it goes!
