For me this is the Best Video I've seen on reloading, the settings of each Die and what they do with the brass case and boolit, also the brass preparation and hand priming. I wrote all this down on paper the process , and saved your Video, be doing it this way for all my reloading, Thank You Sir.🇺🇸
I'll be frank. With his intro I thought another loud silly video without much information. Turns out it's one of the best reloading videos I've seen. Calm voice, concise instructions and clear video showing every step with the information presented in detail. Even his voice was calm, unrushed explaining the needed steps. Thank you for your time doing this video.
One comment from someone who has been loading 45Colt for over 40 years, pop the primers out before you tumble clean and save yourself some grief brushing out primer pockets.
I have 30 years reloading experience and depriming before tumbling does not clean the primer pockets. All it leads to is clogged pockets. The media doesn’t move around enough to clean the pockets. Wet tumbling with steel pins will clean the pockets.m
@@Steve5404 I have been wet tumbling for over 10 years now. I gave my shaker tumblers to the kids for them to use until they buy their own wet tumbler setups
You did a great job summarizing the reloading process. One of the best videos I've seen; simple, to the point and very informative, covering the important steps for reloading. As beginner at reloading, this clarified a number of things that I have stumbled on, in my reloading "learning curve". Thank you and well done!
I am surprised RU-vid has not taken this video down. I have done some bullet casting videos on my channel and they got taken down. Keep up the good videos the more reloaders we get the better.
They took down my nine Mike Mike video. Fought back and they allowed me to put it back on but then demonetized it. Fought for months asking them why. The only thing they said was read the community guidelines. I even told them that it is exactly like all my other monetized videos, but they didn’t respond. The only thing that is different is the name so I never use that number of caliber with the metric measurement. 🤷🏻♂️ thanks for the comment. Keep up the fight! 👍🏻
Dude this was seriously helpful, I’m new to hand loading for a revolver and I could not figure out the bullet seating and crimping steps from the RCBS instructions, but seeing it makes so much sense! Thanks!
Back when I was shooting Cowboy Action Shooting, I loaded my cartridges with Black powder. I had the 1858 Remington .44 C&B revolvers with .45 Colt conversion cylinders. I used the load recommended for the 1800's era .45 Colt. Love the smell of the Holy Black.
I just got myself a Colt Walker. While it probably won't happen for a while, I am for sure going to be getting a 45 Colt conversion cylinder for it. Mostly on account of caps being near impossible to find, while primers are pretty easy to source nowadays. This video is definitely something I will come back to once I get to reloading. Clear, concise, easy to follow instructions, all in all a very well put together tutorial.
Great video! If you are talking about powder coating the already lubed bullets, that can be a lot of work. I've seen the question come up from time to time and the 1st suggestion is to sell the lubed bullets and cast or buy some un-lubed. There is also the suggestion to boil the bullets so that the lube melts and comes off then clean the bullets with acetone or something similar. If you are asking about powder coating bullets from scratch, Eastwood powders are great and shake and bake is easy. I use a wire mesh basket and live with a few pc boogers but some set the bullets up on their bases. Humidity is the key, try to shake the bullets in as dry a place as you can. Good luck.
@hasanibrahimovic - Thanks for the positive feedback! We're taking a small break from filming to move our studio to provide better quality videos. Much more to come!
This video was super educational! I will definitely look into this more as I am waiting for the authorities to process the license for my Uberti Remington 1875 .45 colt! :D (Btw, the sound of your speech was very low compared to the intro/outro sounds so you might wanna double check that next time rendering!)
If you're going to powder coat you're going want bullets with no lube after mine are coated I put them in a cheap toaster oven for about twenty minutes Eastwood's powder is really good the light blue works great
@@irishshamrock6162 unfortunately... I shoot 45 colt alot the cheapestes I've seen for cowboy loads is about 93 to 97 cent a round if you can find it. Normally I pay between a buck and a buck 50 a round.... this country has really takin a turn. But were all in it together brotha, god bless and stay safe out there man.
Good video, well presented and clear without repetition thank you. My only query is why waste time chamfering and deburring the cases when they are to be belled anyway?
Hello Petra Rose, Some people would argue that you don’t need to chamfer or deburr unless you trim the case. I guess I should have pointed that out in the video. I had some brass that had a burr on the inside of the case mouth that cause the projectile to catch when reloading and shearing it. Just something that’s stuck with me over the years. Appreciate your comment/question.
45colt will be 9th cart starting today! Getting a Ruger blackhawk new model. As for powdercoating, check out my vids on it. I preheat boolits in toaster over at 150F for 5 min, low humidity is key. I take a tablespoon of powder for roughly 3lbs of casts, use a #5 or 7 plastic container and hand tumble spin vigorously for 30seconds to build static then 30seconds more slow hand tumble. Pour out into a tray. Wear a tight fitting nitrile glove and carefully pick them up giving a light twist in fingertips to reassure even coating. I stack on parchment paper thats resting over 2-3 layers of silicone baking mats to keep upright when transferring to oven and to distribute even heat. I bake usually for 19min at 400F. Let air cool, dont quench them! Make sure none are touching before you bake and until cool to touch. I do a dozen different colors but want to coat my 45colts clear gloss since its the strongest powder Ive found and think it deserves the bare lead look. Candy teal from the powdercoat store or eastwood jet black look great on brass. If youre a lead farmer like myself, bright colors like neon green will help you see them in the dirt quick to retrieve your alloy lead hogs. Unless youre shooting steel and throwing it away basically lol
The process looks simple and safe with care and patience. Going to start looking for suggested equipment to buy. Curious. Are the gloves for protection or an aid?
Shaylok - thanks for the comment! I use gloves for a couple of reasons in the videos. One to help with the contrast (visualization) of the items I’m working on and secondly to keep my hands clean so if I put anything into my mouth I don’t need to wash my hands. I just take the gloves off and do what I need to do then put them on again. Trying to avoid lead poisoning. 👍🏻
Great video. Have one question. I know this video went up a year ago so might not get answered. If the powder does not fill the case one the bullet is seated so you need to have some fill? I've heard of issues with powder if it ends up laying down in the case because it is not.full behind the bullet. Thanks. Again great video.
@seanhall957 - thanks for submitting your question! I try to answer all questions that come in. You don’t need to “fill” your case with powder to avoid hallow space. Matter of fact depending on the burn rate of the powder, it may be necessary. As far as the projectile resting on anything, it’s not needed. Once you bell your case that projectile will fit in there like a glove. Hope this helps! Keep those questions coming! Cheers! 👍🏻
I'm a little late getting here, but I just aquired my. 45 Colt revolver, and I'm curious. I really enjoyed your video, and I watched a couple of others and one person seated and crimped in two separate steps. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to doing it thi way, or is it more personal preference?
Personal preference. I have zero issues doing both at the same time. Others struggle with it and choose to do them in two separate steps. Those that don’t struggle, just prefer to do it in two separate steps. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@k2defense it's very helpful. I figured that it was a matter of preference rather than some right or wrong, black or white scenario. Thanks for your perspective 👍
Nice explanation ! The question I have, the powder is a small amount in a 40 grains brass. It will float around. What do you do to keep it near the primer. I have problems with unburned powder and stuck bullets.,
@billnopoles1934 - glad you found this video helpful! I’m pretty sure I know what’s going on. First, let me ask you a few questions. What type of projectiles and weight are you using, powder, load data, primers, how much crimp do you use, do you ream the flash hole and do you clean the primer pocket? Knowing that using no powder will cause a squib load because the primer has a lot of force alone, you don’t need much powder to make the projectile exit the barrel. So there’s something else going on here. We’ll figure it out! 👍🏻
@@k2defense thanks for the reply! I'm using the Lee hand loader, also for crimping. Using brand new brass, Hornady H110, and UNIX GINEX primers. According to the web page 25gr is recommended. I used 22gr for startup. Crimping? I sat the bullet until it's visually ok. It might be not enough. I am disappointed of the Lee loader. in my opinion it is way too tight. I have to use a 5pound hammer for setting (and crimping) the bullet. BTW, black power loads work very well. With the second batch (5) I put in toilet paper for to fill the empty space. One of 5 shot successfully.
@@billnopoles1934 - It sounds like you need to bell/expand your case mouth a bit more to get better fitment of the projectile. You might also consider adding a bit more crimp after seating. If your having issues with powder not being completely burned, the easiest fix is applying more crimp. Hope this helps!
For 50 + years, I've been decapping, resizing my brass and then trimming as required BEFORE cleaning. I've yet to see others do this...wonder why? After firing, the cases are just tarnished but not dirty or contaminated. I've always had an excellent result. The tumbler cleans any resizing lube off this way including to some degree the primer pockets. Any comments?
@hugostiglitz2388 - range brass I always clean before putting through my dies. Many times there’s dirt stuck to the shell, in the shell, etc. I don’t want that going into my die and scratching it. If I’m reloading my reloads or purchased ammo, they are relatively clean already. When I make these entry level videos, I don’t go into this detail. Looking back now, I probably should have. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
I have always deprimed, sized, trimmed, belled, and deburred, my cases before dry tumbling. When it comes out of the tumbler, it is polished and ready to load without having to work the brass any further. For range brass, I run it through a sonic cleaner first before processing to remove all the grime before running it up into the die. That's worked well for me the past thirty years or so. I handload many different caliber rifle and pistol cartridges for my collection of firearms. Also, using a rotary media separator minimizes the hassle of cob or shell media clogged primer pockets.
@jdodson1297 - if I understand your question, you’re wondering which grain projectile is best for target vs hunting etc. most of the .45 that I shoot is bullet cast material. I don’t do any hunting with the .45 but more target shooting. As a beginner I’d suggest reading your reloading manual, see what is available for you to reload, and work up a few different type of reloads to see what you like and what works for you. 👍🏻
Hello @Dailyfreedomfighter7788! You should be able to use them multiple times. Before you do, you’ll need to make sure to visually check your cases. I also measure my cases to make sure they don’t get too thin to reuse. No one can guarantee how many times you can reuse cases as there are several variables that shorten their life. Hope this helps!
As long as you use a quality brass to start with and do not make your loads up to max pressures you could possibly reload the brass 15 or more times, especially if you use the bottom end of the load data. But as K2 Defense stated always check your brass for cracks.
@lfeco - check out InLine Fabrication. (@inlinefabrication) inlinefabrication.com/ the arm is used for additional trays. Dan and his crew make quality add ons that make reloading easier and more comfortable. Let me know if you have any questions! 👍🏻
@lfeco - no worries! There are so many things I’m still learning. Being a fellow previous North Dakotan, make sure to venture online as supplies at Scheels is not all extensive. 😂👍🏻
Powder coating is too easy. Don't get cheap Harbor Freight powder. I do Eastwood. One container lasts forever. Put into small plastic container with #5 recycle triangle symbol. Shake for a minute or two until powder coat sticks to bullet with static. Sometimes larger bullets need a little convincing, so I warm them before hand, but if you do it too much, it creates a glob. Then set them out on a tray with some type of anti stick cover. Anti-stick aluminum foil works, but still have some that stick and costs money every time or two, so I use silicon sheets. Easy off and they last forever. Then I put them in a garage sale toaster over at 400 degrees for about 15 minutes. Take 'em out, let 'em cool. After cooled down, take a sacrificial one and smash the crap out of it with a hammer to test. Powder coating should stay bonded to lead and not flake off. Then run them through the sizer and you're done. It's that easy.
Don't lube them before hand, they gotta be clean. Powder coating is it's own lube. I have pushed gas checked and powder coated .223 over 2400 fps. That coating really holds that lead together.
@@jodynickerson3545 First, it's practical lube. Wax method works, but for me it's messy when handling the bullets. PC can be a little messy, but once they've gone through the oven, there's no mess. Second, you can push the bullet harder/faster. I ran Alox .223 bullet through an AR. It can cause leading, but without gas check it blew apart. With gas checked it was grossly inaccurate. With PC and gas check, I was able to push it to 2400 FPS with about a 2-2.5" at 75 yards. Not super accurate, but enough for practice and is screaming fast for lead. I might have pushed it faster, but was just experimenting and seeing speed not developing for accuracy. I have dug 9mm PC bullets out of a sand pile that I shot into and they were still coated. No leading from either of them. For me, the little extra time is well worth it.
I wear gloves for a few reasons. My hands do sweat while wearing gloves but not that bad. I don’t want oil from my hands getting on the shells. I dip when I reload. I don’t want to use a dirty hands to feed my bad habits. I don’t want to break my tempo by running into the house to wash my hands. And lastly, the reloading components seem to contrast better with black gloves than my hands. That’s the “behind the scenes” reasons I wear gloves. 👍🏻
